Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Take 2 or 3mm of the bottom of his legs then replace his feet (it might work ) Sorry,i was thinking of 00 gauge. you may need a little more. Very good idea thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Shorter = Fatter............1:48 = A bit smaller...........but if the scan isn't you, it doesn't matter. And if you chop a section from his legs he really will be out of proportion, noticeable if he is standing at the door.......he may well be worse than the Heljan scan of the Prairie everyone is so worried about Hmmm... think he may will have to go back to engine shed for a rest and I will look for a replacement driver Still not happy that he broke the door hinge as he got into the cab. However I did get the Station Master to have a look and he said said hinge was very fragile in the first place and suggested others should be made aware of this. He also mentioned the door did not shut anyway as there is some mould flash which was not trimmed flush with door frame on this side of the loco during production phase. He said he had seen this before on the other locos purchased at same time from same batch. He said the other door shuts OK as there is no flash to prevent it from closing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2016 Very good idea thanks! I am not so sure Henri Toulouse-lautrec was ever working on British Railways....... But who knows? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2016 Ooops...my mistake........your OK to use him...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2016 Thanks for the info regarding the hinge/door flash......I shall issue a "Proceed with Caution" notice to all my crew rostered on the 08 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Ooops...my mistake........your OK to use him...... Outstanding haha! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
toffee Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Hmmm... think he may will have to go back to engine shed for a rest and I will look for a replacement driver Still not happy that he broke the door hinge as he got into the cab. However I did get the Station Master to have a look and he said said hinge was very fragile in the first place and suggested others should be made aware of this. He also mentioned the door did not shut anyway as there is some mould flash which was not trimmed flush with door frame on this side of the loco during production phase. He said he had seen this before on the other locos purchased at same time from same batch. He said the other door shuts OK as there is no flash to prevent it from closing. Yours is not the only driver to bust a lower door hinge :-( I was trying out a white metal figure for size when he slipped and ended up inside the cab on the floor, getting him out also broke the hinge and brought out the brake standard for good measure......... Question, how do I get into the cab to put the brake standard back without bashing the door again, any ideas ? The door I guess if it cannot be fixed I will just have to glue slightly ajar. Ho hum, upward and onward eh ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kickstart Posted December 11, 2016 Author Share Posted December 11, 2016 Some people are tall. But you could use him for a shed cameo, looking down disapprovingly on a you kid found trying to cadge rides. Katy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 Yours is not the only driver to bust a lower door hinge :-( I was trying out a white metal figure for size when he slipped and ended up inside the cab on the floor, getting him out also broke the hinge and brought out the brake standard for good measure......... Question, how do I get into the cab to put the brake standard back without bashing the door again, any ideas ? The door I guess if it cannot be fixed I will just have to glue slightly ajar. Ho hum, upward and onward eh ? Try this link which takes you to a kind chap who provides a very good article on how he has dismantled the loco right down to getting inside the cab (if you dare of course)... https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2016/11/23/wordless-wednesday-dapols-08/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 11, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2016 Try this link which takes you to a kind chap who provides a very good article on how he has dismantled the loco right down to getting inside the cab (if you dare of course)... https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2016/11/23/wordless-wednesday-dapols-08/ I must say they are probably the best photographs I have seen of a "Black" Loco, lighting is perfect........great source also. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertiedog Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 I have just stripped down the Dapol 08 Loco after a running in session, and no problems have emerged with the Locos running, bar an odd displacement of the rods during rotation, which is very slight, and I found the cause. One of the flycranks was very sightly out of quarter, only about .5 degree, but enough to cause the rods to bend out of straight as they rotated. What overcomes it allowing running, is the general clearances of the crankpins and the rods bearings, which are generous, but normal on RTR locos. The rods match exactly the wheelbase, and therefore it had to be either the throw was wrong on one crank, or far more likely, the crank was out of quartering on one wheel. I have only pulled and reset one wheel and it runs the same but with the rods rotating quite straight now. The spacers are the next point, and I do not like to remove them entirely, as it does restrict the wheels side movement a bit for tight curves. It also means a very serious job shortening the axles, which could be done by sawing and filling, but it would be a long