SimonMW Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 If I read it correctly a Dapol warrantly is invalidated if you fit a decoder, but not if you lightly weather a loco! Haven't read through the Oxford one yet (It should come with the loco) Keith I've just looked at mine - nothing on warranty terms on the blurb with the Oxford Rail Dean Goods. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 Would you believe it? The little s*d is running perfectly ok now! I intend to oil the motion parts, as recommended by Oxford today, and see how we get on. Meanwhile, it's running around the layout, until I'm sure it's OK. Thanks to melmerby and SimonMW for their kind advice and support. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidR Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Status report: removed body, checked motor/gears/flywheel aligned OK. Found several pickups that weren't - mostly on tender. Tiny amounts of oil applied, as per instructions. Tested: ran OK without body, then reassembled. Gave wheels a wipe over (although they appeared to be quite clean), then cleaned track. Put on track, ran about 6ft OK, then stalled. Threw plastic box wrapper at it*, derailing it. Re railed it, turned on the juice - it ran sweetly for an hour - then I stopped, had a lie down in a darkened room, then lunch. It now works fine (for the moment......!). * Don't try this at home. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratcher Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) As I posted earlier, I have a similar problem with one I bought from Jumblies. I only paid £63, and Jumblies can only offer a refund not a swap, so I am determined to get to the bottom of the slow running problem. If I remove the chassis keep-plate and the body there is nothing obviously wrong with any of the parts and the pickups are all good, and there is no over-greasing. With the keep-plate back in place, but with coupling rods removed, and the loco on the track, the motor will turn over the rear wheels at a *very* slow speed with no hesitation - about 1 rev of the motor per second. The loco won’t move but the rear wheels turn on the spot perfectly. So there is nothing wrong with motor, gears or pickups. It’s only with the rods back on that the sticking occurs, and it is only in one spot per revolution. My suspicion is either that the wheels are not quite quartered right or that the coupling rods are not quite drilled right. The centre hole in the rods is slightly oval but I’m guessing that is deliberate. I spoke to Oxford Rails' technical dept on the phone, but they are not aware of any specific problem with the Dean Goods. I have emailed them this morning asking if they can send a couple of sets of coupling rods for me to try. If that doesn't work I'll start opening out the holes in one of the sets. Edited March 26, 2018 by scratcher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Remove the motor, then try with the Rods on. You should then be able to find any tight spot straight away. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratcher Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Oxford Rail are sending me a replacement set of wheels with rods attached, so I will give that a go first and post how it goes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scratcher Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 New set of wheels and coupling rods received from Oxford Rail. They initially seemed to improve the running in the forward direction but not the reverse, but with more running the sticking in both directions was still evident. So reluctantly I am going to return the model to Jumblies for a refund. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerJohn Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 (edited) I had to send 3 back before I got one that runs reasonably, all 4 have had missing detail parts, the tiny hook by the the front left buffer (2),missing the rear half of the pipework that runs alongside the running board (3), l/h brake rod (1), fallen out tender buffer (1). 2 were particularly poor runners, I phoned Oxford and was told they had probs with some the early ones which was down to shorting on the chassis halves, now cured by painting the previously bare metal surfaces. I have to say that imo they are not particularly sprightly runners compared to say, a Hornby Q1. It seems to run out of puff at half power on my controller but reaches a reasonable speed pulling 3 Hornby Mk1'sl, the speed range is basically covered by a quarter turn on the controller, the remaining 3 quarters give no more rpm from the motor. I was tempted to return it but it's such a nice looking well detailed model and was only £80 that I'll keep it, but am a bit wary of any future Oxford purchases. Edited April 2, 2018 by PanzerJohn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 2, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 2, 2018 (edited) Mine, after running fine for a week, suddenly came to a stop and tripped the DCC system. Trips each time I tried it afterwards, without moving. It has a Lenz decoder fitted so I won't be very happy if it's fried that. Keith Edited April 2, 2018 by melmerby Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 3, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 3, 2018 Further to the above. Decoder is totally fried. I replaced it with a blanking plug and tested the loco on DC on a bench power supply. It shows that as the wheels rotate there is a complete short at certain points in the rotation. A bit of a strange fault It'll have to go back whence it came. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerJohn Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 Further to the above. Decoder is totally fried. I replaced it with a blanking plug and tested the loco on DC on a bench power supply. It shows that as the wheels rotate there is a complete short at certain points in the rotation. A bit of a strange fault It'll have to go back whence it came. Keith Your problem may be the prob Oxford told me ref my previous post. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted April 3, 2018 Share Posted April 3, 2018 I had to send 3 back before I got one that runs reasonably, all 4 have had missing detail parts, the tiny hook by the the front left buffer (2),missing the rear half of the pipework that runs alongside the running board (3), l/h brake rod (1), fallen out tender buffer (1). 2 were particularly poor runners, I phoned Oxford and was told they had probs with some the early ones which was down to shorting on the chassis halves, now cured by painting the previously bare metal surfaces. I have to say that imo they are not particularly sprightly runners compared to say, a Hornby Q1. It seems to run out of puff at half power on my controller but reaches a reasonable speed pulling 3 Hornby Mk1'sl, the speed range is basically covered by a quarter turn on the controller, the remaining 3 quarters give no more rpm from the motor. I was tempted to return it but it's such a nice looking well detailed model and was only £80 that I'll keep it, but am a bit wary of any future Oxford purchases. Having done some more research I can say the missing bit of pipework along the RH footplate edge (Hanging plate) is not missing at all. That pipe is the ATC conduit which, at the point it stops, should go through the footplate and up the front of the cab into the control gear in the cab, Unfortunately Oxford Rail has missed a bit of pipe out but not the bit along the edge of the footplate. I understand that locos were only fitted with ATC after 1930/1 so any loco intended to be prior to that date needs the