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Having the shim in shows that I didn't get it near enough to the gauge standards while I was building it. I have a roller gauge which wouldn't go in the confines of this job, and a GOG "commemorative" gauge, the flat one, which does, which I use a lot, although obviously not well enough here. I didn't want to get the checkrail up, partly because soldering and unsoldering on and off copper clad sleepers isn't good for the cladding (I'm sure you know that, already, John) and partly because the gap has got a flat infill of fibre glass strip, to support wheel flange tips, araldited in. This morning I got an 0-6-0T propelling a rake of wagons up and down through it quite happily, also tried a 2-4-0T and an 0-4-2 tender which you haven't met also run through OK. The problem with the Brighton tanks is they started off a couple of years ago running on a 14" radius "pizza" layout (yes, in O) and had huge amounts of swing on the ponies. I fancy if I take this freedom off them they'll perform just so.

I like Don's dads phrase, but I'm been fighting the huge temptation to start aiming "Mockney" at Mikkel, he's such a diamond geezer.

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The way I would approach it would be to move the crossing in towards the wingrails using a couple of slip gauges to get the flangeways there correct. Then move the stock rails in using the gauge which should sort it out. Would it be worth it? Maybe I would just try moving the crossing forward to close the wingrail gaps and see how much improvement that made.

Don

I haven't checked how accurate they are yet, and what the running is like. I need to totally rebuild one, so that will be an opportunity to try it, and see if it's worthwhile.

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Having the shim in shows that I didn't get it near enough to the gauge standards while I was building it. I have a roller gauge which wouldn't go in the confines of this job, and a GOG "commemorative" gauge, the flat one, which does, which I use a lot, although obviously not well enough here. I didn't want to get the checkrail up, partly because soldering and unsoldering on and off copper clad sleepers isn't good for the cladding (I'm sure you know that, already, John) and partly because the gap has got a flat infill of fibre glass strip, to support wheel flange tips, araldited in. This morning I got an 0-6-0T propelling a rake of wagons up and down through it quite happily, also tried a 2-4-0T and an 0-4-2 tender which you haven't met also run through OK. The problem with the Brighton tanks is they started off a couple of years ago running on a 14" radius "pizza" layout (yes, in O) and had huge amounts of swing on the ponies. I fancy if I take this freedom off them they'll perform just so.

I like Don's dads phrase, but I'm been fighting the huge temptation to start aiming "Mockney" at Mikkel, he's such a diamond geezer.

 

It made me wonder where dad got it from try this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np9EO2Qehxc also Billy Cotton's version. I grew up knowing a fair bit of rhyming slang with out knowing the rhyme so my dad would put on his titfer when going to work Grandad called friends chinas and I would nip behing the bushes for a Bradley. It was only when I got older I learnt the origins.

 

Don

Edited by Donw
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One thing about changing the layout spec. to slightly increase train length is that some more wagons are needed. Here's one the shops have just completed, using a kit from Furness Wagons. It has a one piece resin casting for the body and underframe, white metal axleguard/ box/ spring units and buffer housings, steel buffers, and brass etching details. It's a LSWR lowside with fixed sides and ends. They classed this as a 'stone' wagon, and used it for traffic from the quarries on Portland and in Cornwall. I thought a suitable load would be paving slabs, which I made from plastikard, but hollowed out to take steel strips in the middle, to give plenty of weight. (I think a heavy wagon will think twice about derailing, where a light wagon will just go "yippee") Photos show they were normally very dusty from the quarries, so I scuzzied it up with pastel chalk dust, though I don't try to "fix" this with any sprays. Looking at the picture, it looks very grey, but it is umber brown, honest.

post-26540-0-46161100-1485288741_thumb.jpg

 

Edit: to keep things neat and tidy there’s a more recent discussion on the way this wagon has been loaded further on in this thread here:http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107190-washbourne/page-29&do=findComment&comment=3258569

Edited by Northroader
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Thanks, actually I was just looking at it and thinking I should have gone over it again. Normally I do it in pencil, then go over with white paint on a draughtsman's pen, then touch up round the edges with background colour, giving straight corners to blobby areas, maybe getting the levels right against a straight edge, then more white, then perhaps more background, so that it gets trued up by degrees. It never happens first go, and I should have done one more pass with the brown with this one, now I think.

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I think a heavy wagon will think twice about derailing, where a light wagon will just go "yippee"

What a wonderful word picture that description paints!! :lol:

 

I wondered where the "Yeeee-Haaaah!!" was coming from when my U.S. 'cars' derail... :jester:  (not that they do, of course - at least, not until someone is watching... :blush: )

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I wondered where the "Yeeee-Haaaah!!" was coming from when my U.S. 'cars' derail... :jester:  (not that they do, of course - at least, not until someone is watching... :blush: )

It is a proven fact that the reliability of a layout is inversely proportional to the number of people watching!!

 

Jim

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What a wonderful word picture that description paints!! :lol:

 

I wondered where the "Yeeee-Haaaah!!" was coming from when my U.S. 'cars' derail... :jester:  (not that they do, of course - at least, not until someone is watching... :blush: )

You have decoders that go Yeeeeeeeeeeeee....   Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa....  ?

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One thing about changing the layout spec. to slightly increase train length is that some more wagons are needed. Here's one the shops have just completed, using a kit from Furness Wagons. It has a one piece resin casting for the body and underframe, white metal axleguard/ box/ spring units and buffer housings, steel buffers, and brass etching details. It's a LSWR lowside with fixed sides and ends. They classed this as a 'stone' wagon, and used it for traffic from the quarries on Portland and in Cornwall. I thought a suitable load would be paving slabs, which I made from plastikard, but hollowed out to take steel strips in the middle, to give plenty of weight. (I think a heavy wagon will think twice about derailing, where a light wagon will just go "yippee") Photos show they were normally very dusty from the quarries, so I scuzzied it up with pastel chalk dust, though I don't try to "fix" this with any sprays. Looking at the picture, it looks very grey, but it is umber brown, honest.

attachicon.gifIMG_0860.JPG

 

Cracking job, both on the wagon and the load.  Very subtle stuff.

