So I bought a cheap airbrush kit

[Colin]

Really glad I picked up on this thread - I bought the very same compressor recently, and can only say that the instructions are possibly the worst I have ever seen. After reading the OP's & Rumblestripe's posts I now know how to get it working, thanks guys.

Edited June 19, 2016 by Colin

[sn]

Just got one of these compressors and airbrushes and hope to tryiit out tomorrow-  Thanks for the detailed instructions on taking the airbrush apart. A question however,  this does not have to be done in order just to clean it after use each time does it?

[K14]

A question however,  this does not have to be done in order just to clean it after use each time does it?

No. Not every time. My 'session' regime is as follows:—

 

1 - Empty any excess paint in the colour cup (or jar) back into your tin/bottle/can. If there's only a nad's in there, don't bother & go to...

2 - Part fill jar/cup with appropriate thinner & swill it about to get as much paint out as you can. Discard the resulting yuck.

3 - Using an old, but soft brush, clean out any paint build-up in the nozzle cap.

4 - Refill the cup/jar with clean thinners.

5 - Blow it through the 'brush for a few seconds with the needle pulled fully back.

6 - Put your finger over the nozzle cap & blow through again. You should see bubbles flowing into the cup/jar. This is called 'back flushing'.

7 - Repeat stages 4, 5 & 6 until there's no sign of colour in the thinners in the cup/jar.

8 - Blow it through once more for luck.

 

If you're cleaning between colour changes, you're good to go, but if you're packing the brush away I'd advocate one further step...

 

9 - Unscrew the handle to reveal the needle clamp (usually a little knurled cone affair). Pull the trigger all the way back & loosen the clamp. Let the trigger spring forward, then tighten the clamp. Repeat once only. This keeps the needle clear of the nozzle whilst the whole lot dries off & can help prevent the needle 'glueing' itself to the nozzle which is a real risk if there's a hint of paint lurking in the front end. When you come to re-use the brush, loosen the clamp & gently twist-push the needle home then tighten the clamp.

 

It sounds a bit of a faff, I know, but once you've got the know of it it'll only take a couple of minutes. You should only need to dis-assemble the 'brush if you start getting eccentric spray patterns or if it's been laid up for a while & feels a bit stiff.

 

Pete.

 

[sn]

Thanks for clarifying that Pete, good advice which I will follow. Thanks.

 

Len

[N15class]

No. Not every time. My 'session' regime is as follows:—

 

1 - Empty any excess paint in the colour cup (or jar) back into your tin/bottle/can. If there's only a nad's in there, don't bother & go to...

2 - Part fill jar/cup with appropriate thinner & swill it about to get as much paint out as you can. Discard the resulting yuck.

3 - Using an old, but soft brush, clean out any paint build-up in the nozzle cap.

4 - Refill the cup/jar with clean thinners.

5 - Blow it through the 'brush for a few seconds with the needle pulled fully back.

6 - Put your finger over the nozzle cap & blow through again. You should see bubbles flowing into the cup/jar. This is called 'back flushing'.

7 - Repeat stages 4, 5 & 6 until there's no sign of colour in the thinners in the cup/jar.

8 - Blow it through once more for luck.

 

If you're cleaning between colour changes, you're good to go, but if you're packing the brush away I'd advocate one further step...

 

9 - Unscrew the handle to reveal the needle clamp (usually a little knurled cone affair). Pull the trigger all the way back & loosen the clamp. Let the trigger spring forward, then tighten the clamp. Repeat once only. This keeps the needle clear of the nozzle whilst the whole lot dries off & can help prevent the needle 'glueing' itself to the nozzle which is a real risk if there's a hint of paint lurking in the front end. When you come to re-use the brush, loosen the clamp & gently twist-push the needle home then tighten the clamp.

 

It sounds a bit of a faff, I know, but once you've got the know of it it'll only take a couple of minutes. You should only need to dis-assemble the 'brush if you start getting eccentric spray patterns or if it's been laid up for a while & feels a bit stiff.

 

Pete.

I agree.

 

Also find it handy to blow thinners before starting too. If I am using more than one colour in a session I started with the lightest and work darker. Just a quick blow through of thinners, is enough between colours. Saves time, more often than not cleaning takes longer than painting. 

