81A Oldoak Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 As indicated on my Cwm Bach forum, I have started building the Dragon Models kt of the Rhymney Railway R class 0-6-2 tank locomotive. They were introduced into traffic in 1907 and designed by the Rhymney's CME Hurry Riches. There were initially three locos in the class augmented to five in 1909, all built by Robert Stephenson. In 1921 another four were built by Hudswell Clarke and six by Beyer Peacock. Following the grouping some were rebuilt by the GWR with tapered boilers and other GWR features and looked very similar to the GWR's own 56XX class of 0-6-2T locomotives, which was derived from the similar M Class 0-6-2T. The last member of the R class survived in service until 1957. My model will be based on GWR/BR number 38, which retained its parallel boiler,but acquired some GWR fittings. Livery will be plain black, but I am as yet undecided about whether to use the "Ferret and Dartboard" crest or, for a change, plain white Gil Sans lettering "BRITISH RAILWAYS". Fortunately, I am a long way off that decision. The Dragon Models kit comes in an enormous box. The chassis is etched nickelsilver and the superstructure is etched brass. The boiler and smoke box are pre-rolled with an etched wrapper for the smokebox. . Fittings and fixtures are a mixture of brass and whitemetal castings. The kit also includes brass wire of various diameters, nuts and bolts and washers and turned brass handrail knobs and washout plugs. To complete the kit I bought Slater's wheels and screw couplings. From stock I have plunger pick-ups, but may make wire pick-ups. The loco will be driven by a Canon/ABC motor/gearbox. I am thoroughly familiar with the instructions having bought the kit some four years ago. So now it is time to make a start. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share Posted November 30, 2015 So here we go. I prefer to fit my locomotives with 3-point beam compensation. It improves traction, gives a smoother ride and provides more reliable current collection. And this is the first difficulty. The loco will be powered on the rear driving axle, but the chassis frames have cut-outs between the leading and centre axles where the compensating beam's axle would usually be placed. The instructions acknowledge this problem and Chris Basten's suggestion is to open out the bearing holes vertically below the centre line to allow the wheels to float down as required. The chassis is half-etched to make this easier as can be seen on one of the frames in the second photograph. This didn't suit my preference so I made up a beam that could be mounted above the appertures, but still allow full compensation. I made the beam from surplus nickelsilver strip from the chassis etching. I soldered two pieces face-to-face to give a good thickness and measured them for cutting. Cutting out the beam with a saw was laborious and cost at least six blades. The finished article looks a little rough, but it works, which is all that matters. I had hoped to get the chassis rolling today, but the job took longer than expected and I was conscripted by the memsahib for leaf clearance duties all morning. I don't expect to make much more progress this week as the Minerva Pecketts have arrived at Heathrow and all going well will be delivered to Wales tomorrow. Chris Basten and I will then check the models, prepare some orders and pack a load for Reading on Saturday, where I hopee to see some of you (ideally with small portraits of our sovereign lady). Regards, Chris 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 There are Pecketts in South Wales. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Are you trying to start something similar to Black Friday up in the valleys? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 7, 2015 Author Share Posted December 7, 2015 I managed to get away from the Pecketts for a couple of hours today and do some work on the Rhymney R. I fitted the hornblocks and home-made compensation beam. The former are tack soldered pro tem until I have time to test the chassis with the coupling rods fitted. It rolls well without the rods. Next, I have to do some reinsurance work over the next couple of days, which will include identifying which of our clients have been affected by the flooding in the North West. Regards, Chris 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 I now have a rolling chassis. A very slight bind in 0-4-0 mode was corrected with a very slight reaming of the holes in the coupling rods. Next job is to rig and test the motor and gearbox. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 More progress on my Dragon Models Rhymney R 0-6-2T. I fitted the ABC/Canon last night and apart from a slight tweak on the front axle she runs as sweetly as a sewing mchine. The lumps of lead are laid loosely to provide ballast on the rolling road, which is a superbly engineered item from Dragon Models. I have tried those rolling road efforts that are clipped to a length of track, but they are very inferior compared with this one. It's not cheap, but one does get ahat one pays for. I caan now crack on with the radial axle and cosmetic chassis features. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 While Heather Kavanagh carries on with the heavy work on my 42XX, I have been beavering away on the Rhymney beastie. Latest progress shows the radial axle truck's fabrication and installation. I modified slightly the construction of the truck. The instructions suggest soldering the 0.9mm wire directly to a second nut on the 12BA bolt that acts as the pivot. My solution was to use some brass tube with a suitable internal diameter and to tap it to 12BA and screw it on to the bolt. The brass rod was then soldered into a smaller diameter length of brass tube and this was fitted telescopically into the tube screwed to the bolt. The result is neat and strong. THe two small upright tabs are for the optional fitting of compression springs to allow more refined swing control and I will so fit the chassis. The next task is to fit the brake gear followed by a trip to the paint shop and finally the fitting of current collection apparatus. As an aside, learning how to tap a hole for a screw thread opens a whole new vista of opportunities and solutions. I still get a small burst of satisfaction when it works. Regards, Chris PS I hope I'm not the only person who gets really annoyed by the speed and ease with which Slater's wheels rust. I use a blend of paraffin and oil to try to keep the ferrous oxide at bay, but it makes for messy handling. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 Chris My recommendation with wheels is to thoroughly clean, if necessary polish the backs down flat so the rim and brass boss are in the same plane, wash in IPA to degrease, then dunk in diluted gun blue/metal black solution, wash, dry, and oil with Wahl clipper oil (as you may recall, I'm bearded*, you need this stuff around the house or your clippers don't.) I have actually checked the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for said oil, and it is basically, light mineral oil. Obviously other suppliers exist, but it's readily available, reasonably priced and handily packaged. And, it stops the £&%{ wheels rusting. Usual disclaimers of course. Wipe off any excess on a bit of kitchen roll, and job done. Avoid soldering fluxes near your wheels. Particularly, if you then boil the flux with your soldering iron, it seems the noxious vapours promptly condense on the cold steel, and thus help you ride the big snake back to square one. HTH Simon * I suppose the avatar is a bit of a give-away... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 I attached the brake gear and assembled the footplate today. I am making new brake shoes from plasticard to replace the whitemetal castings to eliminate the risk of short circuits as the compensated front and middle axles rise and fall. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 After returning from the latest Star Wars film (a welcome return to the style of the original following the disastrous so-called prequels), I fitted balance weights to the wheels on the Rhymney R and finsished the painting. The splashers have been added to the footplate. I still need to install electrical pick-ups, which will be scrapers of some sort. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Chris. Are you trying to keep up with Jinty!!! Your Beastie is certainly moving along at a really fast pace. Great work - look forward to seeing it finished next week lol!! Rod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Chris. Are you trying to keep up with Jinty!!! Your Beastie is certainly moving along at a really fast pace. Great work - look forward to seeing it finished next week lol!! Rod Thanks Rod. Standby for the latest sitrep. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 I have managed to get a bit of time in on the Welsh Beastie aka Rhymney R Class 0-6-2T. The cab, bunker and tank sides are in position as the superstructure rises from the footplate and she starts to look like a locomotive. I used a small steel square and earth magnets to hold the various parts in place. I got the idea from a recent post by Chaz Harrison in his Dock Green opus. It is so simple and effective with accurate assembly and no burnt fingers and concomitant profanity and oath muttering. We're busy preparing for a New Year's Eve party at our place, but hopefully I can get back to it on Friday afternoon. My aim by Monday is to get the basic superstructure complete with firebox, boiler and smokebox. I say hopefully because fabricating boilers is one of my least favourite tasks. I have taken a photo alongside a Minera Peckett for size comparison. Ragareds, Chris 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Chris My recommendations regarding avoiding fluxes and Slaters wheels also apply to your dainty set square - do give it a wash, dry and wipe of oil after soldering near it! (The metal black is optional!) Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I've made some good progress on the Beastie over the past of couple of days in between family hosting duties and other seasonal distractions. I hate making boilers; there really is nothing to more to add to that statement. I use glavanised garden wire to hold everything in place, but there seems to be no easy way to do this task in the absence of a third hand with opposing thumb and fingers. The firebox is the usual wrap-around job. I solder right-angle brackets made from scrap brass strip from the sprues in the kit to strengthen the joints between the top and ends of the firebox before rolling to shape. It's all coming together rather nicely and I always look forward to the blessed moment when the soldering is finished and the detailing can start. There will be a bit of hiatus now as work in London and elsewhere will be busy over January as we complete the annual reinsurance renewal process. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 That looks a perfectly fine job to me, Chris; well done! My only suggestion re the making of boilers is to use Jubilee clips instead of the iron wire, which makes it all a bit more minutely adjustable. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Oh, how I would love one of these in OO, maybe as a body-only kit to fit the Bachmann 56xx chassis. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 That looks a perfectly fine job to me, Chris; well done! My only suggestion re the making of boilers is to use Jubilee clips instead of the iron wire, which makes it all a bit more minutely adjustable. David Now why didn't I think of that? Great idea David and thank you for the praise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Oh, how I would love one of these in OO, maybe as a body-only kit to fit the Bachmann 56xx chassis. As it happens I have one. This is the old Nu-Cast kit aboard a modified Bachmann 57XX/8750 chassis. The Bachmann 56XX chassis didn't fit. I've been toying with the idea of selling for ages, but I'm still not sure. High winds at Abersoch appear to have blown over the platform canopy. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 26, 2020 Share Posted February 26, 2020 Chris Did you ever finish this R class? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 26, 2020 Author Share Posted February 26, 2020 Peter, I'm afraid it's still languishing uncompleted in its box. I took it out the other day and really should press on as I am almost at that stage when all of the really boring soldering is finished and its just a matter of sticking castings on. Perhaps your message will prompt me to get a move on. Regards, Chris 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Thanks Chris I asked because I'm rebuilding one I bought from GOG E&T. Truth is if you had finished I was going to do a bit of cribbing. Here's mine so far. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted February 28, 2020 Author Share Posted February 28, 2020 On 27/02/2020 at 02:40, N15class said: Thanks Chris I asked because I'm rebuilding one I bought from GOG E&T. Truth is if you had finished I was going to do a bit of cribbing. Here's mine so far. Looks like good progress, Peter. I have attached the handrails and the main soldering jobs remaining are the cab roof, footplate steps and lamp irons. I'll try to do some more next week, but I have a queue of weathering commissions to finish and then preparation for the GOG Spring Show at Kettering. Regards, Chris 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Well the Welsh Beastie has reached Cwm Bach on a test run following a general overhaul at Caerphilly works. This Rhymney R Class 0-6-2T kit was bought from Dragon Models at the Southampton MRS show in 2013 and has been under construction intermittently ever since. It is powered by an ABC Canon motor and gearbox. The chassis is fitted with beam compensation. The remaining tasks are to install DCC equipment and, of course, weathering. Regards, Chris K 12 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now