Building kits for Tyneside in the BR era. J24 and PDK D49/2

[micklner]

Looks much better. A small set square will show if the Cab is vertical.

[Jol Wilkinson]

John,

 

I don't know what camera you use, but the photos are invariably out of focus. In those above the book cover seems to be more in focus than the loco, although even that isn't sharp.

 

It would be a help to those offering constructive advice if the photos were sharper.

 

Jol

[rowanj]

14 hours ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

John,

 

I don't know what camera you use, but the photos are invariably out of focus. In those above the book cover seems to be more in focus than the loco, although even that isn't sharp.

 

It would be a help to those offering constructive advice if the photos were sharper.

 

Jol

 

I take Jol's point, so include a better photo. I'm afraid my "camera" is simply a Pay As You Go mobile phone. I think taking pics indoors without appropriate lighting doesn't help. it has been so cold in Newcastle that I've needed along-sleeved T-shirt to go out. A dose of shingles hasn't helped with the LH side of my face resembling Elephant Man, and an eye like a post box slit. But I'm better now, and so is the photo. Cheers, Jol.

 

John

[Jol Wilkinson]

John,

 

I think that the main problem is focus. Your latest photo is better lit but the model isn't in focus while the wall behind is. It might be worth trying putting the model further away and zooming in (if that is possible) to fill the frame.

 

The recent photos in my 4mm rolling stock for London Road thread are taken with a Motorola 5G and I sometimes use that approach;

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14518-lnwr-4mm-rolling-stock-for-london-road/&page=9&tab=comments#comment-3461358

 

Jol

[mikemeg]

On 09/02/2019 at 12:44, Jol Wilkinson said:

John,

 

I think that the main problem is focus. Your latest photo is better lit but the model isn't in focus while the wall behind is. It might be worth trying putting the model further away and zooming in (if that is possible) to fill the frame.

 

The recent photos in my 4mm rolling stock for London Road thread are taken with a Motorola 5G and I sometimes use that approach;

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/14518-lnwr-4mm-rolling-stock-for-london-road/&page=9&tab=comments#comment-3461358

 

Jol

 

There are a few ways of overcoming this focus problem :-

 

Use a digital camera wth macro mode capability. This allows the camera to focus down to around 9 - 12 inches from the subject, though the background on such photos will rapidly lose focus. Best way to avoid that is to blank out the background, alltogether, by using a large sheet of coloured paper. Blanking the background also has the effect of highlighting the subject, as there is nothing else to look at!!

 

Alternatively, the photo taken on a mobile phone from further away, can be rendered to and then edited on the computer using the crop facility, to effectively increase the size of the subject on the photo. Windows 9, 10, etc. contain an 'on-board' photo editor which will perform the crop function as well as many other photo editing functions. The rotate facility - allowing re-alignments down to + or - 1 degree - is very useful if the subject is slightly misaligned and the enhance facility, which can increase/diminish the contrast in the photo is also very useful.

 

Personally, I never rely on natural or even incidental artificial light for the photos - other than focussed/directed natural sunlight - but always light them with a daylight lamp aimed specificaly at and on the subject. I feel that the photos of the models are worth taking time and effort over, as they are the means by which the viewer will judge/assess the model.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

Edited February 11, 2019 by mikemeg

[rowanj]

Thank you for the tips. At some point, I must actually see what my 'phone camera can do!. I did have a stab at a better photo, which is attached, The boiler is soldered , but not to the footplate, - it, the cab roof and chimney are just "perched". The chimney is one of the worst I have seen for quality of casting, and I'll see if the spares box has anything better. The dome is almost as bad.

[Jol Wilkinson]

A much better photo, John.

 

Perhaps a plain background also helps as the model is the main focal point fr the camera's software.

 

Jol

[mikemeg]

1 hour ago, rowanj said:

Thank you for the tips. At some point, I must actually see what my 'phone camera can do!. I did have a stab at a better photo, which is attached, The boiler is soldered , but not to the footplate, - it, the cab roof and chimney are just "perched". The chimney is one of the worst I have seen for quality of casting, and I'll see if the spares box has anything better. The dome is almost as bad.

 

John,

 

A much better photograph; sharper and in focus - does justice to the model! I think you might find that your camera phone is pretty versatile. Combine that versatility with the functionality of the 'on board' photo editor within Windows 9, 10, etc. and you have a tremendous capability.

 

As regards the chimney and dome, and perhaps other castings, might I sugest that you enquire of Arthur whether he has better castings which would suit the B16. London Road Models have castings (brass) which suit the B16/1 so, assuming that the boilers on the /2 and/3 variants were the same, then they might also suit.

