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Thanks both......

 

I laser cut the wipers myself in 0.5mm Trotec (after a bit of trial and error, size-wise - as I've done some before as replacements for one of my vehicles.)

 

The green bodywork has already had a rub down and polish, and a first work-over with lamp black, which takes the 'newness' off of it.

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Thanks both......

 

I laser cut the wipers myself in 0.5mm Trotec (after a bit of trial and error, size-wise - as I've done some before as replacements for one of my vehicles.)

 

The green bodywork has already had a rub down and polish, and a first work-over with lamp black, which takes the 'newness' off of it.

Thanks, Giles much appreciated.

 

Can you remind me, did you cut down the spacers on the coupling rods?

 

ATVB

 

CME

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Hi Giles,

 

Thank you for all the advice, things like the guard irons I did not even know about. Can you explain what this " lamp black " is ? And when you say rub down are we talking fine grade sand paper or wet and dry ?

 

Sorry for all the questions, but it's the weathering that brings it all to life.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

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No problem....!

 

The rubbing down is with 2000 grit wet & dry (used wet). Coarser grades won't give quite the same effect. The W&D takes out all the bumps of the natural paint (though the 08 has the smoothest paint finish on a model I've come across) and then just needs buffing to bring back the 'gleam'.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80509-giles-weathered-locos-rub-down-and-polish-technique/&do=findComment&comment=2435871

 

 

This then provides a realistic and practical surface for weathering. On the bodies, where more subtly is required, I rather like to use Winsor & Newton Water-soluble oil paints - 'Lamp Black' being one of them. Worked into joints, corners, rivet lines etc., and then immediately wiped off (as you go!) if leaves subtle staining, which can then be added to by more conventional means.

 

 

Hi CME - I confess I haven't done anything with the spacers other than paint them black! I haven't found them so much of a problem that I've needed to have a go - although I very greatly admire those that have!

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No problem....!

 

The rubbing down is with 2000 grit wet & dry (used wet). Coarser grades won't give quite the same effect. The W&D takes out all the bumps of the natural paint (though the 08 has the smoothest paint finish on a model I've come across) and then just needs buffing to bring back the 'gleam'.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80509-giles-weathered-locos-rub-down-and-polish-technique/&do=findComment&comment=2435871

 

 

This then provides a realistic and practical surface for weathering. On the bodies, where more subtly is required, I rather like to use Winsor & Newton Water-soluble oil paints - 'Lamp Black' being one of them. Worked into joints, corners, rivet lines etc., and then immediately wiped off (as you go!) if leaves subtle staining, which can then be added to by more conventional means.

 

 

Hi CME - I confess I haven't done anything with the spacers other than paint them black! I haven't found them so much of a problem that I've needed to have a go - although I very greatly admire those that have!

Hi Giles, nice work then, theyre almost invisible! I am going to 'gun blue' (or similar) mine and see if I can live with them as they are too. Although, I have the feeling that the quartering on my 08 would benefit from some adjustment, but at this point in time, with lots going on, I have an 08 that looks good and works (so if it aint broke dont fix it springs to mind).

 

Thanks for your replies and Posts - with your vanguard modifications - and sharing such, very much appreciated.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME.

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Basically done now - I got the air-brush out to give a bit of a blow with a matt black/metalcote gunmetal mix (go light on the gunmetal, otherwise it's very grey), followed by straight matt black. This was particularly for the baneful of the bonnet top. After about three minutes (Quick drying thinners used...) I got a clean, flat brush, and worked some of the spray off again - always in vertical strokes. This allows for a bit of rain washing. 

 

Various bits have also received some very subtle dry brushing, with an extremely dry flat brush. gently working it on until you only just see the tint coming on and then stopping. This was mostly done with rust colours, and gives a little dimension and layering - on the body, this was only done in vertical strokes (again.)

 

IMG_0897_zps55equnoo.jpg

 

IMG_0896_zpshng9y77c.jpg

 

IMG_0895_zps7fytges7.jpg

 

IMG_0890_zpsb6mugisw.jpg

Edited by Giles
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Hi Giles,

 

Thanks for the tips, depending on the weather this weekend I might risk getting the airbrush out.

