SCC - Sparkshot Custom Creations - 3D Printed Loco Kits etc Various Scales

[Knuckles]

Thanks Gareth, much appreciated.

[Knuckles]

Hi Gavin, many thanks for your comments, it's a cracking print and you're more than welcome to use the photos however you want

Many thanks, I have updated the SCC Shapeways page with your pictures.

Blasted the background out and tweaked the brightness and contrast and voila! Beautiful.

It's on the front page towards the top, clicking on it will show other pictures too.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/sparkshotcustomcreationsscc

Edited June 8, 2018 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Good news.

 

Furness D1 & Cambrian Small Goods Class (SGC) Now re-scaled into 7mm with an 0 Gauge chassis option.

 

We have the BASIC version like before and also a full version in one combination.

Full version only available in the Smooth Fine Detail Plastic (named FUD Formerly)due to the extra

component count disallowing the Versatile Plastic ((VP) Formerly named WSF).

BASIC version available in the VP only.

 

 

 

Full Version

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LREQNS44C/7mm-fr-d1-cambrian-sgc?optionId=65901393

 

BASIC Version

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LYP53CJAX/7mm-fr-d1-cambrian-sgc-basic?optionId=65904016

 

The Furness wrap around type cab

https://www.shapeways.com/product/PU5VQKAS3/7mm-fr-d1-e1-cambrian-spc-sgc-cab-wrap-type?optionId=65906929

 

0 Gauge Fixed Chassis

https://www.shapeways.com/product/3ZGMZKQNN/7mm-fr-d1-cambrian-sgc-0-chassis?optionId=65901394

 

The other cabs, safety valves and whistle packs that are compatible with the E1 and Cambrian SPC also are

available in the spares section as before.

 

The same four wheel tender is used for the D1 too so they are still there as an option.

[Knuckles]

LB&SCR E2 bodies, both Standard and Extended Tank versions now re-scaled into 2mm Finescale, 2FS, 1:152 from the N versions.

Inside walls etc bolstered a fraction to account for the difference.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/R7JASN26G/lb-scr-e2-2fs-1-152?optionId=66218859

https://www.shapeways.com/product/H5KWXDFWM/lb-scr-e2-2fs-1-152-extended-tanks?optionId=66218868

 

Edited July 1, 2018 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

 

 

Furness K2 Loco' body in N...

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KLPWGCSEZ/n-1-148-furness-k2-body?optionId=66415036

 

Please read the description within.

[Knuckles]

https://www.shapeways.com/product/CPGNFLF6K/1-148-n-furness-cambrian-tender

 

Tender for the K2,& Cambrian Class 61 etc. In N, just the body here.

[Knuckles]

Recently I have also released a 3mm version of the Furness D1 / Cambrian Small Goods Class.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WVCMSYWA3/3mm-fr-d1-cambrian-sgc-basic?optionId=68180076

 

The link also has loads of other links to the accompanying items.

 

 

If any other SCC items are wanted in 3mm or in a different gauge let me know.

Edited September 11, 2018 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

 

 

Furness J1 Locomotive Body & Chimneys, Backhead Controls etc

now re-scaled into Gauge 1, both 10mm / 1:30.48 & 9.525mm / 1:32 scales.

 

10mm / 1:30.48 Gauge 1:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/K8XE73S28/10mm-gauge-1-furness-j1

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/GEDXV3XGE/g1-10mm-fr-e1-j1-backhead-controls

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/WPXFJ5UA2/g1-10mm-fr-e1-j1-d1-full-chimney-pack

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/7AZ92PKS5/g1-10mm-fr-e1-j1-backhead-controls-and-chi

 

 

9.525mm / 1:32 Gauge 1:

https://www.shapeways.com/product/U5N3SGRS5/9-5mm-gauge-1-furness-j1

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/R8KS3G82L/g1-9-5-fr-e1-j1-backhead-controls

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/M5DYX8RK5/g1-9-5mm-fr-e1-j1-d1-full-chimney-pack

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/RHMWSUFTA/g1-9-5mm-fr-e1-j1-backhead-controls-and (and...chimneys)

[Knuckles]

 

Gresley A1/A3 Reduced Loading Gauge Cabs now available. Can be used with the SCC A0 range or for normal A1/3 projects..