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

Edited February 15, 2019 by mikemeg

[rowanj]

I'm drawing my contributions to this thread to a close as, frankly. I'm just repeating myself with kits all of a similar construction method, and so have nothing new to say. The B16/2, which completes my trilogy of PDK B16's, is in the paintshop. and I will stick a final pic once it is lined and numbered. The body went together without any issues, so nothing to report, other than PDK don't seem to provide a whistle in their B16 kits.

 

As I was playing with the zoom feature of the mobile phone, I'll share the results here. The building of the D20 has been described earlier, the J71 is just a modified Bachmann on a Mainly Trains chassis, the B16/1 is my first effort from a few years ago, and the G5 is an ancient Nu-Cast kit which I re-visited to fit extra details based on my kit-building experience.

[46256]

Good evening John whilst I cannot speak for the others who read this thread, I always enjoy your work, and the pleasure creating these locomotives gives you is very apparent.  The thread has also had contributions from like minded. North Eastern modellers thus sharing that knowledge. I know that there is a balance between the actual modelling and updating a thread.....in any event please keep our personal correspondence active. It is always a pleasure when I see a notification from you best wishes Brian

[Bucoops]

Absolutely. I've loved reading the thread

[rowanj]

The B16/2 is almost there- close enough for pitwork, as they say in these parts. It needs buffer heads, cab glazing, crew and coal, and some further weathering to finish it off.

 

My next build is what I suspect is the last Dave Alexander J26/27, which I'll construct as the last to lose its superheater but kept the long smokebox. I think it also had the later tender frame cutouts. - see the photos. The build looks straightforward, so there is no point in postings, but thanks for the comments and likes. 

 

 

There have been several posts about the DJH D20 tender inaccuracies, esp the incorrect cutouts, and I had considered sawing them off the tender sides - it is a single casting,- and using them on the J27, The last batch of superheated locos had this style. However Dave provides both sets in his kit, along with the option for a long or short smokebox. So, in theory, if a Worsdell framed D20 turns up on Ebay, I can keep the DJH tender using Dave's parts. He is going to be a great loss if he finally does throw in the towel, and it is to be hoped someone will pick up his range.

 

 

[rowanj]

To round it all off, the B16/2 is running light (on test) .  For some reason, the B16/1 is waiting to leave the relief sidings, having just been re-numbered as a Heaton loco, while the B16/3 runs light northwards. The spotters love it, but actually, of course, I'm just showing the 3 PDK kits together for completeness.

[Headstock]

3 hours ago, rowanj said:

To round it all off, the B16/2 is running light (on test) .  For some reason, the B16/1 is waiting to leave the relief sidings, having just been re-numbered as a Heaton loco, while the B16/3 runs light northwards. The spotters love it, but actually, of course, I'm just showing the 3 PDK kits together for completeness.

 

What a black day it will be if you bring your thread to a close, I enjoy it very much, one of the best on the forum. What about that B16/4?

[rowanj]

That's very generous of you, Andrew. I'm just worried that I'll just  be repeating the same old posts, albeit with a different loco.

There are lots of really gifted modellers building kits on this forum. What I was hoping to show was that,even if I would never reach that level, kits can be built to completion which run well and add a missing dimension to a loco roster.  I don't think that,for example,illustrating the build of a Dave Alexander J27 adds much,unless,I suppose,I came across a problem which either required some head scratching or if I needed help.

But the response has been gratifying, and I'll think about it.

B16/4 ...you naughty boy...

John

 

[Headstock]

19 minutes ago, rowanj said:

That's very generous of you, Andrew. I'm just worried that I'll just  be repeating the same old posts, albeit with a different loco.

There are lots of really gifted modellers building kits on this forum. What I was hoping to show was that,even if I would never reach that level, kits can be built to completion which run well and add a missing dimension to a loco roster.  I don't think that,for example,illustrating the build of a Dave Alexander J27 adds much,unless,I suppose,I came across a problem which either required some head scratching or if I needed help.

But the response has been gratifying, and I'll think about it.

B16/4 ...you naughty boy...

John

 

 

Evening John,

 

there is always a certain amount of repetition with model railways, it is one of the great gravestones of the failed modeler. As for the gifted, presumably they get gifted by repeatedly doing it all over again. I think that you underestimate how entertaining and exciting you efforts are. The forum is full of the never do and never try, the antipathy of the thread that you produce. I shall hopefully look forwards to your J27 build, perhaps you could consider building it blindfolded for added interest.

 

P.S. How about the SEF K3? You will need one of those for your fish train.

