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Slaters loco wheels - hex socket size


Simond
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Hi all

 

Can anyone tell me what the correct across-flats dimension should be for Slater's wheels Allen key?

 

AFAIK, the bolt is 6BA - I'm struggling to find a spec on the www.

 

I think it should be 1.24 mm ish but I've seen 1.27 quoted in the old RMWeb

 

I seem to be having problems, which might best be served by buying some new screws, and another new Allen key....

 

Thanks

Simon

Edited by Simond
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Oh dear.... I suppose that might have been a good place to start looking.

 

Well, in my defence, I have at least 3 Allen keys which came from Slaters. One of them measures 1.27 / 1.26 / 1.22, the others seem to be about 1.21 to 1.23.

 

The AF dimension also seem to vary slightly with length. Given that they are made from hex bar, this seems unlikely, so I suspect contamination or corrosion.

 

The frustration is that they do seem to be good only for a single use, two if you're lucky. Or maybe I'm ham-fisted. I had to drill out one from the King and I haven't even finished it yet!

 

I have some spare screws, and will order some new keys...

 

Thanks

Simon

Edited by Simond
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Hi all

 

Can anyone tell me what the correct across-flats dimension should be for Slater's wheels Allen key?

 

AFAIK, the bolt is 6BA - I'm struggling to find a spec on the www.

 

I think it should be 1.24 mm ish but I've seen 1.27 quoted in the old RMWeb

 

I seem to be having problems, which might best be served by buying some new screws, and another new Allen key....

 

Thanks

Simon

You probably mean, "Yet another new Allen key".

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Oh dear.... I suppose that might have been a good place to start looking.

 

Well, in my defence, I have at least 3 Allen keys which came from Slaters. One of them measures 1.27 / 1.26 / 1.22, the others seem to be about 1.21 to 1.23.

 

The AF dimension also seem to vary slightly with length. Given that they are made from hex bar, this seems unlikely, so I suspect contamination or corrosion.

 

The frustration is that they do seem to be good only for a single use, two if you're lucky. Or maybe I'm ham-fisted. I had to drill out one from the King and I haven't even finished it yet!

 

I have some spare screws, and will order some new keys...

 

Thanks

Simon

 

Simon, in my experience they do seem rather soft and round off very easily. One thing that might help is to make sure that the key is pushed right home and this is easier if there is no paint (or any other stuff) in the socket.

I have often wondered if there might not be a better "engineering" quality key available.

 

Chaz

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Simon, in my experience they do seem rather soft and round off very easily. One thing that might help is to make sure that the key is pushed right home and this is easier if there is no paint (or any other stuff) in the socket.

I have often wondered if there might not be a better "engineering" quality key available.

 

Chaz

Perhaps we should lobby Slater's or start a petition to produce a more durable allen key? If we got 100,000 signatures we could even have a debate in parliament. https://petition.parliament.uk/

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Bob,

 

Good thought re the guitar shop, but if bet he's closed today (and I doubt he stocks them because he's much more folky than electric)

 

50 thou is 1.27-and-a-bit...

 

I have to go to Screwfix to buy my lad a boiler suit (work experience, in a train maintenance depot :) - no, he's not impressed :( ) so we'll see what's available.

 

The damn screws round off too...

 

Thx

Simon

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The size seems common to the allen screws used in very small electric motors used on weeny RC aircraft so you could give your local RC shop a try. Mine did me a bag of 10 for not very much money, giving me one to keep in the Slaters wheel box, one in my micro screwdriver set, one with my RC odds and ends, one in my general hex key box and various other distributed through various pockets and wallets.

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We don't have a local R/C shop any more - we had them in Ashford and Canterbury, a few years back (and model train shops there, and in Hythe, Folkestone and Dover) but no more :(

 

The nearest R/C shop appears to be 32 miles and 50 minutes away.  The nearest model railway shops are in Ashford and Faversham, but I doubt either has anything to do with Slaters, they don't do 0 gauge AFAIK.  I tend to buy on line or at one of the shows - the nearest 0 gauge show is Reading Trade in December, but I do try to support local clubs/shows too.