 

What with the sound chip I must admit it is an entertaining little loco to operate.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

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Thanks, Giles much appreciated.

 

Can you remind me, did you cut down the spacers on the coupling rods?

 

ATVB

 

CME

Hi CME,

 

I am one of the chaps that have removed the brass spacers and adjusted the quartering, not the easiest of jobs but glad I did. It was the quartering that was bugging me more than the spacers so I did both in the end, oh and also added a speedo drive from scratch.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

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Hi CME,

I am one of the chaps that have removed the brass spacers and adjusted the quartering, not the easiest of jobs but glad I did. It was the quartering that was bugging me more than the spacers so I did both in the end, oh and also added a speedo drive from scratch.

Regards,

Martyn.

Hi Martyn,

 

Agreed, the quartering is more of an issue for me too - as is wheel positioning - mine runs well, but adjusting the quartering may make it run better as I have detected a slight issue with the running. The speedo drive etc, indeed, looks 'wrong' as is. My reservations? Im not keen on fiddling with pressed on wheels/cranks. Im half way through machining and modifying a puller though-so may pluck up the courage to do the work. Garden baseboards/track are taking priority at the moment, weather permitting (summer sun, through to snow is par fro the course at the mo!).

 

Kindest regards,

 

CME.

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Hi Martyn,

Agreed, the quartering is more of an issue for me too - as is wheel positioning - mine runs well, but adjusting the quartering may make it run better as I have detected a slight issue with the running. The speedo drive etc, indeed, looks 'wrong' as is. My reservations? Im not keen on fiddling with pressed on wheels/cranks. Im half way through machining and modifying a puller though-so may pluck up the courage to do the work. Garden baseboards/track are taking priority at the moment, weather permitting (summer sun, through to snow is par fro the course at the mo!).

Kindest regards,

CME.

Hi CME,

 

It sounds like the same issue with the rods as mine, they didn't actually bind but on each rotation the rods on the right side lifted up slightly but not enough to cause any erratic movement.

 

There is more than enough play in the rods, so you do not have to be that "exact ", when you do correct the quartering/wheel positioning. My 08 is probably the smoothest running of all my locos, but that could be down to converting it to DCC at the same time using a Zimo chip.

 

If you want I will bring the wheel/crank puller I made to Telford, you can have it, hopefully I shouldn't need it again.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

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Giles, any chance of making the wipers available for sale?

I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

 

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

 

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

 

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

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I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

 

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

 

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

 

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

 

Hi Giles,

 

Put me down for 2 packs, please.

 

Kind regards,

 

Paul

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I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

 

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

 

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

 

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

Hi Giles

Can you put me down for 2 packs please

Steve

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I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

 

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

 

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

 

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

 

Could you please put me down for a pack - thank you :)

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Hi CME,

 

It sounds like the same issue with the rods as mine, they didn't actually bind but on each rotation the rods on the right side lifted up slightly but not enough to cause any erratic movement.

 

There is more than enough play in the rods, so you do not have to be that "exact ", when you do correct the quartering/wheel positioning. My 08 is probably the smoothest running of all my locos, but that could be down to converting it to DCC at the same time using a Zimo chip.

 

If you want I will bring the wheel/crank puller I made to Telford, you can have it, hopefully I shouldn't need it again.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

Hi Martyn,

 

That's very kind of you, thank you :imsohappy: sadly I know I wont be at Telford - again - this year, hoping to get to Reading next week though - will you be there? I am also hoping to get to Railex too. Having the right puller will save me machining (butchering) my wheel puller! :mosking:

 

 

I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

 

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

 

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

 

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

Giles, I would be up for a set if you have any left in your batch-run/if that helps? :)

 

ATVB to all,

 

CME :)

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I could do ten sets of wipers (3 of each type) and drilling jigs as a batch at this stage. I think it would be £5 Inc postage (uk)

But I would want to send them out as a batch.... so if there are a few orders out there....

You would need a 0.6mm drill to fit, using a pin vise or similar, rather than an electric drill.

I put the smallest smear of superglue on the blade and push it onto the glazing to ensure it remains in contact.

Paint before fitting is easiest.

One for me too please.

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