SCC - Sparkshot Custom Creations - 3D Printed Loco Kits etc Various Scales

[Knuckles]

Can't seem to delete posts so edited the heck out of it instead. Bad init!

Edited July 2, 2016 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Not finished yet but I thought I'd give you all an update for those it may interest. Lots of progress has been made but slowed down from what it could by various other things in life. (Always the way isn't it? :? )

 

The J1 and E1 are coming along nicely, the J1 about 80% estimate and the E1 not so much. As the J1 was a rebuild of the E1 I thought it wise to crack on with the J1 until the optimum moment of advancement to jam the safety valves and blow a copy of the J1 to smithereens and only rebuild what is different - so that is what I have been doing.

 

Not much to show yet on the E1. You can see the different chimney's though.

 

With these J1 pics I coloured it roughly to give an impression. Since these pics more work has been done such as more riveting, a water filler cap and a lot of chassis progress.

 

 

 

 

Still plenty to be done but it is at the stage where it looks very much like it is supposed to. So now you have sen this there probably isn't any point showing you any more updates until it is ready.....unless I need to pick some brains, in which case.

Hope you enjoyed it, comments, suggestions and critiques welcome.

[Knuckles]

Great news.

May I present the Furness Railway's J1 Class Locomotive, now ready for order!

The chassis are nearly completed but some details need to be finalised before upload.

Also a very important note that must be understood: My computer has been having a real bubble trying to edit and process things due to the file growing insurmountably mainly due to the myriad of rivets. Not only have I been battling through countless hang ups and ridiculous slow down but when trying to integrate the backhead cab controls it glitched terribly and converts everything into a wire frame that I cannot do anything with. I was not able to work around this and so the backhead and some details sadly will have to go in an upload for purchasing separately, for this I can only appologise. However, as usual you'll be notified with any updates.

The J1 ran with several different chimney variants. The body kit comes with the small type, however the others will be available soon also. Rather than give all the bases, instead the base is moulded into the smokebox and the various chimney shanks drop in place allowing interchangeable looks and periods. The other advantage is the lowest lip doesn't have to be quite as fat like on a lot of model engines.

I haven't decided yet whether the chimneys should all be in one order or individual...or both options may be better. I'm open to suggestions.

I know many like to buy just the loco bodies and then either make their own chassis or meld/bash them on to RTR chassis so rather than waiting the body is ready now.

Anyway, although I still have work to do to get the other bits completed this essential is now ready.

Here are a few pics with a mostly completed chassis, some pics are partially coloured in, should help to give an impression of the finished machine.











For some reason Shapeways' renders zoom out sometimes. Having trouble bringing them closer, but either way here are the links to the items.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3ZEJJCRS4/fr-j1-body-fud-fxd?optionId=60548091
https://www.shapeways.com/product/KUMWD7L62/fr-j1-body-wsf-bsf?optionId=60548288

Let me know what you think Been at this over 6 months.

[rue_d_etropal]

Interesting to find it is not just me who is having trouble with large files. Thought it was just my old laptop, but got new one, new copy of software, and it still struggles on some large files( in my case it is roof tiles not rivets and I have a work around), but does not crash the way it used to do. With locos, and coahes I am using components which are then assembled into complete design, and this seems to work better. In effect this is what I should have done initially, and is the way the software is designed to work, but it can make resizing slightly more difficult. Odd thing is that it was not as much of a problem when I started and I did have a lot of rivets on some designs, but it became noticably more a problem which is why I thought it was just my laptop.

 

We may not be using same software, but do seem to be hitting similar problems. Also not sure what Shapeways are doing with their images, but something is changing. Frustrating thing is that even though I have orientated views to show item better, it still seems to show original on index pages. Only way to force image I want is to do my own. Only a problem with older designs where I was not starting in right xyz dimension, so I will just have to work through designs.

