PaulR Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Ok, I'm not sure what your point is though. :/ I got mine from the link I put in. Rather than keep counting the number of angels dancing on a pin, why not let the purchaser source their own chassis? I have a nickel silver model of the J1 built for me by a fellow EM member but I used the excellent London Road models LNWR 5' 6" 2-4-2T chassis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Rather than keep counting the number of angels dancing on a pin, why not let the purchaser source their own chassis? I have a nickel silver model of the J1 built for me by a fellow EM member but I used the excellent London Road models LNWR 5' 6" 2-4-2T chassis Another source, IA LIndsay, in MRN for Des 1964, shows E1 No 58 as having 5' 6 " driving and 6' 6" between pony and leading driver. Why on earth would the Furness change any of this when rebuilding a loco less than 20 years old?wheels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) I'm all for people sourcing their own chassis and I honestly hope some do so to hopefully show versatility. I have no doubt whatever loco bodies made will be able to fit RTR or other company chassis, in some cases with a little adding or taking material from either. But to suggest I don't even bother making a chassis is ( with respect) a silly idea to be honest. I need to make one in planning to make sure things align and splashers clear the wheels etc so to not finish it off and offer it as an option to those who may want it is a pointless loss. I've already sold chassis' proving to me some want them. Also my E2 chassis has the correct wheelbase of 8' 0" equally spaced whereas the others you can get from others don't as the middle wheel is not central to the others. If a loco body has splashers and another chassis kit from someone else had a different wheelbase it wouldn't fit. So I make chassis' for each engine as an option and to be as complete as possible with what I currently am using and offering, namely Shapeways. I do have designs on etches and doing things differently maybe one day too. Also part of my aim is to ease people into loco kit building as I know many who are scared to. Having a fully squarely printed chassis already ready to accept your motor and gearbox is for some people a godsend. Logical and I have been told words to similar effect! Again, by all means source alternative chassis but they are and will be there as an option. Another source, IA LIndsay, in MRN for Des 1964, shows E1 No 58 as having 5' 6 " driving and 6' 6" between pony and leading driver. Why on earth would the Furness change any of this when rebuilding a loco less than 20 years old?wheels I don't know, these are the same questions I ask! As we found with the Cambrian Conundrum different material says different things so investigation has to be made Edited February 8, 2016 by Knuckles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I'm all for people sourcing their own chassis and I honestly hope some do so to hopefully show versatility. I have no doubt whatever loco bodies made will be able to fit RTR or other company chassis, in some cases with a little adding or taking material from either. But to suggest I don't even bother making a chassis is ( with respect) a silly idea to be honest. I need to make one in planning to make sure things align and splashers clear the wheels etc so to not finish it off and offer it as an option to those who may want it is a pointless loss. I've already sold chassis' proving to me some want them. Also my E2 chassis has the correct wheelbase of 8' 0" equally spaced whereas the others you can get from others don't as the middle wheel is not central to the others. If it had splashers and another chassis kit from someone else had a different wheelbase it wouldn't fit. So I make chassis' for each engine as an option and to be as complete as possible with what I currently am using, namely Shapeways. I do have designs on etches and doing things differently maybe one day too. Also part of my aim is to ease people into loco kit building as I know many who are scared to. Having a fully squarely printed chassis already ready to accept your motor and gearbox is for some people a godsend. Logical and I have been told words to similar effect! Again, by all means source alternative chassis but they are and will be there as an option. I don't know, these are the same questions I ask! As we found with the Cambrian Conundrum different material says different things so investigation has to be made Sure, my knowledge of the Cambrian is very thin so I would not presume to put forward an opinion there but I have been modelling the Furness for years so express a view with some confidence. I remeasured the Pochin drawing as it does not have dimensions on it and confirm it is the same as all the others I have quoted. Anyway, I should stop worrying about it and if you feel you must make a chassis, do it to either dimension; no one will worry about one mil (in 4mm scale) and you need to sleep at night without all this torture! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 (edited) Sure, my knowledge of the Cambrian is very thin so I would not presume to put forward an opinion there but I have been modelling the Furness for years so express a view with some confidence. I remeasured the Pochin drawing as it does not have dimensions on it and confirm it is the same as all the others I have quoted. Anyway, I should stop worrying about it and if you feel you must make a chassis, do it to either dimension; no one will worry about one mil (in 4mm scale) and you need to sleep at night without all this torture! True. It can get stressful at times and is a headache but I perceive it to be a necessary evil in areas. I'm just doing the best I can - can't please everyone but I try! You could suggest to LRM to make just loco bodies and not offer a matching chassis for them, see what they say! I think the difference between the ride height on the J1 with different driving wheels would be about 0.75mm but I haven't measured yet to be sure. This is also why I'm thinking it can be easily made to work with both wheel sizes providing the leading wheels are set up to have adjustment in height and the right amount of play - easily done with a washer. Edited February 8, 2016 by