Dapol 08

[vimpto]

Can anybody tell me how to access the electrical wheel pick up wipers so I can give them a clean?

[dpgibbons]

Rails have just added the 08 to their Xmas sale at GBP175.

[Kris]

Rails have just added the 08 to their Xmas sale at GBP175.

 

Some models can be found cheaper in other shops. The black ones are £169.95 at Kernow Model Rail Centre. 

[Cheshire001]

I had talked myself out of buying an 08 until I saw a glue-stained one cheap on the Dapol stand at our local model show.   Fortunately the stain was just behind the exhaust, so a mist of black paint from my airbrush covered the stain and looked like exhaust dirt.

 

I mostly use DC, but wanted the red and white shunting marker lights on both ends rather than the directional top marker light.   I considered using batteries, but as I have a DCC controller, thought I may as well install a chip.

 

I noted helpful advice by Lodekka on this topic.

 

One is post #1054, comes on page 43 on my computer.

 

The other I cannot find again, but fortunately I saved it in a Word document for reference:

 

"If anyone cares to follow my earlier post on disassembly of the body and cab, then it is fairly simple (if you are adept with a soldering iron) to simply swap the wires round on the little inverted T shaped LED boards.

 

There are three wires (note that is two 3 pin connectors) going to each end from the main board, the other connector is the two pin cab light. On the two T boards there is a wire to + and then one each to FT & FB or RT & RB, if you simply unsolder and swap over the wires to FT & FB or RT etc....then you can have the shunting lights instead of the top marker lights as default on DC..."

 

I dismantled my loco - unplug the 3 leads on the PCB before you lift the body away.   Somehow managed to get a screwdriver on the front T shaped board and swapped the wires as described.   Mark one with a blob of paint, or you'll end up putting them back the same way.   At the other end, I found it necessary to carefully slip a blade between the base of the cab and footplate to break the seal.   The control panel/bulkhead didn't want to come out, so I couldn't get a screwdriver onto the rear T shaped board.   Managed to touch my soldering iron on the joints through a very small gap.   One wire soldered back on easily but the other was more awkward(!)   Turned out I had caught the surrounding plastic but it's barely noticeable.   Also caught the seat, but I can either fill it or paint it to represent the foam coming out of a worn seat.   In the future I'll have to get back in there to fit a driver.   Took the opportunity to colour the knobs on the throttle handles black and pick out the dials.   

 

Put everything back together, perhaps connecting the plugs at the cab end before you seat the body - mine were out of reach at the cab end.   Then find that despite your best efforts the orange and grey motor wires broke off, so solder them back on to the 'M' terminals.   They're really thin wires, aren't they?

 

I used a Bachmann 36-557 21-pin by Soundtraxx - I read somewhere there is a version made by another company.   Box says it's 4 function, but one of those is "F11 Train brake".   Anyway, before the mod. the directional lights, cab light and front shunting lights worked fine, but the read shunting lights didn't work at all.

 

After swapping the wires, the shunting lights came on in the direction of travel.

Now program CV33=3 and CV34=3.   This lights the front and rear directional lights in both directions of travel.   As the directional light outputs are now wired to the the shunting lights, the shunting lights are all on regardless of direction.   You can turn them on/off with F0.   The chip retains the settings if you move to DC, except that the lights only come on when you apply power.

 

F1 is controlled by CV35.   Default is 16 to control the cab light.   Under DC operation, this always comes on when power is applied, which looks a bit odd but if you set CV35=0 if will turn the cab light off permanently.

 

F2 is controlled by CV36.   Default is 32 which turns the top front marker light on/off.   The top rear light will not illuminate, but it doesn't really serve a useful purpose for me.   Once again this comes on under DC power;  turn it off with CV36=0.

 

Hope I've made all this clear and that it helps somebody.   Thanks to Lodekka for the posts mentioned above;  none of this would have been possible without them.

