Family 8x4 OO layout - Trains running again.

[Jaggzuk]

I think we can class this Christmas blockage as being completed on time. I still have the wiring to do, installation of all the point motors and copper clad track board joints for the lifting sections, but the track is now all cut to length and connected together and trains are running!!
 

The completed fiddle yard, with hinged section in the foreground

 

Double track approach with Programming track spur.
 

General view
 

New double main line track on the scenic side
 

Lots of stock space now
 

Plenty of finger space between each road, which I wanted.


During the build, I was rather surprised to find the Class 08 arriving at the station having just been sent though the fiddle yard by my eldest son, upon which I said, "how did you do that", to which he replied "I just did". He had found a route with connected track and just drove a train through!!. So I was very pleased to find at the end of the track build that even without any DCC wire droppers, all the track was live when the points are set in the right direction off the main scenic board.

Two of the priorities of the fiddle yard build was to try to use only scrap timber I had stored and to use up all the spare track left from the main 8x4 build. I managed both. The result is that the track plan looks a bit odd a I had lots of R2 curves but I manged to use them all up.

The final plan has 3 through roads and 4 sidings, two in each direction. The top two are separated by the timber beam and will mainly be used for DMUs as they are very difficult to get to do do any uncoupling. I also had one spare old settrack point which I have used to lead to a short spur, which will be a dedicated programming track/loco stabling point. The two longest roads allow for an eight coach train and loco to be stored.

The final track layout

There is quite bit of baseboard space left for placing "stuff" on when forming trains. the result is a much better space for playing trains.

Really pleased with the the result and it has transformed the play time, with one of us on the station side and other in the fiddle yard pit forming trains up. I even found an extension lead for on of the the handheld controllers which reaches the "pit".

My plan will be to have a traditional probe and contact control panel for the fiddle yard points in the pit but also Peco point levers on the main lever frame. Some form of LED indicators will be required to show the routes set.

Next, fix ther track properly....

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

Two years to the day I posted this shot!

 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Powerhaul 70 Pey]

Some fantastic progress there over the Christmas holidays.  Looks like the Orange Army have done a great job.  

[LongRail]

Looking good.

 

I used stainless steel ball hinges with ball bearings in them for my hinged section as they have little or no play in them, you can always replace the ones you have if you encounter any problems. They are more expensive than a standard pair of hinges but they quality is much better

[Tug002]

Two years to the day I posted this shot!

 

01 IMGP0058.JPG

Oh well,at least you hang on to your photos in the long term - I certainly do,I've still got the very first photos I took back in April 2010 at age 8.Two years?Here's to the next 2...

[nicolasgreenin]

This is fantastic progress. In the last few weeks and the last 2 years. The fiddle yard will make the running possibilities endless and allow you to store the rolling stock

[rogerv]

I think we can class this Christmas blockage as being completed on time. I still have the wiring to do, installation of all the point motors and copper clad track board joints for the lifting sections, but the track is now all cut to length and connected together and trains are running!!

 

 

image_2017_12_FY-3.jpg

The completed fiddle yard, with hinged section in the foreground

 

image_2017_12_FY-4.jpg

Double track approach with Programming track spur.

 

image_2017_12_FY-5.jpg

General view

 

image_2017_12_ML-4.jpg

New double main line track on the scenic side

 

image_2017_12_FY-6.jpg

Lots of stock space now

 

image_2017_12_FY-7.jpg

Plenty of finger space between each road, which I wanted.

 

 

During the build, I was rather surprised to find the Class 08 arriving at the station having just been sent though the fiddle yard by my eldest son, upon which I said, "how did you do that", to which he replied "I just did". He had found a route with connected track and just drove a train through!!. So I was very pleased to find at the end of the track build that even without any DCC wire droppers, all the track was live when the points are set in the right direction off the main scenic board.

 

Two of the priorities of the fiddle yard build was to try to use only scrap timber I had stored and to use up all the spare track left from the main 8x4 build. I managed both. The result is that the track plan looks a bit odd a I had lots of R2 curves but I manged to use them all up.

