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Taigatrommel's chop shop: SW division 1980s


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I was going back through the thread and saw I'd posted this before.  This time the additions are clearer though!

 

I'm hoping to have half the 4-CAP pretty finished tomorrow, ie a 2-HAP.  Only the power car interior remains to be made as far as I can think right now, so I might as well assemble it and make up the seats when I feel like doing something tedious.  The rooves need me to get the airbrush out, then I can get the glazing in.

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Here's the completed DTC.  I say complete, it needs passengers and EM wheels.  The toilet window glazing is made from a CD jewel case, cut close to size and then filed to fit, attached with Micro Kristal Klear.

 

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Edited by Taigatrommel
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More Southern items are getting molested...

 

I bought a Dapol 73 which was on offer a while back.  Though the detail is first class, it didn't take me long to decide that I wanted to repaint it.  Having stripped the factory paint off (using slightly diluted IPA), I decided I might have a bash at removing the roof dimples, as they weren't so prevalent in my era.  After Humbrol filler and a rub down with wet and dry, the remaining filler clearly shows where the dimples were.

 

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I'll prime it later and see how it looks.

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A spot of refinishing...

 

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A Kernow NSE 205 has had its numbers, cantrail stripes, triangles and OH flashes removed with a cocktail sticks dipped in white spirit.  This has left far less of a mark than other methods I have tried, such as a cotton bud with thinners or a curved blade.  I'll be sticking with this method of print removal in future!  The unit will become 205 009.  Though 009 was a Selhurst unit in my era, I have found pictures of it running on SW division metals on various occasions.  The only Eastleigh 205 which carried NSE in my era was 029, which has smaller headcode boxes.  I'll be making it into a 3H with a Replica mk1 suburban body on a Bachmann CIG trailer chassis.  I've got to paint over the now-removed headlight, and change the solitary 2nd class compartment at the cab end of the DTC into a 1st class one, which means cutting a portion of seat and wall away then adding the corridor side to the middle compartment, and externally extending the yellow stripe.  This picture on flickr shows the external differences.  I'll probably ignore the unpainted cab window surround for my own convenience!

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73 nearing completion...

 

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The other side isn't so good.

 

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On anything else, I'd use transfers for the stripes, but I didn't feel it was an option with the 73 because of the grilles.  Maybe I'll have to reconsider, as there's only one grille on the side I messed up I could use transfer for the bulk and then just touch up the grille.

 

The REP is also currently in the process of being painted, but I've run out of mixing jars so I'll have to get some later.

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I've painted the REP but haven't got any lining transfers at present.  Rats.  Well, here's a DMS, warts and all after glazing.  I've managed to knock it about a bit while matching up the glazing for some of the windows that I couldn't use SE Finescast for, these have been made from acrylic (an old CD case) cut to near size and then filed to fit.  I managed to make most a good tight fit, with any gaps filled with Micro Kristal Klear.

 

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There's a fair bit of touching up to do, as well as wiping down the excess Klear with a cotton bud dipped in thinners.

 

I've also got a Mk2C BFK conversion (ex Bachmann Mk2A) ready for painting in IC executive.  GM vents from Southern Pride, as is the air-con roof hatch.  Everything else is just plasticard and cutting and filing of the original.

 

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Edited by Taigatrommel
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With REPs and TCs, it won't surprise anyone to know I have a 33/1.  I've made a simple modification to get the buffing plate and buffers sitting correctly relative to each other for use with buckeye fitted stock.

 

The buffing plate had to come off, holes drilled in the bufferbeam and brass rod used to extend the buffing plate's reach.  The buffers were pulled out, springs removed and then put back in and glued in the retracted position.  Easy as that.  I'm toying with the idea of sprung buffing plates, but this will do for now.

 

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With REPs and TCs, it won't surprise anyone to know I have a 33/1.  I've made a simple modification to get the buffing plate and buffers sitting correctly relative to each other for use with buckeye fitted stock.