[sn]

Thanks Rumblestripe for the further shots of your tank paint job, looks great.  Also the info on paint washes, dusting and varnishing were useful too.

 

I put my kit together over the weekend and had a play; results are shown here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-track-laying-wiring-commenced/?p=2220679

 

 

P1090109a.jpg

 

I also thought I would share a photo of one of the attachments that came with the kit; this is the duel brush holder.  This is fixed by removing the red plastic regulator locking ring and dropping the holder over the top.  One advantage of using this apart from the obvious, is that it partially covers over the three way adaptor, which also came with the kit, thus giving the adaptor a little bit of protection from accidental knocks, as it does stick out quite a bit.

 

One early question I have, which I am sure I may work out over time but I will ask anyway is, on the bottom feed airbrush version, is there a way to limit the flow of paint?  I guess by some form of stop lock to the trigger pull back.  I had a fiddle and could not work it out.  Instructions did not give anything on this.

The holder on the package you bought is better than the one with  mine.

[Jaggzuk]

The holder on the package you bought is better than the one with  mine.

Its ok, but the vibration from the pump working turns the airbrush round so that with open side cups these tend tip downwards. I might take it off and mount it on a block of wood if it annoys me to much.

[sn]

Ok so tried the set out for the first time today. Not bad. The compressor runs well and pretty quietly and cuts out as it is supposed to do at 50psi.

 

The actual airbrush (I only got one in my set! ) with a top feed works well but it seems the spry arc from it is rather large and seemingly unmodifiable in its size of speay output (am I missing something?)  says it is 0.2- 0.3 size

 

Handles well in the hand and feels much better to handle than my old badger airbrush!

 

 

On a general spraying note. Anyone out there using humbrol paints - what ratio of paint to thinners do you use when spraying?  If I ghouldnt be using humbrol paints to weather then what would you recommend to use? 

 

Also, rather than mixing batches of paint are there any very  small airtight containers that can be used to store batches of paint?

 

So many questions, so lttle time! 

 

Len

[K14]

The actual airbrush (I only got one in my set! ) with a top feed works well but it seems the spray arc from it is rather large and seemingly unmodifiable in its size of spray output (am I missing something?)  says it is 0.2- 0.3 size

 

Sounds like the needle is pulled all the way back so you're getting full spray from the start.

 

Does this post on page 2 help?

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107480-so-i-bought-a-cheap-airbrush-kit/page-2&do=findComment&comment=2222298

 

If not, if you can post up a photo of the airbrush and let us know what its model number is, that'll assist.

 

 

 

[N15class]

The paint should be mix to the consistency of milk. There is no ratio as such as it depends on the thickness of the paint to start with, and what you use as a dilutent. 

[Paul W]

 Len

 

The size/width of spray is governed by the position of the needle within the nozzle combined with the distance between the nozzle and the surface to be sprayed AND the amount of paint which is discharged through the nozzle and the speed of movement over the surface. All of these will effect the size/width/quality of the line of paint applied and each will affect the outcome in varying degrees. Practice will make things easier and better.

 

Check the position of your needle and ensure that it is located as far in the nozzle as it will go whilst the trigger button is in the closed position, but be careful not to force the needle any further than it will go as this can lead to the cracking of the nozzle. Also check that the needle has a sharp point to it and that you haven't put a small but not insignificant bend in the end. If you have then this will need to be removed as it will inhibit the smooth exit of paint and you can be sure that it will cause a bit of a splatter at the most inconvenient time. I use a mini drill and put the needle in the chuck and then use the finest grade of wet and dry paper to get the desired finish, but again don't apply too much pressure at any one time. Take your time to get a point on it that is good and sharp.

 

I also find it helpful to unassemble the whole of the brush into separate components about once every 20 hours of spraying, or each month which ever is soonest, and put in a small container with a lid and spray with "Fairy Power Spray" (other detergents are available) ensuring all surfaces are covered and leave for a couple of hours, with the lid on. Do not leave for too long as the rubber seals/gaskets may be affected. Rinse in warm water and dry off, then with kitchen roll lightly soaked in thinners rub over all surfaces which will then shine and be ready for use. This ensures that any build up of paint in the nozzle area and in the body of the brush is removed with very little effort, as just blowing thinners through will not dissolve any build up of clumped paint material in the nozzle.

