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Yeah. I didn't know as much 10 years ago though.


I will be sorting a website out for SCC at some point so might be able to double it up for pic storage too. Will see.





Please look on previous page... Furness J1 now available in 7mm!

E1/SPC/Albion in process of following.

Edited by Knuckles
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Seeing as photobucket (They aren't even getting a capital letter from me) ruined everything I've finally after some reading and probing chose Imgur to be the next file hosting site I use.  I don't want to spend money for hosting currently as I am out of work and it doesn't ensure perfect future proofing anyway.  So if it happens again it happens again.


I'm not going to bother repairing old posts as it is just too much effort, over a decade on other forums and nearly 80 pages I might add so we are going fresh.

Right, just one new picture to kick things off now we have pictures again.  


The N gauge E2 has had it's white spirit treatment but no smoothing yet.  Looks pretty good already.  Haven't got around to testing chassis though.



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Unless you plan to use a brass kit tender or similar it is still in the design stage so will be released soon hopefully, can't give an exact date as expected! When done though it (or they) will complete the picture so to speak.


If you need any specific info about any items such as dimensions I can supply those if they would help, axle hole sizes for bushes, frame widths etc.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

A very big thanks to Knuckles - the first parts for my 7mm Furness Railway J1 arrived today.




The chassis plus associated parts, the rods are brass and are very nice!



The firebox backhead has to be my favourite part though - come out very nicely!


Just got to save the pennies now so I can buy the body :-D

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Furness E1 & Cambrian SPC Tender update.


The brake pads are different as I didn't pose a particular type for the pictures but never mind. 2 out of 3 are shown.

I'm not going to model all of the brake gear as a lot seems impossible to fully see in the photographs and drawings although I have figured out how most of it works by comparing everything.

Brass or nickel silver rod will be better than a thin 3D print that might fail and get an order rejected. :(


The rivets are not modelled yet, these are just holes showing the green inner walls. More to add along the bottom and rear yet.




Notable further improvements are shamfered axle boxes, a round beaded lip on the tender top and the bolt on housing for the shaft in the steps etc.

I gave the Cambrian and Furness ones a slightly different size and position based on photographs but it is guess work due to again more conflicting variations.

I think it captures the correct look though.


Top picture is Furness bottom Cambrian, they will share the same base chassis.


That's where we are so far. :)


Any critiques, suggestions and questions etc all welcome. Just after an accurate model at the end of the day.

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Well, I don't enjoy scratch building, thoroughly bored of making my own bits and kit-bashing. Enter the Robox to do the boring stuff for me.


So for my small N gauge layout I have two road bridge mouths. Peco ones if I remember correctly. After measuring how wide I want the road I stuck a ruler to the bits and a vernier. An hour or so designing the fill in bits and a couple of hours printing on the 'normal' preset of 200 microns (0.2mm layer height) and voila!


Really happy with the result. The machine can go as low as 20 allthough I haven't messed with enough settings to make it work well so I print most things at 100. I didn't want to wait 4 hours though so printing at rougher setting seemed more attractive.


Result to me is very good. It has had 1 blast of primer, 5 minutes sanding and thrn about 10 minutes brush painting. Only thing I might tweak is to add more detail to the roof as it is lacking and thus overscale. For me though more than happy. If anyone is interested I'll bung the bits on Shapeways, maybe with extra roof detail. No idea how much it may be though.









Eeeeez Goood Iniiit!

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Seems my last post was popular. :D

I ended up buying a Robox Dual (RBX02) 3D printer. So far I'm convinced it was the right choice, loving it much. Might get a resin printer at some point as both types have pro's and cons. With this FFF printer I am playing with different materials. Tweaked PETG 'HDglass' is my current favorite.


Anyway, the Cambrian 'Albion' Small Passenger Class and Furness E1 4 wheeled tenders are now available with the 4 chassis options, 00, EM & P4 & 7mm 0 Gauge. Details in the product descriptions. Very happy with how these have turned out.

The brake handle and railings will be separate items due to them being so thin, this way it reduces a print fail risk.


