Jencaster - 1930's LMS OO Gauge Layout

[TerryD1471]

Just found this thread of yours, Ian. I like the sense of space you have managed to achieve in a 12 x 8 room and your scenic work is extremely pleasing. I shall follow your progress with interest.

 

Keep it up!

 

Terry D

[ianLMS]

Thank you Terry,

All kind comments are gratefully recieved.

The layout is 14ft along the back wall, reducing to 12' at the front with a depth of 8ft which helps to give the overall effect of open space. The room is 14 x 12 so I also have space for a very cluttered work area and storage units.

 

All of the fields over the hidden sidings are on hinges so I can lift them up to get access to the trackwork etc and there is a 5' x 2' access hole towards the back of the layout so I can access the out of reach areas. I am now starting to fill the access gap with a removable field (you can just make out the mock-up light green grass mat which I may/may not use) which will help even further.

 

I am also busy working on my first etched brass kit so layout work has been limited and slow going - the picture of the horsebox is where am I at so far. 

Edited April 23, 2018 by ianLMS

[richard.h]

Just finished reading through this. Its a lovely well built layout with some nice cameos which accurately portray the era you are depicting.

[ianLMS]

Thank you Richard. Kind comments very much appreciated. Still trying to find time to add more detail. I spend most of it cleaning the dust off, cleaning the track then get lost in running the trains for an hour or two. Currently distracted with building the etched LMS Horsebox kit I picked up at Easter. Hopefully that will get done in a week or two and I can get back to working on the layout!

 

Ian

[ianLMS]

Not much activity on the layout these last few weeks - real life has very rudely got in the way and re-decorating (almost renovating) the hall/kitchen/utility room & bathroom has taken priority. New flooring is hopefully being installed next week so I am in the final stages of finishing up the work in those rooms so I dont mess up the new floor. Then, the planets will re-align, order will be restored in the universe and I can get back to doing what's really important in life - playing with trains!!!

 

I have however, managed to get the horsebox to the stage of "primed" (Precision Paints Etch primer all over, then further priming with Citadel Black aerosol for the chassis, Citadel Grey for the roof and Citadel Red for the body). It now awaits a final coat of Railmatch LMS Crimson Lake via the airbrush before I can varnish it, put transfers on and then give a final coat of matt varnish.

 

No pics as at this stage as 50% of the horsebox is covered in masking tape so not much to see.

[ianLMS]

Here is a couple of pics of the almost finished horsbox (awaiting transfers, varnish and maybe a little weathering). The coupling is my scratchmade version of the O gauge "MagClick" and is made using 1.5mm brass tube, 2mm x 2mm magnet, .45mm brass rod for the hook and a tiny amount of Loctite "Metal" 5-min Epoxy. I will do a seperate thread for that as well.

 

Ian

 

[ianLMS]

As discussed in a recent thread about the standard tension lock coupling found on R-T-R loco's and rolling stock, I have been developing my own couplings for use on my OO gauge layout. I prefer to remove the tension locks and have been using 3-link and screw couplings. However, coupling up coaches with gangways in-between proved too difficult and a lot of faffing about. I am not a fan of Kadee's or other couplings on the market, and tested the use of brass wire (as mentioned in earlier posts) on several of my coaches, but it was cumbersome and had issues with uncoupling. 

 

After reading the topic on tension locks, someone mentioned a device called "Magclic". I was taken by the simplicity and neatness of the O gauge magnet coupling. So, I carried out a few experiments and so far, I may have found a solution for 4mm. I am also working on connecting the vac/steam heat hoses, but thats secondary to the main coupling system.

 

The coupling system is effective in both pulling and pushing mode and so far no issues with buffer locking or coming apart around tight curves (2nd radius). I have yet to really put its through the paces or test it on every vehicle, but the principle is there and minor tweaks will ensure its succesful. All items used were readily available off Ebay or internet shops when googling the parts. Preferred coupling hooks are brass ones from Slaters. I looped the hook through the hole. Just placing the loops on the hook isnt sufficent as the whole device jumps out of the hook. The magnet pull is strong but not enough to be an issue.

 

I have drawn up some simple pictures showing what I used to make them. The brass wire was used because it is non-ferrous and therefore is not attracted to the magnets causing all sorts of issues, and its easy to shape.

 

The O gauge version is available here: www.modelrailwaywagons.co.uk

 

Ian

Edited May 10, 2018 by ianLMS

[MikeH_83]

That's pretty neat and certainly doesn't look obtrusive.  I looked at doing the same awhile ago but I need hands free automatic uncoupling for computer control

[ianLMS]

Thats the only downside with this. They can uncouple by hand pulling the coaches apart. Still better than 3 link though as no tool is required! 

 

Edit - I can't help wondering though if an electromagnet in the sleeprs would be strong enough to pull the two magnets apart, without being too strong and up-ending the wagon/coach? One for the physic experts I guess!!