 

The final plan has 3 through roads and 4 sidings, two in each direction. The top two are separated by the timber beam and will mainly be used for DMUs as they are very difficult to get to do do any uncoupling. I also had one spare old settrack point which I have used to lead to a short spur, which will be a dedicated programming track/loco stabling point. The two longest roads allow for an eight coach train and loco to be stored.

 

layout final.jpg

The final track layout

 

There is quite bit of baseboard space left for placing "stuff" on when forming trains. the result is a much better space for playing trains.

 

Really pleased with the the result and it has transformed the play time, with one of us on the station side and other in the fiddle yard pit forming trains up. I even found an extension lead for on of the the handheld controllers which reaches the "pit".

 

My plan will be to have a traditional probe and contact control panel for the fiddle yard points in the pit but also Peco point levers on the main lever frame. Some form of LED indicators will be required to show the routes set.

 

Next, fix ther track properly....

 

"One of us on the station side and the other on the fiddle yard".  Haven't you forgotten someone?!  And in the meantime, after telling myself "no more tweaking" I believe I have finally frozen the track plan.  Next step - superimpose the terrain contouring, with a view to mocking up a 1:4 scale model to see if it really "looks right"!  BTW, really chuffed to see you made use of the Superquick engine shed ... 

 

Happy New Year!  Roger.

[Jaggzuk]

Nop not forgotten he's driving trains and generally running round the layout making all the sound effects!!  In all this, I am trying to be the signalman and keeping the collisions and derailments to a minimum.  The fiddle yard has added a new level of concentration, especially while we still have manually operated points.  The next task is to get the point motors prepped ready for installation.

 

The engine shed you sent me is a great additions and was a fun build.  It has really enhanced what was a very small single track loco stabling point.  Now we have a really good sized MPD.  So thanks for the kit Roger.  Hope to get on with the others soon.

[Jaggzuk]

Started the task of fixing all the track in the fiddle yard, installing point motors and creating baseboard joints in the track. 

 

 

Never done one of these before, so we shall see how well if stand up to abuse.  This one is for the hinged lifting section that will allow me to walk in to the fiddle yard pit (the boys just scoot under the baseboard).

 

I shall be creating a second control panel for the fiddle yard pit which will allow control of all the fiddle yard points as key main line points on the scenic layout.  This panel will be push button rather then Peco levers, just to create a bit of variety and give the boys some different forms of operation.  I will be double wiring all the duel controlled points so that they can be operated from either control panel.  This is where the under baseboard connector blocks I used at the location of each point will be really useful.

 

Long way to go and lots of soldering to do, especially as I intend to have LEDs on the control panel schematic track plan to indicate the route setting for each point.

 

Also got myself on of these to help with airbrush work - £52 off ebay.  Looks very good, well designed and hopefully a good investment.  All packs away into itself (excluding extractor hose) to create a neat carry box.

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[andi4x4]

Those extractor/filter things are great - I picked up a second hand one, along with a 2 ltr reservoir compressor, three good quality airbrushes and a shed load of accessories, all virtually unused, for £90 last christmas from a chap who tried to get into airbrushing but decided it wasn't for him !

 

Bargain of the century !

[Jaggzuk]

Kids off school, something to do with some cold white stuff ;-0  So it gave us time to have a guest streamlined A4 visit Foxwood Park from a school friend.  A very nice line up on Platform 1 and 2 just before guest 60022 in immaculately turned out BR Green led the way with a nice rake of Gresley teak coaches in Crimson and Cream.  This was followed by 4468 taking a mixed rake of ex virgin mark 3s and Maroon Mk1s.

 

Obviously this line up never happen in real life, I wonder why ;-)

 

I really liked the level of detail on the Hornby's 60022 which was very noticeable against our 4468 railroad version.  The corridor coal tender and the cab detail was great.  A very nice model indeed, not going too green here!

 

The boys had a great time racing the 2 A4s, which I have to say look great together.  Wallet twitching!!!

 

The A4 line-up on platform 1 and 2, ready for departure.

 

60022 takes the branch line to go over Pendip East Junction flyover, with 4468 ready for the main line into Stag Tunnel passing under Fox Hill Farm.

Edited March 3, 2018 by Jaggzuk

[Jaggzuk]

Not much to report after the Easter break but there has been lots of playing trains, which is great.