4mm WSF/BSF:




4mm FUD/FXD:




4mm Chassis' (Both materials):





7mm Versions:

Chassis https://www.shapeways.com/product/YVKKB5D2M/7mm-fr-e1-cambrian-spc-tender-0-chassis?optionId=63370533

Cambrian Albion Tender Body https://www.shapeways.com/product/2ASEDJLSC/7mm-cambrian-albion-spc-tender

Furness E1 Tender Body https://www.shapeways.com/product/K8YLNRZ65/7mm-furness-e1-tender



Both tenders at a glance are very similar but there are notable differences.

The chassis are common to both bodies, other than the brake pads I have decided

not to model the brake gear this time due to a lack of clear photographs and drawings for them.

Visually I can see quite clearly how the majority of the arrangements work (similar to a basic wagon with cam arrangement) but to model them

accurately with the current lacking info would likely result in much guess work and I'd rather not do that.

Plus being thin they again run risk of print fails so brass rod and such like is the best option currently.



The following picture is a quick collection I made of the Furness version shortly before splitting it down into component parts.

The brake pads are still odd and there are two filler caps on the top, obviously you would pick the ones you need from sprue. Also the curved coal divider is optional so you can discard it if need be.


Edited by Knuckles
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  • 2 weeks later...

Morning Knuckles, how do you fancy doing an off the wall prototype? A Baldwin 0-6-2t that ran on the Cork, Bandon, & South Coast from 1900-1914. I do have a copy of the only working drawing available but it is a section view and can point you at several photographs.

     Look forward to your thoughts pm me if you feel thats a good idea.

           Regards Mick

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been to N gauge show today and picked up some awesome bargains.


Firstly been experimenting with some rough home printed dart flights.



I have consistently heard good things about Union Mills loco's. They are not the best detailed but apparently are heavy, rugged and the quality and running is always praised. However you have to ring the guy up to buy them. Found this at a very attractive N gauge price so thought I'd give it a whirl as a second hand risk.






Really pleased with its performance and as the range includes a lot of pre-Grouping items I'll surely look again for future considerations. Although the BR livery is applied nice I may repaint it one day into an earlier more colourful affair.


The 3 coaches were also a good deal. £12 each with no box, perfect condition and to me a good amount of detail.


Since rescaling the 4mm Extended Tank E2 loco body to N gauge I have been looking for a cheap chassis to try out. Well, at around £23 I quickly snaffled the old Graham Farish 9400 Pannier. I didn't expect it to run being so cheap and if it did run I expected it to be a nail.




It runs really sweetly at all speeds. Bonus!




I thus test fitted it to my E2 print and found that the Backhead Controls, Cab floor and Bunker divider would need cutting out. Not impossible but difficult to do neatly and without damaging other parts of the body. Whatever chassis one chooses some re-modelling will likely always be needed but to make life easier for us all with this new knowledge I took it upon myself to make another version as a revision with the cut outs already done. You'll still need to fettle the fit but the process should be much easier now.




If there is any demand for other E2 options in N or 0 please let me know. :)

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Yeah it is. :)


I've been breaking down the 4mm E2 into kit form so I can orientate the bits for best finish.


Some components are proving tricky to get good enough for my liking but some are turning out good. What I can say with confidence is that My printer seems to be happy making chassis that work. (Checkout Whitehousefilms's new video when it comes out!) and also the actual finish of prints doesn't need as much cleanup as WSF, it smooths quicker and easier, is crisper and on the way to FUD in quality.


My hope is to get a body kit fully completed and offer them on ebay cheaper than Shapeways as a budget option. my bridge inserts (earlier post) turned out well so might look into designing buildings too. Shapeways ones obviously will be more expensive but if I can get a good print from here then I can offer them to you all much cheaper.


This is aim here. I don't want make rubbish though so getting the quality/price balance right is important. It is also great to be able to prototype print things too. Been doing quite a bit of that here and there.


May buy a resin printer at some point too but I don't have much room and due to the messy cleaning process I could do with the room.

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As well as revising the Extended Tank E2 body for N gauge with cut outs ready for RTR chassis I today have been working on the E2-X Freelance with same cut outs. Costs a few quid more but not much...




