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OO Chivers Fine line SR D3 Paint on and decalled, weathering next.


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Hi All

 

I have decided to start this loco kit, this will be my first full Kit built Locomotive.  I have also been building (they are still in progress) the Airfix City of Truro with Branchlines chassis and motorising kit and this is almost ready for paint, and a SE Finecast chassis for my Wainright R1 0-6-0 which is the Hornby-dublo R-T-R model, the chassis is all finished and painted and I am detailing the rest of the loco.  What with other modelling hobbies and classic cars my kitbuilding is not that quick I am afraid.

 

Anyway the D3, this looks to be a lovely kit and I obtained it from a fellow RM Web'er Ray Kinsella from Austrailia who was Wainwright on this forum who kindly sold this to me when I put a wanted ad on this site on the old classified section. 

 

All I need now is a Wainright J Class 0-6-4 T and my SECR loco collection will be complete.

 

The model itself has an Etch brass chassis with additional etched items in Nickel silver and a white metal body. 

 

Work started on the chassis as usual.  This proved to be a trouble free build and went together well.  The gearbox is a very snug fit in between the frames. It all went together very straight thanks to the crew in spacers and only needed a very slight tweek once complete and now sits straight. 

 

The motor assembly (a DS10 motor) and gearing was also very simple to assemble and went together well.  I have spent about 6 hours on it so far and have bedded in the gears and assembled it to test and all ran well on the rolling road.

 

Can anyone tell me if I need to cut off the motor shaft forward of the worm gear or should I leave as is.

 

I also have to try to figure out the best way of doing the plunger pickups i.e. how to route them and attach to chassis, I was going to use PCB sleeper between the chassis rails and attachto this however it is how to get the springiness right.  If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be very grateful.

 

Thanks for looking

 

All the best
Chris

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Edited by bigbadbadge
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You will undoubtedly get people making snide remarks about the DS10 motor and urging you to use something else, but if treated properly they aren't at all bad even if they aren't quite up to the standards of Mashima's best.  One of the kindest things you can do to a DS10 is to provide an outrigger bearing beyond the worm to prevent the output shaft flailing around.  The motor bracket you are using does not appear to offer that option so you could either fabricate an outrigger bracket (not the easiest job in the world) or replace it with one that does offer the option. You should quite definitely not cut the shaft off until that side of things has been fully investigated. 

Similarly, the shaft at the other end of the motor can also do without any unnecessary length to encourage flailing around so that gap twixt flywheel and motor quite definitely needs to be closed.

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I built one of these in P4, as can be glimpsed in a recently posted view of my Fittleworth layout in the Pre-Grouping Layouts thread, and it is a lovely kit.  I think you will need to consider how the rear bogie is going to work, as I seem to recall it is just a cast metal item, with a loose fixing to the chassis. As can be seen from your photos of the chassis it is already unbalanced off the driving wheels, and the cast body is going to make matters worse, although you could replace the roof with plastic to help a bit. I can't recall the precise details but I tried to construct a compensated bogie, which is supported from the chassis from an extra cross-member, along the lines of a coach chassis.  You may lose a bit of weight on the drivers, but this should stop it rocking on the trailing driver.

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Hi Nick

 

Thanks for the heads up, The bogie in this one is an Etched item, I was wondering about the mounting of it and was looking to compensate too, I will also add some weight in the smokebox area to help.  I looked at the images of Fittleworth and saw the D3, lovely engine congratulations on such a fantastic finish.

Station building looks fab too.

 

Thanks and all the best
Chris

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Hi All

 

Further work on the D3, Chassis embellished with ash pan sides.  I tried making the plunger pickups up but could not get them to work very well and allow the wheels to turn.  I took out the springs and tried to make them spring on the wire itself but could not get them to function correctly.  Instead I glued a piece of copper clad sleeper on one of the spacers and made wire pickups for the insulated wheels.   I have made them suitable springy and they seem to work well.  I also made up the Bogie and this is now free running and looks good.

 

Work has also commenced on the footplate, it needs some minor tidying and fettling to fit bit not much.

 

Thanks for looking

 

All the bet
Chris

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Hi All

 

Further work, Now Chassis partly painted reassembled and running, went well in both directions.  Coupling rods now fixed and brake gear on although needs further tweeking. 

 

Body now coming along nicely although lots of further work required, Have had to thin down the footplate a bit to allow for the rod to clear, but quite chuffed so far, a couple more in progress shots

 

Thanks for looking

 

All the best

Chris

 

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  • 2 months later...
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Hi Chris,

 

I have found your D3 thread, and very nice it looks too!  As I said, I am unfamiliar with both the prototype and the kit, but it makes a very attractive model.

 

I totally agree with your thoughts on plunger pickups, I've never had any luck with them.  Once installed they are inaccessible for cleaning or adjustment, and have a tendency to act as brakes.

A loco chassis once came my way with the owner saying it didn't work at all.  The problem was seized plungers which I had no choice but to break out with pliers!  There was nothing else wrong, and once a set of NS wipers were installed it ran like a dream.

 

All the best,

Dave.

