Castle Aching

[Edwardian]

The body  moulding and the glazing are, of course, rather thick.  Perhaps the etched Roxey kits would get you closer. 

[Edwardian]

Thanks for the help so far. Revised coach brake gear for comment, please

 

[Northroader]

You need to drop your brakeshaft and vee hangers lower to get enough clearance for the brake cylinder and it’s stroke.

[Edwardian]

4 minutes ago, Northroader said:

You need to drop your brakeshaft and vee hangers lower to get enough clearance for the brake cylinder and it’s stroke.

 

OK, but several folk said the V hanger needed to be raised (compare please with the first version).

[Compound2632]

3 minutes ago, Northroader said:

You need to drop your brakeshaft and vee hangers lower to get enough clearance for the brake cylinder and it’s stroke.

 

I told him to move them up a bit! On the drawing I sent James (a Midland one of course) the cross-shaft is 11" below the bottom of the solebar, subsequently revised to 12". That puts it 4¼" above the centre-line of the axles (revised to 3¼").

 

One thing that I think is still not quite right in the sketch is the yokes - all four should have the same angles, the inner ones have longer straight sections. They should look like wire coat-hangers.

[Compound2632]

Where did my vacuum cylinder post go?

[Caley Jim]

Am I not correct in thinking that there should not be a supporting pivot (shown as white outlines in the above drawing) for the lever attached to the yokes?  I understood that the brake rods first pulled the whole yoke assembly inwards until the outer blocks contacted the wheels, at which point the point of attachment of that yoke to the lever (now not able to move further) became the pivot resulting in the inner blocks being pulled onto the wheels.

 

Jim

[Edwardian]

1 minute ago, Compound2632 said:

 

I told him to move them up a bit! On the drawing I sent James (a Midland one of course) the cross-shaft is 11" below the bottom of the solebar, subsequently revised to 12". That puts it 4¼" above the centre-line of the axles (revised to 3¼").

 

Unfortunately the resolution on the MR drawing was not good enough for the designer to use. he said.

 

3" or so above the axles or the transverse brake rod visible just above the lower footboard looks quite reasonable to me.

 

These M&GN coaches are 'mainline' 4-wheelers, but quite short

  

 

1 minute ago, Compound2632 said:

One thing that I think is still not quite right in the sketch is the yokes - all four should have the same angles, the inner ones have longer straight sections. They should look like wire coat-hangers.

 

Understood

[Northroader]

Looking at the drawing there and the 3D, in the first the visible “top” of the brake cylinder and the vee hangers is level with the bottom edge of the solebar,  and the 3D they are level with the top of the solebar, touching the floor, so you’ve lost the depth of the solebar, making the cylinder look like a pancake.

[Compound2632]

20 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

Unfortunately the resolution on the MR drawing was not good enough for the designer to use. he said.

 

You should have said - higher resolution could be made available.

[Edwardian]

8 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:

 

You should have said - higher resolution could be made available.

 

Sorry. If so, please can it.

[Compound2632]

12 minutes ago, Edwardian said:

 

Sorry. If so, please can it.

 

To your @gmail a/c.

[Edwardian]

Having initially missed the announcement, I thought the KR Models intention to produce Haydock Foundry's Bellerophon warranted being made much of, so I have started a topic here:

 

 

If anyone has any gen on these locomotives or the Haydock system, I would be happy to add to my modest store of knowledge ion the subject. 

 

[Edwardian]

I may have found the perfect industrial tank engine for a freelance scheme, Robert Stephenson works number 2310, the fate of which is apparently unrecorded.

 

One for the Norfolk Minerals Railway, perhaps?

 

[CKPR]

That looks convertible from an old Dapol or K's 'Terrier' ?

[Edwardian]

2 minutes ago, CKPR said:

That looks convertible from an old Dapol or K's 'Terrier' ?

 

3'6" wheels, not evenly spaced, which suggests to me that it might be another candidate for this old favourite (with the o/s motion discarded and turned back to front):

 

 

 

[Edwardian]

Now, if you lead a pure and wholesome life, and subscribe to the Great Eastern Railway Society, you are permitted to buy this ....

 

 

See you all in a few months' time. 

 

 

[Annie]

Ooooooooooooo just what I need.  Thank you James.

[St Enodoc]

10 hours ago, Edwardian said:

Now, if you lead a pure and wholesome life, and subscribe to the Great Eastern Railway Society, you are permitted to buy this ....

 

 

See you all in a few months' time. 