As for the E2 N body I already printed I just bastardized it with the mini drill basically creating the same sort of cut outs I modelled in 3D to fit the 9400 chassis. It is fit although not properly fixed. I'll likely use the good ol' Bluetack as it far easier to do than faff making a proper fixing. Unsure yet.


This extremity is what you don't have to do now. (You will need the odd bit of filing around the insides of the cab and shave a tweak off the smokebox saddle at the front and I had to clip a little off the boiler front underneath, very gently shave the insides of the steps a tad but that was about it.)



No I haven't been dealin' stuff!









There we go. Now we know it can fit we just need to smooth the print, paint it, add details and fix it to the chassis. Good init!

(Yes I know the coupling rods are on upside down, but what do you expect for a £23 second hand!)

Edited by Knuckles
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Very good news on the E1/SPC, and I can use those 4-wheel SS tenders for other stuff.


I don't feel comfortable that I'd obtain a decent finish on something like a loco body if I chose WSF.  Even if I managed a decent surface, it would doubtless be at the cost of surface detail.


On the other hand, FUD and FXD do inflate the cost. Not your fault, of course, but it may take me some time to save up for the components for a loco and tender.


As someone relatively new to this medium, I wonder how FXD compares with FUD.


Has anyone tried motorising the E1/SPC yet?  I suppose that in that regard it is essentially similar to the J1.   

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Very good news on the E1/SPC, and I can use those 4-wheel SS tenders for other stuff.


I don't feel comfortable that I'd obtain a decent finish on something like a loco body if I chose WSF.  Even if I managed a decent surface, it would doubtless be at the cost of surface detail.


On the other hand, FUD and FXD do inflate the cost. Not your fault, of course, but it may take me some time to save up for the components for a loco and tender.


As someone relatively new to this medium, I wonder how FXD compares with FUD.


Has anyone tried motorising the E1/SPC yet?  I suppose that in that regard it is essentially similar to the J1.



Hello again, thanks for the comment. :)

No one to date has brought an E1 loco yet. The geometry of the underside is similar to the J1 as the only real difference in the chassis and body relationship is the lack of a small rear wheel. Just the chassis to body fixing was moved forward to account for the change.



My experience of Shapeways' materials is thus:


WSF: Cheapest, not so crisp on detail and requires quite a bit of preparation to get a good finish. However if you do put the effort in you can turn out a good model. Just look at Matt Lindsay's lined BR liveried effort of my E2-X V2. Awesome.


FUD: Will hurt your wallet. Some prints turn out better than others. As a result surface preparation differs between the same about required for WSF to only medium. However, either way the finish WILL be better once done and you get those nice sharp crisp edges such as splasher edges, details and rivets. Worth going for if you can afford it. More brittle though.


FXD: Will cost you your left foot, a barrel of ale and a bag of chips (British chips here, not those American farty things we call Crisps!)


Surface preparation is lots less and you'll get the best finish. Cleans up much quicker and is smoothest. Best if you earn a lot or are mad.


BHDA - I trialled the material before it went public but couldn't get a good print. However if you can get a good print it is better than FXD, is almost injection moulding quality and oozez awesomeness. Problem is getting your designs to pass in it is not easy for all loco body designs and it warps a LOT. Almost all loco or wagon type prints in it are a bit 'banannery,' surface preparation is minimal. Might retry it one day and get some stuff in it all being well. If no warpage. Is around FUD price too.


I personally like all these materials for different reasons and will continue to order in all of them.


Hope this helps. I'll document the build of my E1 but I'm really busy with other designs at the moment. Only got 2 hands. :(

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've have almost completed my 'half' secret project.


I have been posting it on SiF and a teeny bit on Facebook but that's is about it. For RMweb and Scalefour I chose to keep it quiet until now as I am close to completion.


So what is it?


Well, the A0 Gresley Pacific. 'A0' being a term I coined a few years ago when helping the formation of two essays (see below).


Gresley had some drawings of a pacific that was just a stretched atlantic, likely #279...




and in 1915 a particular drawing was made followed by several redrafts. I have copies of these and I have decided I wanted to make every combination possible, partly because I like odd engines and partly because I believe the A0 also formed the basic for the Railway Series characters Gordon and Henry.


