Kato Unitrack Review

[Edge]

Hello all,

 

Recently, I seem to have developed something of a love for the new N gauge models from Farish, Dapol and Hornby-Arnold. A new range of prototypes and sensational realism mean that there has nevere been a better time to start in this scale.

 

However, there is rather a big caveat for me - the track.

 

My first purchase (initially supposed to be my only one) was the Merseyside Express. I just had to have at least one model of DP1. A set was duely purchased and supplemented with a couple of cheap Blood and Custard MK1 coaches. Initially the track held up well and was supplemented with a set of PECO straight tracks purchased during the Modelzone firesales.

 

However recently, the track has begun to disapoint. I think due to the very nature of N gauge stuff, the construction is not robust enough to handle repeated assembly and dissasembly. Fishplates have bent and become loose, rails have begun seperating form sleepers, power clips have become unreliable and being a Train set the curves were always too sharp for some models.

The PECO stuff has held up better than the Farish, but is still starting to show some signs of wear and tear. This piece is not meant to imply that their products are shoddy or badly made ( they arent) but simply that there are better products now available for the non-permanent train set market.

 

The most obvious option is Kato Unitrack. A legacy of the Japanese market's requirement for small, non permanent railways which were robust enough to stand dissassemmbly and reassembly and also filled the requirement for the sets to be assembled rapidly and without fuss - including any wiring. the track is marketed in the UK mostly through Hattons, Gaugemaster and other specialist stockists. The track was also made available in the Dapol N Gauge Train sets released a few years back.

 

Instead of modelling the track in isolation, kato's solution to the problem has been to raise the track up on a moulded ballast bed, which is also used to house clips between track sections to ensure a firm hold, route any wires underneath and rmove the possibility of carpet fluf for dirt coming up between the sleepers and getting caught in mechanisms. This raised trackbed also allows all Kato points to be equipped with point motors as standard.

 

The first thing that you notice about Unitrack is that it is rather pricey. If you want the oval with passing loop then expect to pay in excess of £100 for it, as opposed to a much more reasonable £50 or so for the PECO starter set which contains roughly comparable components. This high initial investment is somewhat off-putting and tricky to justify to those with limited budgets. I nonetheless took the plunge and the Unitrack M2 Set (Oval with Passing Loop) duely arrived yesterday.

 

Upon opening the box, the quality of the components is immediately apparent - there are no shoddy components and even the cardboard box has a solid feel to it that gives a feeling of money well spent. The polystyrene tray also has a pull out draw for the instruction manual, any additional pieces of track or even any trains which have no other home (although I am uncertain how much protection they would enjoy if you did, as its protected by little more than thin card).

 

The contents of the box are as follows:

 

- 10 x Long Straights

- 2 x Medium Length Straights (one of which has primitive level crossing detail

- 2 x Short Straight lengths

- 2 x Very Short Staights, one of which is used as the power track 

- 2 x Points (one left, one right) 718mm radius. Fitted with motors to allow remote switching

- 2 x Curves 718mm radius

- 8 x Curves 315mm radius

- Transformer and Controller

- 2 x Point Control Switches

- Re-Railing Tool

- Stickers for labelling Point Switches

 

When the contents of this box are noted, the price suddenly becomes considerably more reasonable, as the purchase of a controller, transformer, point motore, wires switches etc begin to make the two sets of prices comparable to one another. There are a large number of expansion parts and sets available which can incorporate prototype banking on fast lines, model viaducts and station approaches, include automatic singalling and level crossings, model catenary and have up to five lines operating side by side with each other. A thoroughly impressive range which is now also available in HO as well as N.

 

The track itself is a dream to assemble - the parts have been beautifully manufactured to create prefect alignment of the rails and electrical continuity every time. They also have that solid 'feel' which speaks volumes about how well this product will last. The tracks are easy and fast to assemble and I had a complete loop build and wired within twenty minutes of opening the bos (including reading time). One point of issue is that it is tricky to improvise with unitrack - by the nature of the construction, Unitrack is very inflexible and therefore there is no give in the components where there would be in conventional track. I had to go back to the diagram a number of times because a part did not fit exactly. I had originally tried to shorten the loop, but ultimately had to build the entire thing because this was the only configuration that worked. now, i'm certain that there are other arrangements which will work, but its flexibility was undoubtedly an issue with this system.