 

The buffing plate had to come off, holes drilled in the bufferbeam and brass rod used to extend the buffing plate's reach.  The buffers were pulled out, springs removed and then put back in and glued in the retracted position.  Easy as that.  I'm toying with the idea of sprung buffing plates, but this will do for now.

 

attachicon.gifbagpipebufferbeam.jpg

would love to see sprung buffing plates and sprung gangway ends! would make a good change to seeing daylight between coaches!

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You can get sprung end plates for coaches from Keen Systems, it wouldn't be a leap in the dark to add some body to them for gangways which remain in contact.  Plus, Colin Parkes, the EMU maestro, has made sprung gangways on his 4-CIG.  I've ordered some 1mm diameter springs to have a go at sprung buffing plates, but their position relative to the chassis floor adds complications.

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You can get sprung end plates for coaches from Keen Systems, it wouldn't be a leap in the dark to add some body to them for gangways which remain in contact.  Plus, Colin Parkes, the EMU maestro, has made sprung gangways on his 4-CIG.  I've ordered some 1mm diameter springs to have a go at sprung buffing plates, but their position relative to the chassis floor adds complications.

I am batch assembling sprung buffers, and apart from the springs disappearing into thin air, many of them are tight at one end, making threading them on an exercise in frustration.  Considering the price of sprung buffers, a little more quality control would be in order!

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The REP edges closer to completion... the non-driving cars have all the undergubbins except steps.  These bits were sourced from whatever looked closest in my parts drawer (mostly Southern Pride) and scrapbox (Mainline, Bachmann and Lima), plus a little bit of plasticard abuse.

 

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Edited by Taigatrommel
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  • 3 weeks later...

The Mk2C BFK has been through the spray shops.  I'm not sure about the cantrail colour, in my source image I can't tell whether it's dirty white or faded orange!  There are tweaks to make and the bump stops need painting, plus of course transfers and interior work.

 

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Hi Joseph,

 

Cantrails haven't always been orange on IC executive livery, when initially introduced they were just the colour of whatever the upper stripe was, ie white on second, red on catering and yellow on FC.  Owing to copyright I can't share my source image, but I might even hazard a guess that orange was applied over white and weathered back towards the colour beneath.

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Further to cantrail observations, I found a picture which appears to show white gutter along the bodyside with red or orange around the ends.  It's not the trickiest thing to repaint, but I'll wait until I have a definitive answer before doing so.

 

I'm having a bit of trouble getting transfers to adhere to the doors, I normally get away without gloss varnishing before transfer application by using micro-set and -sol.  Not this time.  Can anyone recommend an enamel gloss varnish?  I'd use Klear, but I'm worried about how it would respond to my weathering methods, which use enamel paints.

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I've pulled my finger out and started CAD work on undergear components.  First, the item that Mk2B/Cs have that Mk2As don't, and thus can't be robbed from a Bachmann model!

 

attachicon.gifheatexchanger.png

 

Aha! I'm doing the very same Bachmann 2a to 2c conversion and this box had me stumped. Jim of P4 New Street has also done this conversion and his post reckoned said box was available from Southern Pride but I can't spot it on their website. 

 

Will you be making this available via Ermine? 

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The castings certainly exist in Southern Pride's range, as they offer complete kits for mk2Cs with them.  My email enquiring about whether they're available separately has gone unanswered.  I'll put a note in my next order from them asking too.  I don't actually enjoy CAD work that much, but my modelling desires drive intermittent progress!

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Further to cantrail observations, I found a picture which appears to show white gutter along the bodyside with red or orange around the ends.  It's not the trickiest thing to repaint, but I'll wait until I have a definitive answer before doing so.

 

I'm having a bit of trouble getting transfers to adhere to the doors, I normally get away without gloss varnishing before transfer application by using micro-set and -sol.  Not this time.  Can anyone recommend an enamel gloss varnish?  I'd use Klear, but I'm worried about how it would respond to my weathering methods, which use enamel paints.

 

Hi

 

I've used Humbrol Enamel Matt varnish over Klear before now without any problems.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

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