The Oak Hill Branch - LBSCR / SECR 1905ish - New layout starts on page 129

[BlueLightning]

I have a feeling the Branchline's one can be used under the Hornby one.Could be wrong.

 

From memory I have used the cab, tanks, footplate with bits of plasticard inserted to stretch it to length, and bunker again, with plasticard inserted between it and the cab. The current boiler was pinched from a static Jinty as that matched the standard E1 quite well with a bit of work. The body is mostly complete, but as Model Rail will be doing 3 that are suitable for me it seems best to make something different.

 

Gary

[BlueLightning]

It's that time of year again!!! Oak Hill is 3 years old!! and it has been another great year, we end this one with: 54 followers, 2,233 replies, and 72,165 views.

 

 

These numbers are incredible, and I cannot believe how much interest my modelling has generated

 

3 years ago I picked this layout up from it's former owners, it was showing it's age after 12 years of being stored in a garage. Before collecting it I didn't know what I was going to do with it. I had never seen it and it had been described as "junk", but it was free. Once I had collected it I decided I would being an experiment, to see if someone with no skill and no money could model pre-grouping. 3 years later I find myself in a totally different situation, I no longer have no money, and a fair few people seem to think I have at least some form of skill, at least that's what the numbers above tell me.

 

So at this point I feel that my experiment must be over, and be deemed a success. It would appear someone with no money and no skill can in fact model pre-grouping, as long as they have the help and support of the members of RMWeb's civilised section. This obviously does not mean the end of the layout, far from it Oak Hill needs to live at least another 10 years!!

 

With these things in mind I have recreated pictures taken in the layouts first week here, and I present them to you as comparisons below. Please note I have been playing with some scenic ideas recently so there is some things that look like they need replacing, that's because they do!!

 

 

 

 

 

I have also had a new arrival this week!! Although slightly too late for Oak Hill, it will be fine for Hailsham, although I think the livery needs backdating slightly!

 

and to end this anniversary post, an announcement! Over the last few months I have been looking at the things I achieved with this layout, and it's stock over the time I had no money, and I decided something I want to do is pass on the knowledge I have picked up, with that in mind, my workbench has been turning into a film studio!!

 

 

Still a couple more things to get, but I hope to start filming next month with some tips and how-tos aimed and beginners to the hobby having to work on a budget. So my YouTube channel should be picking up with lots of new videos soon!

 

Once again guys thank you for your support over the last 3 years. Here's to the future!!!

 

Gary

 

[James Harrison]

Congratulations on the anniversary!  Looking forward to seeing Oak Hill continue to develop. 

 

The engine shed- is that the Wills Craftsman kit?  Could I ask, what is the brickwork bond on it?  I can't find a nice clear high-res photo of it online anywhere and much as I like the overall look of the shed I have a bit of a bee in my bonnet about architectural details in my models being right.  The only reason I'm asking is because I'm considering buying one for myself. 

[BlueLightning]

Thanks Alex!

 

Hopefully the layouts have a long life ahead of them. As you well know rescuing layouts has it's own issues that building from scratch doesn't!!

 

As you the media venture, I am open to suggestions of things that people would like to see me cover, so if you have any then let me know!

 

 

 

Thanks James,

 

Yes it's the Wills Craftsman engine shed, the brickwork is Stretcher bond, not correct for LB&SCR, but I originally got it for a different project that never happened.

 

Gary

Edited January 25, 2019 by BlueLightning

[Lancaster622]

Yes, here is to the nest 3 years and beyond!

 

Like the Atlantics name

[BlueLightning]

Hi all,

 

Just a quick one today.

 

Found a great deal on Amazon the other day. So I now finally have a copy of Russell's Southern Locomotives book.

 

 

Plenty of drawings, so perhaps I will complete my goal of having at least one of each type of loco owned by the LBSC on the 31st December 1922 one day. The only question is, where to start.

 

Gary

[TurboSnail]

15 minutes ago, BlueLightning said:

Hi all,

 

Just a quick one today.

 

Found a great deal on Amazon the other day. So I now finally have a copy of Russell's Southern Locomotives book.

 

 

Plenty of drawings, so perhaps I will complete my goal of having at least one of each type of loco owned by the LBSC on the 31st December 1922 one day. The only question is, where to start.

 

Gary

 

Snap!

 

A very useful one for drawings, although less applicable the earlier you model. Mine has a very well thumbed SECR section, less so for the other bits. The drawings I've checked for scale are almost exactly right for OO as well, which is nice.

