Peco Turntable Motor

[marmand14]

I've just bought one, wired it into the 12v on my controller as per the instructions and although I get a green light for power the motor wouldn't move at all.

 

It does look a good bit of kit but not a good start, I've returned it to the shop.

 

Also of note is that the instructions state that for the peco standard turntable lk-55 you need to add the spacers to the mounting brackets, this is in fact wrong and results in the gap being to big and not in contact with the turntable pole.

 

The instructions are also poor and vague!

[EMAPHIL]

I also had apparent issues with the Peco motor. It turns out my 12v supply was not sufficiently strong and a minimum of 2amps is needed. This is now highlighted by a sticker on the box.

I had a real hard time getting it to work properly due to the flimsy well and slack in the collar. Finally sorted it all and hard glued the motor to the deck. This gives reasonable rotation and not too much vertical teeter as the load shifts.

 

However the internal play in the Peco motor still means I get a bit of unwanted free rotation which I cannot get rid of and with certain locos results in derailment as the deck moves. I'm spending lockdown time trying to figure out how to address this. 

Frankly I wish I'd saved my money and gone for a manual geared drive, but I am where I am.

How have others suffered from this and how did you fix it? 

[N.E. Thing]

Hi, I'm in the process of trying to fit an assembled LK55 tt and Peck motor, and all is really not going well. I am researching high and low to find any solutions.

 

Main problem is the Peco motor seems to not be strong enough to turn the deck smoothly, even without a loco and certainly not with the heaviest locos on it. Visually, the deck wheels don't always turn which means the deck is not staying level for some reason.

 

I guess some problems could be turntable sag, this is about 1mm. Don't know how to resolve this.

 

But reading some comments, it seems the motor is not strong enough regardless. 

 

has anyone got succesful use out of the Peco motor?

 

Are there any turntable installation videos? I have seen some where the tt is installed direct to the baseboard with no support and appear to work fine, but mine does not. Should all tt be supported underneath say with additional wood, if so where are the best support points?

 

Am really struggling here!

 

Thanks 

Edited January 4, 2021 by N.E. Thing
added pic

[bgman]

Sorry to hear you have problems with the motor, whilst I haven't any experience with this product I did have very satisfactory results with the motor from this supplier - https://www.locomotech.com   ( Usual disclaimers )

 

Here is a video I made of the initial installation some years ago...

 

 

I found it to be very reliable and the indexing plate works very well and is quite in operation, the video was filmed on my iPhone which tends to pick up the noise somewhat !

 

G

 

 

Edited January 4, 2021 by bgman
video inserted

[jcredfer]

7 hours ago, bgman said:

Sorry to hear you have problems with the motor, whilst I haven't any experience with this product I did have very satisfactory results with the motor from this supplier - https://www.locomotech.com   ( Usual disclaimers )

 

Here is a video I made of the initial installation some years ago...

 

 

I found it to be very reliable and the indexing plate works very well and is quite in operation, the video was filmed on my iPhone which tends to pick up the noise somewhat !

 

G

 

 

 

I very much have the same recommendation as bgman has for the Locomotech motor.  Mine is almost completely silent and the rotation is as smooth as could be done.  The TT Locomotech motor is on a DCC loco decoder and is very controllable due to the Locomotech gearbox and I have seen very similar results on DC layouts.

 

One small, but significant observation, if I may, is concerned with the observed lack of smooth Bridge rotation, seen by N.E. Thing.  The Peco instructions are clear that the TT Bridge is designed to run on it's wheels, not supported by the central pivot.  Looking at several postings around the internet, before starting to make mine and poor running was clearly an issue for many, with common sagging TT Well floors, as well.  That being fairly common got me to thinking.  The design seemed to be sound enough, with a thick horizontal circular flange at the top of a shallow cylinder and solid floor.  What could possibly go wrong, ummm, time for a look at the kit in front of me.

 

A likely answer was soon apparent, although quite small in size.  Dry fitting the 3 parts of the TT Well, revealed small [1mm] gaps where the walls were meant to be joined and the flange, likewise.  This allows the 3 parts to flex towards each other at the gaps and that closing of the gaps allowed the floor to sag.  Time for the magnifying eyepieces to look at the joining faces, which showed a small amount of flash along the Well floor joints.  When removed, the Walls and flange mated perfectly, so no opportunity to close / reduce the circumference - so, no sag.  I used a small Spanish Windlass to hold the 3 base parts together, before applying plastic solvent to the joints, to ensure close fit and can now observe no sign of gaps / sag.  If the TT is already constructed and still has the small gaps, then the sag would benefit from some supporting beams / Ply.