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/XFGWWZYS8/a0-a1-a3-cab-reduced-loading-gauge

https://www.shapeways.com/product/M79XHL3AK/a0-a1-a3-cab-exp-reduced-loading-gauge

 

 

 

 

I will have some actual modelling and 3D printed items to show you rather than just item postings. Just my modelling desk is SOOO full right now.

 

Really must get the projects finished.

 

 

---

 

J1 2-4-2T sorted, re-modelled in a few areas. 1/64, 4.76mm, S Scale.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/K82V7TFCZ/s-scale-fr-j1-fud - The smoother more crisp version. The higher resolution isn't allowed apparently due to the model size breaching the bounding box parameters. :-/

That's entirely out of my hands sadly.

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/P9NBTF4A7/s-scale-fr-j1-wsf - Cheaper one, rivets won't turn out as good

 

 

Backhead had to be separate, as it has had to be for all scales for the J1. Some details are rather chunky due to tolerances needing to be met.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/TSWXL7CAN/s-scale-fr-e1-j1-backhead-controls?key=56074de30517b67f8b36eb2d99eefbf2

 

---

 

Check out my latest Blog for some actual modelling. Simple job really, made some 3D printed sand boxes and fitted them.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/483/entry-21325-a-tale-of-two-ducks-5700-conversions-many-pics/

https://www.shapeways.com/product/TV9KA5VJE/sandboxes-gwr-5741-style?optionId=69498555

Edited September 17, 2018 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Although I have recently brought that Anycubic Photon DLP, I'm not ready to share anything on it yet.  So far things are looking good but I need more time to really get the best out of it.  That said, here is something I printed on my Robox for the N gauge Norramby layout I'm currently building. 

 

Well happy....

 

Bunged it on Shapeways too. 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/8ZY3H67RE/n-1-148-wall-with-pillars-x2?optionId=76070468

 

The photograph is representative of the Robox printed ones, could do some of these walls from here at a better price.

 

It's great to be able to designing something then print it at home, especially if scratch building structures isn't your thing.  Isn't mine!   Prefer loco or track building.

Edited November 19, 2018 by Knuckles

[Knuckles]

Ok, we are not there yet. As some of you may have got the idea from my YouTube video and a few posts around here I have brought a new 3D printer, the Anycubic Photon DLP 3D printer in an attempt to HOPEFULLY sell some of my SCC range a LOT cheaper than Shapeways can but with comparable quality.

 

I'm sure you know by now the E2-X on Shapeways in FUD/FXD, the best quality is like...erm...£100/150 just for the body shell. Other stuff costs a bomb too. https://www.shapeways.com/product/7AM533ZSJ/lb-scr-e2-extended-tanks-body-fud?optionId=57539148

 

Well, my HOPE is that I can print some things here for you without the insane prices. So far I have printed a few wagons off and apart from refinements these are turning out good. I cannot yet post them as they are for someone else although they eventually will be available.

 

However, the biggest 4mm loco shell I can fit in this printer is the E2-X V2 so it makes sense for me to try and get that printed. (A0 range might be ok if they are sliced in half)

 

I need to learn how what I can print and how to best do it, as a result I have gone through a lot of fails but what you see below is the results of my 2nd attempt. Despite it being a fail it advanced a LOT further than the first attempt.

 

The biggest issue is the sodding supports failing part way through a print, if they fail you can forget it. Wrecks the whole print 95% of the time, SOOOooooo, I'll try the thicker supports next time.

 

You can see where the supports failed at the right hand side and how the bottom of the print is all cut up looking.

 

After its alcohol (99% proof!) drink, I mean clean it is put in the UV curer.