 

The electrics were extremely easy to set up, requiring only four wires to be plugged in operate the track and points. The Point switches have a very neat solution for providing their power - the main controller has connectors on the side (not dissimilar to a 9v battery connector) adn each switch also has a further connector, these are plugged in to each other and only require a single wire to be run to the point. An extremely impressive solution in my opinion.

 

During the running session, I chose my three best and three worst performers on the Farish Track. The best were DP1, Western Enterprise and an LMR 'WD'. The worst were represented by Evening Star, a Q1 and an unnamed 9F. All locos performed almost without fault on the track ( a bit of a relief, if I'm honest) with the only sticking point being the tendancy of DP1 and Evening Star to follow the curve of the point even when it was set straight. However, this issue was intermittent and restricted to only one of the points in the set so i cannot imagine that it is anything which cannot be corrected at all. Performance was smooth and even cardan shaft drive models (which have a tendancy to derail frequently through sharp radius curves) ran without an indication of binding through both points and curves.

The set was just as quick going down as it was being put up, and everything was back in its box within ten minutes.

 

The only significant drawback of the track is its appearance. There can be no mistaking that this track is for a train set and not for a scale model. The very nature of its construction makes it extremely hard to disguise in a scenic setting and honestly throughout my research I have yet to see it done well. it is here that the PECO range has its massive advantage over the Unitrack. However, unitrack is compatible with all other N Gauge track with the use of a special adapter straight, so it could do extremely good service in fiddle yards and off scene tracks where its reliability and quality will work wonders. 

 

Overall, the Kato Unitrack range appears to be both of exceptional quality and exceptional value for money. I will most definitely be purchasing more of the range and expanding that I already have.

[No Decorum]

Thank you for that excellent review. My track is 00 and some years ago I looked at the various track systems, concluding that none was perfect but Peco was as good as any and cheap. I have wondered about Kato for a test track and now, with grandchildren growing up, a temporary layout using Kato is beginning to look like a very good idea.

[justin1985]

Its certainly possible to ballast and paint Unitrack to look very convincing! The best known layout using that approach seems to be "Santa Fe Peavine Line" by an American modeller called John Sing. He did have a personal website with a guide to how he did it, unfortunately now seems to be dead. There are plenty of photos of the results floating around though: http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/albums/john-sings-n-scale-unitrack-santa-fe-peavine-line.322/ 

 

I used Evernote web clipper to save a copy of his guide to ballasting Unitrack when I first saw it, PM me if you'd like a PDF or something of it.

 

The first step was building up the surrounding scenery to make the raised trackbed blend into the scenery (presumably using plaster etc) - obviously easier for an American west scene than say Norfolk! Basically then it just boils down to painting the whole lot with a uniform "track dirt" colour (sleepers and rails together - none of this artificial "rust" on the rails) and then very carefully placing on fine ballast, then flooding with water/IPA solution using an eye dropper (not a spray) then repeating with water/IPA/PVA glue solution. Around the points he made up a mush of ballast/glue and pasted it on using a fine screwdriver as a scoop. Finally he touched in the areas that couldn't be ballasted (between switch rails, around mechanism etc) with an "earth" colour paint that matched his ballast. 

 

Justin

[MikeTrice]

This might be of interest as well: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/41847-experiments-with-n-gauge-ballast/

[Edge]

Thank you for that excellent review. My track is 00 and some years ago I looked at the various track systems, concluding that none was perfect but Peco was as good as any and cheap. I have wondered about Kato for a test track and now, with grandchildren growing up, a temporary layout using Kato is beginning to look like a very good idea.

 

My pleasure, I hope to more stuff like this in the future - i hope it wasnt too boring for you all

[tersono]

I've been using N gauge Unitrack in permanent layouts for years. My usual method of ballasting is to use OO gauge cork trackbed (the sort with shoulders), cut down the centre line, turned upside down and glued down. That brings the surrounding levels up to match the height of the unitrack. I then give the area a light coat of ballast and some weathering. Looks good, runs well and is extremely durable/reliable.

[D9020 Nimbus]

I find that stock does not reliably run through the #4 points. Not sure how easy it is to fix. But if you want track that can be put together and dismantled on a regular basis, Unitrack is about the only,choice.