 

I now have a Tablet to take to exhibitions so can show people at exhibitions if there is WIFI, and if not use my pdf lists(reason I want images correct). . This is part of my plan to get 3D printing out there, but still would like to create a group of us to work together on promotion and attend exhibitions.

[JCL]

Originally I was lazy and, in Blender, used a sphere for rivets, but now I've started using a low-poly hemisphere as it reduces the number of vertices held in the file. I also use arrays of rivets wherever possible, which I believe means that only one rivet is defined and then it is repeated at regular points. I can't think I've had problems with the stuff I'm doing, but then, while some of my locos have been fairly heavy on them, I don't have nearly as many rivets as you have in your latest photos.

[rue_d_etropal]

Only problem I have with using components is resizing designs for different scales. I suspect, in fact I am pretty certain most designers only work in one or two different scales.I work in as many as I can. That is what really makes 3D printing effective. We are no longer constrained by scales of model dictated by manufacturers.

Interesting that is second time I have seen description of rivets for 3D printing. I wonder if it is worth the extra efford. I simply use a cylinder. Simple and effective. Anything more complex requires more maths so could increase file size.

With the software I use(Geomagic Design) ,the basic parts can be big files, but the assembly is small, so obviously is just linking the parts. The STL file can be big, but it sometimes is smaller than I would expect, even if the assembly it  is only one part. Viewing an assembly is a lot easier for computer than viewing the original part. This is why I still create an asssembly when it is only one part. There is a lot I don't use, or have tried, but if I want to try someting different, I will try something out.

[Knuckles]

I used to use just a cylinder for rivets and in some areas I still do, yet in some areas you can tell so now I have been rounding them off.  They are as you say file killers, lesson learned though!

 

As I mentioned before some other bits would have to be added separately so here they are all done now, links below.

 

Only thing left is finalising the chassis.

 

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/47GC863YU/fr-j1-e1-albion-backhead-controls-fud

https://www.shapeways.com/product/88RMELJE8/fr-j1-e1-albion-backhead-controls-wsf-brass?optionId=60555316

https://www.shapeways.com/product/PWKYA9BJM/fr-j1-e1-albion-chimneys-interchangable-kit?optionId=60554838

[JCL]

How big was that file is you don't mind me asking?

[Knuckles]

Over 80,000KB / 80MB which to me is small but for some reason my system was having a real job dealing with it.

I don't have the fastest computor but not the slowest either. Had it a lot of years.

 

i5 Quad Core.

3.2GHZ

12GB RAM (Was 4)

Faily good graphics card with a dedicated GB RAM if needed. Can't remember which type off my head. If I bung a computor game in it can play to highest or very close to settings nearly all the time.

 

To make comparison the other engine bodies I have made were 26MB's or less.

 

(Am still yet to learn Blender but want to at some point)

Edited August 23, 2016 by Knuckles

[JCL]

ouch, that is big. I think my largest so far has been 28Mb for a 4-2-2 and tender. Out of interest, do you do your rivetting at the end? Is it the rivets that are causing all of this or could there be a problem elsewhere? It's only happened once, but I know one of my files blew up in size when it became corrupted.

[Knuckles]

Did rivets part way in but moreso towards the end. What did it was capping the ends off round as before I just used cylinders but as I wanted to improve I went to town somewhat!

[Knuckles]

Duplicated above post by accident due to crap laggy connection so err...yeah.

Edited August 24, 2016 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Part 14
Final in the series.  This shows the completion of the Freelance Variant body rather than the real thing but I'll get around to doing it in FUD or FXD at some point.  Will also get some more pictures done when the time is right.

What the series has shown is a very simple way to build a loco kit as a fixed axle set, some ways of doing things and some not so good ways of doing things.  Since getting a GW Models wheel press and puller life has been so much easier and accurate, but that is documented in the series too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UXQpx5NuCw

This is the original Furness K2 I built (You have seen it before I know) using the smaller boss head coupling rods and the smaller 3' bogie types, all as the cheaper and less crisp WSF material.