 

A few more wagons have Kadee couplings and we have made some Parkside kits together.  We also tried out the new airbrush spray booth, 

which was great and now means we can airbrush indoors without fear of weathering the whole room.  I have also had a moment to try out some photos of one of my favourite views across the layout of the lower goods yard

 

An Airfix 1/72 Hunting Percival Jet Provost kit reviving its nice shiny red coat.

 

Views across the lower goods yard with the Class 08 stabled after having shunted a trip freight for unloading.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[LongRail]

Spray booths are good but you should really invest in good quality face masks as the fumes will not all be exracted

[Jaggzuk]

Cheers LongRail for the advice. So apart from the airborne paint particles would this still be advisble for water based paints? I guess for small lungs it is good advice.

 

I shall aim to use the extractor pipe connected to a window when using thinner based paints.

[LongRail]

I assume you mean acrylics and yes you get minute airborne particles you can breath in if you use acrylic thinners it contains material other than water which is ideal for spraying as it dries quicker. I think you will find that acrylic paint in pots contains some kind of thinners, I know some colours seperate over time and you can see that it not just water,

 

You will need something better than a cheap card type mask as these are not suitable for filtering such fine particles I use a mask resperator which has replacement filters, you need a filter suitable for paint fumes such as these

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jsp-force-8-paint-filters-a1-p2/68192

 

I don’t know what would fit the children and they may find them a bit heavy to wear

 

I grew up as a child using Humbrol enamel,paints but now use acrylics for brush painting typically. But find enamel give a far superior finish When spraying .

 

As an additional thought I also use protective latex gloves to keep spray off my hands as it can get right into the skin

[LongRail]

Cheers LongRail for the advice. So apart from the airborne paint particles would this still be advisble for water based paints? I guess for small lungs it is good advice.

I shall aim to use the extractor pipe connected to a window when using thinner based paints.

I always use the external pipe out of a window when using any type of paint. I don’t think the type of spray both in the photo is intended to be used without the pipe. I use the same spray booth by the way.

[Cardy]

Hi Paul, 

 

Love the layout and the detail you have put into it it looks fantastic. 

 

I'm just starting a layout for my two children (boy & girl both 5) and have been looking for an interesting track design and am very interested in emulating parts of yours.

 

I'm limited to an 8x4 board but would love to fit in a turn table which I have from my old layout when I was younger so i'm going to have to spend a few more hours playing with layouts on scarm to figure out whats possible. 

 

Really enjoyed reading through everything you have been doing and bookmarked loads of it as there are some really great tips in there.

 

Lee

[Jaggzuk]

Cheers Lee.  A bit shocked that is has been over a year since my last post!!  That is not to say the layout has stood still, well scenically it has, but it is played with most days & weeks by the boys (and myself) and some of thier buddies come round and join in the fun too.

 

Usual excuse on progress, too many other projects on the go, plus a bit of a lost mo-jo!  But it is odd to read your post as today I spent a bit of time making some ballast loads using Vermiculite (a trial material due to it being a very lightweight material ) with my eldest we had some loft over PVA/Water mix glue, so ended up doing some ballasting; about 2 x 1/4 radius worth.  Mo-jo sprung back into life, still too many projects on the go ha ha.

 

As for the layout, I think the key thing which has been proven to me over the last year is that a finished layout is not important for kids, but a layout where trains can be run and all the track electrics are complete is the most important aspect.  Their imagination fills in the gaps.

 

I keep getting asked for a turntable, which might one-day get added to the fiddle yard board.  Might use it as an excuse to play with motors and gear with the boys.

 

If you want my SCARM plans, let me know, no worries about sharing it.

 

All the best with the plan and build.

[Rotate]

This is a brilliant layout (and it's also my first post !!) This is the sort of inspiration I need to change my layout from somthing which is flat, plain, bland and any other words to describe something in one dimension. My board is 8' x 4' and was made for me in a folding design. There is an edging piece all the way round to stop things flying off measuring 1cm wide x 4cm high (totalling 8cms when folded together) - Would this layout/design allow for ANY kind of shallow gradient anywhere in the layout (thinking of an overbridge) or is this a step too far ?

