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Wire loop used by some modellers on locos to replace tension lock


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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Nigel

 

Video is helpful.

 

To add to the video I use 0.8mm brass rodding and an 0.8 mm drill which has proved very effective. The video is very precise in stating the length of rodding to use; personally I find that a 40mm strip of wire bent twice by eye at one third intervals creates a hoop which can be fitted to the buffer beam. On my Bachmann 37's I differ to the video and use the factory drilled air brake pipe hole on one side and drill a second hole at the same level to the left hand side of the buffer beam. The critical point that you need to ensure to achieve an effective replacement is the height of the bar over which wagon and coach tension locks will have to fall to create a coupling. You will probably find that the 'legs' as they are described in the video need to be bent downwards to get the right height. Trial and error is required to work this out for yourself so don't glue until you have tested extensively. Fortunately the 0.8 mm rod in a 0.8 hole is a tight fit which allows the coupling to function for test purposes. 

 

See the attached photos for examples of my 37's. My couplings require gluing ( I use expoxy resin, not super glue) and painting which will done once final testing completed.  It is not as difficult as you might this although I found it daunting finding the confidence to drill the first hole in my prized 37's!

 

Good luck

 

Rob

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One enhancement you might consider is to chemically blacken the brass wire before bending and fitting, which will make it far less visible and gives a finish that is much more durable than painting afterwards.

 

I've found that the Birchwood Casey products work well, but before applying the fluid with a cotton bud you should draw the wire a few times between some fine emery or wet and dry held in your fingers. This will clean the wire - don't touch it afterwards - and allow the fluid to be at its most effective. The final result isn't actually a black wire, but one with a dark gray/ brown patina that the eye finds far less obvious set against the underparts of a loco.

 

John.

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  • RMweb Gold

For us one of the main reasons for going down this road is that we want to add superdetailing - vac, steam head, AB hoses - at both ends of the loco.

 

Were you planning to add them? seems a shame not to, adds to the prototypical appearance no doubt

 

Easiest locos to do are hydraulics with their deep buffer beam skirts and 1co-co1s with the loop on the bogie

 

Kind regards

 

Phil

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  • RMweb Gold

The original post sought guidance on replacing tension locks which appears to have been well covered by responses and attached links.

 

I totally agree with Phil's comment that buffer beam detailing is the natural conclusion to removing tension locks. The attached 2 pictures show 2 of my fleet in various stages of detailing. I am using brass rod because I not convinced at the strength of the manufacturers detail parts. Therefore I am trying out different methods using a combination of brass rod (0.8mm and 0.5mm ) and manufactured parts in an attempt to achieve the same effect in a robust manner.

 

Phil, I like the notion of pre-colouring the brass; can you expand on the Birchwood Casey product to buy?  

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  • RMweb Gold

The original post sought guidance on replacing tension locks which appears to have been well covered by responses and attached links.

 

I totally agree with Phil's comment that buffer beam detailing is the natural conclusion to removing tension locks. The attached 2 pictures show 2 of my fleet in various stages of detailing. I am using brass rod because I not convinced at the strength of the manufacturers detail parts. Therefore I am trying out different methods using a combination of brass rod (0.8mm and 0.5mm ) and manufactured parts in an attempt to achieve the same effect in a robust manner.

 

Phil, I like the notion of pre-colouring the brass; can you expand on the Birchwood Casey product to buy?

Cheers Phil ( theres a lot of us!) - have you looked at guitar strings for vac pipes - the winding looks good. Also agree with your brass fittings although we have found the manufacturers offerings have got better over the years and are pretty robust - particularly as the wire coupling loop affords them some protection from knocks.

 

Brass wire also good where manufacturer's offerings are incorrect eg Bacchy class 25 MU lead - just cut off fittings at end of supplied cable, drill them 0.5mm and refit the right way round with 0.45mm handrail wire.

 

Phil

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Following on from post #4, I'm not a Phil ( "d'you mind if we call you Bruce" springs to mind for those old enough to remember!).

 

Birchwood Casey stuff for blackening was available from Eileens Emporium and may still be. Also possibly Hobby Holidays, both of theses do lots of shows.

 

John.

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  • RMweb Gold

Following on from post #4, I'm not a Phil ( "d'you mind if we call you Bruce" springs to mind for those old enough to remember!).

 

Birchwood Casey stuff for blackening was available from Eileens Emporium and may still be. Also possibly Hobby Holidays, both of theses do lots of shows.

 

John.

G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce!

 

That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother too

 

Heres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47s

 

post-7138-0-80979700-1439722890_thumb.jpg

 

Turned around the MU cable on 5230

 

post-7138-0-52825100-1439722697.jpg

 

And a veritable horde of Peaks

 

post-7138-0-54218900-1439722734.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce!That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother tooHeres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47sattachicon.gifWeathered locos 2.jpgTurned around the MU cable on 5230attachicon.gif5230 MU cable.jpgAnd a veritable horde of Peaksattachicon.gifBlue peaks 2.jpgCheersPhil

 

Shouldn't that be a 'range' of Peaks

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G'day Bruce - meet new Bruce!

 

That's useful gen - we paint them dirty black but it does rub off after a while, chemical blackening should be better and leave them smoother too

 

Heres how we have done Baby deltic, 37s and 47s

 

attachicon.gifWeathered locos 2.jpg

 

Turned around the MU cable on 5230

 

attachicon.gif5230 MU cable.jpg

 

And a veritable horde of Peaks

 

attachicon.gifBlue peaks 2.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Phil

Phil,

how do you go on with the metal chassis of the Dapol class 22

& the Heljan falcon.

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This looks interesting.

 

Can anyone offer photos of this stuff in use please?

 

Dave

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Hi, thank again with all the help, with detailing in mind I've just bought some of this covered beading elastic for the pipe work, it has the right movement and look for it, also for £2.99 you get 25mtrs.

 

Nigel  :imsohappy:

Great idea - that falls into the 'why have I never thought of that before' category!  

Could work as low-level vac and steam pipes between permanently-coupled coaches (eg SR sets), push-pulls etc, if the diameter is about right. Idea filed in 'pending' for this winter's projects.

Mike

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Great idea - that falls into the 'why have I never thought of that before' category!  

Could work as low-level vac and steam pipes between permanently-coupled coaches (eg SR sets), push-pulls etc, if the diameter is about right. Idea filed in 'pending' for this winter's projects.

Mike

Hi, if you want to go one step further attach 1mm x 1mm magnets so you can uncouple the steam pipes.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-tiny-Neodymium-disc-rod-magnets-1mm-dia-x-1mm-N35-craft-fridge-diy-magic-/181657770008?hash=item2a4ba59818

 

Nigel

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