[Phil Bullock]

Have a test oval for my 4mm locos - excellent for a quick run on the kitchen or bedroom floor, some views in my videos below, follow youtube link

 

SWMBO also has an extensive collection for her N gauge layout - love the built in point motors, only down side is limited points available

 

Highly recommended

 

Phil

[jaym481]

I find that stock does not reliably run through the #4 points. Not sure how easy it is to fix. But if you want track that can be put together and dismantled on a regular basis, Unitrack is about the only,choice.

 

The #4 points need modification to allow the point blades to engage with the rails, as they stick out too much, derailing a lot of stock.

 

Tomix track has a much wider range of pieces, including curved points, but it isn't readily available in the UK. The Kato adapter piece that is usually used to mix Unitrack with Peco, for example, was designed to allow the Tomix track to adapt to the Kato. The Tomix track also has a much smaller profile plastic ballast, so would probably be easier to integrate into a well modelled layout.

[Butler Henderson]

You do not need to use the adaptor plate with Peco etc, just pack the Peco track to same height and use rail joiners that fit both types - Fleischmann for example.

[Edge]

The #4 points need modification to allow the point blades to engage with the rails, as they stick out too much, derailing a lot of stock.

 

Tomix track has a much wider range of pieces, including curved points, but it isn't readily available in the UK. The Kato adapter piece that is usually used to mix Unitrack with Peco, for example, was designed to allow the Tomix track to adapt to the Kato. The Tomix track also has a much smaller profile plastic ballast, so would probably be easier to integrate into a well modelled layout.

 

I have read that myself, however just for any who are reading this the points included in set M2 are the #6 points which generally appear to be a better choice than the #4. From what I have read it is far more likely to be a problem with the Evening Star and DP1 models than with the #6 point

[Culmhead]

About ten years ago my youngest son (then 6 ) was heavily into N gauge, putting track out and taking it up again (as children do), took its toil. Around the same time, I had started to go to Japan on business at least a couple of times a year.  The price at the time for Kato stock & track was a fraction of the price in the UK and if I remember rightly the cost of a motorised point was less than a manual Peco point. Needless, to say he acquired quite a substantial collection. Kato track not only worked perfectly but could be taken up and re-laid easily without any damage and even walked on, in over six years only one piece ever got damaged, by being trapped under a door on a uneven floor and even then that was repairable.

 

Due to the space limitations in Japanese homes, it was designed, I believe with the intention that it should be able to withstand assembly and disassembly and even being stood on!  It achieves these objectives superbly as  experience has shown.

 

Highly recommended, so much so, I recently bought a V5 set as a N gauge test track - I normally model in 4mm but, dabble in UK, USA and Japanese N gauge.

 

Cheers,

 

Aidan

Edited January 20, 2016 by Culmhead

[Butler Henderson]

The adaptor track also is not necessary to connect Kato to Tomix, raise the Tomix to the height of the Kato, remove the plastic connector prong from the Tomix  and sort out a suitable pai of rail joiners.

[jaym481]

The adaptor track also is not necessary to connect Kato to Tomix, raise the Tomix to the height of the Kato, remove the plastic connector prong from the Tomix  and sort out a suitable pai of rail joiners.

 

True, and pretty much any equivalent N gauge track can be connected to Kato with a bit of fiddling. A pack of 2 adapters is £1.65 though, and you don't need to cut anything off of the Tomix track. 

[jaym481]

I have read that myself, however just for any who are reading this the points included in set M2 are the #6 points which generally appear to be a better choice than the #4. From what I have read it is far more likely to be a problem with the Evening Star and DP1 models than with the #6 point

 

I've experienced quite a few derailment problems with the #4 points and UK stock, so I try to use the #6 as much as I can. My Kato US-outline stuff doesn't have any issues, unsurprisingly.

[Edge]

Replacement right handed point purchased from Rails of sheffield at the weekend, which now works perfectly with all locos in my collection. I'm going to look at modifying or repairing the original point so that it is a tad more reliable, and I'll make sure to include a post on what I did when I actually get around to doing it...

[Edge]

As an addendum to the earlier review, I have recently found that the Unitrack as a second use at being a superb way to run OO9 locomotives - the narrow gauge outline makes the sharp radius of the model curves appear much more reasonable (although that restriction would apply to any ready to lay track) and the Kato controller supplied with the M2 set has superb speed control. In nearly five hours of running with my Heljan Manning Wardle, the engine never one looked like binding or derailing. I will definitely be using Unitrack in my future OO9 layout.