And this is the completion of the V3 Freelance Variant built in the video series, also a WSF print but with the bigger coupling rod bosses and using the 3' 6" bogies.

As these were fixed axle 00 builds the next ones I'll be experimenting with to find a suitable compensation or springing method for P4.
I've recently ordered one of my new Furness J1's so it'll be interesting to see where this leads.

[JCL]

I've not been on much over the last few weeks because of work, but I'm pleased I logged in and saw your thread in my follow list. That looks superb! And in WSF as well.

[Knuckles]

Thanks man.

[rue_d_etropal]

 

And in WSF as well

Just goes to prove you should not listen to what some say about WSF. Compare it to some resin kits out there.

[JCL]

Yep, that's true. As an idle test, I scaled up my GNR Ivatt single the other day (no other changes except rescaling), and it looked a pretty reasonable price in WSF in 7mm scale - no issues introduced either. Can I ask a few detail questions? I won't be offended if you choose not to answer tho.

 

What diameter axle holes do you use?

How do you do your hornblocks indentations?

For WSF, how thick are the outer edges of your running plate?

 

You were asking in your video about further video ideas, have you thought about doing some of the process up to the print? Again, I understand if you're reticent.

 

J

[Knuckles]

Nah its fine.

 

Axle holes for driver have been 4mm diameter which usually means that te top hat brass bushes (or bearings as they are often called) usually are a tight fit or they will need reaming out slightly with a 1/8th reamer/broach.

 

As I like the practice of having holes too small I recently have made them around 3.8mms on some so the reaming should ensure a more accurate fit. Easier to remove material than add.

 

Running plate lips in WSF I have done most around 0.5mms tall and 0.3mms outward but either way they lack the crispness that FUD/FXD lips have that I have been making at 0.3mms both ways.

 

As the for indents I don't know as to my knowledge you are using Blender. I have the program but have a lot to learn before I can effectively use it.

 

Hope this helps.

 

No plans on making a tutorial other than building my own designs to be honest. Makes sense.

Edited September 5, 2016 by Knuckles

[MikeTrice]

Axle holes for driver have been 4mm diameter which usually means that te top hat brass bushes (or bearings as they are often called) usually are a tight fit or they will need reaming out slightly with a 1/8th reamer/broach.

 

As I like the practice of having holes too small I recently have made them around 3.8mms on some so the reaming should ensure a more accurate fit. Easier to remove material than add.

Interesting. Early Romford top hat bushes were 3.7mm outside diameter and I notice these are still listed under the "Original" tag in their catalogue. They do now include 4mm bushes in their range. Until now I had not realised their were two different diameters.

 

For hornblock indentations I think JCL means how do you implement them rather than how do you do it in the software? It looks as if you provide a rectangular recess in the frames which I am guessing is 6mm wide and 4mm above the axle centre line. The user can then fret them out and fit sprung hornblocks.

 

Nice videos by the way.

Edited September 5, 2016 by MikeTrice

[Knuckles]

Interesting about the bush info.

 

 

 

It looks as if you provide a rectangular recess in the frames which I am guessing is 6mm wide and 4mm above the axle centre line. The user can then fret them out and fit sprung hornblocks.

 

Yup, that's what I have been doing.   Just checked them all to be sure.

 

The E2, K2, 61 and 28 chassis' all have dim's as you just described.

 

The J1 can't as the top of the frames are already so thin I had to reduce them to .32mm's and the cut out instead of being 1mm deep is only .5 but I'm sure a work around can

be implemented for compo or springing.   I'm awaiting my P4 J1 chassis (and the whole loco' shebang) to arrive so I'll be having a good faff making it more than a fixed axle.

 

The Freelance (with historical basis) 28 Mogul has an axle centre to top of cut out dimension of .5mm so I'll update that very soon - quick fix.

 

 

 

Nice videos by the way.