 

For extremely stubborn crud removal from the nozzle area prior to the "Fairy" application I use the needle itself to gently glide through the edges of the nozzle by angling the needle to run over all of the inner surface of the nozzle. Again care is needed not to bend the needle end.

 

I use Railmatch Paints (other paints are available) and find them easy to use and use the HMG thinners to mix, as both these products are manufactured by HMG and are completely compatible. I will not mix manufacturers paints/thinners as this can and will lead to clumping issues, especially if mixing a large batch to use over a few days.

 

I have found that a great source of air tight small jars for mixing and storing sprayable paint are from supermarket cafes who throw away a considerable amount of small 30g jam jars. Put them in boiling water for 10 mins, remove the labels and put them in the dishwasher and then they are ready to go. Just check each jar & lid are airtight by filling half way with hot water, putting the lid on and giving it a good shake. If it hisses with the lid tight in isn't airtight and should be marked as such, but if the only hiss is when you undo the lid then it is and can be used to store the paint.

 

Another tip I can share with you regarding paint mixes and storage is that even after a day of sitting the mix will start to separate and settle. Prior to giving it a good shake and stir, warm the mix up a bit by putting it on a radiator, into hot water or by some other means. I have a 500w lamp which light up my work area so I sit it on this for 10 mins. This works especially well with varnish, as I have found that reconstituting a varnish mix after some time is impossible without some heat.

 

As with most things many people will have their own way of doing things but the above works well for me.

 

Hope some of the above helps.

[Paul W]

The paint should be mix to the consistency of milk. There is no ratio as such as it depends on the thickness of the paint to start with, and what you use as a dilutent. 

Full fat, skimmed or semi-skimmed, organic?   (;

 

Generally I start with about 60/40 paint /thinner mix and then add which ever one needs a bit more. Again experience over time will help when it comes to the mix. That's another reason why I try to stick to the same manufacturer as that should then negate the problem of different viscosity of the paint from different manufacturers and you would hope that the same manufacturers paint would keep a consistent viscosity, although I doubt this to be 100% true in reality.

[sn]

 Len

 

The size/width of spray is governed by the position of the needle within the nozzle combined with the distance between the nozzle and the surface to be sprayed AND the amount of paint which is discharged through the nozzle and the speed of movement over the surface. All of these will effect the size/width/quality of the line of paint applied and each will affect the outcome in varying degrees. Practice will make things easier and better.

 

Check the position of your needle and ensure that it is located as far in the nozzle as it will go whilst the trigger button is in the closed position, but be careful not to force the needle any further than it will go as this can lead to the cracking of the nozzle. Also check that the needle has a sharp point to it and that you haven't put a small but not insignificant bend in the end. If you have then this will need to be removed as it will inhibit the smooth exit of paint and you can be sure that it will cause a bit of a splatter at the most inconvenient time. I use a mini drill and put the needle in the chuck and then use the finest grade of wet and dry paper to get the desired finish, but again don't apply too much pressure at any one time. Take your time to get a point on it that is good and sharp.

 

I also find it helpful to unassemble the whole of the brush into separate components about once every 20 hours of spraying, or each month which ever is soonest, and put in a small container with a lid and spray with "Fairy Power Spray" (other detergents are available) ensuring all surfaces are covered and leave for a couple of hours, with the lid on. Do not leave for too long as the rubber seals/gaskets may be affected. Rinse in warm water and dry off, then with kitchen roll lightly soaked in thinners rub over all surfaces which will then shine and be ready for use. This ensures that any build up of paint in the nozzle area and in the body of the brush is removed with very little effort, as just blowing thinners through will not dissolve any build up of clumped paint material in the nozzle.

 

For extremely stubborn crud removal from the nozzle area prior to the "Fairy" application I use the needle itself to gently glide through the edges of the nozzle by angling the needle to run over all of the inner surface of the nozzle. Again care is needed not to bend the needle end.

 

I use Railmatch Paints (other paints are available) and find them easy to use and use the HMG thinners to mix, as both these products are manufactured by HMG and are completely compatible. I will not mix manufacturers paints/thinners as this can and will lead to clumping issues, especially if mixing a large batch to use over a few days.