Edited May 11, 2018 by ianLMS

[ianLMS]

On a different note, I had some time last night and decided to make progress on filling in the access area gap towards the middle of the layout. The access area is used to enable me to clean track, recover uncoupled/derailed loco's and rolling stock and remove local wildlife that has decided to make the tunnel and hidden sidings their home. A previous comment suggested I hide the timber framework and after looking at a few photo's, I agree that it ruined the overall look of the layout.

 

The fields across the entire hillside/tunnel are on hinges so can be lifted up to gain access to the points and hidden sidings. The access area, if to be covered, also has to be removable so I can gain access. The left hand access area is a 6mm board of MDF which is hinged and will lift up from below. The right hand side is a grass mat from Javis stretched over a 15mm x 15mm timber frame and will lift out in one piece. I intend to cover the mat with static grasses and foilage to give it a better appearance. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Edwardian]

On my thread on the scalescenes garage, someone asked for more close up pics - here are a couple, plus some info on the stuff I used to detail the interior:

 

Items used for interior detail:

Wills SSAM102 Workshop Kit (incl lathe, drill, workbench, pullies, figures) - https://railsofsheff...-set-tools-etc-

Oxford Austin 7 - https://www.oxforddi...-black-76ass005

Scalelink Village Garage 1930's - 1950's Set (jacks, oil pump, tools) - http://www.scalelink...O_.html#aSLC127

Severn Models Workshop equipment set (hammers, saws, spanners, brooms, tool chest, ladders etc) - http://severnmodels....16/Products/D.6

Scale Model Scenery laser cut shelving (several racks) - https://www.scalemod...?v=7516fd43adaa

Others:

Signs from a very old Model Rail magazine insert

3mm LED lights and resistors (heat shrink tupe hides cables in far corner)

Plastruct stryrene H bar for the hoist and some chain I found

Bachmann dustbin

Modelscene bicycle (prefer the etched ones from Scalelink)

 

Superbly observed, Ian.

 

Always liked this particular feature.

[Edwardian]

Here is a couple of pics of the almost finished horsbox (awaiting transfers, varnish and maybe a little weathering). The coupling is my scratchmade version of the O gauge "MagClick" and is made using 1.5mm brass tube, 2mm x 2mm magnet, .45mm brass rod for the hook and a tiny amount of Loctite "Metal" 5-min Epoxy. I will do a seperate thread for that as well.

 

Ian

 

A very professional and tidy job on that horse box Ian - well done.

 

 

On a different note, I had some time last night and decided to make progress on filling in the access area gap towards the middle of the layout. The access area is used to enable me to clean track, recover uncoupled/derailed loco's and rolling stock and remove local wildlife that has decided to make the tunnel and hidden sidings their home. A previous comment suggested I hide the timber framework and after looking at a few photo's, I agree that it ruined the overall look of the layout.

 

The fields across the entire hillside/tunnel are on hinges so can be lifted up to gain access to the points and hidden sidings. The access area, if to be covered, also has to be removable so I can gain access. The left hand access area is a 6mm board of MDF which is hinged and will lift up from below. The right hand side is a grass mat from Javis stretched over a 15mm x 15mm timber frame and will lift out in one piece. I intend to cover the mat with static grasses and foilage to give it a better appearance. 

 

 

I think this is a very good move.  The long shot across to the church has always been an effective one, so filling in the missing landscape in between will really add to the sense of depth and of a railway in the landscape.

[ianLMS]

Thanks James - hopefully i can get it to blend in with the surroundings and make it look like I planned it all along!!

[MikeH_83]

Thats the only downside with this. They can uncouple by hand pulling the coaches apart. Still better than 3 link though as no tool is required! 

 

Edit - I can't help wondering though if an electromagnet in the sleeprs would be strong enough to pull the two magnets apart, without being too strong and up-ending the wagon/coach? One for the physic experts I guess!!

 

Could always try that just by temporarily putting a good magnet between the sleepers to see if it has any effect.  I don't know how strong electro magnets are compared to neodymium ones

[ianLMS]

Something else to experiment with. 

[ianLMS]

Further progress on the middle of the layout with the boards being covered with the grass mat and mixed static grasses being added for the first layer. Additional layers will be added once the glue has dried. I also added decals and weathered the horsebox.

 

 

[ianLMS]

Continuing with the infill, I have now added a second layer of static grass, and dressed it with various flocks and created the muddy path. Every now needs toning down and blening in which I will do over the next week or so.

 

 

[ianLMS]

I worked a little more last night on the infill areas, adding a bit more shading to the muddy tracks where the cattle/sheep come down off the hill to the gate, and i refreshed the fields above the area to try and blend everything in. Some bushes/shrubs etc will be added but as the left section hinges up and the right section is completely removable, anything I add will become easy targets for damage, so in this case, it will be limited. 