 

 I checked that the TT Bridge wasn't in contact with the floor of the Well at the pivot, so it ran freely on the wheels, so it seemed that all that remained were the rails.  Running a finger across the joints did reveal a very, very small difference in height at the joins, which took seconds with an emery board to smooth.

 

 The result is like bgman has said, smooth running, quiet and very easy to control.  Hope this may be of assistance.

 

Julian

 

[N.E. Thing]

thanks for the messages, am strengthening the turntable with additional wooden bracing and hopefully that will help. If that doesn't help the peco motor perform I will certainly look into the locotech one.

[jcredfer]

2 hours ago, N.E. Thing said:

thanks for the messages, am strengthening the turntable with additional wooden bracing and hopefully that will help. If that doesn't help the peco motor perform I will certainly look into the locotech one.

 

That looks like a good plan, given the weight of the locos which will be rotating, a few light Ply beams could take that sort of weight and deployed round your choice of TT motor.

 

Julian

 

[melmerby]

23 hours ago, jcredfer said:

 

I very much have the same recommendation as bgman has for the Locomotech motor.  Mine is almost completely silent and the rotation is as smooth as could be done.  The TT Locomotech motor is on a DCC loco decoder and is very controllable due to the Locomotech gearbox and I have seen very similar results on DC layouts.

 

One small, but significant observation, if I may, is concerned with the observed lack of smooth Bridge rotation, seen by N.E. Thing.  The Peco instructions are clear that the TT Bridge is designed to run on it's wheels, not supported by the central pivot.  Looking at several postings around the internet, before starting to make mine and poor running was clearly an issue for many, with common sagging TT Well floors, as well.  That being fairly common got me to thinking.  The design seemed to be sound enough, with a thick horizontal circular flange at the top of a shallow cylinder and solid floor.  What could possibly go wrong, ummm, time for a look at the kit in front of me.

 

A likely answer was soon apparent, although quite small in size.  Dry fitting the 3 parts of the TT Well, revealed small [1mm] gaps where the walls were meant to be joined and the flange, likewise.  This allows the 3 parts to flex towards each other at the gaps and that closing of the gaps allowed the floor to sag.  Time for the magnifying eyepieces to look at the joining faces, which showed a small amount of flash along the Well floor joints.  When removed, the Walls and flange mated perfectly, so no opportunity to close / reduce the circumference - so, no sag.  I used a small Spanish Windlass to hold the 3 base parts together, before applying plastic solvent to the joints, to ensure close fit and can now observe no sign of gaps / sag.  If the TT is already constructed and still has the small gaps, then the sag would benefit from some supporting beams / Ply.

 

 I checked that the TT Bridge wasn't in contact with the floor of the Well at the pivot, so it ran freely on the wheels, so it seemed that all that remained were the rails.  Running a finger across the joints did reveal a very, very small difference in height at the joins, which took seconds with an emery board to smooth.

 

 The result is like bgman has said, smooth running, quiet and very easy to control.  Hope this may be of assistance.

 

Julian

 

I built one some years ago (now sitting in the spares drawer) and I screwed the three segments down to a circular piece of 3/8" ply. That made them perfectly flat and it rotate as it should, on the wheels.

 

[Neal Ball]

I too have had issues with the motor assembly and also came to the conclusion that the motor isn’t really up to the job.

 

I’m taking a more drastic approach and will be changing the whole table!

 

https://greenwoodmodelrailwayproducts.co.uk/shop/oo-turntable-kits/oo-gauge-70-gwr-turntable/

 

Currently waiting for it to be built.

[bsum]

Attempting to resolve the Peco turntable and motor issue today: I have screwed down the base of the deck with a couple of screws to take out the sag, which has helped it rotate on the wheels better.  Although still a bit jerky.

But how does one eliminate the slack in the motor gearing to keep the tt perfectly aligned with the exit track?  A shame it cannot 'click' into place.

[jcredfer]

4 hours ago, bsum said:

Attempting to resolve the Peco turntable and motor issue today: I have screwed down the base of the deck with a couple of screws to take out the sag, which has helped it rotate on the wheels better.  Although still a bit jerky.

But how does one eliminate the slack in the motor gearing to keep the tt perfectly aligned with the exit track?  A shame it cannot 'click' into place.

 

The Peco ones have slack, which is inherent in the design, regardless of how much anyone caresses them.  Perhaps I may refer you back, about 6 posts, to the post about the Locomotech motor and the construction of the TT Well, hope that helps.

 

Julian