 

Thanks.

 

A bit rough and ready but I haven't all the equipment and facilities to make it slick and in some areas I show how not to do something!   Everyone has different methods and preferences in modelling though,  I just hope they help in some way.

Edited September 5, 2016 by Knuckles

[JCL]

Not at all, I think the videos are great, and very comprehensive. Thanks for the info there. I did my first WSF chassis recently, so I'm in update mode at the moment, working out what could be better.

[Knuckles]

Right, time for something interesting, something tangible.   It's been over 6 months of riveting 'meshin,' for the J1, very much indeed because of all those damn rivets.  In the research it seemed quite clearly that there were at least 3 different rivet patterns for the J1 and so these took most of the time, positioning the correct amount in the spaces provided and sizing them was a swine cake, then I decided to round them all off as they should be and it caused all those lagging issues previously explained.  So as a reminder, the body comes with 1 small chimney shank that slots into the base, the buffers are sprued underneath and the smokebox is sprued roughly in place protruding a little.  Cab roof is included and loose so non sprued.  For the backhead and other chimneys due to the data issues you'll have to get the separate pack unfortunately.  I did want them all in the same file but what can you do?

 

Anyway, enough waffle, here is a not so cheap FXD print on the desk after its white spirit dunk...

 

Bum view

 

Almost bum view

 

Chimneys and backhead (Backhead based on the K2 and tweaked slightly.  Info lacking so if anything significant comes up it can be changed.)

The optional base is so you can use them on a different engine if you want to.  Good to at least give the option.  Rather than the usual method of having loads of full chimneys to interchange having the shanks interchangeable instead allows you to change the engine or period to a degree at a whim.  The chimney base has a slight step as it should before the main shank so it provides a perfect join point.

 

WSF P4 Chassis clipped into place.  Fixed axle.

 

Here we see the body with the small chimney plonked in position along with the roof for show.

 

And here we see the ancient looking 'Chocker' chimney on display instead, the smokebox door has been de-sprued and pushed home and the buffers likewise.  The J1 also ran with several buffer types but the kit only has these more ornate ones.  Others can be made if there is demand though.

 

And for now at least there you have it.

 

More waffle...

 

So as you can see the surface detail still needs a little clean up but it is so far better than the FUD prints that I have had...which are better than the WSF prints.  Fibre glass brush and chiselling action carefully in between the nice rivets is the order of the day.  I paid extra to reduce the amount of clean up required due to the rivets so thankfully it is smoothing down a lot easier.   Whatever material you get from Shapeways they will (so far to my knowledge) require a certain amount of preparation work before painting, but either way it is about 30 times quicker than building up an etched kit!    Not dissing etched kits BTW, very much a fan of them. 

 

 

What I am going to do is build the P4 Chassis as a fixed axle, probably find out my mini layout doesn't like it (1: its P4, 2: I'm not the most experienced at building P&C) and then probably buy another chassis and try modifying it for compensation or springing.  I have to date built a few etched kits and a few of these fixed axle SCC chassis but only one was done against the instructions when I tweaked a SE Finecast E2 chassis for P4 and Alan Gibson springing - which worked out pretty good.

 

Many (especially older) etched kits are designed as a fixed axle and the builder then has to modify them for compensating and springing.  So far all the SCC chassis are of the same fixed axle format so there is no difference here.  When I get around to modding one it will be as much of an experiment to me as it may be to some of you.

 

In the future I plan to incrementally bring in etched chassis for everything also to account for the traditional ways and then hopefully people can choose what they would like.  A) The usual etched ways good for modifications, B) Easy peasy 3D printed ways less good for modifications.  We can't please everyone in this life but we can try!

 

So with that I'll now go away. 

 

Please drop some comments good or bad, until next time...

 

 

EDIT:  Just noticed I forgot to add the leaf springs, what a numpty!   Will edit the uploads soon.

