Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Please see previous page for a SCC Photon print price list with Shapeways comparison.




I answered some questions on Scalefour Forum and thought them good to put/show here also...

It terms of printing qualities the Photon resin prints I will argue they turn out better simply because there is non of the wax residue of FUD needing to be smoothed over and the surfaces are generally smooth and crisp. Prints underneath are a tad rougher where the supports have been removed but other than that it's just the odd few lines that most 3D prints have that need smoothing over, mainly on large flat sides than anywhere else. Most of a model can be blasted with primer and painted on either straight away or after some extra smoothing.

Here is a 4 wheel Furness tender recently printed, no smoothing attempts have been made thus far, it's just been cleaned with the alcohol and water and dried out. The details will be more obvious once primed but the rivets all turn out perfectly. You can see a diagonal line on the flat side that needs smoothing, Front has some chips where the supports were removed but I've since thickened that up a tad so it won't happen. Other than that good to go.

0DBjpEK.jpg

Insert hasn't been glued in yet, just plonked for the picture. Am printing the extra bits for it as I type including spare leaf springs should they be removed for lining.

5dwBzrl.jpg

L&YR Class 28 (657 batch) Body before support removal.

1fU5Q4V.jpg

EDIT:

cpcof8x.jpg
Vl4bCDy.jpg

Again, honest as a nut, there are some lines that need smoothing as the panel shows one diagonally, but other than that, as of yet it's literally been cleaned, dried and sprayed. :)

The side line will need a bit of smoothing and the fine layer lines at the front will need a rub, other than that I think it's ready for the real paint.

No injection moulded quality but I think we are pushing ever closer.

Edited by Knuckles
  • Like 7
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Smoothing example for that line.  Bit of chiseling or gentle knifing, humbrol model filler, fiber glass brush, filler primer blast and more fiber glass brush.

 

This

wxeDo09.jpg

 

To this

TyBmMhc.jpg

 

Sorted. Eeeyz Goood iniit.

 

Other than extra details close to being painted red.

Edited by Knuckles
  • Like 8
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

New Gresley Reduced Loading Gauge cabs with the backheads joined both Right Hand Drive and LHD.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/W4DWSSGAX/a0-a1-a3-cab-backhead-controls-lhd

https://www.shapeways.com/product/P9BPM3VSE/a0-a1-a3-cab-backhead-controls-rhd

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LTTD3AGLA/a0-a1-a3-cab-exp-backhead-controls-lhd

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GNMJFE5NY/a0-a1-a3-cab-exp-backhead-controls-rhd

 

Or you can obtain one directly from the Photon at a more reasonable £7.95 + post by emailing me.   They are not on the Photon Price list but they will be for a future update.

 

Here is a picture of one primed so as to see details easier.  It's in a white resin at the moment so naff for photographs.

 

eFUetoo.jpg

 

oJZC2Bf.jpg

 

svexeIy.jpg

Edited by Knuckles
  • Craftsmanship/clever 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Sounds good. :)

 

----

 

Now I've had considerable practice 3D printing my own designs and doing a few from others I'm at a position where I can now consider printing other people's designs more often.  Worse case scenario would be a refund - had to do that once anyway.

 

If you're interested, I'll look at the STL file and give a yay or nay or maybe if you tweak it.  After that it'd be a quote and if happy printing.

 

Just throwing it out there.  :)

Please send an email to [email protected] if you're interested.  It'll be cheaper than Shapeways if we go ahead with anything.

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Knuckles said:

 

Now I've had considerable practice 3D printing my own designs and doing a few from others I'm at a position where I can now consider printing other people's designs more often.  Worse case scenario would be a refund - had to do that once anyway.

 

If you're interested, I'll look at the STL file and give a yay or nay or maybe if you tweak it.  After that it'd be a quote and if happy printing.

 

Are there any requirements you would place on designs such as number of parts, or wall thicknesses? I have a set of test detail parts (test as in will they work, will they look ok, will cosmetic flanges break off as the parts are applied to the model etc) that I was getting ready to send to Shapeways or i.Materialise when they both changed their price models which made that kind of test totally impractical. Parts have been sprued, gridboxed or joined together to meet their requirements.

 

Thanks

Chris H

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I know only too well about Shapeways awkward and changing tolerances/requirements.  Oh boy, don't get me started! :rolleyes:

 

I haven't drawn up any particular requirements.  Currently review is on each file after I've had a good look at the STL/s.  

Biggest issue usually is the geometry of certain overhangs and whether special supports need adding to the CAD as the current Slicer I'm using doesn't give you 100% options so if there are problem areas, suggested tweaks would be shown to you and if you were willing to mod' them then they likely could be printed.

 

As to thin walls and wires unless they need supporting usually not much of an issue in most cases. 

Same for loose parts, depends how many they were but sprued would help.  They don't need to be 2mm's thick like Shapeways often want.

 

Would have to have a look, all meshes are different.

  • Friendly/supportive 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 21/11/2018 at 21:12, Knuckles said:

Thanks JCL, I'm a bit iffy with 3D hubs. I uploaded a model for someone to print, turned down the quote and then later find (via Quarryscapes on here) the model on the front page of ANOTHER hub as a promotional.

 

Upon questioning the hub I got a load of gob back, after going through official complaint lines I basically got told to bugg-r off because the information I saught was protected by their privacy policy crap.