Many thanks

Paul

[Jaggzuk]

Hi Paull, Thanks for the post.  My layout topic has been very quiet, in the main, as I have not done any further building for over a year now!  But the layout is still played with most days by my 2 boys (and me ;-) ).  Just other commitments have taken my creative time.

 

With regards to your question, not 100% sure if you are wanting a new whole new layout or to modify your current one?  Either way, gradients need a lot of space to a) look good and b) are shallow enough to allow most locos to drive up them. 

 

The key element of my layout is that I achieved the overbridge height by creating gradients which go both ways, positive and negative 2% grades.  That means my ground level is actually +40mm up from the baseboard.  This may create an issue for you and your folding layout baseboard.

 

Also, I have nothing less than 2nd radius curves.

 

Let me know what you are thinking, but perhaps start your own Layout Topic and then we can all help out with ideas and advice.

 

 

[Cwheels]

Hi Paul, 

I found your layout after browsing for inspiration for a design which I would find satisfying and challenging to build and would be endless entertainment for 2 small, train-mad kids. 
I've since binge-read the entire design and build threads and I must say it seems a brilliant layout and its been a really inspiring read. 

 

I'd love to replicate what you've achieved to some degree but my space is limited and N gauge will be my only option.

I believe I can replicate the curves required on a 2 & 1/2 by 5' base but my nervousness is around the gradients on the curves.

 

Are your gradients 2 or 3%? 

 

If I've done my calculations right, at 2% the clearances at the crossover feel tighter than it looks like you've achieved, but a little reading has warned me off going over 2% . I realise I'm considering a different scale but I understand the gradients are all relative.

Thanks
Chris

[Jaggzuk]

Hi Paul, Thanks for the comment. 

 

My two boys (and me) still enjoy playing trains on the layout.  But I keep getting grief that it is not finished and there is too much bare cork on view!

 

I am sure the track plan will scale down to N Gauge fine.  But best plan it out on paper or track planning software

 

The grades are 2% max, but I do not know that the suggested max gradient in N Gauge is.  Not that I split the up and down grades the from a +40mm ground level.  This halved any distance required to pass tracks over each other.

 

There is nothing I would change on the original track plan, but obviously I expanded out of the 8x4 by adding the fiddle yard extension.  A real benefit for multi train running and stock storage

 

[Jaggzuk]

Current OMWB (COVID Lockdown evenings) projects:

 

Conversion to Hunt Couplings for fixed rake stock - see https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/151728-hunt-coupling-system/

 

Great close coupling now achived on Bachmann Mk1s with Hunt Couplings.

 

OK on 2nd and 3rd radius curves

 

And as I have had to buy an Inkjet printer to work at home and provide Home School material, I can now start some PDF print buildings.  First for the layout is the Scalescenes Island Station Building.  I have added lighting (from ex Christmas tree LED lights) and I am planning to extend the canopy over columns on one side. I had to modify the kit to accommodate the curved platform. 

 

 

 

Use of copper wire to act as a Bus for the LEDs which have been soldered in parallel

 

 

I really liked the kit and it has gone together well.  Happy with the Inkjet print too which I done on to several sheets of a single sized A4 self adhesive label.  This saved on gluing time and has also stopped the card from curving when the glue dries.  But I did buy a rubber brayer printing roller to help fix the label on to card.

[Jaggzuk]

Aside from new buildings, I have slowly been converting my wagons and coaches that have Tension Lock Hook couplings to a new coupling system.  At the beginning of COVID Lockdown I discovered the magnetic Hunt Coupling system.  After an initial trail where I was impressed with the reliability, better close coupling and the much improved visual aspect, I have now decide to go for a full convert with a mix of Kadee and Hunt.

 

 

 

 

 

See Link-Hunt Coupling System topic for details and I have posted some of my recent conversions from pg 5 onwards.

Edited September 8, 2022 by Jaggzuk

[Vecchio]

Did you use the uncoupling feature of the Kadees? I think this is one of their big advantages. 

There are of course also continental systems which are less visible (not to say less ugly) as the tension couplers. 

Depends on the age of your stock - where you have NEM pockets a conversion is easy. Where not you need some engineering which shouldn't be a problem if I look up your thread...