Knuckles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 True. It can get stressful at times and is a headache but I perceive it to be a necessary evil in areas. I'm just doing the best I can - can't please everyone but I try! You could suggest to LRM to make just loco bodies and not offer a matching chassis for them, see what they say! I think the difference between the ride height on the J1 with different driving wheels would be about 0.75mm but I haven't measured yet to be sure. This is also why I'm thinking it can be easily made to work with both wheel sizes providing the leading wheels are set up to have adjustment in height and the right amount of play - easily done with a washer. LRM have been making their models for years and were not chatting about the difficulty of getting the correct dimensions for a chassis. I mentioned what I did as a possible method not the only one, precisely because I DID want a squared up chassis, it fitted and has the right dimensions ( to a mm anyway). I will now withdraw from the discussion and leave you to make your decisions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 LRM have been making their models for years and were not chatting about the difficulty of getting the correct dimensions for a chassis. I mentioned what I did as a possible method not the only one, precisely because I DID want a squared up chassis, it fitted and has the right dimensions ( to a mm anyway). I will now withdraw from the discussion and leave you to make your decisions Ok no worries. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ChrisN Posted February 8, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 8, 2016 I do appreciate that you have made the chassis for the Cambrian loco. I still need to learn how to solder which I will do once I have got further on with my build so until then my 2-4-0 which needs a brass chassis, and my coach kits will have to wait, but, yes but, when I have the cash for the loco I can at least make a start. I also wish to scratch build an Aston goods but that will need a butchered R-T-R chassis, but am I brave enough to do that as it is not just a simple cut and fix job? Maybe, but again that will be for later, after the Class 60. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 When the rest of the bits I ordered finally arrive I will continue my series I started a few weeks back showing how to build one of my K2's. The methods for the Cambrian will be exactly the same and for the other engines it'll be even more simple as there are no bogies. What I will be showing should be applicable to traditional etch kit construction too as it is basically the same but just misses some things out as they are already printed a certain way. I'm hopijg that it will remove any fears in building my own kits and also encourage n00bs to also at some point get their teeth into a 'normal' etched kit. I'm no expert but I will be showing how I solder up a High Level Kits gearbox. In that You'll see how easy it is once things are in combination. Soldering I find a lot of fun too. The Fiiisszzzzz of the flux is strangely satisfying. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 13, 2016 Author Share Posted February 13, 2016 (edited) Greetings. 8-) As a few asked me to make a video showing how to build an SCC kit I have decided it will be a good idea. I know quite a few who have never built a traditional etched kit and so I see these as a good way to ease you into them. For experienced locomotive kit builders, building an SCC loco kit will be a peace of cake as the chassis are printed square (albeit not readily sprung) thus removing a lot of the pitfalls that can come by not having a square chassis. The following VLOG will be to some a lesson in egg sucking. I have a rubber one in the 'fridge if you want more practice, honest. :thumb For others you may cringe, either due to the methods or materials employed. This is perfectly fine, we can skin cats in different ways and you are free to disagree. You may also think why am I teaching these things when others may do a better and more experienced job? Good question and fair point. Answer - A) - I was asked to. B) - It may help to alleviate fears newcomers have in building either my own or someone else's loco kit. If this scares people away then what chance they got doing a full blown etched job? C) - Well, I don't see many others doing it, I do have a few DVD's on the subject but that is it. There are some others nocking about though. D) - It may give you a good idea what I was on about in terms of tutorials in video form, albeit a bit crude in production values. Many of the information contained herein will also be applicable to traditional etched chassis and loco' building in general but for obvious reasons it will be lacking in certain information and demonstration. I will be showing how I build a High Level Kits Road Runner + gearbox though so there will be some soldering and such like shown. The video will be building a K2 and two different bodies are used, the real K2 and also a freelance variant for my own purposes. So with that part 1 and 2 and 3 are below. Hope you like them and please ask questions if you have them as I'll do my best to answer them. Part 1 Part 2 Pert 3 More to follow. Edited February 13, 2016 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted February 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2016 Just stumbled upon this thread. Re the Cambrian 61 class, WRRC have a drawing in 7mm/ft by Mike Lloyd, originally published in MRC, of which I have a photocopy. For the locomotive it shows bogie wheels 3'6" diameter, bogie wheelbase 5'6", distance from rear bogie wheel to leading driver 6'6 1/2", driver 6'0" diameter, driver wheelbase 8'3". For the tender it shows wheels 3' 10 1/2" and wheelbase 6'0" + 6'0". I also have the G.A. drawing by Sharp Stewart for the tender, stamped at the top Cambrian Railways, which confirms these dimensions. This drawing was from the BR/OPC collection, and I believe is currently available from NRM York. The NRM is a bit short on detailed drawings for Cambrian Railways locomotives; I think the BR/OPC collection had rather more G.A. drawings. I did intend to check and to approach the NRM if some were missing, but haven't yet got around to it. The NRM has some useful Cambrian wagon and coach drawings, originally in the BR/OPC collection. Cheers Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Thanks NCB. The tender issues I haven't came to a solid conclusion yet as there are different wheelbases on different drawings. The loco however I managed to finally settle and as result the loco body has been made and uploaded with the 5’ 6” + 6’ 6½” + 8’ 3” settings. Appologies to others if you disagree! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Oky doky, part 4 now ready for viewing.. Hope it is of use or at least interesting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Part 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Part 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 Quick alert. Just seen in my email inbox Shapeways have an offer on if anything interests. Free shipping on orders over $25. In mine or anothers shop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Still a little unsure on the tank insides, anyway I have been making good progress. So far I have a about 4 different takes on chimneys as photographs are clear the heights and profiles differed. Having them as interchangeable friction fits. This is the progress so far... Critiques good or bad welcome. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 16, 2016 Author Share Posted March 16, 2016 Shapeways have come out with yet another announced offer! If you follow SCC on Shapeways and use the discount code r28l2 you will save $10 on your first order placed by the 15th of April, another great opportunity to nab something cheaper than it usually would be. NOTE: I'm unsure if it is a 1 or an I or an L in the code r28l2 though so wou may have to try different ones. Also I just had a really nice couple of days with Davey and Tom. We went to Reading MRC where Tom kindly took a few pics and we had a little play about. Here is a new pic of my WSF prototype L&YR Class 28 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) Next video parts complete. Edited March 28, 2016 by Knuckles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Been watching your videos...Great work. Given me the encouragement to try making a steam loco. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted April 3, 2016 Author Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) Been watching your videos...Great work. Given me the encouragement to try making a steam loco. Many thanks, that's why I do this. I may be the most sophisticated but I haven't seen many others have a go at filming it so if it helps coax a few into kit building (mine or others) then all good. Here is part 10... Edited April 3, 2016 by Knuckles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 (edited) Part 11 at last! Edited May 24, 2016 by Knuckles Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Several points from your wheel fitting and soldering videos. LRM motor mounts (gearboxes) are usually supplied with an instruction supplied (copy attached). Note the reference to providing a flat or dimple in the axle to take the grub screw drive. Otherwise you can force the gear slightly of centre when tightening the screw. That usually results in varying gear noise or even uneven running. As you say, they are straightforward so not too difficult to make up. Re flux, solder. DCC Concepts are very good at marketing their products but I would suggest that 145 degree solder isn't just for detailing. Many modellers use it for kit assembly and it is my preference for nearly all my model making. I am not keen on Carrs Green but would go with their Yellow flux as it appears less likely to cause corrosion over a long period if not thoroughly cleaned off. My own preference is for 12% Phosphoric acid based flux, which is water based and easily washed off. Readily available from the usual suppliers, Eileens, Hobby Holidays, LRM, etc. Temperature Controlled soldering irons should only need to be set at about 100 deg. more than the solder. I think you are using a small diameter bit. That acts as a restrictor for the heat travelling along the bit to the job. Better to use a 1/8" or 3.5 mm bit with an angled flat end. Don't use old metal ferrule brushes for flux. You can get contamination of the flux from the metal. Better to use an entirely plastic cheap paintbrush. MM instructions 2012.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 (edited) Many thanks. I did mention in the 1st solder vid that people use 145 solder for etch kit building. I do even to be honest. I have not tried the Yellow one so I will likely give it a whirl once the Green has been depleted. In all honesty I haven't tried that many fluxes, mainly these two as I find I get on with them nicely so never felt the need to experiment more; same for the soldering iron actually. I hear you about the heat and point thickness, mine is a 40 Watt Weller iron and the tip is 2mm's wide then 2mm's from the tip inwards the thickness reaches 1mm if that helps. I know many like Antex irons due to the wide range and customisation but again I brought this one and have been using it for years to do everything. Unless it breaks down I'll carry on, no point mending what isn't broken! Others too hopefully will find your pointer a help. All my paint brushes so far have a metal shank pinched to hold the bristles so I'd have to buy a plastic one when I see one next. how bad does flux get? I haven't had any issues yet. Also many thanks for the instructions, your mounts didn't arrive with any and I never saw any on the site (unless I just didn't look hard) but that helps a bunch. I'll bung them in the video description boxes. As an aside too these motor mounts I'll likely buy a few of in the near future as they are simple to construct and fit in small pre grouping engines easier! I may one day try the scary method of adding a propeller shaft to a tender but unsure if I feel up to it yet. EDIT: Also to everyone a new K2 variant is now on offer in both the materials. https://www.shapeways.com/product/A7QGA5TNT/fr-k2-late-body-fud?optionId=59963242 Edited May 24, 2016 by Knuckles 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knuckles Posted May 26, 2016 Author Share Posted May 26, 2016 Part 12, Chassis Completion. Now for the body mainly, this is the stage where things start to look more like the intended machine! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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