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Building BR ex-LNER from kits.


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John

        I wish you would buy a decent camera  !!

      

        Sorry to be pedantic, but you can still see the gaps between the Tank sides  and Footplate, in the one viewable photo (the last one) .

 

        A light smear of filler and a light rubdown with wet and dry paper, will make so much difference to the model.

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55 minutes ago, micklner said:

John

        I wish you would buy a decent camera  !!

      

  

Hear, hear! I clicked "like" and then thought, "hang on, I don't actually know if I like it or not - I can't see anything!" 

 

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John,

 

Great Northern is now finished apart from some weathering powder followed by cleaning and polishing. I am happy with the paint "touch up" look in places it is modelled as Jan 1955 when it had a Light Casual at Doncaster and would probably have had its paint touched up.

 

Immeadiately before building this Crownline kit I built a DJH A2/3. The DJH kit was very well designed and relatively simple to construct. The Crownline 60113 was more challanging to build down largely to the resin boiler casting which needed a fair bit of work due to poor casting. To be fair though this was an old secondhand kit that someone had never built and I suspect that PDK (Crownline seems to have become PDK), who still use resin boilers in some kits, have perfected the resin casting process. The rest of the kit was fine to put together.

One other point, I used Markits machined return cranks for this model. I have never used them before and whilst the connecting and coupling rod need additional work to fit over the largish crankpin, it is worth the effort. The valvegear can be dissassembled for maintenence very easily. I shall use these Markits items whenever the prototype allows.

 

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Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

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Mick/David.

 

I have a birthday and Xmas coming up, so if you want to club together for a camera, that would be great. i didn't think the photos were wonderful, but also didn't think they were too bad either. Perhaps we should all have gone to Specsavers. 

 

On a more serious note, I couldnt see the gap Mick referred to, so put a light  into the tank and there was no bleed. I will check again.

 

Mrs rowanj has a better phone (and a camera)  so I persuaded her to take the attached photo. The white numerals rather than cream  are, I think, more appropriate for a Gateshead Works visit in the early 50's,, and this is the shade suggested by the photo in Yeadon, albeit in black and white.

IMG_1823.jpg

Edited by rowanj
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John,

 

Just a few points of detail, assuming your model represents a J73 as it was in the late 1950's or very early 1960's :-

 

i)  The clack valves on the boiler sides were replaced by steam injectors by this time and were removed.

 

ii) The whistle was situated on the top of the firebox, in front of the LNER fitted operating 'box' which was fitted to the cab front.

 

iii) The safety valves were mounted directly onto the firebox top, losing the casing between the firebox top and the valves.

 

iv) Most of these locos retained their North Eastern tapered buffers (as per the photo below) until withdrawal.

 

The photo of 68361 is courtesy Mick Nicholson.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

J73.jpg

Edited by mikemeg
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Hi Mike. My loco is copied from a photo in Yeadon which dates up to 1954 when it got a boiler change and all the associated guggins you refer to in your post. So, still with clack valves, single whistle on RH side of cab roof, and Ross Pop valves on  a casing. The boiler as supplied is an original 69, and I just used the buffers which came in the kit.

 

Best wishes

 

John

Edited by rowanj
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John

 

          You can clearly see the top of the  Tabs on both sides of the Tanks/Footplate joins in the Primer photos . Unless you have filled the gaps , they will still be there when topcoat painted.

 

           May I suggest, either the tabs are too large for the slots or the slots are too small/narrow ( or both), unless either are filed/enlarged you will never get a clean joint line when soldering the parts together. The Tank sides as a result, will also be too high.

 

Mick

 

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Hi Mick. Apologies, I thought you were referring to the black version, where I couldn't spot any gap. After your first post, I resprayed the tanks, and then the whole loco, with Halfords filler primer, which I'm glad to say didn't react with the etch primer, but did do what it said on the tin and filled the gaps really well. I then resprayed again with the grey etch primer, before a couple of light coats of Railmatch Weather Black. I was perturbed to see your last post, as I thought all looked OK. Its a relief to know you were referring to the grey primed photos.

Edit...thanks for the applause..never had that before.

Edited by rowanj
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The J73 on its' final test, and then posed for the spotters at Little Benton. It's a real pity this kit is currently out of production, as it is superb, and would be an ideal introduction to etched-kit building.

IMG_1825.jpg

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IMG_1835.jpg

Edited by rowanj
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58 minutes ago, rowanj said:

The J73 on its' final test, and then posed for the spotters at Little Benton. It's a real pity this kit is currently out of production, as it is superb, and would be an ideal introduction to etched-kit building.

 

I did  a new batch of six recently. I know that there are four remaining. If there is anyone wanting one please send a PM.

1160772321_J7320frets.jpg.c5904da83d16b0d8c7ad0c627663919a.jpg

 

AthurK

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just finished my Crownline A1/1 kit so I thought I would post a few pictures that might interest this thread. Enjoyed building the beast, so satisfying.

 

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Kind regards and stay safe,

 

Richard B

 

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I've got to the bottom of the pile, an SEF K3.,obtained from EBay. The instructions for the loco are missing, so if anyone can scan them and PM me I'd appreciate it. I have instructions for the chassis. All help gratefully received.

John

 

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14 hours ago, rowanj said:

I've got to the bottom of the pile, an SEF K3.,obtained from EBay. The instructions for the loco are missing, so if anyone can scan them and PM me I'd appreciate it. I have instructions for the chassis. All help gratefully received.