 

So as you can see, first impression was amazing and I won't touch it now.

 

Seems internal trading or giving away of meshes happens. Removing all the bumf, my 3D mesh/design was stolen so how much money they may have made off it only they know.

 

With accounting costs I currently can only estimate. Once the STL file has been sliced it gives a pretty accurate build time estimation but no idea on resin costs.

 

However, as I'm currently building my own designs and they are mostly shells I have a good idea.

 

Alcohol is getting used up quickly, then there are the cone filters and FEP sheets that get consumed but again it isn't worrying me. At the moment, based on what they cost, adding a set amount on to every estimation likely will cover those for when they need replacing.

 

3rd time lucky! It printed. :D

 

There is the same diagonal line that I seem to get on almost every print and I'm unsure if these can be printed without it, however, smoothing it is a simple file/paper rub with primer as is usual. Blemishes aside MUCH less clean up needed than FUD.

 

A few supports still failed but nothing significant, there are minor warps on the edges of the buffer beams but I do mean minor.

 

A few passes with a file would sort them or if you were really picky a bit of milliput sculpted there would be a quick fix. However repeated print setting tweaks may eliminate these issues.

 

The tank extensions also have a baby warp yet a couple more supports will cure that.

 

Overall I'm happy, even the cab controls turned out well.

 

I'll have some pics later when I get time.

Just saw this. Anyway done on all your items fascinating stuff. On cleaning prints. In Australia I use Methylated spirits which is cheaper and does a great job. Resin, filters I buy a bulk pack of paint cone strainers from a paint supplier in boxes of 1000 for about $50AUD

Link to post
Share on other sites

Furness D1 (minus cab) with a particular chimney and safety valve plonked on for effect. Chassis, smokebox door, buffers, backhead controls and some E1 splashers. These will be posted off soon!

 

Oc1K4ft.jpg

tr6cfVn.jpg

MGqRBul.jpg

u29doVB.jpg

lh23ioQ.jpg

 

Twitter link...

 

  • Like 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 8
Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Knuckles said:

White Spirit at least I found to be useless against resin but the alcohol works great.

 

I wouldn't need 1000 cones!  Gosh no, I'm not printing that much yet.

 

Glad you like what you see. :)

No, our Methylated spirits is not the same as white spirits(Turps) here in Australia. Around 90% of methylated spirits is ethanol; so it's incredibly strong. The main additive is 10% methanol, which is highly toxic, but it may also include isopropyl alcohol, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone or other substances. This cleans anycubic fine. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Not the best picture as white is the very devil to get a good shot of but it's a LSWR Coach Side printed at 50 microns as a test for someone.

 

Based on this I'd think the whole thing would turn out nice.

 

BMOoG75.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I can and I can't.

 

I tried 'bunging one in' but it's too big, same for full A0 shells, so the only way is to chop them somewhere around the firebox front and do a cut and shut job with two separate prints.

 

Can't see that being popular, but it can be done.

Edited by Knuckles
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey,

Going by the title of your thread, are you 3D printing for other people too?? Sorry if I missed it, I've missed reading your thread for many months now and kind of lazy to read back.

I am hoping to buy an Anycubic Photon within the next 3-5 months and wanted to see first hand, the quality of 3D prints.

 

If 3D printing a small test piece is something you can do, let me know.

Cheers!

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/03/2019 at 18:15, Knuckles said:

Well I can and I can't.

 

I tried 'bunging one in' but it's too big, same for full A0 shells, so the only way is to chop them somewhere around the firebox front and do a cut and shut job with two separate prints.

 

Can't see that being popular, but it can be done.

 

Ok, thanks for letting me know. I think I might scratch build the running plate and use the smokebox, boiler and firebox from a Hornby A1 if I end up making a Gordon.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Have a slightly clearer shot of that coach side in primer - it's a beautiful print! With a penny for scale, and the grooves on the door ventilator hoods have come out beautifully, as have the door bump stops. I'll be sorting out a bit more of a full-body section over the weekend and hopefully should fire you another quote request next week for two compartments or so.

 

IMG_20190313_180609143.jpg.3730e895884579db361849a0e6caa5db.jpg

 

And a shot under the microscope:

 

D1jyTvfWwAELnAI.jpg.d11b1f2095bf1c3fd2181dc3bb57d032.jpg

Edited by Skinnylinny
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

How you getting on with the coaches??   Not seen an update here or elsewhere for a while.

 

---

Not a new product but I was asked for help in deciding what detail variations the various Furness & Cambrian engines had in relation to the different parts I have made, so to that end I created this PDF earlier. You'll have to look at the Shapeways website or the Photon Price list for pictures and names but it's explained clearly inside.

You may find it useful just for general research too or if making your own models unrelated to SCC.

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/download/file.php?id=20267

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 04/05/2019 at 13:22, Knuckles said:

How you getting on with the coaches??   Not seen an update here or elsewhere for a while.

 

---

Not a new product but I was asked for help in deciding what detail variations the various Furness & Cambrian engines had in relation to the different parts I have made, so to that end I created this PDF earlier. You'll have to look at the Shapeways website or the Photon Price list for pictures and names but it's explained clearly inside.

You may find it useful just for general research too or if making your own models unrelated to SCC.

https://www.scalefour.org/forum/download/file.php?id=20267

 

Some additional detail differences for you that I compiled a while back....

Cambrian-Sharp-Stewarts.pdf

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.