Jump to content
 

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Northroader said:

Thank you, James. Yes, it is an E class, for which I did the intro a page or two ago before I got into wagons. I haven’t seen a model of one in green, which is a pity, they tend to appear in the GSR/CIE charcoal grey, but agreed, they do look just right for a pregroup branch line.

 

Sorry, I missed the intro, so I'll go back.

 

I'm assuming green pre-1905, and perhaps some might have received the short-lived blue?  I don't know if the lining schemes differed between liveries, because otherwise identification from B&W pictures would be difficult. 

 

Did the MGWR go back to green 1908 to 1925?

 

Anyway, a green one with brown short coaches, still oil-lit, really makes for a great pre-Group branch train. 

  • Like 1
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
3 minutes ago, Northroader said:

With the examples of the CR/NBR stations you give, Jim, didn’t they have minefields and watchtowers half way along?

 

Wasn't that more of a CR/G&SWR thing?

  • Agree 2
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Ref, your enquiry on liveries, James, in my MGWR “bible”, quote: “Nothing is known of the earliest livery, but by 1889 emerald green was being used with black and white lining.” The old boy, Atock, retired in 1900, and his successor Cusack tried “royal blue, lined with yellow and red lines.” “this being applied to passenger engines... goods engines were unlined blue” “This livery was not very serviceable and by 1905 a grass green was being applied. This lasted until 1913 when black became the standard colour”, so there is a possibility that an E could have been blue for a time.

edit: p.s. you can get the modern version of that kit, in etched brass, from Tyrconnell Models.

Edited by Northroader
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Caley Jim said:

You don't have to have 'might have beens'.  There was Morningside (Lanarkshire):

image.png.529cd89a68bab1b41bf7eba54720d8b6.png

CR station to the south, NBR to the north.

Dolphinton :

image.png.cdd40b4b9df943f18e37f173500f2b3d.png

CR to the west, NB to the east

And Peebles :

image.png.41bb5415f436af88c9774fa789c8464d.png

 

CR to the south west, NB at the north east.  The embankment across St Ninian's Haugh is still there as a footpath.

 

Jim

 

Coleford FOD was also an example I forget now whether the link was there when it was S&W and GWR or was only put in once the GWR took over the S&W.

 

Don

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
9 minutes ago, Donw said:

the GWR took over the S&W.

 

Ahem. The Midland and the Great Western jointly took over the S&W.

 

When John Ellis bagged the Birmingham & Bristol companies from under the Great Western's nose, he came quite close to snaffling the Bristol & Exeter too. Think on that, ye Wessy types!

  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
4 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Ahem. The Midland and the Great Western jointly took over the S&W.

 

When John Ellis bagged the Birmingham & Bristol companies from under the Great Western's nose, he came quite close to snaffling the Bristol & Exeter too. Think on that, ye Wessy types!

Gosh, - I've come over all faint and I have to sit down for a moment.

  • Agree 1
  • Funny 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 21/04/2021 at 22:03, Northroader said:

... “Bat” 0-6-0T .... 

The class were built for the Midland Great Western Railway, designated as “E” class, for branch line duties, particularly the Western Extensions just opening, also termed a “light” tank, as distinct from the “heavy” tank, a larger 0-6-0T working freight up the grades from the Dublin docks at North Wall to join the MGWR main line at Liffey Junction. There were 12 in all, three from Sharp Stewart in 1890, nine from Kitsons 1891-3. In keeping with MGWR practice at that time, they all had names, “Bat” being one of the names. The MGWR numbers were 106-117. They were roughly the size of a Brighton Terrier, and their light weight meant that the GSR found them quite handy. They were renumbered 551-562, and designated class J26. A few helped out on the DSER section Dublin suburban services, some were trundled through the streets of Waterford for the W&T section, and a couple went off down to the fascinating area West of Cork Albert Quay, they didn’t get scrapped until 1954-63, after full lives, so a couple of pictures, one in the prime of a MGWR branch, and one on the Courtmacsherry line towards the end.

285FC4D6-A73B-4429-A980-362F153E7D33.jpeg.2c543b950e29c24d6f98d0c22481b099.jpegD17E3EE6-E81B-474C-9846-E341973FCF88.jpeg.966d91aa5afc0c321e0d93a974609ff9.jpeg

 

Aha! 

 

Wheels I read are 4'6'' dia.  Wonder what the w/b measurements are.

 

835577531_MGWREClass.jpg.0dc22cc2fd957d40aaa1d659a4ab64bf.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Wasn't that more of a CR/G&SWR thing?

