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1951 Pullman Scratchbuild in 1/32


hendie
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As always a great model. Just a minor point................ sorry. In your photo of the actual carriage the buffers have a flat top are you going to change yours to match.

 

Keith

I'm getting my coat............ 

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5 hours ago, KeithHC said:

In your photo of the actual carriage the buffers have a flat top are you going to change yours to match.

 

On 20/06/2020 at 23:52, hendie said:

 

P6200009.jpg

Looks like the right shape to me, I can see a flat top on them. Superb as ever. More patience and attention to detail than I could manage.

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On 20/06/2020 at 22:41, Hilux5972 said:

Looking fantastic. Great to see the end in sight. 

 

thanks Hilux - it's a great feeling after all this time

 

On 21/06/2020 at 21:33, jrg1 said:

Extraordinary modelling-what are you going to build to haul it?

 

haha!   nothing!  When this is finished I shall have accomplished what I set out to  do so will be taking a nice long break from train modeling.

 

On 22/06/2020 at 03:45, KeithHC said:

As always a great model. Just a minor point................ sorry. In your photo of the actual carriage the buffers have a flat top are you going to change yours to match.

 

Keith

I'm getting my coat............ 

 

ehrrrr.... see simonmcp'spost below

 

On 22/06/2020 at 09:11, simonmcp said:

 

Looks like the right shape to me, I can see a flat top on them. Superb as ever. More patience and attention to detail than I could manage.

 

Thanks!..  yes I did include the flat top on the buffers.  I may have rounded the edge between the flat and the radius a bit too much so  it's not as noticeable as on the 1:1, but it's there.

 

 

After hitting this hard over the last few weeks I think  I've hit a slight burn out period.  I'm giving myself a few days off before heading down to  tackle the remaining jobs.

No fear - it will be completed

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Love the chairs.

 

This must be the 'in' thing – there was article describing how to use the same technique to produce patterned shirts in the July Model Railroader.

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Your attention to detail and outstanding craftsmanship knows no bounds. A stunning example of how to make a museum quality model model from materials that appear to be just lying around.......;)

 

The upholstery on the chairs alone would finish off most of us.....:D

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Thanks Gordon. 

 

3 hours ago, gordon s said:

from materials that appear to be just lying around

 

that's part of the fun of scratchbuilding - finding stuff that you can repurpose.  I always get a kick out of finding a use for some obscure discarded item.

For instance, the dome on my 1/6 scale Dalek was made from the domed lid of a milkshake - it was the perfect radius.

 

PB240005.JPG&key=f7b0ad2511f67d1a2a5ead0

 

 

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58 minutes ago, hendie said:

Thanks Gordon. 

 

 

that's part of the fun of scratchbuilding - finding stuff that you can repurpose.  I always get a kick out of finding a use for some obscure discarded item.

For instance, the dome on my 1/6 scale Dalek was made from the domed lid of a milkshake - it was the perfect radius.

 

PB240005.JPG&key=f7b0ad2511f67d1a2a5ead0

 

 

 

Whereabouts in the Pullman train did that run?

 

Mike.

 

 

 

 

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Hendie,

 

As ever, brilliant work. Actually, from a purely selfish point of view, I don't want you to finish this project because I really enjoy reading about how you approach the various challenges. :)

 

Ian.

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On 13/07/2020 at 02:24, Hilux5972 said:

Really starting to look the part now. Great job. 

 

Thanks Hilux

 

On 13/07/2020 at 12:15, Ian Major said:

Hendie,

 

As ever, brilliant work. Actually, from a purely selfish point of view, I don't want you to finish this project because I really enjoy reading about how you approach the various challenges. :)

 

Ian.

 

Thanks Ian.  There is a tinge of sadness as this approaches the end of the platform, I have to admit.  Glad to have had you along for the ride though!

 

 

During lunch times this week, I managed to nip downstairs and add the remaining tables and chairs. It was a nice feeling seeing it all come together.  The very last items were the 4 brass lamps in the dinette, which was a bit of an anti-climax really. (and I forgot to take a photo of that)

Take your seats ladies and gentlemen...

 

P7140005.jpg

 

View from one end of the dining area

 

P7140002.jpg

 

Then from the other.  I'd hate to be the person sitting in that seat next to the doorway at the end - you'd have to balance your plate on your knee

 

P7140006.jpg

 

It took me a long time to source that material for the mirrors, but I'm glad I persevered with the search. I think the mirrors really add another dimension and a little touch of reality to the overall scene

A quick view from outside 

 

P7140008.jpg

 

and that's about it folks.  Pretty boring stuff really.