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One thing about changing the layout spec. to slightly increase train length is that some more wagons are needed. Here's one the shops have just completed, using a kit from Furness Wagons. It has a one piece resin casting for the body and underframe, white metal axleguard/ box/ spring units and buffer housings, steel buffers, and brass etching details. It's a LSWR lowside with fixed sides and ends. They classed this as a 'stone' wagon, and used it for traffic from the quarries on Portland and in Cornwall. I thought a suitable load would be paving slabs, which I made from plastikard, but hollowed out to take steel strips in the middle, to give plenty of weight. (I think a heavy wagon will think twice about derailing, where a light wagon will just go "yippee") Photos show they were normally very dusty from the quarries, so I scuzzied it up with pastel chalk dust, though I don't try to "fix" this with any sprays. Looking at the picture, it looks very grey, but it is umber brown, honest.

attachicon.gifIMG_0860.JPG

 

Nice wagon I agree with you about wagon weighting although my unweighted wagons tend to derail quietly. Empty wagons (or those with removable loads I will usually weight by packing lead into the chassis. They also seem to behave more like the full size, lightweight model wagons seem to jump about at poor rail joints etc. I have watched a full size rail joint depressing as each wheel goes over it and thought my 0 gauge track and wagons don't do that. 

Don

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No, silly, read the quote it refers to - if British wagons can go "yippee" - oh never mind. :rolleyes:

My decoders usually go BANG. But only once. :O

I bet you can get an "app" these days for this on your "dcc" thingys? Talking of derailments and bangs, the best sound is a heavy wagon that's off the road going along before it comes to a standstill. A big thump-thump- thump as it goes over each sleeper and drops into the dips between.
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I bet you can get an "app" these days for this on your "dcc" thingys? Talking of derailments and bangs, the best sound is a heavy wagon that's off the road going along before it comes to a standstill. A big thump-thump- thump as it goes over each sleeper and drops into the dips between.

Sorry to take this thread waaaay off topic, but for the "best" derailments, yet again one has to look across The Pond...

 

https://youtu.be/03Nq632eV6I

 

:jester:

 

Skip to about 3:25 for the fun to start.

Edited by F-UnitMad
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Ooooh dear!

 

The first time I supervised the work of an engineer's train, I was shown the ropes by an old hand, who disappeared for a nap in the back cab of the loco, once he was sure that I could be trusted.

 

A long night, but all went well.

 

At the end of the night, the old hand offered to "put the train away" (see it safely back into sidings), so that I could catch the first passenger train home.

 

I leant out of the window of my home-bound train, to give a friendly wave to the lads, only to witness "our" train busily demolishing a floodlighting tower ......... as it was being put away, a facing point in the sidings shifted under it, so that a long bogie wagon was sent down two sidings at once, the unfortunate lighting tower being between the two.

 

The same vaguely slow-motion, utterly unstoppable quality as the derailment in FU's film.

 

Kevin

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Hey, Jordan, I love that clip, the sheer ponderousness of the train, the whole lot happening in slow motion, and the final tangle as everything decides to topple over. I'm not getting anything spectacular as that, but I'm still getting "incidents" as I carry on test runs, between building the feed mill for Englefield, and wagons for Washbourne. Kevin's post brings this round very neatly, I was pushing a rake of wagons through the points, when one come off. I was thinking of rude words for it, and it said, "not me, gaffer, the point blades opened under me."

When I built the pointwork, I thought I'd try having live frogs, with a small insulation strip at the vee, and rail gaps. This works quite well, although I needed to 'back off' the rail ends with a small file where sparking was happening. This way there's no need to have a switched feed to the crossing. (I think the young people are calling them "frog juicers" these days) Before I used to have a slider switch for the electrical feed, and had a rod through the knob giving a mechanical throw to the point simultaneously. The slider did give a positive engagement, but now I just use a plain lever which has no locking on its movement, tending to creep. It looks klunky, so the next job is better point operation.

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Frog Juicers are a DCC item they detect a problem when the frog polarity is incorrect and switch it before the main DCC unit reacts to a short and shuts things down. Unfortunately they won't work for DC. I found on one layout that my linkage from the DPDT slider switch had too much slop and was losing the amount of throw. I bought some Tortoise point motors and found the fitting simple (they only need approximate adjustment as the action is self limiting). I did use some stiffer wire for 0 gauge turnouts and used the contacts for frog switching. Problem solved quickly. If you want a lever and are using wire in tube to transmit the motion a kink in the tube can provide enough resistance to hold the point blades. Switching can be done using a microswitch. This can be arranged to have a set throw which is maintained over a range of throw. 

 

Don

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Do you know, Tom, I missed that one completely. You had me scrambling on the Google to find out what you meant, and yes, it is a very close relative to the American pile up Jordan linked to. Could have been a flash off the third rail, too, when she went over. Thanks for that.https://static.standard.co.uk/s3fs-public/styles/story_medium/public/thumbnails/image/2017/01/25/16/lewisham2501.jpg

post-26540-0-18080300-1485641148.jpg

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post-26540-0-21518200-1486054126_thumb.jpg

Attractive TENDER, single, WLTM unattached engine, GSOH, with a view to forming a close relationship. DOB 1866, social drinker, hobbies: meeting interesting wagons, travel. Late runners considered, but no weak performers. Applications, please, to the Washbourne Lonely Boilers Club.

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