Building kits for Tyneside in the BR era. J24 and PDK D49/2

[rowanj]

Nice to read the posts about Northumbria Models and The Model Shop in Newcastle. Chris (cant recall his surname) and his wife, with a partner, started in Forest Hall before moving to Newcastle. I think I spotted him visiting an exhibition in Gateshead about 4 years ago, but didn't speak. He lived in Cramlington, and a pop-up opened there called Northumbria Models 10 years or so ago.. I don't know if it was him or not, but it only lasted 5 minutes.

Whitley Bay had an excellent model shop or many years. I remember going in and, to my astonishment, when I wanted a Triang chassis for a BEC J11, the owner just took a Jinty out the box, removed the body, and sold me the chassis.

Dave Alexander had a fantastic shop for years in Laygate, South Shields. You could never get served for all the folks chatting to him. It was when he was developing his first kits, and was a great place to hang around.

Now, back to that G5...

[MarkC]

Northumbria Models in Waterloo Street, and The Model Shop in Blenheim Street - what fabulous memories pop up (Not so nice for the wallet though - it's sat here shaking and crying ).

 

I never realised that Dave A had a shop in Laygate, Saudi Sheels - I have vague recollections of one down there, but it wasn't an area I frequented much - except for the "Adam & Eve" for beer...

 

Mark

[Brit70053]

I think the Surname of Chris at Northumbria Models was 'Staniland' or very similar  . I recall recognising him on a local TV news item in connection with the embryonic A1 new build project and last saw him( at a distance ) at an exhibition perhaps 4 - 5 years ago.

 

Have to say that is a very nice piece of modelling by CXW1 and should encourage John (RowanJ) that such a combination of chassis and body kit can succeed, so now to let John get back to his G5.

 

Regards,

 

                John

[CXW1]

John

 

Thanks for the kind words about my G5 but it really is a bit rough round the edges compared to a nicely built LRM/Norton kit like the examples earlier on in the thread. I guess it shows that some of the older kits can scrub up reasonably well with a bit of work which is why I enjoy reading this thread. I am also pretty sure that Northumbria Models' Chris's surname was Staniland. I remember him in the shop with his wife (and possibly his son who was also called Chris). Good days.

 

Thanks

 

Chris

[rowanj]

Well, at least it looks as though the G5 will run- actually it ran OK- so hopefully, what is left is the normal stuff. The body is still in just its; basic shell, I haven't started to tackle the rear of the chassis, and the brake rods , which are very prominent on the prototype but don't come with the kit, have only been fitted to the live side of the chassis so far. Brakes and rods were just sourced rom the scrap box, and I hope painting and weathering will tone it all down sufficiently.

The loco was run through the pointwork as a test, so I posed it on the front of the non-corridor rake I have been working on. The leading pair are Kirk Gresleys, with mainly MJT parts, though the second coach, an all-1st but probably downgraded to 2nd Class or Composite, has Isinglass 3D bogies, and very nice they are too.

[mikemeg]

John,

 

Looking good! Have you now abandoned building 67340 - the one with the tank extensions - or are you still planning to model this loco?

 

Here's another photo of a G5, this one from Hull Botanic Gardens (53A), taken in 1958, during its final year of service. As always, the photo is courtesy Mick Nicholson, whose photo collection is rapidly becoming a very significant collection.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

Edited April 9, 2020 by mikemeg

[rowanj]

Hi Mike - no The Ugly Duckilng will appear , but I think it will be via an LRM kit, I'm actually more concerned about the push-pull gear- there is no point in building that loco without it. I suspect the NUCast splashers are too large and possibly too close to the tank fronts, and that doesn't help getting the shape of the tank extensions to look right - I had a few goes with plasticard, and wasn't convinced by any of them.

Since I took the photo, I removed the brake rods, which were far too thick, and replaced them with some I found amongst the scrap etch box. It gives a much better look, I think

John

[rowanj]

Here is 67340 when based at South Blyth. The photo is dated 01/03/58. The book this was taken from refers to all these trains as Monkseaton- Newbiggin, and though I hesitate to formally disagree, I suspect they are actually on the Newbiggin-Blyth trains, Was there a service on the Avenue Branch to Newbiggin? I suppose it's possible, and the caption writer seems pretty sure.

But the photo clearly shows the folly of trying to adapt a kit for the loco without attempting the push-pull gear.

Please respect the copyright.

Edited April 10, 2020 by rowanj

[rowanj]

The G5 on test. The loco now runs well, with added pick-ups to the bogie. I have fitted something which looks like cab fittings from plasticard, so, hopefully, what is left is cosmetic detailing and painting. 