Indeed!  The NB were the competition, the Sou' West were the enemy!!

 

Jim

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, Northroader said:

Then the Wessy took the Shrewsbury lines from out of the Premier line clutches, an even better thing to be grateful For?

I always thought “Wessy” was a moniker for the LNWR, coming from a largely Wessy town.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
37 minutes ago, Regularity said:

I always thought “Wessy” was a moniker for the LNWR, coming from a largely Wessy town.

 

Yes, I think that's right. I believe I've seen it used for either. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
5 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Ahem. The Midland and the Great Western jointly took over the S&W.

 

When John Ellis bagged the Birmingham & Bristol companies from under the Great Western's nose, he came quite close to snaffling the Bristol & Exeter too. Think on that, ye Wessy types!

 

You are quite right but I think the GWR was looking after track matters. However the connection in the siding was made in 1885 and the GWR branch from Wyesham was closed in 1916 except for a bit from Coleford to Whitcliff which perforce was serviced from the S&W joint.

 

Don

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
14 hours ago, Edwardian said:

Wheels I read are 4'6'' dia.  Wonder what the w/b measurements are.

 

funnily enough I have a scale drawing from a 1976 Model Railways magazine open on my workbench at the moment so 6'3" + 7'0"

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Leinster Models also ran a kit for the NER “E” 0-6-0t  (J72 if I remember right?) in their range. 6’6” +7’2” W/B, 4’7” wheels, so very likely a common chassis. Get a “Joem” and do a minimal amount of tweaking and you’re there.

edit: while I’m at it, Leinster also did the L&Y 0-6-0 saddletanks, the Aspinall rebuilds of all the Barton Wright goods engines, 7’3” +7’9” W/B, 4’6” wheels, which is rather more of an approximation, so probably a different chassis?

Edited by Northroader
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Northroader said:

Leinster Models also ran a kit for the NER “E” 0-6-0t  (J72 if I remember right?) in their range. 6’6” +7’2” W/B, 4’7” wheels, so very likely a common chassis. Get a “Joem” and do a minimal amount of tweaking and you’re there.

edit: while I’m at it, Leinster also did the L&Y 0-6-0 saddletanks, the Aspinall rebuilds of all the Barton Wright goods engines, 7’3” +7’9” W/B, 4’6” wheels, which is rather more of an approximation, so probably a different chassis?

 

Diameter         Wheelbase       Locomotive    

4’7 ¼”                 6’6” + 7’1”          NER Class 44 0-6-0T                                                                            

4’7 ¼”                 6’6” + 7’2”          NER Class E (LNER J71) 0-6-0T 

4’1 ¼”                 6’8” + 7’             NER Class E1 (LNER J72) 0-6-0T            

 

  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

One job I’m doing at present is making a new backscene support for Washbourne, as with the chopping and changing over a year ago the old one was shifted round. I paint my backscenes on cartridge paper and this is clipped to a hardboard sheet for support. The hardboard is supported in turn by battens which bolt on to the rear longitude of the baseboard frame. The frame has square corners, but the rear corners of the baseboard top are rounded to a four inch radius. The backscene is carried round these corners to fill the ends of the baseboard and stop at the front. I start from one end, and measure to where the radius begins and ends, and this is marked out on a 3mm hardboard sheet. The sheet is a bit longer than I need, and it is trimmed to a height of 16.5”. My wife thinks it should be higher, but as I’m in a loft, I have an inward sloping ceiling, and an increase in height would push the layout further forwards. The marks I make are extended upwards vertically square to the lower edge, and this gives me the area which needs to be curved. Then it gets a good soak outside in the waterbutt, immersing the sheet from the end to the innermost mark. It needs to be soaked for 6-7 hours, then lifted out and placed on edge to drain off for a quarter hour before it comes indoors. I use some pieces of ply or melamine shelving to form a sandwich round the hardboard immediately up to the marked lines, and clamp this up solid. Then it is very gently bent to the required curve, watching that there are no layers flaking off on the outside face of the curve. The prolonged soaking it has had should have been enough to prevent that, anything less might give problems. It should be soft enough to try to apply local pressure to true up the curve by eye. Then I place it with support to hold the shape, and leave it to dry out for a day and a half before the clamps and sandwich are removed, then leave it to dry out thoroughly and harden off for about the same time again.  After this it’s move along the back to the next corner, and once this is done the far end can be trimmed to the right size. The rear face of the backscene is full height, overlapping the back of the baseboard, but the curves and the ends are trimmed to clear the baseboard.6FBD81E4-5E8B-4A4D-89D6-A13EE6959648.jpeg.856ed2b0da7705fa5a937d5b154e59c1.jpeg

  • Like 8
  • Informative/Useful 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

That looks very light for hardboard to me is this the normals stuff or something you get especially.  I have been pondering my options as I want something light and removeable but it also needs to cover some baseboards that are 11ft 8in long with 2ft and 2ft 6in sides. The problem then is joins in the sky which do rather destroy the realism. One thing with short boards, you can place a large tree where the backscenes join to cover it. With high boards the tree would look to silly if that tall.