[Skinnylinny]

Well, rather than where to start... where are you at already? What have you got?

[BlueLightning]

@TurboSnail

 

My SE&CR section shall get very well thumbed in time too!! I have a similar aim for that as I do LB&SCR but I want to do the LB&SCR ones first. Thankfully I have drawings for most of the earlier stuff I want. Although for some of it I think 3D printing would be better than my usually methods! Are you open to doing some paid commissions? All be it not for some time.

 

@Skinnylinny

 

I actually worked out where I am so far the other day!!

 

So Types I have, that are running:

 

A1 (Shocking, I know!!)

B1

C2 (kind of, it was built to my limits at the time and needs scrapping really)

C2x

E2

E2 Extended Tanks

E4

E5

H1

H2

I3

L

 

Types I currently have solutions for:

 

D1 (SEF kit, body built, needs chassi building)

D3 (M7 chassis, will get Golden Arrow body to go on top)

E1 (Model rail RTR coming 2020 at the earliest)

E1 Special (body built, needs chassis

 

Things I currently haven't started in any way:

 

A1x

B2

B2x

B3

B4

B4x

C1

C3

D1x

D3x

E1x

E3

E4x

E5x

E6

I1

I2

I4

J1

J2

K

 

So there is still quite a bit to do!!

 

Gary

[jcm@gwr]

4 hours ago, BlueLightning said:

@TurboSnail

 

My SE&CR section shall get very well thumbed in time too!! I have a similar aim for that as I do LB&SCR but I want to do the LB&SCR ones first. Thankfully I have drawings for most of the earlier stuff I want. Although for some of it I think 3D printing would be better than my usually methods! Are you open to doing some paid commissions? All be it not for some time.

 

@Skinnylinny

 

I actually worked out where I am so far the other day!!

 

So Types I have, that are running:

 

A1 (Shocking, I know!!)

B1

C2 (kind of, it was built to my limits at the time and needs scrapping really)

C2x

E2

E2 Extended Tanks

E4

E5

H1

H2

I3

L

 

Types I currently have solutions for:

 

D1 (SEF kit, body built, needs chassi building)

D3 (M7 chassis, will get Golden Arrow body to go on top)

E1 (Model rail RTR coming 2020 at the earliest)

E1 Special (body built, needs chassis

 

Things I currently haven't started in any way:

 

A1x

B2

B2x

B3

B4

B4x

C1

C3

D1x

D3x

E1x

E3

E4x

E5x

E6

I1

I2

I4

J1

J2

K

 

So there is still quite a bit to do!!

 

Gary

 

I assume/hope you have been following Tony Teague and his Churminster & Stowe Magna layout thread.

He has a larger list of Southern locos, and a good selection of solutions.

[BlueLightning]

Jeff,

 

I have indeed. Tony's collection is something very special! I think I will be using a few of his solutions for locos I haven't started yet. I had the idea of doing the full LB&SCR line up before I I saw his thread, but seeing his plans, and subsequently what he has achieved is one of the things that cemented the idea that it was feasible.

 

Gary

[Edwardian]

6 hours ago, BlueLightning said:

Hi all,

 

Just a quick one today.

 

Found a great deal on Amazon the other day. So I now finally have a copy of Russell's Southern Locomotives book.

 

 

Plenty of drawings, so perhaps I will complete my goal of having at least one of each type of loco owned by the LBSC on the 31st December 1922 one day. The only question is, where to start.

 

Gary

 

A very useful acquisition.  

[BlueLightning]

Good Evening All!!

 

I want to start this post by reminding everyone I have always been a proud coarse scale modeller, and never had any pretensions otherwise.

 

However......................

 

I recently got invited to operate a rather nice P4 layout, Sandford & Banwell by Jeff Day, (It's at Doncaster this weekend, if you can, go and see it!) and I have been having fine scale nightmares ever since!! (Thanks Martin, I know you're reading this, and it's all your fault!!)

 

while I am not ready to rip up all my layouts and start relaying track with a 2.33mm wider gauge just yet, there are scenic things I am no longer happy with that could use with some much better replacements, I have picked a few things out for pictures. and would like some feedback on suggestions to improve them, in most cases I plan an outright rip up and replace!!

 

Firstly the ballast, all of it.

 

 

The "Ash" in the yard areas is to dark, to uniform in colour, and too large. This has really stuck out to me since building Brighthelmstone, I had originally though about using real loco ash like I did for Brighthelmstone, however as Oak Hill is actually designed to be a running layout the fact this can be conductive could be an issue. I am open to suggestions as to what I should use instead.