 

I do wonder, when everything that anyone wants, is ordered on line, and delivered by drone, within the hour, without human intervention, how any of us will have a job that allows us any money to buy anything...

 

Meanwhile, I went to Screwfix and bought a pack of Allen Keys (thus duplicating most of the bigger ones I have) - hopefully of more useful quality.

 

Chaz - fully agree, one does need to ensure that there's nothing preventing full engagement of the key and screw.  Be sure I'll post if this one doesn't work!

 

I also tend to oil the hole in the axle, doesn't really seem to solve the problem however.

 

I can't be bothered to work out the maximum theoretical torque that the key should be able to provide, on the basis that it won't change anything.

 

If I need to drill one out, I can.  Just wish I didn't need to do it before the loco is finished!

 

best

Simon

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Perhaps we should lobby Slater's or start a petition to produce a more durable allen key?

Now why would they do that? They make money by selling replacements to something that has a short lifetime.

[cynic mode] and wheels that rust [/cynic mode] ;)

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Bob,

 

Good thought re the guitar shop, but if bet he's closed today (and I doubt he stocks them because he's much more folky than electric)

 

50 thou is 1.27-and-a-bit...

 

I have to go to Screwfix to buy my lad a boiler suit (work experience, in a train maintenance depot :) - no, he's not impressed :( ) so we'll see what's available.

 

The damn screws round off too...

 

Thx

Simon

 

If you find a superior tool which fits do please post details here - I would be up for a couple. (Of course the 2nd one would never be needed :jester: )

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Thanks for this I just posted under kit building, managed to lose the hex completely . I agree can only undo them twice, now stuck and having to use mini drill to gut a slot as it's completely jammed. Thought I'd finished the chassis and now going backwards

 

Cest la vie , all part of the fun,least it isn't only me

 

Cheers

Simon

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Hello all,

 

a bit late in replying to this thread, yes it is 50 thou. for the Alan key, I get mine from a local ironmongers for about 30p. If you get the screw stuck in the axle and the screw head gets chewed up us an automatic centre punch close to the edge of the screw first us it as you would normally, then at about 45Degs.    

For replacement screw you want 1/4" X 6BA I get mine from Items Mail Order.

post-8920-0-65712300-1441117172_thumb.jpg

 

OzzyO.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all,

 

....If you get the screw stuck in the axle and the screw head gets chewed up us an automatic centre punch close to the edge of the screw first us it as you would normally, then at about 45Degs.    

OzzyO.

 

Oh yes, I remember doing that. A bit tricky but it does work, and has the merit of leaving both wheel and axle undamaged.

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I've managed to drill them out using a fairly large drill - not sure exactly but bigger than the screw core diameter

 

The head comes off, the wheel comes off and there's a wee bit of screw to get a grip with the good pliers

 

Best

Simon

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  • 5 years later...
On 31/08/2015 at 09:10, chaz said:

 

Simon, in my experience they do seem rather soft and round off very easily. One thing that might help is to make sure that the key is pushed right home and this is easier if there is no paint (or any other stuff) in the socket.

I have often wondered if there might not be a better "engineering" quality key available.

 

Chaz

Look in the RS catalogue. Won't be cheap though. Mine came courtesy of a service engineer who, having broken the tiniest one, swore loudly and threw the whole set into the bin whilst ordering replacements on line. The soft key is possibly a design feature to protect the screw head. If it rounded it can be cut back with a Dremel or piercing saw.

Edited by doilum
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23 minutes ago, Lochgorm said:

PRComponents sell a nice 50thou Allen Key set in a solid brass handle for Slaters wheels.  I can't advise of the present cost as I got mine some time ago but it has certainly stood the test of time.

 

Charlie

 

FB8DAB22-4B8C-4B99-91A0-671D2AE02B05.jpeg.5ac0d7abbbecae7ce6b02b1acc6da142.jpeg

 

 

RS one is similar. Very easy to use, less chance of slipping or overtightening.

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