It has occurred to me that if the backscene was in two parts one being the hills cut along the top with a second part of plain sky behind it, whether I could use a roll of paper of canvass just painted with sky. Haven't worked out how to support it yet. 

I do find your painted backscenes set the scene very well and give a sense of place, whether the South Downs or New England.

 

Don

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

It’s the stuff stocked at the local orange shed, Don, described as “3mm hardboard”, and I think  it’s quite good for this application. There are supporting battens glued to the back, 18” - 24” intervals. You could have one for each short board, then a roll of paper across the lot. I just clip it along the top edge with brass clips, and tuck the lower edge at the back into the join between the back and the board. Currently I’ve got four scenes waiting to be painted.

Edited by Northroader
  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

In an update, I removed the sandwiches off the second curve this morning. The first end fits snugly just where it should, but the other end comes out just an inch short of where it should be. I’ve had this happen before, it’s hard to get the curves exact first time. All that’s needed is to mark out the start of the correction, which looks to be around a third of the way round the curve, extended soak up to the mark, and reset the rest of the curve. The beauty of this method and material is that you can soak, set the curve, dryout, and repeat as many times as you want to get it right.

edit: just adding a picture to show what I need to correct. I need to add more of a curve where the rough pencil marks are, so that the end on the left is moved away from where I am.BF63B9B8-0091-4EC3-A4DB-9D6818B00F16.jpeg.3a5ed2322ad06551459c379851324e35.jpeg

Edited by Northroader
  • Like 4
  • Informative/Useful 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

I note from the last photo it's rough side inwards. Does it bend better that way, or would having the smooth side inwards work just as well? I tend to paint direct on the backscene board so would prefer smooth side inwards.

  • Like 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I had success with a 4-hour soaking of hardboard in a very hot bath on a warm day, then clamping in situ to get the curve I wanted.

6CD41F37-4079-4796-81F1-9EC666A950B7.jpeg.c1e93d060ab88ce267ec9245615152d7.jpeg

A6F484E8-54BF-4B26-90CD-5D42706D2A1D.jpeg.2fa6934848f4c93e66909a15f7156e43.jpeg

Edited by Regularity
Smooth side inwards, Jordan!
  • Like 8
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Very perspicacious, Jordan, actually I set it all up in the clamps, then started to curve it, without noticing  which side was which, and, blow me! didn’t spot I’d got the rough side on the inside of the curve until I unclamped it a couple of days later. Usually I do as you, and put the smooth side inwards, but as I’m not painting the surface, it will do just as well. Must be more aware of what I’m up to.

  • Friendly/supportive 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

If looking for an appropriate name for a firm of Irish solicitors, the real firm of Argue and Phibbs was based inSligo townuntil, I understand, 1944. A short account is on sligotown.net, and elsewhere.

 

Mr Sean Hannigan of Mallarkey and Co., on the other hand, assures me that his family firm, based in Donnybrook, but with a branch office in Blarney, was invented by Mr D. O’Gill for the Irish Tourist Board and is entirely fictitious.

 

”Combe” is not an ending I have ever seen on an Irish place name. The best way to find a name that suits your part of the country probably on the Ordnance Survey of Ireland web map, map.geohive.ie - hours of fun looking at old track plans on the historic map sheets. If you want a translation, logainm.ie should provide. (That’s Irish for “place name”.) Bally in Ulster becomes Bal elsewhere and is a town. Dun is a fort. Kil is usually a church, but may be a wood. Derry isn’t an oak wood. For something more exotic, try Lis which is a fairy fort, as in Lisduff, Lismore or Lispole. Rath is also a fort. Moy is rare, but means a plain. Ath  is a ford. Owen or Owna is a river. Bel is the mouth of a river, usually. Ros is a fort too. Make your own by using one of the above with a person’s name after it. 

 

Beg is little. More is big.  Both used as suffixes. (Incidentally, where is the County of Suffix?)

 

  • Like 3
  • Informative/Useful 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...