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Hi all. 

 

Adding a little bit of detail adding to the wheel drop. The ladder is Ratio, with some fine wire for supports. The low platform in this area has also been added. 

 

post-1467-0-33649700-1538413355_thumb.jpg

 

Tom. 

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Thanks Steve.

 

I will, also the bricks around the vent & across the top of the doorway. I just need to find a method I’m happy with first!

 

Tom.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Tom, Really enjoy seeing your project develop.

I am very curious about the 3D printed Palvan. I've been in doubt of getting a few of these for a while, but according to the description on Shapeways, they are 1:148 (continental N-scale) and I am a bit worried that they look odd.
How do you think they compare to 1:160 vans? I'd love to see a photo if at all possible of two vans together.

 

Happy modelling!

Ed

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1:148 is British N scale (2 and a bit mm to the foot). 1:160 is the European and American scale, which makes 9mm gauge much nearer correct than British N. For British N scale, the gauge should be nearer 9.7mm.

 

2mmFS is 1:152 (exactly 2mm to the foot) with a gauge of 9.42mm which is correct for the scale.

 

Japanese N scale is 1:150, but that is because most Japanese railways are narrow gauge, so it results in things being more in proportion. It is a compromise, though, as both narrow and standard gauge models use the same 9mm gauge track.

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Hello Tom, Really enjoy seeing your project develop.

I am very curious about the 3D printed Palvan. I've been in doubt of getting a few of these for a while, but according to the description on Shapeways, they are 1:148 (continental N-scale) and I am a bit worried that they look odd.

How do you think they compare to 1:160 vans? I'd love to see a photo if at all possible of two vans together.

 

Happy modelling!

Ed

Hi Ed.

 

Ian has described the scales perfectly above. I would imagine if you are running 2mm finescale stock with the N Gauge Palvans they might look a little on the tubby side, but I’d you have a mix of re-wheeled ready to run wagons & kit built then the slight difference in scale probably wouldn’t be noticeable.

 

Tom.

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Seems like I've muddled up my scales.. I know perfectly well that 1:148 is British N-scale, for some reason seeing that the 3D prints come from Holland I assumes that it was the continental scale. That's great news (not that I am going mad and mixing things up, but the other part!)! This one is definitely on my wish list again!

 

I don't model in 2mm finescale, just N gauge with mainly RTR. I don't think I have the skill (yet) to become a 2mm purist!

 

Thanks for your replies!

Ed

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  • 1 year later...

The overall effect is brilliant. Too often model lighting is far too bright but you've carefully considered the light output to get a look that feels right. One thing I noticed that jarred: that man's back (with the yellow shirt) looks painful. 

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4 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

The overall effect is brilliant. Too often model lighting is far too bright but you've carefully considered the light output to get a look that feels right. One thing I noticed that jarred: that man's back (with the yellow shirt) looks painful. 

 

Thanks Richard. I've deliberately tried to keep the light levels low so they don't overpower everything. I hadn't noticed the the poor chap with the dodgy back, best get him booked in for some corrective surgery asap!

 

Tom,  

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The past couple of weekends of attrocious weather have given me time to work on a couple of areas of the layout. 

 

The first is the small group of buildings atop the embankment at Ropley which I believe are used by the building dept. I'd originally shaped the top of the embankment into the rough shape of the land in that area but having started to plan out where the buildings should go it became clear that it would be best to build this section off the layout in a similar way to the collection of buildings at the front of the layout. 

 

Progress so far:

 

IMG_2604.jpeg.ee94f41a0f6ec90c13faa9d154c81135.jpeg

 

IMG_2601.jpeg.3822ae5f85ca1923c0732100840802e3.jpeg

 

And the actual location for reference. Still a fair bit of work to do, even though this is only a small section of the layout!

 

CU0J2106.jpeg.727564ecb9d1ab22b47aae6790027824.jpeg

 

The second job was to finally install the NCE USB interface I bought a couple of years back to allow Ropley to be controlled via JMRI and the WiThrottle app. This will allow two operators or more without the need to purchase extra powercabs. I'll post more details on this in a future update, but getting it up and running was much easier than I thought. There is something strangely satisfying about controlling the layout from anywhere in the flat! 

 

Tom.  

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On 17/02/2020 at 21:12, Duncan. said:

Quite beautiful buildings Tom great modelling.

Cheers

Duncan

 

Thanks Duncan!

 

A quick couple of photos to show the drop in section in place on the layout, and also showing a couple of scenic experiments!

 

The first one is the tree and having seen the excellent trees produced my Martin Wellberg, I decided to try and emulate his method of using static grass to create additional branches. Once the basic wire frame was created, 12mm static grass was added using a sieve type applicator. Next 6mm strands were added, then a final pass with some 2mm strands before a mix of turf and leafs. I think the principle has legs, but I need to perfect the initial shape of the wire frame as this one is a little spread out and I need to not leave as bigger gaps in the initial wire frame. I'm also wondering if I might be able to use just the 6 & 2 mm strands - more tree experiments required!  