 

The last 4 pictures show it with the supports removed, but I must stress they have not been filed smooth with the body. The scratches on the body are due to me not taking much care (as it failed) when cleaning it. Once cured they don't scratch.

 

Extra support needs to be put just under the smokebox door area as there is a baby warp but nothing big.

 

My honest opinion??? Well yes, I AM hoping to sell these once perfected as already stated, but I also do honestly believe the quality is bang on. Like seriously, it easily is as good as if not better than Shapeways FUD/FXD. There is no cleaning up of the wax supports running down things, just the filing of the pips left from removing these supports.

See for yourself....

 

 

 

They look and feel super smooth and all the rivets have turned out. Doubt smoothing will be needed, next to none if so by the evaluations so far.

 

Now, the big question is, and please answer it if you have liked my SCC output over the past few years; IF I can get these printed without the errors and so they are like the above but better, would you be willing to purchase one directly? (and other designs once perfected) The pricing isn't exactly worked out yet as resin printers have much higher running costs (they do, I'm finding that out!) but I'm looking to charge WSF type prices for FUD/FXD like quality prints. Say £55-60 or so for an E2 shell in 4mm give or take. Anyone interested or was buying the printer pointless!?

 

Seriously would like any input to this post, good or bad.

Edited November 19, 2018 by Knuckles

[micklner]

I would consider if you made items of interest to me , in this case LNER. The big problem with Railways is so many companies ,periods etc to cover. Good luck !!

[RBE]

I think the printer is great. Ironing out errors in printing is the main issue but even so the quality is as good as FUD no doubt. The added bonus is you are deali g with printing in the UK as opposed to on the continent. The price adjustments to make it worth your while given the possible print errors will probably still outweigh the outlandish postage from shapeways.

[Guy Rixon]

At £55-65 for a tank-engine body I'd consider it, if it were a type I needed and for which there wasn't a good kit. So far, your designs haven't overlapped my region and period.

 

Just a thought: there are designers on RMWeb who do good work but don't own their own printers (or not such useful printers). Are you at all interested in printing their designs?

[TurboSnail]

Just a thought: there are designers on RMWeb who do good work but don't own their own printers (or not such useful printers). Are you at all interested in printing their designs?

 

I would certainly be interested in this sort of arrangement, to cut out the middle man I currently use. My main concern would be how whether Knuckles is able to provide reprints in the case that something is not up to scratch. So far, with a professional printer doing the work, my success rate for prints is about 75% so that would represent significant extra cost. But if that all works out, it would be good.

[Corbs]

From my point of view, I'd rather the money went directly to you as the creator Gavin. Even if the print needs more prep work or whatever.

 

The selection on shapeways is great but the cost is constantly increasing and becomes less and less like A Good Deal.

Edited November 20, 2018 by Corbs

[Knuckles]

I would consider if you made items of interest to me , in this case LNER. The big problem with Railways is so many companies ,periods etc to cover. Good luck !!

Thanks for the reply. Lots of companies, oh yes, very much so. Variety is good though, makes it almost impossible to get bored.

 

I think the printer is great. Ironing out errors in printing is the main issue but even so the quality is as good as FUD no doubt. The added bonus is you are dealing with printing in the UK as opposed to on the continent. The price adjustments to make it worth your while given the possible print errors will probably still outweigh the outlandish postage from shapeways.

So far apart from the ‘scaffolding’ failing sometimes tumbling the whole castle down, the only issues seem to be micro warps, baby warps that are easy to sort out with hot water or a file. Hardly a biggy, even Shapeways FUD/FXD has them sometimes. The other seems to be some prints have a diagonal line going through where it is actually horizontal due to the printing angle. It’s looking so far like this might not be removable in the settings or ‘luck’ department. However, it is a simple job to just file and fill the area smooth, and based on how the prints are turning out so far it seems that literally is about all the smoothing and filling needed, certainly less than the usual sanding and filling ordeal you have to do with the majority of Shapeways prints.