 

All that's left is to stick the carlines on top and it's done.  I know I still have the additional roof to make but I'm treating that as a separate project.  Parts are being printed as I type and I hope to be able to get started on that project later today.

Just a few finishing touches and a final clean up is all that remains.  Getting rid of all the dust and cobwebs is going to take some serious effort - I think I'll wait until the display case arrives otherwise more dust will just accumulate.

 

6 years in the making, it's kind of hard to believe that there's no more Pegasus bits to be made.  I'll be honest - I am very pleased with the outcome, and even more pleased that I managed to get this far.  Had I known the challenges that were going to present themselves during this build I probably never would have started it.  I think I thought it was going to take me around 2 years to construct this 

The decals were an item I never would have imagined causing so much delay and frustration, however, once I managed to source them things started moving a lot quicker. - and thank heavens for 3D printing - a technology that snuck it's head in the door at some point through this build. Purchasing that printer was one of the best investments I've made - it really opened up the door to what's possible for the model maker and without it I really would have been struggling to make some of the components such as door handles and lamps etc. 

 

 

6 years.  Hard to believe. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, KeithHC said:

This has been very much a goto thread. Please start a new project I will miss your updates. Well done on the finished project.

 

Keith

 

Thanks Keith

 

2 hours ago, richard i said:

If you start another thread please post here what it is as watching this be built has been one of the highlights of following rmweb.  Excellent work. Well done on it’s completion.

richard 

 

Thanks Richard

 

1 hour ago, Bucoops said:

Simply stunning work. Well done - well done indeed.

 

Thanks Bucoops

 

 

I think I may have unintentionally misled you by the "That's All Folks" piccie.  I intended that to mean only for this update! - not the full build.

I shall be posting right up until it goes into the display case so you still have a few weeks of updates left.

 

I started the separate roof today and things are progressing well, though it may prove to be a little more problematic than I anticipated so stay tuned - update in a day or so, maybe.

 

 

2 hours ago, Hilux5972 said:

I hate to mention this but wouldn’t the table closest to the door have been shaped like this? 

A01887B9-E8D2-44AD-8786-25565477C3BC.jpeg

 

You may think so but no.  We kept as close to the original as possible - and that meant using the original tables which we salvaged from Pegasus.  Those tables were refurbished and refitted, as were a number of other fittings.

We always thought the layout a bit strange but that was the original layout and we stuck to it.  You can see here in this photo that the table is rectangular, and doesn't quite reach out to fully cover the seat by the corridor doorway.

 

tby-peg-07.jpg

(photo Courtesy Terry Bye)

 

I've tried to remain as faithful as possible to the 2000 rebuild and everything I have done is based on what we did in that build

 

 

 

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On 19/07/2020 at 06:32, Adam88 said:

Most excellent - everything.  Will you be adding any antimacassars as in the last photograph?

 

My analyst said that for the good of my health I should avoid antimacassars at all costs.

 

Well folks, you've not gotten off that easy - I'm still here, for better or worse.

 

Yes, that little matter of the roof. 

Supplies arrived this week so there was no point in putting it off and I decided to jump right in and see what happens.  As has been my modus operandi throughout this build, I tend not to think about things too much and make things up as I go along - for better or worse. 

For Pullman roof building you will need:  Various strips of basswood, some 3D printed bulkheads, and my old fallback, the piece of granite which is great for building things on when you want things to stay flat. You'll also need some superglue gel, some wood glue, and a plan.  I forgot to stock up on the plan.  Live life on the edge, that's what I say.

 

P7180001.jpg

 

The two bulkheads with the holes in them were my first idea for the roof from a few weeks back.  They were going to have brass tubes inserted through them but that was before I decided I wanted to see the inside of the roof/ceiling.  I kept them just in case...

Bulkheads were positioned after some careful measuring (multiples of) and the first spars laid down.  As soon as I had glued these in position I realized that I should have chamfered the edge to accept the next layer. Oh well.  They're in place now.

 

P7180002.jpg

 

Subsequent planks had one edge tapered to try and close up the gaps as it was laid against it's predecessor.  It doesn't have to be too tidy here as I know I'm going to have to fill and sand and sand and fill and sand and sand and fill some more, but at least I made an effort.

I started from both outside edge sand worked my way in to the center and not surprisingly when I got to top dead center I was left with a bit of a gap.  SG Gel was used at each plank end to adhere to the plastic bulkhead and wood glue was used between the planks to glue the wood to wood.

 

P7180003.jpg

 

Easily enough sorted - I had to taper another strip and got it wedged in there with some wood glue.

 

P7180004.jpg

 

Once I got into the rhythm of things it went pretty fast - at least the first two sections did.