 

Over time i intend to refresh some of the trees over the the right side of the layout as they are looking tired and not that good anymore. 

 

Ian

[ianLMS]

Since my last post I have been carrying further experiments with the magnetic couplings and decided to slightly modify a couple of cattle wagons I had while fitting them. One is a Bachmann and the other is a Mainline (the wagon in the picture coupled to the loco is a Parkside kit I made).

 

I removed the original couplings and the moulded mounts under the chassis which allowed me to install the coupling hooks and make the wagons look a little more prototypical. I removed the plastic bars running across the openings and replaced them with 0.45mm brass rod. EDIT: I also replaced the buffers with ones from Lanarkshire Models. Then I weathered the wagons using some lifecolor weathering paints (mostly Frame Dirt & Roof Dirt) after fitting the couplings.

 

The couplings are working well, but still need a little more development to neaten them up, standardise them and make them more robust when pushing. Pulling is no issue, but any jerks can cause the wagons to part. 

I have found the 2mm x 2mm Neodymium magnets offer the best strength and size combination, with a 2.5mm - 3mm long brass tube (1.5mm dia). The wire for the hook is brass 0.45mm rod shaped into loops around a suitably sized file. Very cheap, but fiddly. There is a topic put up today on another magnetic coupling system using 3-links which I may also look at. 

 

The good thing with this set up is that it retains the screw-link/3-link hooks, and couples when the next vehicle is brought close so no need for wire on pen type tools. Uncoupling is done by simply pulling the two vehicles apart.

Edited June 6, 2018 by ianLMS

[ianLMS]

Its been a while since I posted on my layout thread as I have been a tad busy building my first loco kit. Its a Craftsman 1P 0-4-4T. It has taken around 3 months, but I have eventually finished it and can now use it on the layout! Here are a few shots of the building process and the finished result. South Eastern Finecast 4F next up, followed by a part built Model Loco (DJH) Armstrong-Whitworth Black 5, several Parkside wagons/vans, Ratio coaches and a Comet coach. It might be a while before I can get back to the layout!!!

[ianLMS]

Modelling continues, albeit at a relatively slow pace. Progress however has been made. 

 

Latest projects includes the completion of the SE Finecast 4F, and am now getting ready to paint my Comet LMS Stove R brake coach. Picture of the 4F below, but the Comet coach will have to wait - currently in primer phase, with Railmatch Crimson Lake top coat going on today/tomorrow if I get tim and then weathering.

 

In between the coats of paint drying I am also replacing my ADS-8FX's with the ADS-8SX's. I recently purchased 2 more ADS-8SX's from Coastal DCC and sold off my ADS-8FX's for a fair price. By linking up points, I have managed to reduce the 8-ways to 3 instead of 4, so I have room on the board for some other trickery - not sure what yet though!

 

Enjoyed the Ch 5 programme on Friday night - looking forward to next weeks programme to see what they come up with!

 

 

[Pigwife007]

Hi Ian

Just read from start to finish....... Very detailed layout.

In particular I like the cattle pens and think your coupling idea is superb and very skill full

Thanks for sharing

Dan

[ianLMS]

Hi Ian

Just read from start to finish....... Very detailed layout.

In particular I like the cattle pens and think your coupling idea is superb and very skill full

Thanks for sharing

Dan

Thanks for that Dan - I have been neglecting the layout lately due to my new found interest/confidence in building loco/coach/wagon kits, however, my to-do box will run out soon and I intend to get back to adding more detail, renewing some of the trees that are looking a bit tired, adding signals and may actually have chance to run a few trains!!! I also may look at point rodding, but we will see. 

[ianLMS]

Here is the latest addition to the layout. A Comet Stove R kit I have just finished building. A little dissappointed with the roof etc, but again, I am fairly happy with the outcome. Painted with my airbrush (Sparmax MAX 4), lined using HMRS pressfix sheets. Glazing is real glass microscope slide covers cut with a diamond cutting tool. Not easy, very fiddly but I think they look good. Superglue was not the right adhesive to use, so in future projects I will stick to Micro kristal-klear.

 

Now working on a Severn Models etched brass stables kit, and getting ready to paint a Parkside CCT and Fish Van I constructed over the last few days while off sick!

Edited October 26, 2018 by ianLMS

[OnTheBranchline]

I worked a little more last night on the infill areas, adding a bit more shading to the muddy tracks where the cattle/sheep come down off the hill to the gate, and i refreshed the fields above the area to try and blend everything in. Some bushes/shrubs etc will be added but as the left section hinges up and the right section is completely removable, anything I add will become easy targets for damage, so in this case, it will be limited. 

 

Over time i intend to refresh some of the trees over the the right side of the layout as they are looking tired and not that good anymore. 

 

Ian

 

Er, bit of an accident in the yard? Was there confusion and delay?