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Why? Bachmann Class 45 (45114) Livery!


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Thanks for the information regarding the nose seam.

Interestingly (or probably not in the scheme of things  :D), the photo of the loco at Dore in the links above  shows the seam to be partially filled in for some sections. Possibly a trick of the light - it was after all sunny in Sheffield, or perhaps the result of overzealous application of the yellow paint? Either way, it looks like what my model would probably look like if I had a go at it.

Definitely a job for a 'brave day'.

Thanks again 

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I have made the classic mistake of buying something then finding a YouTube review of it afterwards. 

I found one on the Bachmann model 45 in question and, although the review was very complimentary, it did casually drop the bomb that the 'NEM' pocket is not NEM-compliant in height?...Nothing new from Bachmann there then, but it looks like the pocket is so far off, it uses a specially designed, kinked tension lock coupling?

I am yet to receive the loco and see for myself, but the major 'playability' feature on my layout is the use of Kadee delayed-action couplings to shunt stock around the sidings. 

I am already, in my head, planning some butchery and grafting between an NEM tension-lock tail and a Kadee coupler, but I also have the faint hope that the design has changed since the review,  which IIRC was at least 6 years old.

EDIT- just looked again and the review is 6 MONTHS old... oh dear.  However, the loco itself could have been a few years old as it was bought in a model fair .

FURTHER EDIT: A bit of research reveals that the loco was produced by Bachmann between 2003-2007. I feel some razor saw action coming on.

Anybody else managed to fit working Kadees to this particular loco?

Thanks again. 

Edited by 9C85
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On 21/10/2020 at 07:59, rob D2 said:

Certainly had a white roof in 1979 but no stripes,

was standard rail blue in 1980,

 

not my photo, harvested from Flickr 

B5D7F455-6D46-4936-B13C-9602EF839556.png

One side of my model looks like this now. I decided to experiment on the 'non-viewed side'. I had a go with T-Cut on the upper thin line but didn't have much luck. I then remembered that I got the numbers off my 47 by using a cocktail stick to scrape them off.

I got quite a bit of the upper line off but neither T-Cut nor cocktail stick would touch the bottom line. 

I decided to have a go with the Railmatch Rail Blue straight from the jar with a detailing brush. I did a first pass yesterday and it left a greeny- blue line on the lower band. The upper band was less noticeable. I have just done a second pass using the same method and the blue is a better match, but still with a 'tinge of green' as they say on cricket pitch reports. I reckon one more pass will suffice but I am conscious of the brush strokes, on the lower band especially .

20201101_133759.jpg.bd1a082fa1052abd825584fb4ec89292.jpg

I got some 1500 grit wet and dry paper  (for laserglazing my 47) and I wondered about giving the band a very light sanding before applying the final coat?

I have already decided that, for the viewed side, I am going to mask off everything but the stripes and spray paint the blue on. Although I am undecided between rattle can or airbrush.  I should do the roof at the same time but that would involve removing the bodyshell, which is something I am still not comfortable with.

Are Bachmann Peak bodyshells easy to remove and refit?

Thanks again. 

 

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I've just checked mine and there are just two screws to remove, inset and diagonally opposite each other near the centre battery boxes (don't touch those either side of the bogies) - the lack of lighting really simplifies things! Try to find a screwdriver which fits securely into the crosshead screws to minimise slippage, as too much of that can damage the screws and make life really difficult (a set of five small crosshead screwdrivers is a worthwhile investment and not expensive). Use just enough force to loosen and unscrew slowly anti-clockwise. When refitting the screws turn gently anti-clockwise a turn or two until you feel the screw find the thread (there will be a noticeable 'click') then turn clockwise to screw in - this should avoid these self-tappers trying to cut a new thread and possibly stripping the mounting posts in the body. For the same reason do not overtighten - if the body and chassis no longer move when tugged apart they're tight enough.

 

While you have the body off, check the security of the glazing, including the headcode panels - these early Peaks (and other Bachmann products of their time) are notorious for shedding windows, although it's a useful 'feature' when repainting and/or varnishing - if you want to go that far gently press in all of the glazing and store for re-attachment later. I'd be surprised if they don't all come out quite easily!

 

Bachmann's earlier efforts at BR Blue were a touch dark, I have a Class 42 Warship which has ended up with a later D827 body on an earlier D870 underframe and they clearly don't match. I've had similar 'fun' mixing old and new blue/grey coaching stock, you'd think they'd match from the same manufacturer....... Back to your Peak, I have found this kind of patch-painting to be quite frustrating and mixing paints a matter of trial and error; also just when you think you've nailed it the new paint can appear to change shade slightly as it dries, however this can be a trick of the light on the different surface finishes and disappears with a unifying coat of varnish.

