Making a start in 7mm for the first time : Now Dominion Dock Goods - Layout update

[Robin Gristwood]

After contemplating quite a lot of different plans for the space I have available, I’ve come up with this sketch.

 

 

The idea is that this former station remains open as goods only mainly to serve the branch to the docks as well as the numerous warehouses along the route.

The era will be early/mid 1960’s and I’m tempted to base the layout in Liverpool with all the docks traffic and all those lovely Mersey Docks 7 harbour Board steam locos. I have a green 02 diesel which fits the bill as well.

 

I’ve started to use Templot, but it is a steep learning curve, but I know I must persevere with it as I want to build turnouts to 31.5mm gauge, and as you can see nearly all the turnouts are curved in some way due to the necessity of having to curve the plan to make best use of the space I have.

 

I need to squeeze up some of the sidings so that it reduces the baseboard width a bit more.

I didn’t want to go over 33”, but my Templot skills haven’t quite mastered how best to do this.

I need to be able to tidy up the sleepering (if there is such a word!) arrangements on the turnouts also, so that I can print off and start to build them now I have received my lovely 31.5mm gauges from Debs.

I’ve noticed too that I will have to change some of the sleepering shown by Templot, as the maximum length sleeper included in C&L turnout kits is 13 ft, but how do I make crossovers using these plastic turnout timbers, which I presume need longer timbers to straddle the crossing?

 

My previous HO layouts have been quite high (about 50 inches) but I will lower this one to around 44”.

This will allow me (and others) to reach across the necessarily wide boards better and modelling at almost shoulder height does make my arms ache..!

 

The dismantling of my previous layout is progressing. It has allowed me to mock up the proposed height/width to make sure I can reach across 33” at 44” rail height.

 

 

As you can see I intend to use arches along the edge of the goods yard to provide some height difference which breaks up the otherwise flat aspect of a layout.

I might make this part removable to allow for easier access for maintenance.

 

 

The plan isn’t “set in stone” yet, and as I get more fun from shunting wagons around than running passenger coaches in and out, I was thinking about reversing the engine release crossover at the end of the platform.

In which case trains could arrive on the run-round loop rather than the platform, and the train detached from the loco by a pilot engine, and shunted away releasing the train loco.

 

This arrangement would allow the main platform to be used for goods loading/unloading which would drastically increase the wagon capacity/shunting opportunities of the plan.

The other benefit, even if the platform track was not used for loading/unloading, is that it would allow me to model a low relief warehouse against the wall, which will again increase the number of wagon destinations.

For me, the more possibilities of where a wagon can go once its arrived the better.

Edited February 23, 2016 by Robin Gristwood

[Robin Gristwood]

I thought it was about time I updated this with a post on the progress made on my layout.
I still haven’t finalised the plan but I have started to build things for the layout.

I went to the Reading GOGG trade show in December and marvelled at all the lovely ‘goodies’ available. It was hard to resist, I felt like a kid in a candy store. I did buy a Connoisseur Brass GWR Loriot starter kit as I have never built a brass kit before and I thought I had better have a go,

I started it after Christmas and I’m pleased with the result. It was a pleasure to put together and my soldering skills have developed significantly now too.

 

 

Its now primed with Halfords acid etch ready for painting

 

 

I've also grasped the nettle of making up the C&L turnout kit in a bag I bought at Warley.

I waited until I got the 31.5mm gauges from Debs before starting on this.

 

I printed off a Templot A5 drawing to build as its slightly different to the C&L drawing that comes with the turnout.

 

I used the excellent posts on the old RMWeb by Dikitriki http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=687924#p687924 to guide me during the construction. All of the tips provided proved to be invaluable.

 

 

Its almost finished. The only thing I need to do is to decide what method I will use to have a functional stretcher bar doesn't detract from the lovely look of the rest of the trackwork.

 

This is the easy one to build though, all the rest will need to be curved points which I need to get my head around.

[81A Oldoak]

Excellent work Robin. The key to success every time for me is not to rush.

[3 link]

Hi Robin,

 

I am not sure about the plastic C&L sleepers but I use their wooden sleepers and you can buy them in bundles and then cut them to what even length you require.

 

Also once you feel confident with track building it works out a lot cheaper to file your own vee's and switch blades, you can use jigs to do the vee's and blades from the S7 stores. These jigs are compatable for f/scale and 31.5mm.

 

The layout I am building is in 31.5mm and is being built on a continuous curve, being on a curve means the turnouts are longer than the straight turnouts, so much so a couple of the points are nearly 3' long!

 

Anyway keep up the good work,

 

Martyn.

[Simond]

I'd rephrase that.

 

If I rush, the likelihood of failure is much, much higher.

 

The Loriot is great, and you've got your head round track work! What's next?

 

Best

Simon

[Robin Gristwood]

The Loriot is great, and you've got your head round track work! What's next?