There were times when I wasn't sure I'd get this to work, and I'm still sorry not to have got the extended tanks to work,  but at least I'll have another G5 for the roster.

My next loco project, if I can get it together, will be a J39/3 from a GBL body, DJH tender from a D20, and chassis from a Dave Alexander K4 etch.   It wont be exactly correct, but should be fun to see if it works, without much risk in cash terms if it doesn't. The chassis etch was £1, the loco £9.99 and the tender was replaced on the D20 by an Alexander one, so that means "free" in my book. Motor, wheels and gearbox can be re-used if it goes pear-shaped.

Edited April 13, 2020 by rowanj

[rowanj]

The G5 is getting there. The dome and cab roof need fitting-the latter wont be done until the painting of the rest of the loco is finished. In the case of the dome, by BR and later LNER days, most G5's carried a later boiler, with the dome moved a foot or so back, and this change is very noticeable. The kit has a pre-drilled hole to fit the dome in the original spot, and as yet, I don't have filler to "fill" it.

 

As Mikemeg says, photos are cruel but necessary, and in this case, it looks as though the tank handrail is askew, and the smokebox door number plate a bit stretched. Other issues will doubtless raise themselves. I always fit dummy couplings after painting, but need to fit additional train-heating hoses to both buffer beams.

 

I suppose, considering the number of times I was ready to dump this build, it's not entirely unsatisfactory, as my French report once said. Sacre Bleu !

Edited April 18, 2020 by rowanj

[rowanj]

As part of my coach- building activity, I 'm trying an Isinglass 3D Printed Gresley kit. The photos show what you get with the full kit, Some underframe details and door furniture are the obvious omissions. This is the first I will have built in this format, but , with care given the relatively fragile nature of resin and printed kits, it should be fairly straightforward. Famous last words?

[micklner]

I would be tempted to use a MJT underframe to add some lowdown weight and strength, the Truss rods look very vulnerable in your photo. Is there many moulding lines to be cleaned up ?

 

I am trying to figure out how the Isinglass bogies pivot is fitted to the underframe ,on some I have. The small instruction sheet that came with mine says nothing about how the parts are fitted.  Any more details on how the pivots are fitted in your kit please ?

[rowanj]

39 minutes ago, micklner said:

I would be tempted to use a MJT underframe to add some lowdown weight and strength, the Truss rods look very vulnerable in your photo. Is there many moulding lines to be cleaned up ?

 

I am trying to figure out how the Isinglass bogies pivot is fitted to the underframe ,on some I have. The small instruction sheet that came with mine says nothing about how the parts are fitted.  Any more details on how the pivots are fitted in your kit please ?

This is all I got Mick. Hope it helps.

[micklner]

Yes, thats much better than the Isinglass sheet I have.

 

By coincidence Isinglass Models have just sent me more details via Facebook , on how the Bogies are fitted , this now makes a lot more sense.

 

What do you think of the body ?.

 

Thanks for the help.

Edited April 18, 2020 by micklner

[rowanj]

I'll take a close up of the body sides tomorrow, but there are no obvious flaws. Because the coach represents wood panelling, I suppose it is more tolerant of any blemishes than a steel coach might be. But, despite some of the horror stories I read about 3D printing, I am very pleased.with the quality.

John

Edited April 18, 2020 by rowanj

[MarkC]

1 hour ago, rowanj said:

I'll take a close up of the body sides tomorrow, but there are no obvious flaws. Because the coach represents wood panelling, I suppose it is more tolerant of any blemishes than a steel coach might be. But, despite some of the horror stories I read about 3D printing, I am very pleased.with the quality.

John

That's looking very nice, John. Are these getting maroon paint, or very heavily weathered teak?

 

You make a good point about wood panelling - some slight roughness will surely help with a 'wood grain' appearance? Some gentle rubbing with a fibreglass brush to 'bring out' a grainy appearance would help, I think?

 

I look forward to seeing how they come out

 

- and I spotted the misprint in the bogie instructions

 

Cheers

Mark

 

 

[Headstock]

You guys do realize that teak carriages were not textured, that they were as smooth as steel panelled carriage or even a baby's bum?

[MarkC]

2 hours ago, Headstock said:

You guys do realize that teak carriages were not textured, that they were as smooth as steel panelled carriage or even a baby's bum?

When freshly outshopped, then yes, I get that, but after many years of hard service and little maintenance, that wasn't the case, was it? Certainly older panelled stock I've seen that had not seen a decent paint job in years was definitely less than smooth..