 

Even if I never sell anything with this printer it is worth it for me to be able to get a high quality print for a fraction of the cost and not have to wait and pay for postages, but obviously the goal is to be able to provide good prices and not outlandish ones.

At £55-65 for a tank-engine body I'd consider it, if it were a type I needed and for which there wasn't a good kit. So far, your designs haven't overlapped my region and period.

 

Just a thought: there are designers on RMWeb who do good work but don't own their own printers (or not such useful printers). Are you at all interested in printing their designs?

Thanks, Micklner said similar. Truth is, most of my range is pre-Grouping or Freelance so understandable it comes into that niche if designing something for myself. The rough price idea I typed above was for this E2-X, for a lot of the other loco bodies in 4mm they would be even cheaper. I'm basically trying to nail the biggest body I can fit in the machine because in theory if this is good to go the others should be too.

….Are you at all interested in printing their designs?.....

I would certainly be interested in this sort of arrangement, to cut out the middle man I currently use. My main concern would be how whether Knuckles is able to provide reprints in the case that something is not up to scratch. So far, with a professional printer doing the work, my success rate for prints is about 75% so that would represent significant extra cost. But if that all works out, it would be good.

Very good questions and concerns. Before all your replies (with which I offer gratitude) I received a PM asking a similar thing. I’ll post below what I responded in the PM…

 

“Yeah I'd be more than willing to give it a go.

 

Initially though I need a lot of practice as all the waste, apart from learning is money down the bog.

 

I'd only be willing to take on other people's locomotives once I feel I'm competent.

 

Obviously a failed print is lost money and if I said yes to a job I wouldn't expect you would be happy paying twice if the first one failed so it is a risk to me. One I'm happy to take...but not yet.”

 

There is obviously considerable risk involved. As to quality I'd be showing many photographs fo the prints as examples so you'd know what you are getting.

 

I have printed a few things for people on my Robox Dual (RBX 02) and gone through a series of failed prints. When it happens, I just take the loss as experience, try to learn from it and move on.

Resin printers are more expensive, not just for the resin but I’m already surprised at how fast I go through the Isopropanol, however this isn’t a major issue really. If/when I print some one else’s design, if it goes pee- tong I’d do a free reprint, if it proved impossible, I’d refund and again take it as a loss with experience. This is why the answer is yes I’d consider it but not yet! I need to perfect my own designs first and I’d need to see your SLT file and have good inspection to see if I think the risk would be viable or not.

From my point of view, I'd rather the money went directly to you as the creator Gavin. Even if the print needs more prep work or whatever.

 

The selection on shapeways is great but the cost is constantly increasing and becomes less and less like A Good Deal.

Thanks, Corbs. Well, so far it seems you’d get a FUD/FXD like quality for a fraction of the usual cost and you’d have significantly LESS clean up needed based on the few prints I’ve done. I have also thought of doing what Shapeways briefly did with their BHDA trial; offer things with and without supports. That way I could basically offer less as I wouldn’t be clipping and filing things to perfection.

 

-

Thanks for all your replies, I’m printing the same loco now as I type, currently at 22% with the thick supports this time.

 

Please…….!

Edited November 20, 2018 by Knuckles

[JCL]

Hi there, I think you're doing a great job! The fact that you've progressed to something complicated like a locomotive [on your printer] so quickly is impressive.

 

When you sort out your prices you ought to take into account not only the cost of the supports, but also the cost of the uncured resin that doesn't quite get dripped back into the vat, and a percentage of the cost of the failures. I think you'll still come in a lot less than Shapeways.

 

I've a different make and model, but I've found that the prints are incredibly fine compared to Shapeways. On one print I had from my printer, the surface finish was so good that, what I thought was build lines, was in fact me specify a cylinder without insufficient sides*. The only prep needed after removing the scaffolding is the sanding of the little nubs where they were attached to the body. Sometimes this can be minimized by putting the scaffolding in hard to see place. Of course, this isn't always possible. And of course, you're not worrying about cleaning off all of that almond oil.