 

The second experiment was creating the trimmed conifer hedgerow you can just see in the photo of the real location above. This was done by spraying a short length of plastic brown, then applying 2mm static fibres to both sides before a final sprinkle of fine Woodland Scenics turf on top. I'm actually really pleased with how this came out on the test piece so I think the basic principle is sound, however I may experiment with longer fibres so I can trim it to match the wider at the top shape of the real hedge. 

 

Ropley.jpg

 

Ropley.jpg

 

Ropley.jpg

 

I forgot to mention in the previous entry that the picnic bench is from the excellent Severn Models range of etched brass detailing items. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom,  

 

Edited by TomE
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21 minutes ago, TomE said:

 

Thanks Duncan!

 

A quick couple of photos to show the drop in section in place on the layout, and also showing a couple of scenic experiments!

 

The first one is the tree and having seen the excellent trees produced my Martin Wellberg, I decided to try and emulate his method of using static grass to create additional branches. Once the basic wire frame was created, 12mm static grass was added using a sieve type applicator. Next 6mm strands were added, then a final pass with some 2mm strands before a mix of turf and leafs. I think the principle has legs, but I need to perfect the initial shape of the wire frame as this one is a little spread out and I need to not leave as bigger gaps in the initial wire frame. I'm also wondering if I might be able to use just the 6 & 2 mm strands - more tree experiments required!  

 

The second experiment was creating the trimmed conifer hedgerow you can just see in the photo of the real location above. This was done by spraying a short length of plastic brown, then applying 2mm static fibres to both sides before a final sprinkle of fine Woodland Scenics turf on top. I'm actually really pleased with how this came out on the test piece so I think the basic principle is sound, however I may experiment with longer fibres so I can trim it to match the wider at the top shape of the real hedge. 

 

9Q3A2167.jpg.ffa9e8f554edb4f2f5082c09619e8adb.jpg

 

 

9Q3A2168.jpg.d01b602763b8a5a6fad55bfb946c1900.jpg

 

9Q3A2171.jpg.0d4186a5bab8c05c42abac85a72efb0f.jpg

 

I forgot to mention in the previous entry that the picnic bench is from the excellent Severn Models range of etched brass detailing items. 

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom,  

 

Hi Tom,

I stumbled upon static grass as twigs for trees quite by accident.  Whilst I was doing some scenic work I decided to add some undergrowth to a previously worked section and trees had already been planted. I used spray adhesive to stick the additional undergrowth, there was overspray so when i applied the static grass some stuck to the seamoss tree, I was delighted with the accidental addition to the tree and the undergrowth looked good also! I attach a photo of the results sorry it's not the best.

28117190239_0089d29f53_o.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Duncan. said:

Hi Tom,

I stumbled upon static grass as twigs for trees quite by accident.  Whilst I was doing some scenic work I decided to add some undergrowth to a previously worked section and trees had already been planted. I used spray adhesive to stick the additional undergrowth, there was overspray so when i applied the static grass some stuck to the seamoss tree, I was delighted with the accidental addition to the tree and the undergrowth looked good also! I attach a photo of the results sorry it's not the best.

 
I do like that corner of your layout a lot! I also think this method is very well suited to winter, leafless trees. 
 

Hopefully I’ll get chance to try experimenting more over this weekend. 
 

Tom. 

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More tree testing! 
 

The wire from is twisted up out of 0.25mm florist wire, trying to pay close attention to not spreading the branches out too far this time. Once the overall shape is completed, the branches are covered in superglue and then sprinkled with bicarbonate of soda which sets it rock hard instantly and adds a bit of texture to the trunk. A coat of rail match sleeper grime is then applied which gets you to this stage: 

 

E0DB68FA-C119-4CE6-A105-F39DD07DF265.jpeg.9815d0f10ae26325ed7e3a0294c1a3dd.jpeg

 

Once dry, the static fibres are added. This time I left off the 12mm strands and started with 6mm and I think it’s worked out better. 
 

99AC177D-634B-41BF-B755-6A0941487355.jpeg.bb9a56272bb1d7c4d25cc3438b3dcc01.jpeg

 

finally, a quick blast with some 2mm strands and another spray with the sleeper grime before the leafs are added:

 

ACD6E9B5-3DD3-43D7-B78D-A46C16A5E84F.jpeg.4ec985fa2545cb07cde2826f0140162f.jpeg

 

Theres a little trimming to do and brushing off some of the leaves stuck to the trunks, but I’m quite pleased with the end result this time: 


9Q3A2176_(1).jpeg.af75fd224e8b3d9d411a5145fd798143.jpeg

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom. 

Edited by TomE
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Hi Tom,

I would like to see you a tree following the same technique but using seamoss as the base, mine follow the same process except I haven't added leaves at the last stage. And to be pedantic (sorry) I would say most trunks and branches are shades of grey and perhaps green if moss is present. I do like the density of the branches.

Cheers

Duncan

p06tjlkc.jpg

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