 

Mark

[rowanj]

I have little or no direct experience of 3D Printed kits, and what little I have has come from reading tales of folk having to spend hours filing and smoothing to get the finish they require (and losing detail in the process). All I can say is that, in this case, I don't see that being necessary. The finish has a roughness to the touch which you don't get with etches, or the best plastic (but you do with whitemetal), but there are no flaws to correct or moulding lines to remove. Other than cleaning with soap and water, I see no need to do anything more to the body sides, or the roof, The holes for door furniture are pre-drilled, and I assume Superglue is the method of assembly.

 

Re painting, I also assume "normal" primer e.g Halfords (not the etched stuff) will be OK, as will Railmatch or equivalent acrylic paint. I'm in 2 minds about the colour, but this certainly gives me the chance to add a genuine teak coach to the collection, after all that LNER Brown. Whether it turns out as smooth as the proverbial baby's bottom, we shall see, Andrew. Though remembering my own children...….

 

I hope the photos give some indication of the quality of the printing. I assumed I'd find a build description online, but not so far- not that there seems too much to it.

[micklner]

A thin coat of primer will show any defects. They need to be smooth especially in 4mm !!!

 

 

I am pleased to say, my Isinglass Bogies are now sorted, thanks.

[Headstock]

56 minutes ago, rowanj said:

I have little or no direct experience of 3D Printed kits, and what little I have has come from reading tales of folk having to spend hours filing and smoothing to get the finish they require (and losing detail in the process). All I can say is that, in this case, I don't see that being necessary. The finish has a roughness to the touch which you don't get with etches, or the best plastic (but you do with whitemetal), but there are no flaws to correct or moulding lines to remove. Other than cleaning with soap and water, I see no need to do anything more to the body sides, or the roof, The holes for door furniture are pre-drilled, and I assume Superglue is the method of assembly.

 

Re painting, I also assume "normal" primer e.g Halfords (not the etched stuff) will be OK, as will Railmatch or equivalent acrylic paint. I'm in 2 minds about the colour, but this certainly gives me the chance to add a genuine teak coach to the collection, after all that LNER Brown. Whether it turns out as smooth as the proverbial baby's bottom, we shall see, Andrew. Though remembering my own children...….

 

I hope the photos give some indication of the quality of the printing. I assumed I'd find a build description online, but not so far- not that there seems too much to it.

 

Good morning John,

 

Your model may be the first online build description. A question please, what arrangements are made for the fitting of the glazing to ensure that the sides don't look too thick?

[Bucoops]

@Norton Wood has documented their build of an Isinglass quint here -

 

[Headstock]

2 hours ago, Bucoops said:

@Norton Wood has documented their build of an Isinglass quint here -

 

 

Thanks Bucoops,

 

unfortunately, it doesn't say anything about the glazing and the paint finish is so gloopy that it is difficult to tell what the detail looks like on the finished model. The build looks OK though. The only way I'm going to find out is to order something. However, a rather nice brass NPC kit has just been finalized from elsewhere and orders are now being taken. I  will have a punt at that first.

[micklner]

14 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Thanks Bucoops,

 

unfortunately, it doesn't say anything about the glazing and the paint finish is so gloopy that it is difficult to tell what the detail looks like on the finished model. The build looks OK though. The only way I'm going to find out is to order something. However, a rather nice brass NPC kit has just been finalized from elsewhere and orders are now being taken. I  will have a punt at that first.

It read that he is using glue n glaze for the windows , whether that means to hold the glazing in, or filling the whole window with the glue time will tell.

In the yellow stage in the photos some moulding "seams" can be seen , after that no idea.

 

What is the NPC kit please ?

[Headstock]

27 minutes ago, micklner said:

It read that he is using glue n glaze for the windows , whether that means to hold the glazing in, or filling the whole window with the glue time will tell.

In the yellow stage in the photos some moulding "seams" can be seen , after that no idea.

 

What is the NPC kit please ?

 

Thanks Mick,

 

pain in the bum glazing is a bit of a turn off if it is harder to work with than brass, especially if it doesn't look as good. Brass is usually a pretty good thickness for Gresley glazing. Moulded plastics, resins, 3d prints tend to be over scale unless a rebate in the back of the side is allowed for. Other solutions for that type of media are, as I say, a pain in the bum. However, this is less of a concern with the likes of the 56'6'' full brakes because of the comparative lack of glazing.

 

The NPC is a kit for the original steel panelled BG's of Dia 45.

Edited April 19, 2020 by Headstock
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