 

 

 

Once I finalise the track plan I have a DJH 03 0-6-0 Diesel shunter to build. That will be my first attempt at building a driven chassis in O Gauge, another milestone to conquer though....?

 

Just out of interest can anyone tell me were the 03 shunters called '03' from the start or did they have some other designation before the days of TOPS?

[John R Smith]

Once I finalise the track plan I have a DJH 03 0-6-0 Diesel shunter to build. That will be my first attempt at building a driven chassis in O Gauge, another milestone to conquer though....?

 

Just out of interest can anyone tell me were the 03 shunters called '03' from the start or did they have some other designation before the days of TOPS?

 

The TOPS classifications came in during the early 1970s. When built these 204hp shunters were BR Class DJ15, later D2/1, D2/1A, D2/2, then TOPS Class 03 (info from Brian Haresnapes book, British rail Fleet Survey, 7, Diesel Shunters, p56).

 

John

Edited February 19, 2016 by John R Smith

[chaz]

Once I finalise the track plan I have a DJH 03 0-6-0 Diesel shunter to build. That will be my first attempt at building a driven chassis in O Gauge, another milestone to conquer though....?

 

Just out of interest can anyone tell me were the 03 shunters called '03' from the start or did they have some other designation before the days of TOPS?

 

The TOPS classifications came in during the early 1970s. When built these 204hp shunters were BR Class DJ15, later D2/1, D2/1A, D2/2, then TOPS Class 03 (info from Brian Haresnapes book, British rail Fleet Survey, 7, Diesel Shunters, p56).

 

John

 

The only thing I would add to that, John, is that DJ15 was a code applied on the E and NE regions - J being the LNER code for an 0-6-0 - the D is obvious. Colloquially they were lumped together with the O4s as Drewry shunters.

[Robin Gristwood]

Just posting this to see if forum broken again, as all recent postings seem to have disappeared

[Robin Gristwood]

Well I thought lets have a go at my DJH 03 starter kit - "ideal for the novice" it says.

 

I opened up the box and took my first proper look at the instructions.

 

The kit may be ideal for the novice but the instructions don't exactly give any help in showing what order things should be done.

 

Only problem is they aren't really instructions, but more a case here's one I did earlier.

 

Eek.. where do I start?

[Simond]

Well, I've never built one of those, but if you post some photos of the bits that came with the instructions, I'm betting there'll be Lenny of useful advice to follow!

 

I'm assuming that's not diagram 1....

 

BTW Iain Rice did an excellent book on loco chassis construction in 4mm. 7mm is just the same but bigger

 

Best

Simon

[Robin Gristwood]

I'm assuming that's not diagram 1....

 

 

 

Yes, I'm sorry to say that is the first page after the pages showing all the parts included in the kit..!

 

Here are the pages showing the kit contents...

 

 

 

...but there is no indication of what order things should be done?

[Simond]

Robin

 

that looks good.  I have no idea why my spell checker changed "plenty" to "Lenny" but never mind.

 

Firstly, it might be wise to see if there is a page or two of instructions missing.  Give DJH a call?  If not, try to get that book - ISBN 1 874103 10 0

 

Secondly, start with the frames.  E1.  They fold up it appears, so the bars joining them should be left attached.  There should be half-etched fold lines, which would normally (but not always!) be on the inside of the bend.  This should be relatively easy. You'll want to de-burr them all round.  Don't, at this stage, deburr the four pairs of big holes for the axle bearings.

 

I'm guessing that the motor mounting plate E12 gets trapped between then with its tags in matching slots, and the two buffer beam braces E27 & 38 complete the basic assembly,  but I can't read the numbers on the photo page to be sure.

 

You might want to try this as a "dry" assembly before going much further.  It should all sort of "click together" and sit there looking very happy. 

 

In parallel, clean, de-flash, if necessary de-rust your wheels (I assume Slaters) and cranks, and degrease them thoroughly, and apply your chosen metal-black (with appropriate precautions 'cos it's nasty stuff), polish, give the steel a wipe with a cotton bud oiled with some light mineral oil.  I always tap my wheels 10BA and araldite a 10BA machine screw in from the rear to make my crankpins. I then use the Slater's bushes, tapped 10BA as the bearing.  Other approaches are possible.  You can also araldite on your balance weights, E40 & 42, and paint them.  Refer to the drawings for locations.

 

At this point, you need to clean and de-burr your coupling rods.  It looks like you have a selection, I guess they are intended to be laminated.  I hope there are some instructions for that.  If not, you'll have to work out which way they go, and then get a bit of wood, say 2" x 1" x 6" or so long, and place your base rod on it.  Carefully drill holes in the wood, to match the crankpin holes in the rod.  You can now use cocktail sticks to make pins to locate the laminations together.  This will hold them all aligned during soldering, but...

 

I'd suggest that you get to this stage and then photograph everything and post it before actually applying any solder.

