david.hill64 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Bit of a frustrating evening at the bench. On the bright side the painting is progressing well and the body should be ready for a final coat of black this evening, On the other hand, things have not gone so well with the valve gear. The instructions suggest starting at the front with the conjugated drive. The first issue I had is that the drawings show that the valve rods should be cut to 16.5mm. That isn't possible as the castings are shorter than that! So I think that the intention is that the total length of the cut down casting should be 16.5mm. That seems as though it will work. I assembled the drive. The drawings show that washers should be fitted at the pivot for the centre cylinder drive arm, but I have removed them in this photo. The reason for not including them is that the overall width of the drive is too short to fit between the holes in the cylinders. Fitting the washers effectively shortens the drive. Anyway more of that anon. The other issue is that for the long section of the drive to the right hand cylinder, the distance between the pivot point and the end of the drive is greater than the distance between the pivot hole in the frames and the hole in the right hand cylinder. I elongated the hole in the frames to accommodate this, effectively moving the drive assembly to the left. I will solder the screw used for the pivot in place after final assembly so having the elongated hole will not be a problem. Even having done this, the distance from the conjugated drive pivot to the left hand cylinder is fractionally too small. I introduced a small bend to the front of the valve rod, but this bodge isn't the answer. I think the answer will be to disassemble the drive and re-drill the pivot hole in the small beam that links the valve rods on left and centre cylinders. This should be possible as the drive is asymmetric, but I haven't measured it up yet. So to add to the list of suggestions I have for those who will build this kit: Before adding the front cylinder etch to the frames, build up the conjugated drive and check that the distance between the holes in the cylinder plate is the same as the overall width of the drive between the hole centres for the valve rods. Tack the valve guides into place and drill out making sure that the holes in the guides are concentric with the holes in the plates. It would probably be a good idea to use the holes in the front cylinder plate as a template for the rear plate, but I'll reserve judgement on that until I have completed the valve gear and checked for clearances above the slide bars. To add to the general grumpiness, several of the 14BA screws and nuts decided to make an escape bid during assembly, apparently successfully! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 It sounds like no one put that bit together in the test build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Well it has been a much better evening and I am now relaxing with the last drops of the bottle of red wine that has been my companion for the last three nights! The black paint is on the loco body. I need to fit the smokebox door and give that a quick flash of black, then I can get on with painting the buffer beams and cab. The back head just needs a bit more black paint but otherwise is finished. I reworked the conjugated drive. I decided that my original plan of turning round the drive beam for the centre cylinder would not work, so marked where the new hole needed to be, filled the old hole with solder and redrilled. I am pleased with the result. Yes I know the cylinders need a bit of attention! I refitted the con rods and the chassis is still very free rolling. I spent the rest of the evening preparing and assembling the rest of the valve gear sub- assemblies. Not quite finished as I am undecided whether to use the 14BA screws and nuts to hold things together or use 1mm wire pins. As a further balm, the members of the 14BA escape committee have been recaptured! So all in all, definitely meritorious of a glass of red! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 You can make a bottle of red last three days?????????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 For me its 3 quarters of an hour :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 Can't argue with that. Maybe that's why I get heartburn? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 You can make a bottle of red last three days?????????? 3 hours would be more usual! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 21, 2015 Author Share Posted November 21, 2015 Some good progress this morning. The valve gear sub-assemblies have been completed. I decided to pin most of the joints rather than use the 14BA fittings. Then it was time to see how the activities on the washing machine top in the paintshop were progressing. A bit of tidying up on the smokebox door required but otherwise time to get out the red paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 Another satisfying day at the bench. Having built up the chassis and checked that all rotated freely, I dismantled it and rebuilt it including the motor/gearbox. At every stage I tested that all was free running. First with the gearbox and axle, second with the centre wheels in place, third with the con rods attached, then with leading and trailing wheels and coupling rods (no con rods), then adding one side of the valve gear and them with the other side and finally with the conjugated drive in place. I mentioned before about the instructions telling you to cut the valve rods longer than they are on the casting. This dimension is obviously intended as it proved impossible to use the brass sleeves that are supplied to link rear and forward rods. So I used the approach that Martin Finney describes for the A4, and used some nickel silver wire to link the two. I forgot to take a picture of that. I did, however, take a picture of the torque reaction bar that I fitted. This is a long 10BA countersunk screw. I tapped one side of the frames and had a larger hole on the other side to sink the screw head. I also added a locknut. I fitted the trailing wheels too. The body has been having the buffer beams and cab interior painted. Still a bit to go, but she is beginning to look the part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 David I've been following this build with particular interest as I have one of these kits in the cupboard awaiting a start on construction. The V3’s were a particular favourite of mine as they passed the bottom of my street on a continuous basis working ECS. On 21st November 1964 I was lucky to be on Gateshead shed when V3 67691 returned for the final time and I was invited into the cab by a member of the shed staff who's responsibility it was to kill the fire and allow its life to slowly ebb away. Later that same day it was towed off to Heaton shed to join the remainder of the class in store, All of which were condemned two days later. They ended up at a Thompsons of Stockton scrapyard but almost twelve months would elapse before the last one was cut up .A true tragedy that not one was saved. I've just about run out of Pacifics to build so the V3 wont be too far away. I've seen a few completed V3's over the years and while the DJH V3 kit is by far and away the best available dare I say there is one aspect of the kit which I feel does not look just right that of the smokebox door and seal which are a tad too small in diameter for my liking. With an opening smokebox door feature perhaps it was designed to be so we will never know Anyway my sincere thanks to you David for such an enlightening and enormously helpful record of your V3 build Regards Bob The image below is a record of that fateful day back on the 21st November 1964 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Silverstreak: thank you. I am sure you will enjoy building your V3. It is a very nice kit with just a few niggles. I hope my experience is useful. I understand what you say about the smokebox door. If you don't want it to open then you may be able to source an alternative from somewhere. (Don't know where though!