 

In addition, the raised trackbed and frequent sleeper spacings suit the appearance of preservation era narrow gauge trackwork (current day WHR, FR, L&B etc.) and I believe could look quite effective given a little work

[class8mikado]

Can any one tell me if Kato points or 'turnouts' are electrofog or insulfrog  (or some clever combination of both ?) and are Tomix the same ?

[Edge]

The points are I believe insulfrog as they electrically isolate any siding that they are set against. That being said this has not affected the running of any model I've ever run across them. Don't know about Tomix though 

[frobisher]

The points are I believe insulfrog as they electrically isolate any siding that they are set against. That being said this has not affected the running of any model I've ever run across them. Don't know about Tomix though

Erm, not quite. It also depends on the turnout. The small radius ones in N can be set up in a variety of ways by adjusting the screws underneath. Their frog can either be live or dead, and power routing to either path can be set as required. The large radius points are live frog by default due to all in one design of the switch blades and frog. I cannot remember off the top of my head if they have power routing capability.

[DaveF]

Erm, not quite. It also depends on the turnout. The small radius ones in N can be set up in a variety of ways by adjusting the screws underneath. Their frog can either be live or dead, and power routing to either path can be set as required. The large radius points are live frog by default due to all in one design of the switch blades and frog. I cannot remember off the top of my head if they have power routing capability.

 

 

My large radius Kato points do have power routing - i.e. the track not set is electrically dead.  

 

David

 

Edited to remove an incorrect bit.

Edited August 3, 2017 by DaveF

[Stevelewis]

For  info  the  No 6  ( Large  radius  points)  are  not   adjustable    they  are  set  up  for  power routing.

 

The  N04  points  are  adjustable   to  live  or  dead  frog  and  power  routing  or  not  ( very  handy   on digital layouts)

I  have  used  Kato unitrack  for  more  year  than  I  can  remeber  since  it  was  first  imported   by MGSharp in  Sheffield ( Now long  gone)

 

Very  useful  for  fiddle  yards  and  off scene storage  loops  etc,  It  is  a  little  bit  too geometrical  if  used ifor the visible  part  of  a  layout  but  can  be  disguised  scenically,  I find  that  the  small  15' curve  sections  are  useful  for    breaking  the   visual  effect  of  long straight  sections,

 

I often  wish  they  had  produced  a  double  slip,  but  was advised  by  the importer  that  D Slips  are not  as  common as in  other parts  of the  world in  Japan  ( I have no idea  if  this  is  correct info)

 

As  I  speak  I  have   a further  Unitrack  order   in  the  hands  of  UPS  from  www.traintrax.co.uk, on its  way  to  me  ( Hattons  sell it  also)

Edited August 3, 2017 by Stevelewis

[justin1985]

 

I often  wish  they  had  produced  a  double  slip,  but  was advised  by  the importer  that  D Slips  are not  as  common as in  other parts  of the  world in  Japan  ( I have no idea  if  this  is  correct info)

 

Wikipedia also says this - apparently in many parts of the world double slips are known as "English points"

 

 

 

In Italian, the term for a double switch is deviatoio inglese, which means English switch. Likewise, it is called Engels(e) Wisselin Dutch, and was called Engländer in German in former times.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Railroad_switch#Double_slip

[jjb1970]

Kato have always made very high quality products, across their ranges. Unitrack is a superb product, and with a little work can be used very successfully in more serious layouts. If you're in the market for a ready ballasted track system then it's as good as you'll get. I prefer it to Tomix despite the more limited range, although I've seen some wonderful layouts using Tomix track.

[Strummer]

Just found this topic and thought I'd "join in".

 

I have used Unitrack in both N and HO and have found it a terrific platform on which to run trains. Have always stuck with the #6 turnouts ("points"), as I prefer the look (and have read about some issues with the #4's.)

 

Have just recently been "playing" with some OO stuff (the reason I joined this group), and find both Hornby and Bachmann locos are quite happy on the Kato track. I also have a small shelf-type layout with Micro Engineering flex with Shinohara "points"; both code 83, like the Unitrack. The Hornby loco tends to bump rather aggressively over the Shinohara points; it travels very smoothly over the Kato product. The Bachmann, with its finer wheel flanges, is happy on all 3 brands of track.

 

For whatever that's worth...

 

Mark in Oregon