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The Oak Hill Branch - LBSCR / SECR 1905ish - New layout starts on page 129


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Leave a blue loco out in the sea air for a year or so and you can probably have any colour you like.

You don't need the sea air, just different lighting conditions.  Look at the two photographs part way down the page here http://2mmfcag.blogspot.co.uk/ which were taken less than a minute apart.

 

Jim

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Precisely why I tend to have a relaxed attitude to prototype colours at scale!

 

If it looks right to you ...

 

I couldn't agree more, if someone from 1905 turns up to tell me I got the shade wrong, then I might care, until then I will continue with my multiple shades of IEG.

 

Gary

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I couldn't agree more, if someone from 1905 turns up to tell me I got the shade wrong, then I might care, until then I will continue with my multiple shades of IEG.

 

Gary

 

Or just continue to adjust the lighting conditions until he agrees you've got it right!

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So, back on topic then!! That sounds like a good idea!!

 

That Hornby-Dublo R1 that I got cheap on eBay, that seems like a nice quick, and easy detail job and a re-paint. That was the reason for buying it!

 

Lets have a quick reminder of how the loco looked when it arrived with me:

post-22762-0-36183900-1499774514_thumb.jpg

 

So just what is a "quick, and easy detail job"??

 

Let me try to show you, this is going to be the most in depth look at my workbench so far (other than possibly the X.04 motor rebuild). Hopefully by the end anyone reading should be able to detail one of these locos just like I have, I shall let the pictures do the talking as much as possible.

 

Let us begin!

 

Firstly, much to the disdain of my other half I set the workbench up in the living room, and began by cutting the chassis:

post-22762-0-63541500-1499774515_thumb.jpg

 

This would of course be useless without removing the skirt under the boiler:

post-22762-0-56963800-1499774516_thumb.jpg

 

Success!! We can see daylight!!

post-22762-0-59139700-1499774517_thumb.jpg

 

and while we have the knife in our hand we should remove some of those moulded on details that we will be replacing.

 

The handrails and smoke box dart at the front:

post-22762-0-42838800-1499774518_thumb.jpg

 

The handrails at the rear:

post-22762-0-39825600-1499774519_thumb.jpg

 

The clack valve pipework and Westinghouse pump from the side:

post-22762-0-74237200-1499774520_thumb.jpg

 

Then I decided to go back and remove the lamp irons from the rear, after all if I'm doing this I may as well do it properly:

post-22762-0-56867600-1499774521_thumb.jpg

 

Now that we have done that the boiler needs a new bottom! After taking a look around the house I realised that the syringe I use for applying glue when ballasting is the right size:

post-22762-0-59054300-1499774522_thumb.jpg

 

So it must face the chop:

post-22762-0-94722500-1499774523_thumb.jpg

 

And after a bit of shaping it fits underneath with clearance for the motor:

post-22762-0-89376500-1499774530_thumb.jpg

 

So I guess it must be time to start adding details.

 

Some handrails made from .4mm brass wire and cheap handrail knobs from eBay, along with some lamp irons made from staples.

 

On the front:

post-22762-0-05810600-1499774532_thumb.jpg

 

The rear:

post-22762-0-20821700-1499774533_thumb.jpg

 

And the side:

post-22762-0-44109100-1499774534_thumb.jpg

 

The prototype also has an overhang in the front and rear of the cab which is not included on the original model, nothing a bit of 20thou won't fix!

 

The front:

post-22762-0-60379100-1499774535_thumb.jpg

 

The rear:

post-22762-0-15222700-1499774537_thumb.jpg

 

We also need to deal with the buffer beams, they need some couplings added.

 

Front buffers and couplings:

post-22762-0-67699700-1499774538_thumb.jpg

 

and the rear:

post-22762-0-86618400-1499774539_thumb.jpg

 

We also need to do something about that Westinghouse pump I removed, sorry to the people that make these, but I am not paying £4.00 for a casting when a cotton bud some wire and a couple of squares of cardboard can do this:

post-22762-0-01522900-1499774541_thumb.jpg

 

I then decided that I should add some representation of the grills over the rear cab windows so the .4mm wire came back out:

post-22762-0-19831900-1499774542_thumb.jpg

 

and although the bars are much to thick and there is no where near enough of them they do look the part once fitted:

post-22762-0-46838100-1499774551_thumb.jpg

 

With the rear windows looking good I needed do to something with the front ones, as they come the extend all the way down to the firebox.

 

A fillet was cut to fill the space, and the widows cut into this:

post-22762-0-42885000-1499774555_thumb.jpg

 

and a view from the outside:

post-22762-0-39171800-1499774559_thumb.jpg

 

I then added some brake and steam heat pipes to the buffer beams:

post-22762-0-21748800-1499781183_thumb.jpg

 

And that is where I left it, The airbrush will get a full strip down and clean this week ready to put some primer on. In the mean time here is a few shots showing the finished loco on Oak Hill, under close inspection from the station dog:

 

post-22762-0-61425200-1499774570_thumb.jpg

 

post-22762-0-48404200-1499774572_thumb.jpg

 

post-22762-0-08372500-1499774574_thumb.jpg

 

And that is what I called a quick detail job, and yes I did a bit more than I originally planned!!