pipework removed entirely. This would include 2309 and the WW1 variant of course. Hope the information is of some help to someone in case they think their loco is missing some ATC conduit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerJohn Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 Having done some more research I can say the missing bit of pipework along the RH footplate edge (Hanging plate) is not missing at all. That pipe is the ATC conduit which, at the point it stops, should go through the footplate and up the front of the cab into the control gear in the cab, Unfortunately Oxford Rail has missed a bit of pipe out but not the bit along the edge of the footplate. I understand that locos were only fitted with ATC after 1930/1 so any loco intended to be prior to that date needs the pipework removed entirely. This would include 2309 and the WW1 variant of course. Hope the information is of some help to someone in case they think their loco is missing some ATC conduit. The weird thing is that one of the locos had complete pipework on BOTH sides!, I wonder if they have a little man at the factory with a Stanley knife cutting them down and he got that one wrong! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 7, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 7, 2018 Your problem may be the prob Oxford told me ref my previous post. I've got my return of my faulty one being organised so It'll soon be on it's way back for hopefully a replacement good one. I don't suppose I'll get the £20 for a new decoder! Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 Decoder is totally fried. I replaced it with a blanking plug and tested the loco on DC on a bench power supply. It shows that as the wheels rotate there is a complete short at certain points in the rotation. A bit of a strange fault How does that happen ? I thought you only burnt out decoders if you wired it up incorrectly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonMW Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) How does that happen ? I thought you only burnt out decoders if you wired it up incorrectly. If there is a fault in the loco's wiring it can fry a decoder even if all you have done is plug it into an 8-pin socket and place it on the track. Always pays to check the loco first on DC, then pull out the blanking plug and check for isolation between motor and track. I had a Hornby Castle with faulty wiring in the 8-pin socket... ran fine on DC, plugged a decoder in and it fried it. I should have checked the wiring first. Shouldn't have HAD to, but should have anyway. Edited April 8, 2018 by SimonMW Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 The weird thing is that one of the locos had complete pipework on BOTH sides!, I wonder if they have a little man at the factory with a Stanley knife cutting them down and he got that one wrong! Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. The pipe running the whole length of the loco on the left hand side of the footplate is the vacuum pipe. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brassey Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Sorry about the delay in getting back to you. The pipe running the whole length of the loco on the left hand side of the footplate is the vacuum pipe. On the left is the vacuum pipe and on the right is the steam heating pipe on a Dean Goods. The steam heating connections were often removed in the summer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 8, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2018 On the left is the vacuum pipe And according to Russell it is a 2" diameter pipe. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium melmerby Posted April 8, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2018 How does that happen ? I thought you only burnt out decoders if you wired it up incorrectly. It was OK on DC and it was OK on DCC for a short while. But then it stopped, tripping the system having blown the motor drive on the decoder. Odd really as I thought Lenz had motor protection circuit that stopped that sort of thing from happening: "Capacity and protection equipment The decoder is protected against overloading, short circuits and overheating. In case of a fault, the corresponding bit is set in CV30 which will state the type of fault which has occured. This bit can be deleted via programming." If you put the decoder on a programming track it will read it's CVs and you can program it. Any attempt to drive a motor trips the system. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amdaley Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 On the left is the vacuum pipe and on the right is the steam heating pipe on a Dean Goods. The steam heating connections were often removed in the summer. The pipe on the right hand side of the Oxford model is the ATC as the Oxford model isn't fitted with front steam heat connections and pipework. Very few Deans Goods were so fitted only those which were used for passenger traffic. Locos in France did in some cases have a small diameter pipe along the full length of the right hand side but this was for the air brake equipment that they were fitted with. The ATC gear having been removed before entering military service in WW2. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSpencer Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 the speed range is basically covered by a quarter turn on the controller, the remaining 3 quarters give no more rpm from the motor. I was tempted to return it but it's such a nice looking well detailed model and was only £80 that I'll keep it, but am a bit wary of any future Oxford purchases. The mechanical nature of electric motors and gearboxes means that this should not happen. Only an integrated circuit could cause that and there would have to be some faulty logic somewhere. Either on the locos PCB or the controller. Normally if you add more juice to a motor and the speed cannot increase then it can only get hot and eventually you would see it burn out - unless something is kicking in to restrict power to the motor in the first place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garethp8873 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Looks like I will purchasing two GWR Plain Green Deans following me finally finding a photo of a GWR Shirtbutton Dean Goods... Now I just need to find out which Dean Goods went into the GWR Wartime Black livery. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 (edited) I reduced the height of the splashers by 1mm and altered the cab cutout to the larger type this evening (See Carrog Road thread).... Edited April 11, 2018 by coachmann 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDJR7F88 Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 A look at the Oxford Rail GWR Class 2301 ‘Dean Goods’ 0-6-0 smart British Railway Early Black Livery, fitted with DCC Sound. Available for just under £190, this model comes pre-fitted with a ESU LoksoundV4.0 Decoder and Speaker, equipped with sound from Coastal DCC. In this video, we take a look at just some of the many built in sound functions (Full List Below), with the model hauling a short mixed goods train. Sound Functions List; F1 Sound on/off F2 Whistle F3 POP F4 Drains F5 Wheel Squeal F6 Coupling F7 Right Of Way Whistle (On) /Response (Off) F8 Volume F9 Inertia Off/On F10 Watering F11 Coal Shovelling F12 Aux 2 F13 Safety Valves F14 Injector F15 Reverser F16 Blower F17 Brake Squeal Hope you enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZJHja_9Rr8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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