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Possible Powercab Damage?


Lochinvar

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Today,I made a stupid mistake in connecting up my layout which has resulted in a loss of all track power. I fear that I may have damaged my NCE Powercab and/or the associated Auto-SW connecting it to my programming track.

 

Unaccountably,I fed the 2 wires from my separate points transformer (16.5V) to the (output) connector to the programming track,and switched on at the mains. The Powercab was connected to the panel,with the red power light showing. It wasn't until the points failed to "throw" that I realised the error. The power was switched off,and the wires from the points transformer inserted in the correct (points) connector. Switching back on again, the points worked perfectly,but there was no light on the Powercab panel. The layout was as dead as the proverbial dodo.

 

As the programming track connections go first to the Auto-SW,before going on to the Power Panel,is it reasonable to assume that Auto-SW  (being the first in line) has been damaged...or is it likely that the Powercab has been damaged too?

 

Is anyone able to suggest how I might go about establishing where the fault lies and what (short of replacing the Auto-SW.....and  Powercab) I can do to restore power? Are any of the components replaceable?

 

Yours,in trepidation

 

DR

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Test it by ( a ) removing the Smart switch , and ( b ) trying a different power supply brick to the PowerCab.    If neither of those solves the issue, the PowerCab is damaged, which is quite likely given what happened. 

 

In terms of repair, talk to the retailer who sold it to you, they may have a local repair option.   Otherwise, its back to the maker in the US, and it's questionable whether you'd find it less hassle to buy a replacement than the costs of transatlantic postage, repairs, dealing with customs on return, etc... 

 

- Nigel

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I recently knackered my Powercab by burning out some circuitry with too much ampage.

I shopped around and sourced a replacement from Coastal DCC.

However, a week after its replacement, I was in LENDONS model shop in Fidlas road, cardiff . They are also a computer repairs specialist.

They offer a free inspection and no fix no fee service.

( they have previously fixed Dynamis sets for a friend.)

 

Their details are on line.

Paul

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Thanks,both,for taking an interest.  I've now altered the wiring to eliminate the Auto-SW but the LED on the panel remains unlit. Does that perhaps point to the panel itself having been damaged?  Any further ideas as to how to I might extricate myself from this blunder would be much appreciated here.

 

DR

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Hi

Unfortunately the red LED only lights when both the Power Supply is providing power and the PowerCab is connected and working, so either or both could have a fault?

 

Firstly a simple test... Ensure you're using the flat cable and it is plugged into the panel into the left hand socket when the red LED is at the bottom.

Assuming the panels connections are correct, do you have a multimeter?

If so, unplug the power supply lead at the rear of the panel and set the meter to 20v DC range or a higher DC voltage and test between the moulded plugs inner tube and outer barrel to see if you're receiving 12 volts DC (or there about) after turning it on at the mains.  The inner tube is positive to the outer barrels negative.  If no voltage is noted the power supply overload trip has activate.  Some are self resetting while others are terminal and cannot be reset.  But if no voltage or very low DC volts are found then this is the causes and the power supply needs replacing.  If you don't have a multimeter use a 12volt small wattage lamp and a couple of test wires to see if the lamp lights when the power supply is plugged in and turned on at the mains with the lamp connected to the moulded plugs inner tube and the other wire on the outer barrel.  A GoW or Grain of Rice bulb or even a cars 4 or 5 watt lamp will do for testing.

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Obliged to you Brian. Today I acquired a modest digital multimeter (ought to have one anyway,you may say) and applied it as you described. The reading on the lead was negative < 1V,so the power supply would appear to be "goosed". I've ordered a replacement,and will take it from there.

 

I'm fearful of even asking this supplementary, but is it possible that the damage may have extended to any decoder-fitted locos that were on the layout at the time???

 

DR

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Depends on the decoders, some are better protected than others. If you have cheap decoders there is an increased risk that they may be blown, or simply lost their programming. When you get a working controller again I suggest you try each in turn. If they fail to work, perform a factory reset and try again.

 

Dave

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Obliged to you Brian. Today I acquired a modest digital multimeter (ought to have one anyway,you may say) and applied it as you described. The reading on the lead was negative < 1V,so the power supply would appear to be "goosed". I've ordered a replacement,and will take it from there.

 

I'm fearful of even asking this supplementary, but is it possible that the damage may have extended to any decoder-fitted locos that were on the layout at the time???

 

DR

Hi

When your new 12 volt (or up to 15volt maximum) and to a maximum of ideally 2.0Amp DC regulated power supply arrives.  Before powering up everything I personally would remove the two wires that go off the track or DCC bus pair.  

Plug the new power supply into the rear of the panel and then and only then turn on the mains to see if the PowerCab itself powers back up into life.

 

If it does then power down at the mains and reconnect the DCC track wires.

If it still fails to come back to life unfortunately the PowerCab will need repairing.

 

Lets hope the old power supply took the short and failed and the PowerCab remains working OK.

 

Good luck

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Phew,phew and phew again. A replacement power source obtained from DCC Coastal has done the trick,with a re-assuringly illuminated LED now visible at the panel. (Incidentally,the new "Power Max" transformer operates at 15V/2.0A,rather than the 12V (?)/1.5A item supplied with the original kit).

 

All the locos. have been test-run,and operate normally. That just leaves the AutoSW to the programming track to be tested before I can say absolutely that I've emerged much better than perhaps deserved from this episode. The error was partly down to having identical-looking "Points Power" and "Prog. Track" connectors placed quite close to each other on the edge of the layout board. Clearly,simply annotating them in that way was'nt enough. The style of one of the connectors needs to be changed so that it's physically impossible to repeat the error.

 

I've been fortunate...and that good fortune includes having access to knowledgeable and helpful RMWebbers. I'm grateful to them for their assistance.

 

DR

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So pleased it was resolved with replacing the power supply.

 

The new power supply will be better that the original 12 volt one as it will provided more volts to the rails. Giving a better top speed and increased current to track.

 

Anyway, great news that you're back in business.

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