 

I have found that a great source of air tight small jars for mixing and storing sprayable paint are from supermarket cafes who throw away a considerable amount of small 30g jam jars. Put them in boiling water for 10 mins, remove the labels and put them in the dishwasher and then they are ready to go. Just check each jar & lid are airtight by filling half way with hot water, putting the lid on and giving it a good shake. If it hisses with the lid tight in isn't airtight and should be marked as such, but if the only hiss is when you undo the lid then it is and can be used to store the paint.

 

Another tip I can share with you regarding paint mixes and storage is that even after a day of sitting the mix will start to separate and settle. Prior to giving it a good shake and stir, warm the mix up a bit by putting it on a radiator, into hot water or by some other means. I have a 500w lamp which light up my work area so I sit it on this for 10 mins. This works especially well with varnish, as I have found that reconstituting a varnish mix after some time is impossible without some heat.

 

As with most things many people will have their own way of doing things but the above works well for me.

 

Hope some of the above helps.

Oh yes it has helped! Cheers. I adjusted the needle 'rod'? and moved it forward and it is now spraying a smaller area. I couldn't move it all the way forward on its thread as it appeared to bind (a bad thread?) or perhaps it was just as far as it will travel? Didn't want to force it as per your advice,  but anyway still it is much improved.

 

THANKS Paul and K14 and N15 too. I love this forum for the patient and excellent help that is always available.

 

One more question - I've used a Humbrol 'leather' in my weathering in the past to good results. What would anyone substitute for this in the Railmatch range?

[Paul W]

Len

 

It depends what you are trying to depict when using humbrol leather.

 

Personally, for my weathering I use the following Railmatch, (no association with this manufacturer, just a satisfied customer), products as base colours but will also mix these base colours together in various quantities to get variations on the same model or on other models to avoid uniformity.

 

Roof dirt

Weathered black

Matt black

Frame dirt

Dark rust

Brake dust

Satin varnish

 

Depending on the photo I am working from there may be some other colours included.

 

As mentioned above, I also make sure I use the HMG thinners as this is all from the same manufacturer and the thinned paint will be less prone to any separation or clumping problems when stored for a while.

[sn]

Len

 

It depends what you are trying to depict when using humbrol leather.

 

Personally, for my weathering I use the following Railmatch, (no association with this manufacturer, just a satisfied customer), products as base colours but will also mix these base colours together in various quantities to get variations on the same model or on other models to avoid uniformity.

 

Roof dirt

Weathered black

Matt black

Frame dirt

Dark rust

Brake dust

Satin varnish

 

Depending on the photo I am working from there may be some other colours included.

 

As mentioned above, I also make sure I use the HMG thinners as this is all from the same manufacturer and the thinned paint will be less prone to any separation or clumping problems when stored for a while.

A helpful list Paul, thanks. I find the leather gives that uncared but warm  look on locos. I am always surprised at just how diffierently but correctly weathered locos can look aren't you? 

[Paul W]

Len

 

As with most hobbies we are always striving for things to look as prototypical as possible and the weathering of loco's, stock and lineside are part of this.

 

It is always the case that the way we do things and with what is always developing, for example, some people prefer the use of powders, some the use of acrylics and some the use of enamels. How we apply the weathering is also so different, but mostly the outcome is the same in varying degrees.

 

Just thought I would post a couple of photo's of what I am currently working on. It is a friends Hornby class 56 Large Logo which has been renumbered to 56 090, I have fitted sound and I have just started the initial stage of hand applied brush weathering. This will then go into my spray booth for finer application of the above colours and then a good coat of varnish to finish in a couple of days time.

 

 

Edited January 2, 2017 by Paul W

[57xx]

I've just been browsing through the archives as I'm thinking of getting a new airbrush and stumbled on this thread.  I'd just like to correct a common misconception posted on here:

 

 

The way to adjust the pressure at the airbrush end is to connect and operate the airbrush with the black knob in the raised position. You can then turn this knob, while the airbrush is working, until your required pressure shows on the gauge. Then you lower the knob and tighten the red ring.

 

 

 

The Pressure Gauge, yesterday.

 

The air pressure delivered to the airbrush can be adjusted (in a rather crude fashion) by undoing the red knurled ring and the pulling the black knob upwards and twisting.

