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7mm Pickups


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For the 7mm modellers out there what is better for picks?

 

1, Phosphor Bronze strip 2mm wide?

 

2, Nickel Silver Wire .45mm?

 

There will be no movement in the pick ups except for the rotation of the wheel, which would be best?

 

 

Pete

 

Hi Pete, have used both, but prefer the nickel silver wire as it seems easier to adjust. Both methods work for me. :lol:

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Thank you for that Nick

 

Does it work harden at all when bent or does it stay malleable?

 

Have you any pictures of how you use it as I would like to use it to keep the road wheels semi clean with the contact area on the wheel.

 

Pete

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Changing the topic slightly, I was wondering if anyone has experience of using the Gladiator Plunger Pickups. Are they more reliable / robust than Slaters version?

 

I'm just starting my second loco, a Connoisseur B12/3, and need to decide which pickups to use.

 

Any advice will be gratefully received. Thanks.

 

Peter

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Firstly. For my 7mm modelling I use phoshor bronze wire. I make a small loop to rub on the rear of the wheel flange. This is then self cleaning.

 

In answer to Gladiator pickups. I have to use these when building for Geoff, (Gladiator).

 

They are VERY robust. Adjustment of pressure on the wheels is very easy, unlike Slater's. The best thing about them, you can remove the plunger without removing the wheels or any dismantling of the pick unit.

 

Of course, there has to be a negative and this is they are bulky. I cannot fit them to all locos. Where this happens i fit Gladiatore where I can and the phoshor bronze on the wheels where I cannot. So the loco will have a mixture of pickups.

 

For my own models, when there is a tender I fit the pickups just to that. Sometimes Gladiator but mostly phoshor bronze.

 

Hope all this is helpful.

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Phosphor Bronze is the best pick up wire, nickel silver is all right, but wears a bit more, but Phosphor Bronze will age, and work harden. The contact tip will not wear as fast as nickel silver.

 

The other alternative is Beryllium Copper, even more springy, and it tarnishes less than phosphor bronze, supplies are slim, but old Post Office relays contact arms are made of it, and a couple of scrapped relays would supply a lifetimes modelling needs.

 

Some of the arms have contact dimples of pure platinum or palladium on the ends!!.... arrange to cut up the arm leaving them to bear on the wheel, perfection!!

 

With the Slaters pickup, and I assume the similar Gladiators, it could pay to add a soldered on tip to the face of the sprung pickup, made from say, beryllium or phosphor bronze, although without checking maybe the Gladiator already uses bronze.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Stephen.

 

And, ducking from the flack, the very best approach is no pickups, use a split frame!!!!

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Firstly. For my 7mm modelling I use phoshor bronze wire. I make a small loop to rub on the rear of the wheel flange. This is then self cleaning.

 

In answer to Gladiator pickups. I have to use these when building for Geoff, (Gladiator).

 

They are VERY robust. Adjustment of pressure on the wheels is very easy, unlike Slater's. The best thing about them, you can remove the plunger without removing the wheels or any dismantling of the pick unit.

 

Of course, there has to be a negative and this is they are bulky. I cannot fit them to all locos. Where this happens i fit Gladiatore where I can and the phoshor bronze on the wheels where I cannot. So the loco will have a mixture of pickups.

 

For my own models, when there is a tender I fit the pickups just to that. Sometimes Gladiator but mostly phoshor bronze.

 

Hope all this is helpful.

 

Jazz,

Thanks for that advice. I do have some Gladiator pickups and you are right they are easy to adjust and appear more robust than Slaters ones but space is definitely an issue as they are so much bigger.

 

I've just put the frame together of the B12 and may just be able to squeeze in the Gladiators on two axles but may have to resort to Slaters for the third.

 

I like the idea of collecting current off the tender wheels as well as it will improve current continuity. I'll have to see if that's possible on this kit.

 

Peter.

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