 

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed,

 

Gary

Edited by BlueLightning
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Hi Gary...

 

Nice job.....I will be using it for reference later!

 

One question....

 

The lamp irons are the Southern arrangement, with the 2 extra (from RCH pattern)....

 

Now was this in use on SECR locos prior to grouping?

 

I was under the impression that this arrangement came from the LBSCR at grouping, and was adopted by the SR.....LSWR and SECR locos being modified accordingly.

 

Now I may well be wrong.....

 

 

So....I had a bit of a search...

 

LSWR locos (from 1905) did actually have the "extra" lamp irons, as did LBSCR locos, LATER....1881 headcodes seem to not use the extras! 1910-1917 do have the extras though...

 

SECR Headcodes (These seem to not use the "extra" lamp iron positions...)

 

http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes/07.html

 

SR Steam Headcodes index....

 

http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes.html

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Hi Gary...

 

Nice job.....I will be using it for reference later!

 

One question....

 

The lamp irons are the Southern arrangement, with the 2 extra (from RCH pattern)....

 

Now was this in use on SECR locos prior to grouping?

 

I was under the impression that this arrangement came from the LBSCR at grouping, and was adopted by the SR.....LSWR and SECR locos being modified accordingly.

 

Now I may well be wrong.....

 

 

So....I had a bit of a search...

 

LSWR locos (from 1905) did actually have the "extra" lamp irons, as did LBSCR locos, LATER....1881 headcodes seem to not use the extras! 1910-1917 do have the extras though...

 

SECR Headcodes (These seem to not use the "extra" lamp iron positions...)

 

http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes/07.html

 

SR Steam Headcodes index....

 

http://www.semgonline.com/headcodes/sheadcodes.html

 

Thanks Sarah, that is rather helpful!! The honest answer is I couldn't find any pictures in SECR days that showed the lamp irons clearly enough to tell. I was hoping someone would notice and either correct me or confirm it happened!! My usual SECR contact is on holiday at the moment!!

 

You have been busy!  Has the livery for the R1 been decided?  If so, is it being kept as a surprise to the forum thread?

 

The R1 is going to be in fully lined SECR livery! I have not yet decided on an identity for it though.

 

Gary

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High Gary nice work as always love the way you've gone to the effort to cut the chassis back to give a bit of "Light" under the boiler.

 

  Like you I begrudge paying for small fittings like the air pump and getting a range of detail parts for a loco can soon add up also after paying good money for what was a lump of white metal masquerading as an air pump which was so poor it went straight in the bin I decided to make as much as I could and now make all my air pumps out of brass and have even made a small jig to cut and solder them on.

 

   You might recall seeing them on my Caley loco thread but here's an example.

post-17847-0-70300700-1499801236.jpg

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High Gary nice work as always love the way you've gone to the effort to cut the chassis back to give a bit of "Light" under the boiler.

 

  Like you I begrudge paying for small fittings like the air pump and getting a range of detail parts for a loco can soon add up also after paying good money for what was a lump of white metal masquerading as an air pump which was so poor it went straight in the bin I decided to make as much as I could and now make all my air pumps out of brass and have even made a small jig to cut and solder them on.

 

   You might recall seeing them on my Caley loco thread but here's an example.

attachicon.gifDunalastair I air pump from brass.jpg

 

Steve

 

Of course I remember seeing them on your thread!! Where do you think I got the inspiration to try and make them myself?!

 

Gary

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So, back on topic then!! That sounds like a good idea!!

 

That Hornby-Dublo R1 that I got cheap on eBay, that seems like a nice quick, and easy detail job and a re-paint. That was the reason for buying it!

 

Lets have a quick reminder of how the loco looked when it arrived with me:

attachicon.gif01 R1 original.jpg

 

So just what is a "quick, and easy detail job"??

 

Let me try to show you, this is going to be the most in depth look at my workbench so far (other than possibly the X.04 motor rebuild). Hopefully by the end anyone reading should be able to detail one of these locos just like I have, I shall let the pictures do the talking as much as possible.

 

Let us begin!

 

Firstly, much to the disdain of my other half I set the workbench up in the living room, and began by cutting the chassis:

attachicon.gif02 chassis mod.jpg

 

This would of course be useless without removing the skirt under the boiler:

attachicon.gif03 skit removed.jpg

 

Success!! We can see daylight!!

attachicon.gif04 air under boiler.jpg

 

and while we have the knife in our hand we should remove some of those moulded on details that we will be replacing.

 

The handrails and smoke box dart at the front:

attachicon.gif05 handrails removed front.jpg

 

The handrails at the rear:

attachicon.gif06 handrails removed rear.jpg

 

The clack valve pipework and Westinghouse pump from the side:

attachicon.gif07 details removed side.jpg

 

Then I decided to go back and remove the lamp irons from the rear, after all if I'm doing this I may as well do it properly:

attachicon.gif08 lamp irons removed.jpg

 

Now that we have done that the boiler needs a new bottom! After taking a look around the house I realised that the syringe I use for applying glue when ballasting is the right size:

attachicon.gif09 syringe.jpg

 

So it must face the chop:

attachicon.gif10 syringe cut.jpg

 

And after a bit of shaping it fits underneath with clearance for the motor:

attachicon.gif11 boiler bottom.jpg

 

So I guess it must be time to start adding details.

