Sutton's Locomotive Works class 24

[sulzer71]

33 minutes ago, GordonC said:

 

I think you just had to phone them up. I thought there was meant to be a new website a while ago, but I haven't checked myself

https://railexclusive.com/ is the new website , no further announcements as yet

[zr2498]

Any news out there on when the new Class 24 offerings will be on the web site?

[stovepipe]

Nothing since the summer update on 3 Aug. In that update, a further update on the Highland 24s ‘in a few weeks’ was mentioned. I guess we are still in that time frame!

[zr2498]

'Perhaps we will get a Christmas message'

[johndon]

Two SLW 24s working hard:

 

 

[zr2498]

41 minutes ago, johndon said:

Two SLW 24s working hard:

 

 

This is exactly what I am wishing SLW will announce. There was some discussion about a pair of Tyne Dock 24's.

Perhaps a back up plan. How easy to convert the latest Bachmann class 24 to Tyne Dock?

[johndon]

The 24s have had the SLW Tyne Dock conversions fitted and are correct for the period, the conversion was easy to fit but as and when an out of the box Tyne Dock 24 comes along I'd certainly consider another pair.
 

I did once start a conversion of the Bachmann version and it needs quite a bit of work on the roof especially as well as the under frame tanks. 
 

John

Edited December 15, 2021 by johndon

[zr2498]

8 hours ago, johndon said:

The 24s have had the SLW Tyne Dock conversions fitted and are correct for the period, the conversion was easy to fit but as and when an out of the box Tyne Dock 24 comes along I'd certainly consider another pair.
 

I did once start a conversion of the Bachmann version and it needs quite a bit of work on the roof especially as well as the under frame tanks. 
 

John

Thanks John

I reckon there would be a high demand, especially as KR models are about to deliver the iron ore wagons. I did follow your thread:

That was a lot of work on the body but no views of the under frame tank modifications. You finally showed the superb SLW pair after renumber and weathering. My preferred route, and I have the Dave Alexander / Dave Bradwell kits to build which is the plan.

Cheers

Dave

 

[johndon]

1 hour ago, zr2498 said:

That was a lot of work on the body but no views of the under frame tank modifications. You finally showed the superb SLW pair after renumber and weathering. My preferred route, and I have the Dave Alexander / Dave Bradwell kits to build which is the plan.

 

 

Once the SLW models came along, I abandoned the Bachmann 24 conversion and sold all my other Bachmann 24s.  I still have it complete with Penbits sprung chassis but it is no comparison to the SLW version...

Edited December 16, 2021 by johndon

[Kylestrome]

I see people on this thread have managed to remove the body from the chassis. Is there an easy way of doing this without doing any damage? If it is clipped on, then my example is very tight.

 

I would be glad of any helpful tips.

 

David

[pauliebanger]

Hi David,

 

The SLW Class 24 body is a tight fit - that's to prevent rattling and buzzing when the sound is playing. Remember this model was designed to be sound fitted from its inception. The best way I have found to remove the body from Class 24 is to temporarlily refit it to the plinth it arrives with using the two screws.

 

This allows you to handle the model without damaging the delicate areas around the tanks. The screws fix the chassis to the plinth, (which can be clamped down if necessary) allowing the lower body edges to be gently prised outwards to release the clips then the body will lift off vertically.

 

Best regards,

 

Paul

 

Edited January 3, 2022 by pauliebanger

[sulzer71]

@Kylestrome, as @pauliebanger mentioned , I found it easiest removing the body whilst the loco is still screwed to the plinth just make sure you unplug the little jumper cables from the receptacles on the cab corners before pulling the body off

[SHerr]

I have a couple of questions if anyone has any experience please? I have a 24/1 on order already;

 

1. has anyone re-numbered a SLW class 24 and if so how easy do the numbers come off? I find a lot of recent Bachmann and even Heljan diesel numbers come off with very light stretching with either finger nail or fine end of wire leaving no visible signs which is excellent when dealing with an expensive loco (especially having gone through the paint on some older Heljan locos with low quants of thinner.

 

I might accidentally order another one if it’s low risk of damage.

 

2. when I ordered my class 24/1 I spoke to Phillip Sutton re DCC and was initially surprised they didn’t offer a standard DCC fitted but no sound option. Phillip explained that due to the way you drive the loco there would have been very little difference in price between DCC and DCC Sound. Has anyone retro fitted a standard decoder and if so what is the impact? Do you loose lots of functions (ie lighting) or just drives more like a normal DCC product from elsewhere?

 

Many Thanks in advance, I’ve currently ordered as DC but really need DCC so tying to work out whether to go sound as I will then have to fit it to 10-15 other locos!

[johndon]

I’ve renumbered an SLW 24 using TCut to remove the numbers with no issues. 

 

Here's D5107 renumbered as D5109 - my original plan was to remove just the last digit and replace it but I couldn't find any decals that exactly matched the SLW numbers so the whole number was replaced:

 

Edited January 7, 2022 by johndon

[SRman]

2 hours ago, johndon said:

I’ve renumbered an SLW 24 using TCut to remove the numbers with no issues. 

 

Ditto here.

D5017 started off as D5016 - 5016 spent only a few months on the Southern Region, whereas 5017 spent around three years, hence my choice to renumber. SLW later released another model as D5017 anyway! 
 