 

If you did do other people's models don't forget to take into account the time it takes to check the model and create the supports. If you do do it and want too expand in the future, here's a website that also enables that sort of work. https://www.3dhubs.com/

 

More power to your elbow sunbeam.

 

J

 

* For people who haven't got into 3D modelling, a cylinder isn't a true cylinder but a series of flat planes along the length of the object arranged in a circle, the more planes you have the finer the appearance, the bigger the file and possibly the longer it takes to print. A cylinder with 4 planes along its length is a box

 

Edited to add the text in the brackets

Edited November 21, 2018 by JCL

[Knuckles]

Thanks JCL, I'm a bit iffy with 3D hubs. I uploaded a model for someone to print, turned down the quote and then later find (via Quarryscapes on here) the model on the front page of ANOTHER hub as a promotional.

 

Upon questioning the hub I got a load of gob back, after going through official complaint lines I basically got told to bugg-r off because the information I saught was protected by their privacy policy crap.

 

So as you can see, first impression was amazing and I won't touch it now.

 

Seems internal trading or giving away of meshes happens. Removing all the bumf, my 3D mesh/design was stolen so how much money they may have made off it only they know.

 

With accounting costs I currently can only estimate. Once the STL file has been sliced it gives a pretty accurate build time estimation but no idea on resin costs.

 

However, as I'm currently building my own designs and they are mostly shells I have a good idea.

 

Alcohol is getting used up quickly, then there are the cone filters and FEP sheets that get consumed but again it isn't worrying me. At the moment, based on what they cost, adding a set amount on to every estimation likely will cover those for when they need replacing.

 

3rd time lucky! It printed.

 

There is the same diagonal line that I seem to get on almost every print and I'm unsure if these can be printed without it, however, smoothing it is a simple file/paper rub with primer as is usual. Blemishes aside MUCH less clean up needed than FUD.

 

A few supports still failed but nothing significant, there are minor warps on the edges of the buffer beams but I do mean minor.

 

A few passes with a file would sort them or if you were really picky a bit of milliput sculpted there would be a quick fix. However repeated print setting tweaks may eliminate these issues.

 

The tank extensions also have a baby warp yet a couple more supports will cure that.

 

Overall I'm happy, even the cab controls turned out well.

 

I'll have some pics later when I get time.

Edited November 21, 2018 by Knuckles

[TurboSnail]

Thanks JCL, I'm a bit iffy with 3D hubs. I uploaded a model for someone to print, turned down the quote and then later find (via Quarryscapes on here) the model on the front page of ANOTHER hub as a promotional.

 

Upon questioning the hub I got a load of gob back, after going through official complaint lines I basically got told to bugg-r off because the information I saught was protected by their privacy policy crap.

 

So as you can see, first impression was amazing and I won't touch it now.

 

I use 3Dhubs, so I try and use UK-based hubs with non-disclosure agreements to lower the risk, but I'm still not 100% happy about it, hence why I'd rather move to someone else or set up on my own (but that's a bit pricey for me).

[ChrisN]

Gavin,

I would be happy to buy from you.  I still have a couple of Albions to get, and at least two, if not three small goods locos.  I have not rushed to buy as my time for modelling has crashed over the past few months and although I expected to be building locos next year, I am at least two years behind.  I would have bought a Small Goods at Christmas, (my family have to buy me something don't they?) but I will hold off until you are selling.  Then I will buy.

[MikeTrice]

Alcohol is getting used up quickly

Just printing?

[Knuckles]

Gavin,

I would be happy to buy from you.  I still have a couple of Albions to get, and at least two, if not three small goods locos.  I have not rushed to buy as my time for modelling has crashed over the past few months and although I expected to be building locos next year, I am at least two years behind.  I would have bought a Small Goods at Christmas, (my family have to buy me something don't they?) but I will hold off until you are selling.  Then I will buy.