Edited September 30, 2016 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Major update time for the Furness J1 loco build, probably 85-90% done.

 

I will be updating and adding features to the chassis' very soon. The clearances are fine, very happy with how things have turned out. I however need to add leaf springs as I forgot and the cosmetic cylinder covers have been started seeing as they are very visual.

 

The front leading wheels have some downwards filing in the holes to allow the bearing to drop downwards a wee if needed, seems to be working well. I need to add pick ups on these wheels too but other than that it is running on the P4 layout without falling off so happy days init!

 

I made a mistake with the coupling rods as I reamed them out too much so to cure this the holes were reamed out even more and a washer soldered in place - the type Markits sell as crank pin retaining nuts. This was then opened out more carefully and voila, nice running.

 

The double joined radial truck can be built fixed if you want simply by gumming it up or using the other fixed arm provided to give Pony style swing instead. These are designed to be used with 10BA nuts and bolts as seen in the pics. The wheel insides have some 2mm bore 1mm thick washers in place to allow free rotation when 'touching' the frames.

 

 

 

The loco still needs a lot of work, more paint touch ups and a few details still need adding. The gear had to have a space in the cab floor cut but if using a different set up this may not be needed. I'm using as LRM 50:1 motor mount with a 1020 Mashima motor and a 12x6mm flywheel. After adding the backhead, controls and crew I doubt it'll even be noticeable, especially with the roof on. I had to thin the crank pin retainers and also the downward pipes for clearance, also had to bend them out a smidge but all good. In 00 you won't have to worry but this is a P4 example.

 

Paint needs some varnish once finished and I need to add transfers. I have the FR lettering but I cannot find proper FR lining and it seems the only way to do it properly is to make my own transfers...somehow. For now I guess I'll just have to line the tanks black like I have been doing with previous FR engines, maybe then I can go over it once I have proper black with thin vermilion(red) lines either side. LNWR and BR have lining like this but only on the straight sections rather than tank corners, also no idea if the red will be too thick or not. Ideas? Need etched plates too.

 

Ok, so, needs some more hand rails, smokebox dart repair, pipage from brass rod, sand and brake pipes, whistle and other bits no bobs to complete. Getting very close though! Chimney shanks need a bit of smoothing too as they had none and I just painted them, could do with a wee rub. I'm taking livery details from the Pochin models hence the odd wheel colouring. Pretty catching me thinks.

 

What follows is some shots of the engine in I estimate 85-90%, first is shown the small chimney, then the inwards to top tapering Chocker and then the larger chimney. Not all are shown here though. See what you think and please drop some comments if it interests you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you like it, don't like it or have suggestions/questions please let me know.

Like buttons don't do much for communication. :/

[Knuckles]

Mini Update. I have made the cylinder covers for the P4 chassis and will do so for the others, currently it is on order to plug in to the chassis I currently have. The updated chassis will have them fully integrated.

I don't know how much this will interest any of you as I know most of you wouldn't dare do a P4 loco without springing or compo but I wanted to try it with this chassis and see how I get on.
My track work being the first P4 layout isn't the best. 9 times out of 10 its ok, something will fall off occasionally though! It does however mean it tests things well in some ways. Anyway the J1 chassis as expected was having issues on it. It wasn't falling off but it was failing in the current department so I decided to have a go at the springing.

Now I haven't gone for a 'Propper official' solution just yet.  
I have some AG Hornblocks to try for that (I know it isn't CSB and downward only seem to be disliked now but I found them fine on the E2 chassis I did) but what I have done in the mean time will no doubt make a few of you cringe.

I basically got a half moon file and filed downwards about 1mm in the chassis bearing/bush hole on the front driving holes and inserted the bushes loose so they can drop or spring downwards slide style. I already did this with the front leading wheels anyway and as I have them rigged for top acting wiper pickups they are the springs too.

So we have the front two wheels sprung downwards, the rear driver fixed and the rear radial/pony (however you want it set up) isn't yet sprung but set up so it drops down a tad and can rock.