 

 

The "Shingle" on the running lines, I have never been fully happy with the colour of this, however at the time, I did not feel I was capable of using anything but shop brought things. Much like the ash this is too big as well, so replacement must be with something smaller, an idea I did have was that since the LB&SCR used shingle from Eastbourne, and as I am about 10 miles from Eastbourne beach, I could always "acquire" some sand from the beach. The grade can't be too far off what 4mm shingle should be, and in theory the colour should be a match for LB&SCR ballast. Thoughts on this??

 

While on the above picture the point rodding, until recently I didn't realise just how over scale it is, I knew it wasn't right, but it is incredibly wrong!! So I am thinking of replacing it using Modelu LNWR stools with .4mm brass wire for the actual rodding (LB&SCR rodding was round). Cranks etc would have to be gotten elsewhere, I have been told where to get them but can't remember off the top of my head. Again I would love to hear your thoughts on this. Would there be a better source of point rodding stools for LB&SCR prototype?
 

 

Grass, hedges, etc. The grass at the moment is rather uniform in length and colour, this is because it is all from the same bag of static grass, I assume this can be sorted by getting some different lengths and colours and adding to what is already there. As for the hedges, I have been toying with the idea of putting some on top of the hill so that I can make the top removable to give me better access to the fiddle yard entrance, using them to hide the cuts in the board. However I have no idea what to make them out of, the "test hedge" is something I found laying about. and is nowhere near the quality I want. So I would love some tips and ideas about this.

 

For now I will leave this here. However any feedback from anyone would be greatly received!

 

Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed,

 

Gary

Edited February 7, 2019 by BlueLightning

[Corbs]

Is any decent railway every 'finished' though, Gary? The urge to continue modifying, tweaking and improving is a positive sign. 

 

Do you think you could alter the colour of the shingle with a light weathering wash? Maybe with an earthy colour?

[Edwardian]

As I found you can pre-colour chinchilla dust with paint, I am minded to use it for most things from road to yard surfaces.

 

You used it for the platform?

 

Is that not small enough for ash or shingle?

[BlueLightning]

16 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Is any decent railway every 'finished' though, Gary? The urge to continue modifying, tweaking and improving is a positive sign. 

 

Do you think you could alter the colour of the shingle with a light weathering wash? Maybe with an earthy colour?

 

You're quite right Corbs, no decent railways is ever finished!! I like the earthy wash idea, I think it may work for the shingle, and it's certainly worth a go before I pull it up! Thanks for that.

 

PS. I saw your use of a LaisDCC decoder on Instagram, I have now ordered myself one after seeing the price!! Provided it gets on with both my Lenz system and my home made controller I may switch to using just them. So thanks for that as well!!

 

8 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

As I found you can pre-colour chinchilla dust with paint, I am minded to use it for most things from road to yard surfaces.

 

You used it for the platform?

 

Is that not small enough for ash or shingle?

 

James,

 

You are right I did use chinchilla dust for the platform, and I still have a small amount left. You are not the first person to suggest this to me, How does one go about pre-colouring it?

 

Gary

Edited February 7, 2019 by BlueLightning

[Edwardian]

Just now, BlueLightning said:

 

 

 

James, you are right I did use chinchilla dust for the platform, and I still have a small amount left. You are not the first person to suggest this to me, How does one go about pre-colouring it?

 

Gary

 

Well, I employed child labour .....

 

Mix it with paint, bake in the oven and then break it back down.  I have a selection of greys - and used them to represent NER ash ballast - and buffs and browns.  I used a buff mixed with the natural colour for drill hall forecourt.

[Corbs]

8 minutes ago, BlueLightning said:

 

PS. I saw your use of a LaisDCC decoder on Instagram, I have now ordered myself one after seeing the price!! Provided it gets on with both my Lenz system and my home made controller I may switch to using just them. So thanks for that as well!!

 

Cool! It was so cheap it made sense as I'd never done any DCC before. I have read elsewhere that if you are not fitting the stay-alive, make sure you individually tape up the output wires from the decoder as they can touch each other and short-circuit otherwise. 

[BlueLightning]

4 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Well, I employed child labour .....

 

Mix it with paint, bake in the oven and then break it back down.  I have a selection of greys - and used them to represent NER ash ballast - and buffs and browns.  I used a buff mixed with the natural colour for drill hall forecourt.

 

Thanks James,

 

I can see my children loving getting their hands dirty! I think a visit to the pet shop is required tomorrow!!

