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Operating hand built EM Gauge Points


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Hi all, I am now at the point where I have laid all stock rails and "point noses" and wish to add my point blades and "driving" mechanism in situ. After lots of research I have chosen to use "Megapoint" controllers that use micro model aircraft servos mounted below the baseboard.

I am now struggling to decide on how to connect the servo to the point blades. The traditional copper clad tie bar soldered to the point blades would be fine but I read a lot about the "twisting" effect and failure of the soldered joints.

Ideally I would like to mount these servos below baseboard.

Please remember I am building these points in Situ (on Templot plan) with all noses and stock rails already in place.

Thanks.

Tony E

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Copper clad is fine if you are happy with the appearance, but not soldered direct to the point blades, drill holes in the copperclad and insert pins so the head is under the copperclad and the pin is then turned at 90 degrees to lie along the web of the rail, cut off at about 4mm long and solder the pin into the web. You will need a third hole for a drive wire from the servo.

A simple servo mounting shown here using a bit of aluminium angle. https://youtu.be/zcKRknQ2Hew

Regards

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I use C&L 0.6mm copper clad strip turned on its side as a stretcher bar, connecting it to each blade with a piece of 10thou guitar string with two 90 degree bends.

 

I have found that assembly is reliable and flexible.

 

I connect to the servo using an omega loop made from 10 thou guitar string.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

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Hi Tony

 

You can hide the mechanism underneath the baseboard by using a crank or servo horn with an operating wire up through a slot.

 

The first picture shows this method with a Fulgurex motor:

 

post-5673-0-60733900-1448200214.jpg

 

The second picture is from a different layout but shows how inconspicuous the arrangement can be:

 

post-5673-0-22270400-1448200301.jpg

 

The second picture also shows Ambis stretcher bars on O gauge track.  These are essentially thin copperclad strip on edge fastened to the switch blades with etched brackets.  These are solid and use the flex in the rail for movement.  A similar setup to that described by Gordon A in his post.

 

Regards.

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Thanks guys, I am in posesion of Ambis engineering etchings so will include in the final product, but don't forget I am working in 4mm ft so very fine! and therefore cosmetic I suspect.

 

Really like how inconspicuous  the tie bars look though.

 

Will try the soldered pin to copper clad sleeper on my test track, but I am sure I will have fun doing this with stock rails and blades already in place, but by definition blades not soldered to tie bar so no "twisting" movement just rotating pin, nice.

 

Favour the look of the "on its side" tie bar though.

 

Gordon A  do you have a photograph of your method please.

 

BTW  if anyone is going to the EM gauge AGM after the Warley Exhibition on Sunday I will be there and perhaps we could meet and discuss, or even just meet at Warley on the Sunday.

 

T

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Tony,

 

I hope the attached pictures are self explanatory.

 

 

post-7071-0-65783100-1448219665.jpg

 

post-7071-0-44083100-1448219702.jpg

 

post-7071-0-42680300-1448219756.jpg

 

I find the advantage of this system is that it easy to adjust after installation.

 

 

The rail is phosphor bronze.

 

The soldering could be tidier.

 

Gordon A

Bristol

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I am in posesion of Ambis engineering etchings so will include in the final product, but don't forget I am working in 4mm ft so very fine! and therefore cosmetic I suspect.

This shows an Ambis stretcher set up for trial.

https://youtu.be/tUORPuJffBU

I decided life was to short to use them on the layout though, with 40 ends to fit. I have a mix in use, Studiolith, Exactoscale, P4 track company and home made specials.

Regards

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