 

Hope this helps!

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Thanks Neil. 

My loco has been fitted with cab lighting and the headcode panel lights up in the forward direction  (no tail marker lights though).

I have had the overtightened screw issue with my 47 and ended up buying a new set of screws. 

I know I should have waited a day for the second application to dry but I wasn't happy with the brush strokes on the lower stripes.  I went at it with the 1500 wet and dry and lifted most of the paint off, so now it looks like a DRS Peak :D

I did look on eBay for a replacement body earlier and the only one that came up was... 45 114 with a white roof :o

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I did have a go at getting the bodyshell off, and it was just two screws holding it on. Unfortunately, as I mentioned previously, the loco is retro fitted with illuminated headcode and cab lighting, and I didn't want to disconnect anything so I quickly put the bodyshell back on.

I really wasn't happy with my hand-applied blue on the lower stripe, so I had another go with the 1500 grit wet and dry paper, this time moistened slightly.  To my surprise and delight, once I had removed my paint it started to lift off the stripe also.  I kept going and removed the lower stripe, as shown in the photo. The photo looks brutal but, to the eye, the lighter patches (where I probably overdid the sanding) are not too bad and should cover up with some judicious weathering. 

I also managed to accidentally remove the data panel but at least the number survived. I have some data panels from Traintech transfers in any case.

Now to try the same thing on the 'viewing' side. Fingers crossed. 

 

20201102_175447.jpg.55d034e149f403042d9383f6fe94bb38.jpg

 

Edited by 9C85
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20201102_184712(0).jpg.12cac972fd57a3b42fd4f3c7125514d2.jpg

 

The viewing side after removal of the lower body stripe with 1500 wet and dry . I found it better to use the paper quite wet and use light strokes. Once again, the photo shows all the blemishes, but it really looks OK to my eye and nothing the weathering won't sort.

Ironically, the upper stripe put up such a good fight against the sanding that I reverted back to the detail brush and Railmatch Rail Blue out of the jar. The photo shows it after one pass - I will do another tomorrow. 

I now have to think about the roof.  As discussed above, I can't really take the bodyshell off but I am conscious of the fan grille letting in paint. It is quite a wide mesh.

I will clean the roof with Cif applied via a toothbrush/ cotton buds.

I think I will mask off the fan grille and everything else bar the roof, then give it a couple of coats of blue  from a rattle can. I can touch in the fan grille after the spraying has dried. Again, this will be heavily weathered so colour matching isn't that much of an issue.

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57 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

Looks very light ...is it the light or is that the faded version of railmatch ?

It's the same can that I used for the GUVs so I am hoping it's the light. This was taken in my house whereas all my other photos have been in the garage.   I may give it a light airbrush with Roof Dirt to try blending it in if it's a way off. 

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20201109_205146.jpg

 

20201109_205229.jpg.2ba1a39780596da079682d1fc54d3b06.jpg

 

Second coat appliedvand masking tape removed. As expected, not a perfect colour match, but good enough for rule 1 to apply for me. I have still to do the fan grille and a bit of touching up on the upper bands but I reckon I can get away with some black wash on the roof panel seams and some weathering powders to dirty it up, so no airbrush required. 

These photos were taken in the shed, which has much brighter lighting than the garage or the dining room where previous photos were taken. 

I was desperate to bring the model indoors to get it drying quicker, but it started raining as soon as I had finished with the rattle can.  I then remembered that I had a Corona lager cool box in the shed. I transferred the loco into the house like it was a replacement heart :D

It is now in the spare bedroom and its condition is 'comfortable'.

 

Edited by 9C85
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20201110_180551.jpg.7f98686ce8c14a02027a744d1b56a916.jpg

 

Back on the layout for a quick photo before returning to the 'drying room', as I now call the spare bedroom. 

I did the fan grille and the top band again with a detail brush. I will leave it a couple more days to dry, then Dulcote it before trying to hide the patchy bits with weathering powders. I couldn't resist giving it a  little trundle up and down the sidings. I am a lot happier now that it's in an 'ordinary' blue livery, as that fits in with the layout. I am pleased with how it's going as there were a few things I have tried for the first time on this mini project. 