[Jon4470]

I echo the comments of others - please keep posting - it is interesting to see how others build their kits. (especially when they are ones that I have on the maturing shelf!)

 

Jon

[46256]

John if you see some of my creations in the flesh, you would think I had followed Andrews suggestion. On hat theme purchased last year was the Bachmann head lite and magnifier......I think you could categorise my builds as pre and post purchase....I don't think we realise how our faculties are diminishing until confronted with the stark evidence...I had better go and have a drink and diminish those faculties further ! cheers Brian

[rowanj]

I took this picture for my layout thread, but am posting it here to show what I'm trying to achieve by building locos. This is a decent replica of what I used to see in my spotting days at Little Benton Sidings, though the G5's had been more or less replaced by what became Class 101's and Derby Lightweights. But it serves as a memory from almost 60 years ago.h

[rowanj]

A bit of advice, please. Now I'm such an accomplished loco-builder (LOL}. I'm looking to re-visit a DJH A2 whose chassis I totally messed up back in the day. and which has now vanished. It will be a longish-term project but I have a pair of Gibson frames which will work after a bit of fettling. Can anyone suggest a source of an appropriate cylinder block?  I thought of SEF, but am unsure as I seem to recall the old Wills effort consisted of 2 pieces each of which screwed to the chassis. DJH, of course, don't supply spares.

 

Any help gratefully received.

[Bucoops]

I understand that many of the SEF kits have been much improved over the original Wills ones - would be well worth asking?

[rowanj]

On ‎10‎/‎03‎/‎2019 at 15:16, Bucoops said:

I understand that many of the SEF kits have been much improved over the original Wills ones - would be well worth asking?

I'll give SEF a try, as I also have an A2/3 which was on a Hornby chassis which gave up the ghost. When that arrives, I should be able to compare it with the A2 and A2/3 bodies, so what sort of conversion is necessary, and see what Dave Ellis can provide to get the Gibson chassis up and running. 

 

in the meantime, here's one I built much earlier - a very early version of Dave Alexander's J21. I stripped it right back, re-assembled it with solder, and painted it in late condition when it was often on railtour duty. In between times, it worked from South Blyth and here is returning empty cattle wagons to Morpeth.

Speaking of Dave, I had a quick call with him today. He has literally added insult to injury - he fell a couple of weeks ago and broke his wrist. I'm popping in to see him soon.

 

John

[Bucoops]

Oh poor chap. Wish him well from all of use. I did email him a day or so ago, but I won't expect an answer any time soon which is absolutely fine.

[46256]

John I'm pretty sure I have. A sef cylinder set left over when Dave supplied me with an A2 chassis for my A2/2 GBL rebuild....the reason I didn't use it?...being a masochist I adapted a comet set if I recall....just come down from my loft having fitted a mashima high level into my spinner picture attached....will check and confirm tomorrow. Cheers Brian

[rowanj]

I wont put much of this build on here, but a couple of things may be of interest. This was the last J26/27 Dave Alexander had - he looked much better when I saw him last week- and I needed to do a couple of things to get it to this stage. The chassis is assembled by 2 screwed and 2 etched spacers, so I removed the 4 screws once I knew it was square, having soldered the spacers inside the chassis. The holes were then filled with Milliput.

As can be seen , there is a considerable space below the boiler, even when the gearbox is fitted, so I'll have a go at some inside motion. I've done this on a couple of kits, and though it hardly looks like the real thing, it fills the eye and is easy with an etched chassis. Of course, once the loco is in service, you forget all about it !!!

The kit provides parts for the superheated long smokebox and saturated short one, My loco will be early - build saturated 65813 which we were sick of the sight of back in the day,. It has the original shape cut-outs in the tender frame. Dave provides both styles, and I'm hoping at some point to use them, along with the superheated smokebox, on a DJH D20 to replace their parts which are either inaccurate or don't match a BR - era loco.

The cab has most of the castings you need. However, as Dave updated the kit to produce an etched chassis, some of the loco / chassis fixing points don't match, especially at the rear. I cut away the original mould in the cab floor where a nut was originally to be fixed, as the hole in the chassis etch is further forward, near the backplate. So far, I've managed to use self-tapping screws and so I cut away the cast "nut-holder" and will fit a tissue-paper planked floor as a dodge I learnt from Mike Meggison. The shape of the original casting can be seen on the tender. The filler at the cab front is as a result of over- enthusiasm with the soldering iron and that on the smokebox is a consequence of a pre-drilled hole for the handrail not aligning with those on the boiler.

 

It's a real pity this kit is no longer available, though I suppose the imminent RTR model would have killed sales in any event.

 

The rest looks straightforward.