Edited January 5, 2018 by Cheshire001

[Lodekka]

I had talked myself out of buying an 08 until I saw a glue-stained one cheap on the Dapol stand at our local model show.   Fortunately the stain was just behind the exhaust, so a mist of black paint from my airbrush covered the stain and looked like exhaust dirt.

 

I mostly use DC, but wanted the red and white shunting marker lights on both ends rather than the directional top marker light.   I considered using batteries, but as I have a DCC controller, thought I may as well install a chip.

 

I noted helpful advice by Lodekka on this topic.

 

One is post #1054, comes on page 43 on my computer.

 

The other I cannot find again, but fortunately I saved it in a Word document

 

Hope I've made all this clear and that it helps somebody.   Thanks to Lodekka for the posts mentioned above;  none of this would have been possible without them.

 

Glad my ramblings were of use, I've done three of these now along with DCC sound conversion and stored charge lighting and a separate DCC/ DC switch for other layout running...

Regards

Lodekka

[railtec-models]

Fair play Steve,

 

Looking at the post above, I'll wait until the " complete loco pack " is available for green locos and give it another try. It is strange as I do check my junk mail from time to time, and usually it's just adverts for viagra etc, not that I need them : )

 

Martyn.

 

Hi Martyn (& possibly others), just a quick note to say that the complete loco pack for the BR shunter is now also available in BR green with number (and depot, if applicable) of your choice:

 

Pack 7mm-C0802:

http://www.railtec-models.com/showitem.php?id=3194

 

 

It's entirely likely that I'll make a parallel pack for the early crest once I find that 8th day of the week, though at present there doesn't seem to be much demand for that.

 

As with all the other series of "complete loco pack with your choice of number" packs, I send an email after purchase to confirm which number etc is required.

 

Hope this helps,

Steve

[meatloaf]

Has anyone tried the Dapol imoerium decoders with the 08 locos? Do the lights work correctly using one?

[08221]

Has anyone else had an issue reseating the cab property after removing the cab interior for painting?

 

There is about a 1mm gap round between the bottom of the cab and the footplate whatever I do - most annoying!

 

Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist

[meatloaf]

Ive had an issue with my 08 not working with an imperium deocoder. Works ok with a Bachmann one.

 

I thought id try the Dapol as i thought there decoder would be good for there loco. It was measnt as a stop gap until i get a sound decoder.

 

However Dapol have replied and said they are aware of some issues where the circuit board of the 08 has some solder that's shorting out decoders!

 

Not sure that's happened to mine as i had already spotted a potential clash with the decoder and covered the circuit board with insulating tape.

 

Bachmann chips a lot bigger and works ok

 

Anyone elses 08 blown a decoder?

[meatloaf]

For reference ive installed a 08 TTS decoder today and it works fine.

 

I'll get a bigger speaker but runs and sounds ok.

[leopardml2341]

For reference ive installed a 08 TTS decoder today and it works fine.I'll get a bigger speaker but runs and sounds ok.

Do lights work correctly with that decoder please?

[meatloaf]

Only the directional top light so far

[Johnfromoz]

Meatloaf,

 

Did you use the standard 21 pin to 8 adaptor for this?

 

As an aside, its worth repeating that the standard Hattons cheapie 21 pin wil operate all marker and cab lights on thos loco except shunting lights on the cab end. Control is great too.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Has anyone else had an issue reseating the cab property after removing the cab interior for painting?

There is about a 1mm gap round between the bottom of the cab and the footplate whatever I do - most annoying!

Thanks in advance to anyone who can assist

Hi,

Its something Ive pondered as some came like that from the factory, I may leave the cab unweathered and stick the driver leaning out of the door. Its a risk removing the cab as they dont always re-seat properly. Sorry, no other thoughts as yet.

 

Kind regards

 

CME

[meatloaf]

Meatloaf,

 

Did you use the standard 21 pin to 8 adaptor for this?

 

As an aside, its worth repeating that the standard Hattons cheapie 21 pin wil operate all marker and cab lights on thos loco except shunting lights on the cab end. Control is great too.