 

 

Regrettably (or not?), I fail on both counts.

[Hroth]

17 hours ago, Edwardian said:

Now, if you lead a pure and wholesome life, and subscribe to the Great Eastern Railway Society, you are permitted to buy this ....

 

 

See you all in a few months' time. 

 

 

 

It'd certainly be lighter on the bookshelf...

 

[Edwardian]

On 02/04/2021 at 11:07, Edwardian said:

 

I did indulge myself with this

 

Because I think it's intended to be this

 

 

As built, this SER merchandise open had low curved ends, but, says Bixley et al, by 1898 some had been subject to an unusual conversion whereby drop-flat doors were added at the ends.  So, it will be interesting to see the ends of the wagon when it arrives. The sides, however, are consistent with the modification (no corner plates and a suggestion of the replacement strapping, which interfaced with the end door catches). 

 

I would change the livery to conform with the drawing, which is based on "a distant view at Paddock Wood" c.1910. 

 

This arrived, and the ends do, indeed, match that of the suspected prototype.

 

I am very pleased with this, and will now have a SE&CR loco coal wagon. Hurrah!

 

 

Onto other matters, track laying has re-commenced ion the test track.

 

I found a second hand turnout that was ideal for forming the loop.  It seems to function perfectly well mechanically. 

 

Please can someone explain to me how to wire it?

 

(you know I have no grasp of the theory, so a 'what goes where' explanation would be most appreciated)

 

[Caley Jim]

2 hours ago, Edwardian said:

Please can someone explain to me how to wire it?

 

(you know I have no grasp of the theory, so a 'what goes where' explanation would be most appreciated)

You need a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch, explained here.

 

 

In the case of a turnout current is going the other way.  The 'common' (usually the centre connection) is wired to the crossing and the other two connections to the two stock rails.  The switch needs to be incorporated into the operating mechanism for the turnout so that changing the turnout throws the switch.  The simples way to do this is with a SPDT slider switch.

 

 

Mount the switch at the edge of the baseboard so that it points towards the turnout (which way round doesn't matter).   Drill a hole across the button to take you operating wire and connect the other end of the wire to the tie bar of the turnout, with an omega loop formed in between to take up any excess movement in the switch.  Moving the switch back and forth will operate the turnout and change the polarity of the crossing at the same time.

 

For a loop you need to put an insulating break in both rails* of both tracks and a power feed to each end.

 

HTH,

 

Jim

* Note for those in the know, I am aware double breaks are not strickly needed, but I'm keeping it simple for @Edwardian

 

 

Edited April 11, 2021 by Caley Jim
edited for typo

[Donw]

Looking at that turnout it looks to me like someone has produced a homemade switch using the tiebar. Hence the thin wire up to the crossing area. I would be inclined to ignore the home made switch follow Jim's advice  but take that tin bit of wire cut from the tiebar end and connect that to the common on the switch.

Simple rule of electrics where tracks connect frog end to frog end gaps at the end of the frogs are essential.

 

Don

[Edwardian]

Thank you, Gentlemen.

 

That sounds like the answer, but, true to form, I must confess I did not actually understand any of that, or what it is I need to do. 

 

It all seems to make sense as I read it, but then all I have to do is imagine how I translate this information into actions to realise that I haven't actually understood it at all. 

 

All I know is that the loco stops running when it reaches the turnout. 

 

Every time electrics comes up, I just become depressed and vow to give this up as a wholly unsuitable hobby.

 

I did not even understand the explanation of the switch from Electronics for Dummies; so, I'm sub-dummy.

 

Assuming I can purchase the correct switch without knowing what it is (last time I tried, I ended up with the wrong ones), I think I know that I attach a wire from the tie bar to the switch.  Fine, I understand that.  Probably too cack-handed to make it work properly, but I understand that.

 

But where do all the wires go?

 

EDIT: Is this the chap?

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2021 by Edwardian

[nick_bastable]

3 hours ago, Edwardian said:

 

This arrived, and the ends do, indeed, match that of the suspected prototype.

 

I am very pleased with this, and will now have a SE&CR loco coal wagon. Hurrah!

 

 

Onto other matters, track laying has re-commenced ion the test track.

 

I found a second hand turnout that was ideal for forming the loop.  It seems to function perfectly well mechanically. 

 

Please can someone explain to me how to wire it?

 

(you know I have no grasp of the theory, so a 'what goes where' explanation would be most appreciated)

 

that looks very compliantly built  beware as it may be  OOf or what ever its called

 

Nick B