 

Some handrails made from .4mm brass wire and cheap handrail knobs from eBay, along with some lamp irons made from staples.

 

On the front:

attachicon.gif12 handrails and lamp irons front.jpg

 

The rear:

attachicon.gif13 handrails and lamp irons rear.jpg

 

And the side:

attachicon.gif14 handrails and lamp irons side.jpg

 

The prototype also has an overhang in the front and rear of the cab which is not included on the original model, nothing a bit of 20thou won't fix!

 

The front:

attachicon.gif15 cab overhang front.jpg

 

The rear:

attachicon.gif16 cab overhang rear.jpg

 

We also need to deal with the buffer beams, they need some couplings added.

 

Front buffers and couplings:

attachicon.gif17 couplings and buffers.jpg

 

and the rear:

attachicon.gif18 couplings and buffers.jpg

 

We also need to do something about that Westinghouse pump I removed, sorry to the people that make these, but I am not paying £4.00 for a casting when a cotton bud some wire and a couple of squares of cardboard can do this:

attachicon.gif19 westinghouse pump.jpg

 

I then decided that I should add some representation of the grills over the rear cab windows so the .4mm wire came back out:

attachicon.gif20 cab grills.jpg

 

and although the bars are much to thick and there is no where near enough of them they do look the part once fitted:

attachicon.gif21 cab grills fitted.jpg

 

With the rear windows looking good I needed do to something with the front ones, as they come the extend all the way down to the firebox.

 

A fillet was cut to fill the space, and the widows cut into this:

attachicon.gif22 fillets for cab front windows.jpg

 

and a view from the outside:

attachicon.gif23 cab front windows.jpg

 

I then added some brake and steam heat pipes to the buffer beams:

attachicon.gif24 buffer beam pipework.jpg

 

And that is where I left it, The airbrush will get a full strip down and clean this week ready to put some primer on. In the mean time here is a few shots showing the finished loco on Oak Hill, under close inspection from the station dog:

 

attachicon.gif25 finished 1.jpg

 

attachicon.gif26 finished 2.jpg

 

attachicon.gif27 finished 3.jpg

 

And that is what I called a quick detail job, and yes I did a bit more than I originally planned!!

 

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed,

 

Gary

 

Another great project, Gary.  Looking forward to seeing it develop.

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Gary,

Excellent work.  Now this R1 is SECR/SER vintage, the LCDR/SECR was 4-4-0/0-4-4 or something, is that correct?  I remember earlier someone saying they had the same classification but a different design.  (and why not?)

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Gary,

Excellent work. Now this R1 is SECR/SER vintage, the LCDR/SECR was 4-4-0/0-4-4 or something, is that correct? I remember earlier someone saying they had the same classification but a different design. (and why not?)

Indeed, the LCDR did have a class of 0-4-4t designated R1, handsome engines they were too

post-29975-0-11779800-1499805095.jpg

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Hi Chris,

 

Yes it is of SER vintage. LCDR stock seems remarkably lacking in model form!! However the SECR runnng rights on Oak Hill are inherited from the SER so most SECR stock for the time being will be SER or SECR. I do plan on making some LCDR things in the future, but my priorities lie with the LBSCR stock for the time being, for obvious reasons!!

 

Gary

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Hi Chris,

 

Yes it is of SER vintage. LCDR stock seems remarkably lacking in model form!! However the SECR runnng rights on Oak Hill are inherited from the SER so most SECR stock for the time being will be SER or SECR. I do plan on making some LCDR things in the future, but my priorities lie with the LBSCR stock for the time being, for obvious reasons!!

 

Gary

 

Gary,

I was just checking.  I thought we said it was SER vintage but if it was LCDR I might have looked out for one to go on my list of projects.

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High Gary nice work as always love the way you've gone to the effort to cut the chassis back to give a bit of "Light" under the boiler.

 

  Like you I begrudge paying for small fittings like the air pump and getting a range of detail parts for a loco can soon add up also after paying good money for what was a lump of white metal masquerading as an air pump which was so poor it went straight in the bin I decided to make as much as I could and now make all my air pumps out of brass and have even made a small jig to cut and solder them on.

 

   You might recall seeing them on my Caley loco thread but here's an example.

attachicon.gifDunalastair I air pump from brass.jpg

 

 

I may be wrong.....but I thinnk the arrangement on the R1 is not actually an Air Pump (Westinghouse Brake). I think it may well be a Steam Reverser.....The Wainright C class has these I believe?

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I may be wrong.....but I thinnk the arrangement on the R1 is not actually an Air Pump (Westinghouse Brake). I think it may well be a Steam Reverser.....The Wainright C class has these I believe?

 

I'm gonna have to go do some reading now and see if I can confirm that!! It looks like a Westinghouse pump anyway so what I built will do.

 

Gary

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