Result?

Pretty smooth running loco going through all my crappy point work quite happily. Will have to post a vid when the engine is fully completed but the lining is a stumbling block currently, want the vermillion this time. Need to make my own transfers somehow.

This compensation/springing method I understand is one of my classis bodge jobs but it is also an experiment that worked. Most of mine after some faffing do so far I just have to hone things. Long term I don't know but until it blows up I'll leave it as it is. I'll be making another J1 chassis once I have finished the additions to it and I'll try for the proper brass sprung hornblocks on that one. CSB can come later as it is a bit over my head currently.

Ok, serious question now. Is it worth designing in parallel ovals instead of circles for the bush inserts on the fixed chassis as standard? I ask because this has worked out really well and if you want any or all of the axles fixed you simply glue the bush in place at the top most point and if you want fill the hole. So for fixed axle construction there is no difference but it makes it easier to do this method I tried out if you want to - I'll want to again. Got to be a springing start right? I have other plans and trials for more official solutions coming up but not just yet.

Edited October 15, 2016 by Knuckles

[Edwardian]

Major update time for the Furness J1 loco build, probably 85-90% done.

 

I will be updating and adding features to the chassis' very soon. The clearances are fine, very happy with how things have turned out. I however need to add leaf springs as I forgot and the cosmetic cylinder covers have been started seeing as they are very visual.

 

The front leading wheels have some downwards filing in the holes to allow the bearing to drop downwards a wee if needed, seems to be working well. I need to add pick ups on these wheels too but other than that it is running on the P4 layout without falling off so happy days init!

 

I made a mistake with the coupling rods as I reamed them out too much so to cure this the holes were reamed out even more and a washer soldered in place - the type Markits sell as crank pin retaining nuts. This was then opened out more carefully and voila, nice running.

 

The double joined radial truck can be built fixed if you want simply by gumming it up or using the other fixed arm provided to give Pony style swing instead. These are designed to be used with 10BA nuts and bolts as seen in the pics. The wheel insides have some 2mm bore 1mm thick washers in place to allow free rotation when 'touching' the frames.

 

 

 

The loco still needs a lot of work, more paint touch ups and a few details still need adding. The gear had to have a space in the cab floor cut but if using a different set up this may not be needed. I'm using as LRM 50:1 motor mount with a 1020 Mashima motor and a 12x6mm flywheel. After adding the backhead, controls and crew I doubt it'll even be noticeable, especially with the roof on. I had to thin the crank pin retainers and also the downward pipes for clearance, also had to bend them out a smidge but all good. In 00 you won't have to worry but this is a P4 example.

 

Paint needs some varnish once finished and I need to add transfers. I have the FR lettering but I cannot find proper FR lining and it seems the only way to do it properly is to make my own transfers...somehow. For now I guess I'll just have to line the tanks black like I have been doing with previous FR engines, maybe then I can go over it once I have proper black with thin vermilion(red) lines either side. LNWR and BR have lining like this but only on the straight sections rather than tank corners, also no idea if the red will be too thick or not. Ideas? Need etched plates too.

 

Ok, so, needs some more hand rails, smokebox dart repair, pipage from brass rod, sand and brake pipes, whistle and other bits no bobs to complete. Getting very close though! Chimney shanks need a bit of smoothing too as they had none and I just painted them, could do with a wee rub. I'm taking livery details from the Pochin models hence the odd wheel colouring. Pretty catching me thinks.

 

What follows is some shots of the engine in I estimate 85-90%, first is shown the small chimney, then the inwards to top tapering Chocker and then the larger chimney. Not all are shown here though. See what you think and please drop some comments if it interests you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you like it, don't like it or have suggestions/questions please let me know.

Like buttons don't do much for communication. :/

 

Excellent print.  Excellent build.

 

Watching out for the 2-4-0 tender!