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Soldering 7mm Brass Bearings

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I'm curious about this flux as I have been using it on a kit I'm working on at the moment.

I'm used to a flux essentially drawing in the solder but this seems to be more like a coolant. Am I missing something with it?

 

 

Any flux will suck heat out whatever its on when it vaporises, the more there is the more it will cool everything. I use the BOGO flux with rosin-cored solder and use juuuust enough to coat the brass using a fine brush, and only where I want solder. This seems to be a good combination - the liquid (citric based?) flux attacks the oxidised brass then vaporises leaving a nice clean surface for the solder to attach to, wetting and flowing aided by the rosin flux. 

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How do you then clean off the rosin flux?

 

I've found that to be AWFUL to get off in the past.

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Yup its very stubborn stuff but if you use plenty of heat and keep the iron on the work the rosin burns off nicely just leaving a bit of powdery residue. As much heat, and as little solder as possible works for me :) As for cleanup I use foamy oven cleaner right at the end.

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Most iron tips are coated to stop any build up of crud,just use the sponge wetted that comes with most kits or buy on ebay,Incidentaly,have you seen the price of PB & brass these days.when you can buy a set of 10 Hakko tips for £3.95 or an Antex tip for around £4.I also build 5" gauge locomotives & non ferrous metals are very expensive!.

 

For flux on brass kits,i use Carrs yellow label,does the job ok.

 

                      Ray.

Edited by sagaguy

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