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  • 11 months later...

Hi all

 

I have managed some further work on the lovely D3.  I have been doing the handrail, pipework and the Pull/Push gear.  I have been able to progress with this thanks to Ernie (The Bigbee Line) who has kindly sent me some images of some Push/pull gear with some tank top images as I could not locate any (although these are from the M7 they are very helpful for the layout etc). 

Although I have made a start on the gear there is still a long way to go.  I have also done the Cab floor and what I can of the backhead from laminated plasticard and the rear bulkhead.

 

Thanks for looking

All the best
Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Gordon

 

Yes you are probably correct and I have to confess I had not thought of that at the time.  I am still very new to this loco building lark and so at the moment I tend to follow the instructions.  I also did not have any Mashima motors to use, I do now but will leave as is as disassembly now would be a nightmare I am sure.

 

All the best
Chris

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Hi All

 

A bit more progress, starting to add the smaller final bits now, lamp irons, smoke bod door handle, pipework etc: I cannot locate any decent side views of the right hand side of the loco to see what the arrangement is on the top side of the boiler between the dome and the cab which may hold things up a bit.

Will add the rear lamp irons tonight and het the brake standard in the cab.

 

Thanks for looking

All the best
Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

A D3 is a fine loco. All the Billinton elegance in an 0-4-4, instead of his more numerous radials. Less long-lived than the SECR H or LSWR M7 - and thus less well known, too, in our generation - but well worth modelling. And of course #363 'Goldsmid' was the LBSCR enginemen's cap-badge. This looks lovely.

Edited by Oldddudders
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Thanks Guys for your kind words

 

I have had a riveting evening tonight !!!  I have added some archers fine transfers around the smokebox and buffer beams.  Lamp irons now completed not much more to do now before some paint can go on.

 

Thanks for looking

Chris

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Hi All

 

Almost ready for paint, added the push/pull pipe work to buffer beams and sand pipes, also window bars on the rear cab windows (although I notice one has slipped).  The last piccie is the start of some gauges for the cab. 

 

Just got to sort out the window grill and add a couple of bits then it's ready for some paint.

 

This loco is going to be 32365 not long after nationalisation where it still wore the black paint with yellow sunshine Southern lettering and BR numbers.  The loco ran on the New Romney branchline, which is a fascinating line to me and one day I will model attempt to model New Romney station. One day !!!

 

Thanks for looking

 

All the best
Chris

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Almost ready for paint, added the push/pull pipe work to buffer beams and sand pipes, also window bars on the rear cab windows (although I notice one has slipped).  The last piccie is the start of some gauges for the cab. 

Chris

 

How did you attach the window bars to the cab, I looked at my SEF H & R1 and decided it might be a detail too far and I didn't want to juggle with the soldering iron?

 

Looking at your fine work I will need to rethink my strategy as with them it does make the model "right".

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HI Bryan

Thanks for your kind words.  The grills are not that bad to attach, I am using a Mainly trains etch and they are not correct as they are 6 bar and the D3s were 4 bar windows as far as I can tell.  They are stuck on with Cyanocrylate glue I use Expo thick which is also good for gap filling, I also use the thin stuff to flow into joints and they are both good.  I hope that helps.

 

Thanks to all for the likes, it is much appreciated.

 

I am finally ready for paint now.  I made up the gauges as per an article in the Detailing and Improving Ready To Run Steam Locomotives by George Dent, which has proved very useful (I particularly like his work on the Dapol/Hornby Terrier and intend to do the same conversion myself soon). Basically it is wire bent round in a circle (well sort of) and then solder is melted into the middle of the circle and they are filed flat.  Very basic but quite effective in the cab.  Whilst on the gauges, I am unable to tell if they are in the right place or not as I could not find any references, but I am not bothered as they will look good (to me anyway) when painted.

I have also corrected the rear window bars on the left rear window and added two hooks to the buffer beams I had missed off.  I am calling this done now and will start painting etc.

 

One thing I would like to add is that this Loco kit was sold to me by Ray Kinsella (Wainwright on the forum) who was very kind fella and helped me out with details for locos such as this and my L1.  He loved SECR and the Hastings area and so the D3, which ran in the locale was a bit of a favourite from what I gather, unfortunately Ray passed away last year and so did not get to see it built.  I hope that I can do him proud with this build when finished 

 

Thanks for looking

All the best
Chris

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Edited by bigbadbadge
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Chris

 

The gauges look good, the Drummond M7 has them grouped towards the centre of the cab as you have, the vacuum brake gauge on the drivers side, the boiler pressure gauge in the middle and train steam heat pipe pressure on the fireman's side.

Here is a picture of the fireman on 30053 at Swanage, not a Billinton loco, but of a similar vintage (picture Peter Milford): -

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Thanks guys for the kind comments and thanks Brian for the image that is reassuring and I hope they are similar.  I was going to paint however the moulded on cab handrails were bothering me so I have pared them away and have made plasticard top mounts and will hopefully get them tidied up tomorrow and add the new wire ones which should really help to finish it off. 

 

Thanks again

All the best
Chris

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