job to get the best finish. In a lathe it could be done straightforwardly. On the original brass spacers, there are many cures, but the first best method would be to pull the cranks and replace with heat treated steel turnings, naturally blacked after red heat, clean, and gently reheat till dark blue and quench in oil. If the brass washers are retained, they can be treated with a de-greaser, any strong thinners, and then washed in detergent and use toothpaste, or valve grinding paste, to abrade the surface, and then after a further clean and rinse, drop them on a plastic wire loop into the gunblack. Shake for a few seconds in the gunblack, and then removed and dry, but oil them before re-assembly to keep the finish. Carrs also do a blackening solution. If you want the very best black finish on brass, then clean as above, and rinse in very hot water (50c min), whilst on a plastic wire loop, and the transfer to a hot Copper Carbonate bath to blacken for about 20 seconds of so, then rinse and dry, they do not require oil to retain the black finish. The copper carbonate (reagent) bath is prepared with distilled water, with about 40% ammonia solution added, then heated to about 50 to 60C, and the copper carbonate added till it will dissolve no more into the solution. A sacrificial brass sample or two, should then be tried to make sure the solution works and it helps prime the reaction with the work to be done. The solution should be contained in a Pyrex type jug, glass only, no metal containers. I make it up in 500ml of water batches. The solution keeps if stored in a sealed jar, and you can add more carbonate or ammonia into a used solution to refresh it for further use.. The copper carbonate solution must be at at last 50C to work, and the items dipped in clean water at 50c before being transferred to the carbonate / ammonia bath. Do not over do the process, it goes patchy or grey, dip the items and check, and re-dip to get the effect that you want. Samples should be done before committing to the Dapol parts, as it needs a bit of skill to get it right. The process is an old one, once a trade secret, used to antique bronze statues with a permanent dark finish, and is also used in cameras and lenses to provide the very best satin black finish. Once done with this process, only wear will remove the black finish, which is very stable indeed. One point is you must wear a mask anf gloves, and be well ventilated with fresh air due to the Ammonia fumes, they are very strong indeed when it is heated up, you have been warned! The finish is better and more stable than gun black in both the copper sulphate or selenium types. The Copper Carbonate (reagent) powdered form, is available on Ebay along with the Ammonia at full strength. ( Do not confuse with Cloudy Ammonia). The next solution for the washer spacers is to use a lathe and turn up a set of spacers in black Acetyl plastic, or black filled Nylon, or black Perspex, all of which resist oil completely, and will remain completely black in use. If the flycranks are out of quarter, then a gear puller will be needed to remove them from the axles, there are commercial ones, or a home made one can be made from stout brass sheet or steel with a bolt though a nut soldered on to one side of the bow, with a slit on the other side for the axle. Once off the axles, clean the flycrank holes with a very fine needle file, very gently and clean the axle subs with fine emery paper till they just slide on, and then use Loctite to secure them, it gives time to correct things, do not use superglue! Epoxy may be used as well, but not the quick set type. The flycranks can also be set to be opposite the balance weights on the wheels. Once the Loco is re-assembled and tested, if you want, the flycrank can be drilled with a small number drill through the boss into the axle, and a wire secured into the hole with superglue, to act as a retainer. This should not really be necessary if the Loctite is used correctly. When the flycranks are all removed you can put each on a mandrill in the lathe and re-face the front flat. To do the centre mark on the axle end make a drilled block of steel or brass with a small centre drilled hole in one side, and then drill right through with a small drill, say .6mm. to ..8mm, the exact size does not matter. Hold the block over the axle end with the end in the centre drilled block, and them, by hand, reintroduce the dill to the hole, from the outside, and turn by hand the drill in a watchmakers collet holder. The small drill will automatically find the centre spot and you drill in till it looks right. One change I have done is the top cover, it is awkward to remove etc, and best altered to be retained by magnets, small neodymium ones glued under each end inside the body, with matching ones on each end of the cover. Remove the "catch" part of the tips of the claws that hold the roof first, till it drops into place and comes our freely, then fit the magnets....one at each end works fine, but you could do the sides as well if you want. To remove simply grip gently and it will come away, without risk to the finish etc.. One long term change may be to fit a Maxon coreless motor and dual flywheels to get even better low speed running, but at the moment it is fine enough not to bother. Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 12, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2016 Phew! I think I'll just use a Black Sharpie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lodekka Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Yours is not the only driver to bust a lower door hinge :-( I was trying out a white metal figure for size when he slipped and ended up inside the cab on the floor, getting him out also broke the hinge and brought out the brake standard for good measure......... Question, how do I get into the cab to put the brake standard back without bashing the door again, any ideas ? The door I guess if it cannot be fixed I will just have to glue slightly ajar. Ho hum, upward and onward eh ? Simples, see my earlier post on stripping the loco down... Once the superstructure is separated from the chassis then the cab unscrews and can be seaparated. Then VERY VERY carefully separate the cab floor by running a knife round the edge, note the clips on the inside of the rear cab end and take care with the fine wiring... Whilst you are in there you can add all sorts of extra details, conduits, pipes etc etc. more gauges and the hot plate and brake standard and crew... Good luck! Lodekka Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted December 13, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 13, 2016 With all the attention to getting the quartering right where it appears it isn't and hiding the brass crank spacers, and having now seen a few shots in the magazine reviews, perhaps it might be an idea to get the cranks correct in relation to the wheel weights where this is possible, because from what I can see they aren't. They should roughly be somewhere around the 160/170 degree position but appear almost side on at 90 degrees unless I am mistaken. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted December 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2016 Blimey! He is a bit clean, obviously the result of keeping his hands in his pockets........just wait till the Yard Foreman catches him.... Looks quite young, too! Nice paint job, though. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 With all the attention to getting the quartering right where it appears it isn't and hiding the brass crank spacers, and having now seen a few shots in the magazine reviews, perhaps it might be an idea to get the cranks correct in relation to the wheel weights where this is possible, because from what I can see they aren't. They should roughly be somewhere around the 160/170 degree position but appear almost side on at 90 degrees unless I am mistaken. Izzy Have a look here, http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/102801-Dapol-08/?p=2524096 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9430 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Can anyone tell me if the ladders around the grille can be removed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfsboy Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I will be sculpting a crew for Dart as soon as my 08 (green /wasp stripes )thuds onto the door mat .Starting to research positions and modus operandi of an actual crew(s) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianthesnail96 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) I think Modelu have an 08 driver in their range, albeit in modern garb- no other than Big Jim of this parish. Scanned in his 08 driving pose so it's accurate for at least one driver! Edit: Here! Edited December 13, 2016 by brianthesnail96 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted December 13, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2016 Had a call from Tower today - Sound Blue D version will be delivered tomorrow... Fingers crossed... Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) Can anyone tell me if the ladders around the grille can be removed? Can anyone tell me if the ladders around the grille can be removed? Dead easy as mine just disintegrated if you put any pressure on it. The rungs are held into ladder uprights by osmosis, or could be just the paint as they are not bonded in any way. The very tiny pins at either end of ladder and towards the top of ladder upright are pushed into brackets protruding from the body. These are held in a similar way. Just give ladder a slight wiggle and it will break the paint bond and should all start to disintegrate like mine did. It's almost I possible to reassemble once in bits (trust me I know!). Nice ladder poor assembly process. Edited December 13, 2016 by Greenmodelmonkey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmodelmonkey Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I think Modelu have an 08 driver in their range, albeit in modern garb- no other than Big Jim of this parish. Scanned in his 08 driving pose so it's accurate for at least one driver! Edit: Here! Careful though as i doubt if he will fit through the door (see my previous post about breaking door hinges and my Modelu figure is much thinner than big jim). I expect cab will have to be dismantled first to get most figures in without damaging the doors. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
norman Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Had a call from Tower today - Sound Blue D version will be delivered tomorrow... Fingers crossed... Chris Impressive, it must take a full 10 minutes to install a decoder and speaker. I wonder why there has been such a long delay. I suppose it will just go to prove that modellers can be really patient LOL Norman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 14, 2016 I think Modelu have an 08 driver in their range, albeit in modern garb- no other than Big Jim of this parish. Scanned in his 08 driving pose so it's accurate for at least one driver! Edit: Here! You'll definitley need him at 1:48 scale just to get him in the cabin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium boxbrownie Posted December 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 14, 2016 (edited) I will be sculpting a crew for Dart as soon as my 08 (green /wasp stripes )thuds onto the door mat .Starting to research positions and modus operandi of an actual crew(s) You must have one hell'uva letter box! Or a very determined Postie...... Edited December 14, 2016 by boxbrownie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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