John

 

John

 

It’s a scan of a photocopy, but I hope it's what you need:

 

best,

Marcus

SE Finecast instructions for LNER K3 mogul.pdf

Edited by EHertsGER
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Thanks for the scan, Marcus. My kit seems to be the latest version with the etched cabs, so there are a few differences, but your download has identified a couple of parts I was unsure about.

I got this kit from Ebay for, if I remember, £75.  It contained the excellent chassis, a full set of Romford wheels and a Mashima motor. The motor had been fitted to a mount, but was tight, and I haven't been able to get it to run, the thing just binds on the gear, But the motor itself is fine, and I'll fit it to a suitable High Level box.  You do (or did) get the odd bargain on Ebay.

The only thing missing, as far as I can tell, are the instructions. I can identify most of the parts, can make an educated guess at some others, and am unsure of a few others, So a "latest" set of instructions would help, but I'll probably manage.

There must have been thousands of these kits built in their various incarnations, so I wasn't going to bother describing my build. Is there any point?

Thanks again, Marcus

 

 

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1 hour ago, rowanj said:

Thanks for the scan, Marcus. My kit seems to be the latest version with the etched cabs, so there are a few differences, but your download has identified a couple of parts I was unsure about.

I got this kit from Ebay for, if I remember, £75.  It contained the excellent chassis, a full set of Romford wheels and a Mashima motor. The motor had been fitted to a mount, but was tight, and I haven't been able to get it to run, the thing just binds on the gear, But the motor itself is fine, and I'll fit it to a suitable High Level box.  You do (or did) get the odd bargain on Ebay.

The only thing missing, as far as I can tell, are the instructions. I can identify most of the parts, can make an educated guess at some others, and am unsure of a few others, So a "latest" set of instructions would help, but I'll probably manage.

There must have been thousands of these kits built in their various incarnations, so I wasn't going to bother describing my build. Is there any point?

Thanks again, Marcus

 

 

Goodness! Its changed a bit since I built mine - not so long ago, but an 'authentic' Wills kit on a Triang-Hornby chassis. It seems to have come out OK - just waiting for smokebox and shed plates.

E93DB880-55C9-4B2D-A28D-8AEA58B3279C.jpeg

19431C9C-F269-4054-A6F5-6DD98DFB7AEC.jpeg

Edited by EHertsGER
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43 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

I'll have a rummage - I should have something but it will be a photo of them held flat if I can find them. I seem to recall there's quite a few pages.

 

Eek, 7 pages of A3 double sided. Some are the chassis instructions. I'll try and sort some photos out this evening.

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Rich - those would be great, but don't go to too much trouble - I only need the stuff for the loco/tender and the diagrams would probably suffice.

 

Marcus - I built a Wills K3 as you have done back in the 1970's using a Triang 2-6-2 chassis  from their 82xxx series. It's nice to see your model-mine is long gone.

 

Their have been a couple of replacement chassis kits over the years. The SEF current issue is as good a chassis as any on the market (though I don't like their slidebar arrangement in brass castings; I prefer an etch).  The photo shows mine in its' basic form. You can see the pair of round brass spacers at front and back which help building the thing square, but leave a screw proud of the sides, and which is touching the wheels, When I'm sure it's all OK, I'll solder in the spacers, remove the screws and fill the holes.

 

IMG_20201103_182337.jpg.e4dcdc0669f28fc78234463588254fe9.jpg

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39 minutes ago, rowanj said:

Rich - those would be great, but don't go to too much trouble - I only need the stuff for the loco/tender and the diagrams would probably suffice.

 

Marcus - I built a Wills K3 as you have done back in the 1970's using a Triang 2-6-2 chassis  from their 82xxx series. It's nice to see your model-mine is long gone.

 

Their have been a couple of replacement chassis kits over the years. The SEF current issue is as good a chassis as any on the market (though I don't like their slidebar arrangement in brass castings; I prefer an etch).  The photo shows mine in its' basic form. You can see the pair of round brass spacers at front and back which help building the thing square, but leave a screw proud of the sides, and which is touching the wheels, When I'm sure it's all OK, I'll solder in the spacers, remove the screws and fill the holes.

 

IMG_20201103_182337.jpg.e4dcdc0669f28fc78234463588254fe9.jpg

Looks like some good, solid progress there. I have noted that Finecast does produce some good chassis now. I dumped the chassis in a PDK kit of the Schools in favour of the Finecast one and built it to P4. Nice runner!

 

I builds these 'old' Wills kits for a bit of nostalgia fun and for my T-H layout (all code 100 and Superquicks!), so any missing 'scale' stuff is intentional!

 

Best of luck - now you'll have to tell us about your build!

 

Best,

Marcus

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A couple of folk have asked me, via PM, to post on the SEF K3. I won't do it to death, as there must have been plenty better than me who have built it, but I'll put up a few photos, as much to show the difference between the current kit and the original Wills.

Thanks to Richard (Bucoops), I can see where some of the smaller pieces go. The tender bears no resemblance to the Wills version, and builds up in 3 parts as shown. the centre axle floats in a slot. You get the option to build either the stepped or flush versions, with either high or low coal plates in the kit.

I didn't like the 2-piece footplate on the Wills model, and I don't like it any better here, but it does go together "square", and the loco and tender footplate seem to line up OK.

IMG_20201106_091204.jpg

IMG_20201106_091251.jpg

Edited by rowanj
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