 

You're going to need a fairly chunky soldering iron for the frames, or an RSU or a little gas torch.  I do not recommend the latter if you are inexperienced.  You might want to enlist the aid of a local club member or suitably-armed pal to help with the soldering.  If you go with my method of crankpin assembly, you will need a 10BA first and third tap (well, a first, anyway) and a means to hold it (tap wrench, pin drill, or a small drill chuck not attached to a drill!).  Youre also going to need some solder & flux, of course.

 

enjoy!

Simon

[bynackmor]

Just found this blog and I too have been thinking ( over 2 years now) about making the move up to 0 gauge, I like how you have gone about this and wish you good luck.

[John Boy]

Hi Robin,

 

I have one of these kits to build, but not for 12 weeks or so, as other kits are before it on the list.

 

The ' instructions sheets' with my kit are 14 sheets, none of which is a blow by blow account of how to build it. I agree with you that

as a starter kit they are inadequate.

 

However, Darren Sherwood-Jones wrote 2 articles in the Model Rail magazine (issue 151, and 152) covering the building of this kit. Even an experienced

modeller like him made some errors in construction, some admitted, some not. 

 

PM me if you would like a copy of these 2 articles, you will find them very useful.

 

John

 

PS

 

Did you manage to fit DCC sound to your Heljan Class 20?

Edited February 24, 2016 by John Boy

[Robin Gristwood]

John,

 

My instructions are made up of 14 double sided sheets also. So at least I know I'm not missing anything.

 

I have sent you a PM.

[John R Smith]

Robin

 

It's terrific, isn't it. DJH actually advertise this as a beginner's kit, and I quote from their website -

 

"The kit has been designed to go together easy and would be ideal for the novice modeller. Requires paint and transfers to complete."

 

And it doesn't come with any instructions, at least not anything that you or I would recognise as such. Just before Christmas I was thinking of buying one of these, thank heaven I didn't . . .

 

John

[Simond]

don't worry, we'll get there, by committee!

 

best

Simon

[0_gauge_novice]

Hi Robin,

 

have a look at this Flickr photo sequence of the build by Brian Daniels.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83307-djh-class-03-starter-kit/?p=1376815

 

Good Luck

Andreas

[Robin Gristwood]

don't worry, we'll get there, by committee!

 

 

I'm sure this horse wont end up as a camel being built by a committee, but more like a thoroughbred I hope?

 

Progress has been made thanks to all your suggestions and links, both here and by PM.

 

I've now got to the stage Simon suggested of slotting it all together and fitting wheels.

 

 

I was thrilled to see that it not only pushes along but carries on running for a while afterwards too with no sign of binding, but that was just with the single layer of rods as I haven't yet plucked up the courage to laminate the coupling rods together, I have made the jig to do so with the suggested cocktail sticks.

 

 

There are 2 rods each side for the wheels and another 2 for the crankshaft link, plus one that links them all (five in total on each side).

I do have a resistance soldering unit now and 188C solder paste. Would that be the best way to do the laminating or perhaps tin each rod separately with 145C and use lots of flux?

Any suggestions on best voltage RSU output (London Road model)to use as well? I don't want to "cook" them too much

[Simond]

Robin

 

Go to the top of the class!

 

Brilliant job. I reckon you should solder that chassis together, if it all runs and doesn't wobble when placed on a flat surface.

 

If you're confident with the RSU, ypu could certainly use that for the rods. If not, just go for it with a big iron and lots of flux.

 

I don't think you need much help....

 

Best

Simon

[81A Oldoak]

Robin

 

It's terrific, isn't it. DJH actually advertise this as a beginner's kit, and I quote from their website -

 

"The kit has been designed to go together easy and would be ideal for the novice modeller. Requires paint and transfers to complete."

 

And it doesn't come with any instructions, at least not anything that you or I would recognise as such. Just before Christmas I was thinking of buying one of these, thank heaven I didn't . . .

 

John

And of course wasp stripes are kids' stuff.

[3 link]

Hmmm, I would go easy with the RSU and if you do use it start off with the lowest setting as those rods look a bit on the thin side.

 

Martyn.

[Robin Gristwood]

I grasped the nettle and soldered the rod etches together using the RSU, the cocktail stick jig and Carrs Solder Paint.

I needed to think how to make a circuit for the etches when threaded on the sticks for the RSU to work.

 

Lightbulb moment..!

 

I wrapped the wood block with aluminium foil and sat that on my brass return plate.

 

After a successful trial run with some scrap, I went ahead and soldered the rods together.

 

 

Result.. one set of coupling rods.

They just needed a little cleaning with the fibreglass brush and a modicum of work with a tapered broach to clean the holes slightly.

Edited February 27, 2016 by Robin Gristwood

[Simond]

Robin,

 

I just gave you a "craftsmanship/clever" rating which is certainly valid, however when you can confirm that the chassis still rolls sweetly, it will be well merited!!!

 

best

Simon