david.hill64 Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 With Vera having steamed off into the sunset. It is time to think about the next build. This will be one of the last DJH/Piercey B1 kits. This will be finished like this: OK, not quite! For those, like me, whose Ian Allan Combined Volumes didn't include antelopes, this is an Ethiopian Dibatag, or 61033 in BR days. I'll be starting this as soon as I get back to Bangkok. I have a soft spot for this kit as it is responsible for infecting me with sevenmillitis, a terrible affliction that has caused me to give up a good job, mortgage my home and buy a kit business. I fear it may be incurable so I'll just have to feed the symptoms. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyhorse Posted December 6, 2015 Share Posted December 6, 2015 David, it was good meeting you at Reading yesterday, hope you had a good day as we certainly did. It is strange the path life can follow because of the hobby, as I was quite happy sitting in my nice warm cab on the big railway before HH arrived. The B1 project sounds interesting, I'm still deciding my next project at the moment commission or one for me? Although I do have a LNER Garrett from a certain manufacturer! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) After a pleasant - but all too short - weekend home, I am now back in Bangkok and starting to get to grips with Dibatag. This is what is in the box although obviously the Slaters wheels are an extra! I had forgotten how much whitemetal is in this kit! The castings are pretty good though: not too much flash. The first job in building a kit is making the coupling rods cutting out the glazing while the cab etches are still flat and it is easy to use them as templates for the cut. Always cut spares! Then put them safe - not that safe so you forget where they are, but safe enough! With that job done, making the coupling rods is next. here is a complete one with the parts for the next. The three layers are aligned and help together, well fluxed and soldered with a very hot iron and 188 degree solder. Then the rods are filed to give a nice profile. Here one side is done. Then countersink the rear for the screw that forms the knuckle joint. Then add the boss and nut and solder in place. Finally drilling out the bosses to take some 0.7mm wire to represent the corks. (Not in the instructions but I think it looks better). Next jobs: assemble the con rods and prepare the wheels. Edited December 10, 2015 by david.hill64 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 That was quick David. "No rest for the wicked" eh There are a couple of amendments to the DJH variant compared to the original Piercy Kit mainly with a Cast Boiler and running plate replacing brass etch. Also the method of how the chassis and boiler match up during construction differs to the Piercy one Anyway, another "must follow" topic. Regards Bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 That was quick David. "No rest for the wicked" eh There are a couple of amendments to the DJH variant compared to the original Piercy Kit mainly with a Cast Boiler and running plate replacing brass etch. Also the method of how the chassis and boiler match up during construction differs to the Piercy one Anyway, another "must follow" topic. Regards Bob Thank you. What you say makes a lot of sense. The problems I had with the first kit were around the smoke box saddle. At least this time I am expecting it. Still a very nice kit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 mmmmmm Oh what a fun build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 ....a couple of amendments to the DJH variant compared to the original Piercy Kit mainly with a Cast Boiler and running plate replacing brass etch. Also the method of how the chassis and boiler match up during construction differs to the Piercy one.... I wonder if they simplified the valve gear as well. I seem to remember the Piercy kit had jointed coupling rods, and it was possible to make the valve gear reversible because the expansion links/die blocks actually worked. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 I wonder if they simplified the valve gear as well. I seem to remember the Piercy kit had jointed coupling rods, and it was possible to make the valve gear reversible because the expansion links/die blocks actually worked. It still has the working adjustable valve gear and lubricator drive. Fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 I have one in the cupboard to build, I shall be following progress with interest David.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 So.....is this the DJH one, or a Piercy one? Confused of Scunthorpe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 So.....is this the DJH one, or a Piercy one? It's a DJH one from their Piercy range. As Silverstreak posted, DJH made changes to the Piercy kits when they acquired the range. Anyway, it's academic now! You need to tell your car too be a good girl and not cost you money as I have started to order the B1 etches and other bits for the version from that other range so you need to get ready to treat yourself.............. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 Friday night = beer so didn't make much progress. Did the con rods (still needing final clean up) and blackened the wheel rims and oiled the axles for protection. I usually start on the tender, but having a feel for this kit I am going to move round a bit and construct some things out of sequence. One of the issues is the location of the motion brackets so I may need a rigid superstructure available before I fit them. I think I'll start with the front bogie, which is a nice construction with side control and a degree of springing. An interesting comparison with the rigid frames. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 Off we go then! Here are the bogie component parts. First job after cleaning up the etches is rivet embossing. Last time I built this kit I used a sharpened nail and a hammer. Now I have the luxury of the GW Models embossing tool, which makes this task much quicker and with much better quality. With that done the bogie inner sides are attached to the folded up centrepiece. Then we fold the bogie ends and add them. The bogie side overlays are located and sweated in place. Then the guard irons and bogie guard plates added. Then we add the AWS magnet assembly and the rubbing plates. Also shown is the bogie side control beam and springs. The bogie side control sits in the well in the centre piece and is retained by 4 12BA screws and nuts. At Reading I treated myself to a set of small size nut spinners. Wow! That was a good investment. I foresee that the BA nut escape committee will have its work cut out in future. How did I get by wihout these? The centre pin sits in a spring and is retained by an M2 washer and nut. Then we add bearings (loose fit), wheels and axles. So finished bar the springing. I need to experiment with wire material and size before this is finished. I am pleased with progress so far: on with the frames tomorrow. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Oh dear I do hope you haven't spoilt poor Jeff P's Christmas. He might have to cut back on the size of the Turkey now Only kidding Jeff !!!!!! Regards Bob Edited December 12, 2015 by Silverstreak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 Oh dear I do hope you haven't spoilt poof Jeff P's Christmas. He might have to cut back on the size of the Turkey now Only kidding Jeff !!!!!! Regards Bob But if he does, then we may be able to afford some bread to go with our baked beans....................... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 It's a DJH one from their Piercy range. As Silverstreak posted, DJH made changes to the Piercy kits when they acquired the range. Anyway, it's academic now! You need to tell your car too be a good girl and not cost you money as I have started to order the B1 etches and other bits for the version from that other range so you need to get ready to treat yourself.............. Got to save for the already ordered Falcon first...I DID have money put aside, but £1700 worth of bills in two months is a bit debilitating to most accounts. Plus the eldest at uni, struggling to make ends meet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Oh dear I do hope you haven't spoilt poof Jeff P's Christmas. He might have to cut back on the size of the Turkey now Only kidding Jeff !!!!!! Regards Bob Christmas? Bah! Humbug! LOL 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 ....poof Jeff P's ..... .... You might want to correct that. People will talk.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Oh heavens,. completely missed that spelling error but now corrected. Its me age and eyesight you know. Far too many tiny MFetched bits over the years has fuddled the brain and eyesight Edited December 12, 2015 by Silverstreak Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 Got to save for the already ordered Falcon first...I DID have money put aside, but £1700 worth of bills in two months is a bit debilitating to most accounts. Plus the eldest at uni, struggling to make ends meet. Understand completely. My youngest completed his pharmacology degree and is now studying medicine. My thoughts of a casual retirement are entirely in vain. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 The frames have been assembled. Here are the bits _less one stretcher that I forgot to photograph) The origin of the kit is clear. Another Reading purchase was the GW Models small bending bars. These were useful in getting the frames folded, here seen being checked for square. All being well it was out with the big boy soldering iron. At this point the instructions suggest fitting the whitemetal spring details, but if you do that you will never be able to get the axle bearings soldered into the frames, so using the coupling rods as a guide I soldered the bearings in place. All wheels touch the ground and it runs freely. With that done it was time to remove the wheels and give the frames a good clean. So next job will be the superstructure so that I can be sure that the fit to the frames is good. First off will be the cab. here are the bits ready for assembly. These will make up into a sub-assembly that can be fitted to the footplate. I remember that the way the four tabs at the bottom of the cab sides fold causes the cab to be a little higher than it should be, so I will strengthen the joint with solder and then file the tabs thinner so the cab sits properly. I also need to spend some time on the running plate cleaning it up and removing the Cowlairs strengthening mod that some Scots locos had. These are cast into the whitemetal and need cutting out. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hello David, Another great build following on from the V1. I note from the pictures of the coupling rods that as well as being rigid, the centre hole is much larger than the front and the rear ones. What is the purpose of this? Also as the center hole is larger, what influence can the use of the rods and axle jigs have in soldering in the bearings? Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Am following this for sure David, I've only seen what you have already built and they are cracking models. Now I can get another master class in construction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hello David, Another great build following on from the V1. I note from the pictures of the coupling rods that as well as being rigid, the centre hole is much larger than the front and the rear ones. What is the purpose of this? Also as the center hole is larger, what influence can the use of the rods and axle jigs have in soldering in the bearings? Cheers, Peter Peter. Like the V1 the centre crankpin is a special large diameter one. You cannot tell from the photos but the bearings were a very sloppy fit in the frames so the coupling rods were used to set the front and rear at the correct spacing. I then was able to slide the centre tapered jig across to one side so that the bearing on that side could be located. Then repeat for the other side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I wasn't aware that the frames came as a fold-up unit, with extra spacers. Not easy to convert to S7 then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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