Thanks for your interest. I will say though, right at the moment I can't guarantee I can print them. I need a good bit of time practicing with the Photon finding what I can print and how to best go about it. All this, when they turn out to be fails costs me, although that is needed at this early stage no doubt. I'd be happy to move on to testing some of the Furness & Cambrian stuff once I've (hopefully) nailed the E2's as best as I think possible but I can't promise I'll be printing everything. Also there is just me doing everything and I not constantly at home on the printer so there would likely be a lead time of 3-14 days or so before I could get stuff done. Indeed, some things won't even fit on the tray!

 

 

Just printing?

Yeah, I wouldn't drink it. Heard too many negatives about that one. Seems a bit risky, mind you when I was in the army the medics seemed quite proud in telling us they used to inject vodka into their veins so maybe they would be up for it.

I do drink the odd whisky or wheat beer at the desk though...nom nom.

 

------------------------

 

Ok so the interesting bit, 1st attempt, 2nd followed by the third...

...looks almost like prize winners on a podium.

 

As you can see some supports still failed although not to the detriment of the whole print thankfully. We got there.

 

As mentioned on the above post I made earlier there are a few warps and blemishes but overall I'm happy.

 

After clipping the supports and making a right royal mess of the desk...

 

 

These haven't all been smoothed off, but this is likely how you'd receive them.

 

I'd get rid of the worst and smooth some off but you'd have to fine tune things.

Or....leave you to remove the supports at a discount like Shapeways eventually offered??

 

This body with current settings took just shy of 8 hours to print, and that is without the time it takes me to set things up

and once printed complete the process and clean up.

 

Bad points:

The corners of the buffer beam are a bit curled up. The lever handle in the cab and the small protrusions around the cab beading are a wee warped although maybe something can be done here, either in the settings or remedial modelling. The regulator handle printed but I snapped one half off when removing the internal supports. A bit of filing action or additive modelling with Milliput will sort the buffer beam etc out and although I am trying to iron these creases out I can't yet guarantee I'll be able 100% despite trying.

There is that diagonal line that I have been getting in most prints and I am unsure if I can get it out. I read online there are at least 10 reasons that can cause them. However, to remove said lines you use a file, some sand paper and primer like usual. Good news is, although the support 'nipples' and said blemishes need some rework, it is still much less work than Shapeways clean up of FUD/FXD. In my experience it is.

 

Good points: Smooth as a babies bum with crisp details. The polygon lines on the boiler and dome base are visible which tells me I could do with revising the mesh...one day. That said, primer and sand paper is much quicker!

 

Speaking of primer.

 

Here is the model with a blast of primer. I haven't been smoothing it, other than the diagonal lines on the tank side that I had a quick smoothing rubbing over to 'feel' them, this is how the model looked 5 minutes after primed...

 

 

 

Any good?

 

Quibbles aside I'm really impressed.

I WANT to get things perfect for anyone who would want things but currently I don't know what is or is not fixable. Would things at the current level be acceptable to anyone if things can't improve? Less clean up and smoothing required than a Shapeways print, way cheaper...you're modellers right?

This seems to me like we are looking at Shapeways BHDA again but with much better sanding capabilities.

 

Currently trying for an N gauge version as after returning from work (not full time I might add, scraping it) I don't have 8-9 hours to wait for another print...not unless I want to ignore sleeping.

[brack]

Just thinking aloud - the diagonal line, is there something on the threaded rod that presumably raises the thing out of the tank? That'd account for it juddering or missing a layer every time?

 

Other than that it looks pretty good, certainly excellent for home printing.

[Knuckles]

I don't know.  Will have a look at the rod and see.  I know when I first recieved it there was a massive blob of grease in one place and not much else where it evidently had been sitting in storage.  I rubbed that all around but maybe there is still a thick bit.

 

N gauge E2s......

 

 

.... Created a goo monster.

 

FAIL!