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 I fitted the ashpan and assorted gubbins last night. It really should have been fitted much earlier, but it only makes an appearance in the photos late on. Trust me: it will be much easier to fit this before adding the brake rodding. You just need to ensure that it will not interfere with the motor gearbox that you are using. Here is a general shot of the top of the chassis showing the valve spindle connections and the pick-ups. Finally, the crew's well appointed accommodation looking far too clean! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockershovel Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 That satin black finish really is very effective Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 That satin black finish really is very effective Thanks! It is Halford's satin black rattle can on top of Halford's acid etch primer. Once lined (PC Pressfix) I'll finish with Mr Color semi-gloss varnish. I like the 'Mr Color' paints but the shop where I buy them from has disappeared as the building is redeveloped. I just hope I can find where they moved to as I was hoping to bring a stock back to UK with me (tusk tusk!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 For me its 3 quarters of an hour :-) More like thirty minutes here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted November 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 24, 2015 Its a lovely model and you've done a great job. Are the fittings on the backhead all separate as I noticed it has both the air and vacuum brakes on the backhead, but I thought (maybe wrongly) they would have lost the air brake fittings in the cab after the pumps were taken off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 I've noticed that Halfords now stock a black etch primer so I'll be trying that out next time I build a chassis! Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 Its a lovely model and you've done a great job. Are the fittings on the backhead all separate as I noticed it has both the air and vacuum brakes on the backhead, but I thought (maybe wrongly) they would have lost the air brake fittings in the cab after the pumps were taken off. Thanks! The backhead fittings are all separate. None of the parts are identified though! I had thought that the valve below the vacuum ejector was the steam brake: additional optional parts are given for Westinghouse fitted locos, but I haven't fitted them (nor AWS). I don't have any drawings of the backhead so guess work on my part. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkallan Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Thanks! It is Halford's satin black rattle can on top of Halford's acid etch primer. Once lined (PC Pressfix) I'll finish with Mr Color semi-gloss varnish. I like the 'Mr Color' paints but the shop where I buy them from has disappeared as the building is redeveloped. I just hope I can find where they moved to as I was hoping to bring a stock back to UK with me (tusk tusk!). I see an airbrush investment coming, David................! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted November 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 24, 2015 Ah, that explains it, the valve below is the Westinghouse air brake (personally I'm now converted on how good air brakes on steam engines are, especially light engine having recently had Tornado) The Dreadnought will have worked the steam brake by the reduction in the vacuum. Even though I don't do 7mm your build makes it very tempting. Now who's for a new build V3........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 25, 2015 Author Share Posted November 25, 2015 Ah, that explains it, the valve below is the Westinghouse air brake (personally I'm now converted on how good air brakes on steam engines are, especially light engine having recently had Tornado) The Dreadnought will have worked the steam brake by the reduction in the vacuum. Even though I don't do 7mm your build makes it very tempting. Now who's for a new build V3........... Thank you: looks like I have some re-plumbing to do! Annoying as I had already relocated this part once before! Be careful - 7mm is dangerously addictive! (This kit will do the V3 as well). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 >>>>Blandford 1969 Now whos for a new build V3<<<<< Well if you are referring to a Twelve inches to the foot example don't hold your breath I seem to recall during the long road in funding the A1 project mention was made that a V3 could be the groups next new build project and look what happened Now people with less sense and deep pockets are flocking to fund a prototype that was unsuccessful first time round Earlier this year it was reported in one of the Steam Mags that the same group were at it again intimating that a new K3 or V3 could be their next build For the money it will cost for a new P2 and the amount wasted on Flying Scotsman we could have had a small fleet of V3s to bolster our preserved lines which would contribute more to the economy than any P2 or Flying Scotsman Rant over !!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Blandford1969 Posted November 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2015 >>>>Blandford 1969 Now whos for a new build V3<<<<< Well if you are referring to a Twelve inches to the foot example don't hold your breath I seem to recall during the long road in funding the A1 project mention was made that a V3 could be the groups next new build project and look what happened Now people with less sense and deep pockets are flocking to fund a prototype that was unsuccessful first time round Earlier this year it was reported in one of the Steam Mags that the same group were at it again intimating that a new K3 or V3 could be their next build For the money it will cost for a new P2 and the amount wasted on Flying Scotsman we could have had a small fleet of V3s to bolster our preserved lines which would contribute more to the economy than any P2 or Flying Scotsman Rant over !!!! You are very true in what you say. I will have to live in hope to have a V3 from the P2 people, it can make a driver very lazy - lighting you just switch, air sanders, ipod charger. It would certainly be far more use on preserved lines than a P2 - having said that I'm sure the P2 will be superb and will be lovely to see. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Share Posted November 26, 2015 No pictures today, but thanks to Blandford1969's useful intervention, the backhead has been re-plumbed and re-painted and now fixed in place. The body is lined, numbered and varnished and is awaiting buffers, vac and steam bags, couplings, coal and glazing (aarrgghh!). Some painting still required for the cab roof interior (gauges). The chassis is complete: the last items were sandpipes and handbrake lever. Painting is nearly complete but still need to re-do the wheels. Clearance was non-existent between the brakeshaft and the injector overflow pipe which had to be reformed slightly. Being copper that was easy. The kit also includes some whitemetal crew (Sandy and Iain I think). I need to attach their arms and then get them painted up. The end is in sight but a few more evenings required yet I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted November 26, 2015 Author Share Posted November 26, 2015 Nearly there.................. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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