Triang TT Technical advice

[fallen]

Gary,

 

Silver Fox looks very good, a nice model and well worth the effort. Looks very tempting although I have no-where I could sensibly run one, my modelling interest is LMS branches so not very likely on those!

 

Frank

[Golden Fleece 30]

Thanks Frank,

 

So the Duchess is out too I guess, although could you not have a special working one day a week to allow it to run?  It s a pity these Atlas models did not have a couple of smaller locos, but, on the cards is an ex LMS 0-4-4 tank so watch this space as they say.

 

Garry

[Il Grifone]

Hi Garry,

 

I don't know how old the Atlas models are. They are not mentioned on their website, so I presume they date back a few years. They keep cropping up at toyfairs - the Duchess seems quite common (perhaps she was the £1-99 starter?). I'll have to look harder at the next fairs - there are a few around Xmas/New Year. The trouble is a stack of GBL locos awaiting attention....  And I've just dug my Mehano Alco SW-1 out of her drawer. Maybe I'll complete her repaint from 'Amtrak' to 'Southern Pacific' livery this time! There's a Mehano RS-2 to be repainted 'Santa Fe' too. Lots of stripes involved on both!

 

David

[fallen]

The Atlas models do crop up on eBay and occasionally in small ads. Some shops carry a few from time to time, our local model shop had a few last time I was in. I think the North Yorkshire Moors Railway shop usually has quite a few in stock although I have not been to look myself.

 

They are nice models and as Garry has shown can be motorised quite successfully. One of our local group members is currently motorising a Duchess.

 

Frank

[detheridge]

Hi Garry - just a thought, but Worsley Works do brass etched for Britannia valve gear:

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/3mm/3mm_Loco_Bits.htm

Might this be a way of improving your A4?

 

Best wishes,

David.

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi David,

 

Thanks for the link, I have e-mailed them to see if anything may be useful.  On Monday I did send off some drawings to have certain parts etched myself but little valve gear mainly new bogies and tender frames to fit the Atlas bases. 

 

The issue I am looking at working around is the support which is plastic obviously for insulating the valve gear but nicely sits in the Britannia body but is too high up for the A4, A3 etc.

 

I will see what they come back with.

 

Cheers

Garry

[NCB]

There's some pics of the Atlas models (but no stock) on the 3SMR web site:

http://www.3smr.co.uk/locosatlas.html

 

You may notice that there's also a Hall (Hogwarts Castle). This actually a Corgi model, but I suspect comes from the same factory as the Atlas models; it's of very similar construction. The proportions are very good. It would have the same problems to motorise. Don't know if the Triang Castle chassis could be used.

 

Nigel

[Golden Fleece 30]

Nigel,  From what I have read the Corgi models are 1:120 whereas the Atlas ones are 1:100 which is similar to the Tri-ang TT scale.  1:120 is more the continental size.  The Castle is not really of interest as Tri-ang have one and I suspect similar to the King in as much as the Tri-ang Castle chassis will not fit due to the motor/firebox shape issue. Tri-ang's Castle has an incorrect firebox being flat sided as opposed to the Belpaire shape.

 

The 9F and Britannia look poor representations and Tri-ang does have a Britannia.

 

The Corgi models look to be a far better model but too small to fit in with Tri-ang.

Edited November 12, 2016 by Golden Fleece 30

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here are some overlays I have had etched to fit over the Boxpok wheels on the A4 to now represent spokes. The paint has not quite dried hence the different black. Other etched bits to follow soon.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here are the Duchess and A4 tender etches along with the short M/N and Brit bogie etch. These are to take 2mm axles. The tender etches have a plate soldered in the back that can take the Tri-ang coupling. I have of these etched but need to make a form tool for the curved lip. The bogie has small protrusions to fold over the wheels once painted and the tender frames have a base plate that screws down over the main chassis.  The A4 here is the one fitted with the spoke overlays.

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is a new coupling I have had etched so I can replace any broken ones. They are in nickel silver so I do have to paint them. At the moment as I had no idea for rivets I modified it and am using wire through two down folds. Later I may be able to use a brass panel pin so only one fold as per Tri-ang. A little jig was made to form the curved lip in one piece so no soldering of it is required. The extra hole is just in case I want to do something else with it.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

The Standard 4 tank is now looking a lot better. I have replaced those over large front buffers and made a new rear buffer beam. I have had new front and rear pony truck and bogies etched to suit the Jackson wheels and close up the rear wheel from protruding past the buffer bean as before. Due to the angles and set of the new bogies with my new couplings I have left the hooks off for now. I have fitted the boiler wire handrails and all that it needs now is the motor overhauling and it should be ready for Saturdays show.

 

Extra added valve gear will have to wait.

 

Garry

[NCB]

Nigel,  From what I have read the Corgi models are 1:120 whereas the Atlas ones are 1:100 which is similar to the Tri-ang TT scale.  1:120 is more the continental size.  The Castle is not really of interest as Tri-ang have one and I suspect similar to the King in as much as the Tri-ang Castle chassis will not fit due to the motor/firebox shape issue. Tri-ang's Castle has an incorrect firebox being flat sided as opposed to the Belpaire shape.

 

The 9F and Britannia look poor representations and Tri-ang does have a Britannia.

 

The Corgi models look to be a far better model but too small to fit in with Tri-ang.

 

Nope, the current Corgi models are indeed 1:120, but the model of Hogwarts Castle (which is actually a Hall) wasn't part of the current series, and is in fact 1:100.

 

Wish the current Corgi models were 1:100! They are better than the Atlas models.