Yes mate standard adaptor used. I sealed the speaker into an enclosure and fitted it behind the radiator at the front of the loco

[Johnfromoz]

Any luck getting any other lights to work with TTS?

[meatloaf]

Any luck getting any other lights to work with TTS?

No sadly not.

[NeilHB]

Hi all,

 

I’ve recently purchased a Dapol 08 in BR blue (pre-TOPS) - as it’s not an area of my expertise (but it was too nice to resist) I have a couple of questions.

 

When were the ladders removed from the bonnets? My layout has a last timeframe of autumn 1972 which is when this loco would see use, but would like to make sure it’s accurate.

 

I’m also looking to renumber the loco, currently it’s D3045, but I’d like to change it to represent a member of the class (D4140) that could have been seen on our railway if it had existed in the 1970s) - does anyone produce a suitable set of transfers please?

 

Lastly, I’m wondering if anyone has any suitable photos of our chosen prototype please? We’ve selected D4140 as it was shedded at Barrow-in-Furness (12c) from 1968 to 1974, so could well have been hired to our fictional light railway in the 1970s before it closed. Ideally I’m looking for photos of when it was at Barrow in the period around 1970-72 if possible please - is anyone able to help please?

[Andrew Young]

Neil,

 

Looks like the ladders were lost whilst still green. http://rcts.zenfolio.com/diesel/br/shunters/08/hA0FF7A30#ha0ff7cd9

 

Presume the loco was repainted blue before 1972...?

 

Andrew

[NeilHB]

Neil,

Looks like the ladders were lost whilst still green. http://rcts.zenfolio.com/diesel/br/shunters/08/hA0FF7A30#ha0ff7cd9

Presume the loco was repainted blue before 1972...?

Andrew

Thanks Andy, looks like I shall be removing the ladders then!

 

Not sure about the repaint to blue, really hoping it was before 1970 if possible. If not I’ve got another possible candidate lined up (D3286) which was also at Barrow from 68-74, so again suitable for hiring to the Broughton and Dunnerdale Light when their main motive power has failed...!

[leopardml2341]

Neil,

 

I suggest that you look through the thread for more info wrt numbering as the Dapol model is the earlier type with long bodyside panel hinges, one if your chosen prototypes is of the later series with (much) shorter and different hinges. It's covered in some detail elsewhere in this thread.....

 

Also renumbering, the numbers needs to be a condensed typeface to 'fit' the cab side, again a search through the thread will reveal what, where and how.

 

'fraid it's not easy for me to do for you on a small mobile screen.

Edited April 1, 2018 by leopardml2341

[NeilHB]

Neil,

 

I suggest that you look through the thread for more info wrt numbering as the Dapol model is the earlier type with long bodyside panel hinges, one if your chosen prototypes is of the later series with (much) shorter and different hinges. It's covered in some detail elsewhere in this thread.....

 

Also renumbering, the numbers needs to be a condensed typeface to 'fit' the cab side, again a search through the thread will reveal what, where and how.

 

'fraid it's not easy for me to do for you on a small mobile screen.

Thanks - I’ll have a look back through the thread and see what I can find.

Do you know which of the chosen prototypes has the different hinges etc to the model please? It’ll help hopefully if I don’t have to make major changes as the paint finish is rather nice (though I dare say it’ll end up in a rather grotty state).

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Modern Locomotives Illustrated (MLI) did a potted history of the 08s they may still have back issues. The numbering of each type, has been covered here, already IIRC and there are comprehensive guides in MLI et al.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited April 1, 2018 by CME and Bottlewasher

[NeilHB]

Modern Locomotives Illustrated (MLI) did a potted history of the 08s they may still have back issues. The numbering of each type, has been covered here, already IIRC and there are comprehensive guides in MLI et al.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Thanks CME - sadly no back issues left - anyone got one going spare that they don’t want please?

[HullCityB17]

Thanks CME - sadly no back issues left - anyone got one going spare that they don’t want please?

DC Kits may have the issue that you want as I have come across various back issues on there book stand.