 

P7190006.jpg

 

Wait a minute... I did all that measuring but did I check it?  I've picked up a horrible habit of misreading rules these days. For example - on a dimension of 67, I'll often read it as 62.  I think it's because I'm wearing those magnifying lenses and I'm so close to the rule that I mistake the 5mm mark for the 10 mm mark.  That's my excuse anyway.

Luckily my measure 32 times before cutting appeared to work and a quick check shows that the bulkheads are in the correct relative positions.

 

P7190008.jpg

 

Looks not to bad at all.  This working without a plan seems to be the way to go

The plan that I don't have was to glue all the wooden strips in place then sand back until I hit plastic.  That way I know I have the roof profile correct.

 

P7190013.jpg

 

However there is one slight issue that you may have spotted in the above photo. When I designed the bulkheads, I placed a small ridge on either side to provide a small ledge to provide support for the wooden planks.  Great huh?

I created the outer profile of the bulkhead as per the roof skin profile and set the ledge back by 1.25mm.  Those wooden strips are 3mm thick!

This image shows the problem more clearly.  All the wood sticking out past the plastic needs to be sanded away. That's a lot of wood.  That's a LOT of sanding!!!!

 

P7210023.jpg

 

Before anyone asks - I chose 3mm thick strips as it gave enough beef to the strips so they wouldn't flex while being glued in position. - It also gave me 3mm of edge to apply glue with.  Anyway, I'll deal with that later... he says with all the confidence of someone who doesn't know what they've gotten themselves into.

As we approach the end of the roof,  I didn't want to just print off a plastic end cap - that felt like cheating for some unknown reason and I felt I had to do some of that old fashioned scratch building with an attempt at skill there somewhere.

So I printed off an end section of roof that would allow me to infill with wood yet still provide the profile that I needed to sand back to. Did I mention that there's going to be LOTS of sanding?

 

P7190012.jpg

 

So far so good.  At least it's all holding together (I only broke it once before getting to this stage)

 

P7200016.jpg

 

Initial shaping begins... with LOTS of sanding.

For some obscure reason, while I chose nice and easy to sand basswood for the roof strips, when it came to the end caps, I used some unknown wood that is incredibly hard and difficult to sand.

I wore out my last solitary sanding drum on this end so had to order more.

 

P7200015.jpg

 

Now if any of you observant folks out there have been thinking ahead you'll have spotted the elephant in my plan.  I have a roof made out of 3 mm basswood strips, but I'm going to sand that back to approximately 1.25 mm thick - and this roof is about two foot long - about 610 mm in new money.

It's going to be awfully thin and flexible innit?  Not to mention weak and likely to break even while sanding.

Aha!  That's where this stuff comes in

 

P7210018.jpg

 

I really don't like fiberglass. I really don't like fiberglass resin.  I've never had much luck with it and always ended up in a complete mess, but since I've used pretty much every other material available at some point during this build, I may as well add fiberglass to the list.

The interior of the roof was liberally coated with resin (hopefully mixed properly), followed my the mat, and stippled into place with more resin. The incredibly helpful folks at Bondo provided typical American units of measurement - Use 6 oz of resin and 10 drops of hardener, or alternately 2 Tablespoons of resin and 1/4 teaspoon of hardener. Along with that came all sorts of warnings about not getting the mix right and it'll dissolve your car.

I took a chance and converted to ml - but you never know if Google is using American ounces or Barleycorns in the conversion. Who knows.  Anyway...

 

P7210019.jpg

 

Luckily for me, that all seemed to go to my non-existent plan of a plan. When the resin set up, the whole roof was remarkably solid - and flat. Well, the bottom of the roof was flat. The top was curved. Just saying.

Two days of sanding later and I thought I'd throw some paint on it just for giggles. I know I'm a long way from the final shape but I wanted a gut check on overall look, which was difficult with light colored wood.

 

P7210020.jpg

 

I guess we're not doing too badly here. At least it sort of looks like what it's supposed to be... sort of.

 

P7210021.jpg

 

But as you can see, after two days of sanding I still have a LONG way to go to remove all that excess roof wood. I reckon I've taken just about a millimetre off the overall thickness

 

P7210022.jpg

 

which means that I still have a LOT of sanding to do.  Thinking back, I really should have recessed that ledge further, but I wanted to keep as close as possible to the original plans, and I wanted that depth of curvature inside the roof.

I'll persevere with the sanding for the moment but depending on how things go, I may fill in the gaps that you can see above and just make sure everything is smooth on the outer surface and call it a day at that.  

 

until next time. 

 

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