[Kaput]

15 hours ago, SHerr said:

 

2. when I ordered my class 24/1 I spoke to Phillip Sutton re DCC and was initially surprised they didn’t offer a standard DCC fitted but no sound option. Phillip explained that due to the way you drive the loco there would have been very little difference in price between DCC and DCC Sound. Has anyone retro fitted a standard decoder and if so what is the impact? Do you loose lots of functions (ie lighting) or just drives more like a normal DCC product from elsewhere?

 

Many Thanks in advance, I’ve currently ordered as DC but really need DCC so tying to work out whether to go sound as I will then have to fit it to 10-15 other locos!

 

No reason it shouldn't work with a non sound decoder fitted. The only possible issue (I think) is the sound decoder is a special version with an extra function output which might mean the lights have issues, not sure though.

 

I can say the sound version is entirely worth it.

[SHerr]

4 hours ago, Kaput said:

 

No reason it shouldn't work with a non sound decoder fitted. The only possible issue (I think) is the sound decoder is a special version with an extra function output which might mean the lights have issues, not sure though.

 

I can say the sound version is entirely worth it.

Thanks, Phillip explained it was a special decoder mainly describing the extra features being around how you drive the loco. It’s the lightning I was looking for some feedback on as if they won’t work I definitely won’t be doing it as it’s the headlight fitted 24/1 I have ordered.

[AY Mod]

Quote

I have asked the administrator if my membership class allows me to place a for sale advert for SLW ...  but as yet have not received a response

 

I didn't receive any request but the answer would be a no.

[Chilly]

Just wondering if they will do an all green skinhead one with exposed sole bars similar to that running on NYMR  

[MatthewCarty]

On 06/01/2022 at 19:52, SHerr said:

I have a couple of questions if anyone has any experience please? I have a 24/1 on order already;

 

1. has anyone re-numbered a SLW class 24 and if so how easy do the numbers come off? I find a lot of recent Bachmann and even Heljan diesel numbers come off with very light stretching with either finger nail or fine end of wire leaving no visible signs which is excellent when dealing with an expensive loco (especially having gone through the paint on some older Heljan locos with low quants of thinner.

 

I might accidentally order another one if it’s low risk of damage.

 

2. when I ordered my class 24/1 I spoke to Phillip Sutton re DCC and was initially surprised they didn’t offer a standard DCC fitted but no sound option. Phillip explained that due to the way you drive the loco there would have been very little difference in price between DCC and DCC Sound. Has anyone retro fitted a standard decoder and if so what is the impact? Do you loose lots of functions (ie lighting) or just drives more like a normal DCC product from elsewhere?

 

Many Thanks in advance, I’ve currently ordered as DC but really need DCC so tying to work out whether to go sound as I will then have to fit it to 10-15 other locos!

I have fitted a standard plux22 DCC decoder to my two. The only catch is that a standard plux22 decoder only has 21 pins so without making a simple mod you can't get one of the lighting functions to work (from memory it might be the Cab interior at 1 end). The SLW sound chips are a special 22 pin version which allows for this extra function. From memory the change is a simple reversible change of just moving the connection onto an alternative place non-used place.

 

I can't rate mine highly enough with the only weakness being the nem coupling design which for some reason can start to sag, but again this can be fixed quite easily.

[SHerr]

1 hour ago, MatthewCarty said:

I have fitted a standard plux22 DCC decoder to my two. The only catch is that a standard plux22 decoder only has 21 pins so without making a simple mod you can't get one of the lighting functions to work (from memory it might be the Cab interior at 1 end). The SLW sound chips are a special 22 pin version which allows for this extra function. From memory the change is a simple reversible change of just moving the connection onto an alternative place non-used place.

 

I can't rate mine highly enough with the only weakness being the nem coupling design which for some reason can start to sag, but again this can be fixed quite easily.

Thanks that’s brilliant, just what I wanted to know.

[sulzer71]

Has anyone here been brave enough to completely strip a Suttons 24 of its paint? If so what did you use ? , my preferred method is 99.9% IPA but not sure how the Suttons Body reacts to that

 

Tia

[GordonC]

1 hour ago, sulzer71 said:

Has anyone here been brave enough to completely strip a Suttons 24 of its paint? If so what did you use ? , my preferred method is 99.9% IPA but not sure how the Suttons Body reacts to that

 

Tia

 

probably worth contacting SLW, they may know and be able to advise

[zr2498]

On 06/01/2022 at 21:38, johndon said:

I’ve renumbered an SLW 24 using TCut to remove the numbers with no issues. 

 

Here's D5107 renumbered as D5109 - my original plan was to remove just the last digit and replace it but I couldn't find any decals that exactly matched the SLW numbers so the whole number was replaced:

 

Looking great, but what ever happened to the possible offering of a new Tyne Dock pair from SLW. I have a pair of new tooling Bachmanns ready for a major cut, carve and paint job just in case but would rather go the SLW route. All gone quiet but I guess the slow boat from china is going even slower.  

[Roy Langridge]

3 minutes ago, zr2498 said:

Looking great, but what ever happened to the possible offering of a new Tyne Dock pair from SLW. I have a pair of new tooling Bachmanns ready for a major cut, carve and paint job just in case but would rather go the SLW route. All gone quiet but I guess the slow boat from china is going even slower.  

 

I think the problem is more getting them ready to get on a slow boat at the moment. Oh, and then finding a slow boat...

Roy