 

Nigel

[Il Grifone]

Here is a new coupling I have had etched so I can replace any broken ones. They are in nickel silver so I do have to paint them. At the moment as I had no idea for rivets I modified it and am using wire through two down folds. Later I may be able to use a brass panel pin so only one fold as per Tri-ang. A little jig was made to form the curved lip in one piece so no soldering of it is required. The extra hole is just in case I want to do something else with it.

 

Garry

 

Hi Garry,

 

What about a tiny screw and nut? These are available cheaply on eBay from China as spectacle spares in a convenient plastic case. Useful parts anyway!

I believe Peco still do their Anita plastic coupling, but the prices are a bit OTT these days.

 

David

[Golden Fleece 30]

Hi David,  I have a couple of the Anita couplings but not keen on them, they are a little smaller than the Tri-ang one, and, they are not as free moving.  I did think about a 10 BA nut and bolt but without a shoulder it could nip up too much although I could put a touch of glue on it.

 

I only got 8 etched on the sheet just in case they did not work but can get more later.  Unfortunately to save set up costs there are lots of other items on the sheet too.

[fallen]

Nice coupling Garry. The curved fold is very neat.

 

I have been experimenting with couplings too. I have some with the loop cut off the back beam and replaced with some 0.45mm wire, bent into three sides of a rectangle and soldered to the beam of the coupling, The lip on the loop stops the couplings riding over each other when being pushed. I have replaced this with a small vertical piece of the 0.45 mm wire soldered about a quarter of the way across. They look a lot neater than the normal ones.

 

I am also trying magnetic actuation with a piece of iron wire soldered to the back of the hook and bent down over the wheel axle. I use two magnets to uncouple the wagons, one for each coupling, spaced by the distance between the iron wires. So far it looks promising though not perfect yet.

 

Frank

Edited November 15, 2016 by fallen

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here is a view of the underneath of one of my A4 8 wheel tenders. These are now fitted with 12mm metal wheels and do actually travel around Tri-ang small radius curves very well sounding nice in the process. The tender here is on an angle which has resulted in all wheels looking off centre. Looking forward to Saturday now to give the A4's a good test. There is one more 8 wheel tender to do for my A3. 

 

Do I look at doing anymore, that is the question?

 

Garry

[NCB]

Here is a new coupling I have had etched so I can replace any broken ones. They are in nickel silver so I do have to paint them. At the moment as I had no idea for rivets I modified it and am using wire through two down folds. Later I may be able to use a brass panel pin so only one fold as per Tri-ang. A little jig was made to form the curved lip in one piece so no soldering of it is required. The extra hole is just in case I want to do something else with it.

 

Garry

 

Have you thought of chemically blackening the couplings? I've no experience of this, but B&B do some neat couplings which are blackened; think they're brass but the same method might work for n/s.

 

Nigel

[Golden Fleece 30]

I did once try Nigel but it never worked properly for me rubbing off easily.  I used the chemicals required as per demo at a show but did not get the same result at home, that was quite a few years ago so maybe things have changed now with better products.  For what I am doing I think these will suffice just being painted.  It was mainly a question of being able to get some replica Tri-ang ones to fit old and new stock when required.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

I recently acquired a reasonably priced Britannia which amongst a couple of other things had 2 very poorly and not required modified smoke deflectors. The plastic ones had been cut as per the photo and the piece glued back in at an angle tapering inwards. They had also been thinned down and when touched just came off. As I am very unlikely to ever see any replacements I thought about making a couple of brass ones this morning. Here they are but I have no thin wire to use as handrails so left unpainted. I had to "design" the mounting bracket which seems to have worked okay.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here we have the East Coast main line old with the new. The Deltic has had to go without any fuel tanks for now as I do not have time before the show on Saturday. It is a Resin body fitted with Tri-ang A1A-A1A bogies. The buffers were Tri-ang 00 ones filed oval. The numbers, crests and nameplates are again 00 scale ones as I don't know if any are available but these are easy to obtain.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

Here are some views of the layout during the show. Basically the layout performed quite well with just odd little issues with the points not always lining up otherwise very good. I particularly like the A4 with 5 Pullmans, my friend found he had one but unfortunately does not want to sell it. The video, to be put together later, shows 7 coaches on this train pulled by various locos.

 

Also a link to a YouTube clip from the show.

 

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

A little project I am working on is utilising a scrap Britannia body I have. 30 years ago I cut the cab off to try something which did not work so thought recently about putting it back together and making a 9F. The cab is now glued back on and you can see the old saw cut which needs filling later. I have drawn up the chassis for etching but wanted to check sizes so cut one out of Plasticard which seems to look fine. I am using a Tri-ang motor and wheels so accuracy might not be to scale but what looks right. The drawing is not finished as I am looking at a modified valve gear arrangement too. A different slide bar look will hopefully be on the cards as per the card one in view. There will only be two sets of flanged drivers as per the 00 model, 1st and 4th axle. Watch this space as they say. What I did find strange is one actually appeared on Ebay the night after I started drawing mine up.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

I have been practising with making bits of valve gear to add a little extra to some locos and will help me with the 9F project. Here is a Britannia and the 2-6-4 tank. Over time I will hopefully sort out other parts for the A3, A4, V2, Rebuilt Scot and Duchess etc.

 

 

Garry

 

[NCB]

I believe John Sutton, editor of the 3mm Society magazine Mixed Traffic, made a 9F out of a Brittania. Think he probably used the Branchlines 9F chassis.

 

Nigel