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On 01/11/2020 at 16:51, Neil Phillips said:

Check the security of the glazing, including the headcode panels - these early Peaks (and other Bachmann products of their time) are notorious for shedding windows, although it's a useful 'feature' when repainting and/or varnishing 

20201111_183402.jpg.5ee2b66609c630d1552ec858a58dd23e.jpg

 

I bought some Humbrol Maskol and was going to try it on the Peak before I gave it a couple of coats of Dulcote.  Then I read up on Maskol and found that it can clog up brushes. One post mentioned using Blu-tak to mask windows and I thought that would be within my skill set.

I did the other end of the loco first with no problems, but on the cab in the picture, the front glazing fell in with just the slightest pressure.

I have done the first coat of Dulcote with the loco in the condition shown. I am just about to apply the second.

I will remove the bodyshell and try to refit the glazing prior to reassembly and weathering. Hopefully I won't disturb the lighting when reglazing.

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One last photo and I will stop hijacking this thread. This is how it looks now after weathering and quite a few photo effects applied from my phone camera. 

Whilst putting the glazing back in, the headcodes fell out. Twice. Once after I had put it back together.

One headcode panel got its end snapped off when I was trying to refit it.

I have now promised myself that I will never again dismantle a loco unless it is absolutely necessary. 

I will quite happily pay someone to fit DCC, DCC sound etc.

At least all my current locos are weathered now, so I can relax and enjoy the layout for a while. 

 

20201112_203416.jpg

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"I have now promised myself that I will never again dismantle a loco unless it is absolutely necessary".

 

Might I suggest you look at this as having been a learning experience instead. You are now wiser, you have seen how these things go together, and what some of the pitfalls are. You've also managed to sort them out, and come through at the other end with something you're pleased with - which is different and unique to you.

 

If you can do this there really isn't any need to pay for the services you list, except perhaps in very ununsual circumstances. By doing so not only will it cost you money that could otherwise be spent on trains, fast cars, faster women, whatever - but also you will have denied yourself the satisfaction of achieving something. Anyone can open a box and plonk something on a piece of track.

 

Just a thought.

 

John.

Edited by John Tomlinson
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25 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

although I can see his point with some manufacturers maki g it like Indiana jones And the quest for the holy grail to get into their locos with indifferent / badly / couldn’t care less designed access 

Rob, yes I quite agree. Some of the steam locos especially are virtually impossible to get into without breaking some detail part. And yes, it's a good thing there isn't a swear box in my modelling room otherwise I wouldn't have any money! Nonetheless, I do think that there is a lot of satisfaction to be gained in our hobby from having a go, and being able to say at the end "I did that". It's also the only way to learn, one's skills can only get better with practice and experience.

 

John.

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On 13/11/2020 at 10:51, John Tomlinson said:

"I have now promised myself that I will never again dismantle a loco unless it is absolutely necessary".

 

Might I suggest you look at this as having been a learning experience instead. You are now wiser, you have seen how these things go together, and what some of the pitfalls are. You've also managed to sort them out, and come through at the other end with something you're pleased with - which is different and unique to you.

 

If you can do this there really isn't any need to pay for the services you list, except perhaps in very ununsual circumstances. By doing so not only will it cost you money that could otherwise be spent on trains, fast cars, faster women, whatever - but also you will have denied yourself the satisfaction of achieving something. Anyone can open a box and plonk something on a piece of track.

 

Just a thought.

 

John.

 

Never make promises you can't keep. 

 

20201114_144033.jpg.bf22c5a773c0081b2fca01e77c6ce083.jpg

 

The dislodged, slightly set-back cab front glazing was bugging me. This end of the loco looked a bit like the original Mainline peak. I was learning to live with it, but then I noticed that the headcode lights were bulging out like footballs.

I took the bodyshell off and discarded one of the screws which was getting stubborn  (I have a couple of spares).

 Both headcode panels came out again but that made it easier to refit the glazing with Glue and Glaze. 

I then fettled the headcode opening so will some fine files. On refitting the bodyshell, both panels more or less refitted themselves. They are delicately poised and I am scared to touch them in case they dislodge. 

I had an idea to try and replicate the nose seam by applying two strips of masking tape, with the narrowest possible gap between them, and going over the gap with Tamiya 'Soot' weathering powder.

I got the lower strip of tape on and then saw the pencil I had used to 'colour in' the domino headcode on the 47. Using the tape as an edge, I drew the line as best I could, going over it a few times. Looking at photos of the real thing, the actual  seam is nowhere near as deep as it is on the 'correct' Bachmann locos, so I think I am happy with the outcome. 

I can always thicken it up or rub it out if I change my mind.

 For now, I am a lot happier with the look of it. 

Edited by 9C85
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