 

3 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Cool! It was so cheap it made sense as I'd never done any DCC before. I have read elsewhere that if you are not fitting the stay-alive, make sure you individually tape up the output wires from the decoder as they can touch each other and short-circuit otherwise. 

 

I will remember to tape up the outputs for the stay alive, although for the price I will probably get one of them as well once I know I am happy with the decoder!! Together they will have still cost less than I usually pay for a 21 pin chip!

 

Gary

[jcm@gwr]

With respect to the uniform grass, are you concerned about colour or length?

The length would be affected by whether or not it is farmland (with grazing animals)

or wild meadows. The colour would/could be determined by the distance that you

observe it from, the greater the distance, the more uniform it appears to be.

 

A while ago, for a challenge, I built a small 0 gauge shunting plank, on a budget.

So for the grass I collected sawdust and dyed it myself, I bought 7 different shades

of green dye, split the sawdust into 7 equal amounts, dyed it, dried it, and then mixed

it all up together!

That worked really well, as from a distance it looked even, but up close you could see 

the variations in colour.

I used a similar method (sort of) for the ballast. I had various grades/colours of ballast,

I mixed them together and then graded the mix with various sized sieves .

The largest lumps became 4mm wagon loads, then 7mm ballast, then 4mm ballast, etc.

When I used it as ballast, I brushed it in place, then the mix of 'glue' was where I got 

the variation. I mixed in a small squeezy/dropper bottle (equal amouts of PVA & Klear,

a splash of meths and a dollop of black/dark grey acrylic/poster paint).

Because the 'dollop' was never the same, it gave a nice variation to the ballast colour.

[Andy Hayter]

Quote

 

 

Not sure why t the system wants to put a quote box so please ignore it.

 

Gary regarding the length of grass, with sheep in the field the length would be (or would very quickly become) very short.  In mixed husbandry environments (aka self sufficiency) cattle graze the ground and leave the grass short.  Then you put sheep in to mow it to a fine sward.

[BlueLightning]

1 hour ago, jcm@gwr said:

With respect to the uniform grass, are you concerned about colour or length?

The length would be affected by whether or not it is farmland (with grazing animals)

or wild meadows. The colour would/could be determined by the distance that you

observe it from, the greater the distance, the more uniform it appears to be.

 

A while ago, for a challenge, I built a small 0 gauge shunting plank, on a budget.

So for the grass I collected sawdust and dyed it myself, I bought 7 different shades

of green dye, split the sawdust into 7 equal amounts, dyed it, dried it, and then mixed

it all up together!

That worked really well, as from a distance it looked even, but up close you could see 

the variations in colour.

I used a similar method (sort of) for the ballast. I had various grades/colours of ballast,

I mixed them together and then graded the mix with various sized sieves .

The largest lumps became 4mm wagon loads, then 7mm ballast, then 4mm ballast, etc.

When I used it as ballast, I brushed it in place, then the mix of 'glue' was where I got 

the variation. I mixed in a small squeezy/dropper bottle (equal amouts of PVA & Klear,

a splash of meths and a dollop of black/dark grey acrylic/poster paint).

Because the 'dollop' was never the same, it gave a nice variation to the ballast colour.

 

Jeff,

 

Thanks for that. I like the idea of adding some paint to the glue for variation. I will definitely try this!! As for the grass see below.

 

36 minutes ago, Andy Hayter said:

 

Not sure why t the system wants to put a quote box so please ignore it.

 

Gary regarding the length of grass, with sheep in the field the length would be (or would very quickly become) very short.  In mixed husbandry environments (aka self sufficiency) cattle graze the ground and leave the grass short.  Then you put sheep in to mow it to a fine sward.

 

Thanks Andy,

 

Yes you are right about the grass with the sheep, however the grass is the same over the whole layout, and I have only recently moved the sheep to that field, I still need to paint them! (any tips from anyone would help)

 

Gary

[corneliuslundie]

"I still need to paint them"

Ah yes, but what breed? A whole new research project looms.

Jonathan

Who lives in an area with several times as many sheep as people

[BlueLightning]

5 minutes ago, corneliuslundie said:

Ah yes, but what breed?

 

Now this I do know! 'Southdown' I did the research for that some time ago. Popular with shepards on the local chalky soils throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries as they helped with the fertility allowing crop growth the following year. 

 

Gary

[corneliuslundie]

So all a slightly dirty creamy white, no black noses and knees like the Kerry Hill breed. Just the eyes and toenails to touch in! I assume that the coloured marks are a recent idea, along with numbers on mothers and their lambs.

Jonathan