Thus!

 

The red ring has nothing to do with adjustment of the air pressure. The regulator on these compressors is a standard pneumatic regulator used in all sorts of applications. The red ring is for when the regulator is used in panel mounts and merely secures the regulator to the panel. Unlocking/locking of the adjustment is purely done by lifting/depressing the black knob.  You could take the red ring off and throw it away and it will have no effect on adjustments.

[Mick Bonwick]

I've just been browsing through the archives as I'm thinking of getting a new airbrush and stumbled on this thread.  I'd just like to correct a common misconception posted on here:

 

 

 

The red ring has nothing to do with adjustment of the air pressure. The regulator on these compressors is a standard pneumatic regulator used in all sorts of applications. The red ring is for when the regulator is used in panel mounts and merely secures the regulator to the panel. Unlocking/locking of the adjustment is purely done by lifting/depressing the black knob.  You could take the red ring off and throw it away and it will have no effect on adjustments.

 

Don't believe everything you read on this forum. Especially if it is written by Bonwick.

 

In all the years I've been using this type of compressor it had never occurred to me that the real purpose of that ring had nothing to do with changing air pressure. I have just been and checked them and found, of course, that you are absolutely right. It wasn't that I disbelieved you, you understand, it was that I needed to see for myself. When you look at the ring closely it is patently obvious that it has nothing to do with anything except panel mounting. What a Wally!

 

I owe you a debt of thanks for putting me right. I expect there are a few others whose faces are a slightly pink colour now that they have read this. . . . . . . .

[ColinK]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed.

 

I've cut and pasted several bits into one 'idiots guide' which I've printed out and put in the crate my airbrush stuff lives in.

[rob D2]

Stil haven't the courage to try mine - had it since April 2016 !

I'm in a catch 22 , need nice weather to spray , can't be arsed when it's hot and sunny though especially as it all sounds such a PITA

[Jaggzuk]

Stil haven't the courage to try mine

Yep it is a bit of a deep breath moment and may be feels like a task to far, I certainly felt like that when I first came to use mine. However, the potential opportunities it opens up far outweigh the hassle and initial learning curve. I think so far using it to weather track made its purchase worthwhile.

 

My first atempt was using food colouring on a piece of paper so I could get the feel of it and how to vary the spray effect; did this in the kitchen :-O. My next effort was a bit of weathering on a scrap truck. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/106602-family-8x4-oo-layout-new-video-camera-truck/?p=2220679

 

What sort of work space indoors do you have? Until I can afford an airbrush spray booth, I am just using a shaped cardboard box for spaying objects, the rest is on the layout directly.

 

Give it a go, I am sure it is just that first use inertia you need to get over.

[57xx]

Stil haven't the courage to try mine - had it since April 2016 !

I'm in a catch 22 , need nice weather to spray , can't be arsed when it's hot and sunny though especially as it all sounds such a PITA

 

I had mine for ages before I used it properly. Getting a spray booth helped for me as I didn't have to rely on outside weather. Then it was just getting past the "what if I'm rubbish at it?" "It'll be a pain to clean out" type gremlins but once I'd done a wagon properly I was hooked. The finish is so much better than my brush finished ones.

[rob D2]

Thanks guys,

The space I have is a disused flatends of an old BBQ in the garage....hi tech....

[37403]

Great thread.

I've been looking at getting the airbrush noted in this thread - AS186.

is this the same thing with an alternative brand?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SwitZer-Double-Action-Airbrush-Kit-Compressor-With-Tank-AS186-Paint-Nail-Tatoo/132166170957?epid=26018379175&hash=item1ec5b7b94d:g:b-AAAOSwuIlaWMw9

[Jaggzuk]

Yes, that looks pretty much identical to the one I got form http://www.airbrushheaven.co.uk/. Just different colour.  Nice with two airbrushes too.

 

An interesting obs, is that Airbrush Heaven has stop selling online, while a new supplier sourced.

 

Hope your purchase goes well, it is a nice piece of kit.

 

I would also recommend a spray booth like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/25w-Portable-Airbrush-Spray-Paint-Booth-Filter-Extractor-Kit-Air-Brush-Art-Craft/19023753932?iid=323445097852&chn=ps. Shop around as they price varies a lot