Those who know me know my main railway interests are pre-Grouping and the Railway series, the latter in a serious non compromising way with the intent to get back to the roots and model the correct image as originally intended by Wilbert Awdry - not as he actually did. More on the Railway Series later (RWS from now on).


So, once this is release we will be able to model many different combinations by switching the running plates, cabs, fireboxes etc.

Everything has been designed to be a cohesive modular system that will enable chopping and changing of forms at a whim.

You'll have to modify the valve gear or change the cylinders in some cases but I can't do everything for you!


This is a project I have been wanting to do since before I even started SCC and so I'm excited to be near completion. Even if there are no takers I do not mind too much as it is personally important to me.


Everything has been designed around 3 different Hornby A1 RTR models so to be as universal as possible. Several scale drawings have been used. I basically created a Gresley A1 in original condition and made everything go backward in time or theoretically forward so in terms of how you want to model things the world is your oyster. Who invented that term? Why was it perpetuated? STUPID!




The wheelbase of the A0 drawing is...

6'3" + 5' 3" + 7' 0" + 7' 0" + 8' 0" - However the Gresley A1 is...

6'3" + 5' 6" + 7' 3" + 7' 3" + 9' 6"


For this reason I am making the 1915 A0 fit the A1 wheelbase so it can still fit on RTR and kit chassis.

What I am thinking of doing is providing an alternate Cartazzi type pony carrier to bring the wheel closer forward.

However the body, boiler bands and splasher positions are all still set to the A1 for previously mentioned reasons.

It is a compromise only avoidable if you want to design your own chassis from scratch. If however one day someone

is mad enough to want it even more perfect to the original proposed specification then I may do something.


This is the initial 1915 drawing that measures up to have a LOW height plate, low as compared to a Grelsy A1 running plate. You will notice from the back it is set HIGH then it sweeps lower to a MEDIUM height then after a bit it is LOW again before finally reaching the last curve to buffer beam height. I put them in capitals as it will be important later.

aoGtQrs.jpg Illustration is found in Cecil J.Allen's British Pacific Locomotive Design.


For another drawing I brought a book I was pointed to and indeed there it is on page 125 of GREAT NORTHERN STEAM by W .A.Tuplin.

This measures up to have a MID height plate.



As well as me being fascinated with this design and intending to build it I also believe firmly that it forms the basis of Wilbert Awdry's character Gordon and so if you model it in certain combinations you can create if you desire what I personally believe to be an accurate version of the character.

This is all on the modeller of course, you'd have to paint it blue yet it could easily represent something else if modelled a different way.

I also believe the A0 likely forms the basis of the character Henry, it's all speculation but the same idea goes. Configure a certain combination and you could model that too. The original 1915 plan will requirean older A1 chassis with the X04 motor or tender drive due to the parellel and lower pitched boiler, the front of the chassis will also need a bit of chopping. The other combinations mainly need valve gear tweaks or cylinder changes. I have done this before when making two versions of Gordon so I'll put it in the instructions upon release.

Looking forward to building some of these!


The other thing is you could order JUST the running plates and use them to convert your own Hornby A1 loco body to a particular format. Might make another cartazzi/radial type truck to make for the pony position on the 1915 plan. Can come later.


The other thing is you could order JUST the runnin gplates and use them to convert your own Hornby A1 loco body to a particular format.


For more on the A0 and how it likely relates to Gordon please read these to excellent essays. I helped them a little bit and as such I agree with most of the thought and conclusions, although not all. I am in agreement about 90%. In the essays it mentions the A0 as having the same wheelbase as the A1 yet the drawings show otherwise. it is a moot point anyway and doesn't detract from the overall idea.




For my two models of the character in various combinations (also possible with the SCC items upon release) pleae look here...



So there you have it. I kept it quiet as I know some roll their eyes whenever the RWS is mentioned but pre-Grouping and RWS are my main rail modelling interests and so I'm not about to change.


Once the A0 project is completed we'll be able to model the 1915 drawing as done, the redrafts we know about and the theoretical future combinations that may point to the true image of RWS characters.


The latest pics showing various combinations (not all), 95% complete...







Any thoughts? :)

Edited by Knuckles
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