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GWR 1927 Non-corridor bow end stock


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  • 2 weeks later...

Just ordered the lettering from Railtec :danced: so once that arrives I've no excuse not to get on with these.

Must get my determination hat sorted so I can persevere with all that lettering and all those grab handles.

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  • 1 month later...

Holiday over and back to the workbench, in between gardening and family stuff.

 

So the transfers are on and everything varnished with Vallejo satin varnish. Not used this before and I need to build up more coats I think.

 

Anyway here is the first, one of the composites, this has all HMRS transfers as I had done it before I realised I needed more class designations.

 

post-9629-0-62069100-1535984549_thumb.jpg

 

Grab and door handles are the ex Comet now Wizard ones. 

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  • 1 month later...

So after a bit of a pause for breath and sanity I have completed all the grab handles and given the coaches another coat of satin varnish. Not much to see really so no pictures.

 

However I know that these were built with oval rather than round buffers. I'm not aware of any sprung GWR oval head buffers so bought MJT round ones (after all that's the style Hornby use on their Colletts). Now I come to fit them it bugs me a bit so i had a go at filing one buffer to approxiametly the correct shape. It took about half an hour and I have four coaches worth to do and to try to keep consitent.

 

Here's the resullt alongside an unmodified one. (Note: the underframe is upside down here)

 

post-9629-0-86431500-1539805072_thumb.jpg

 

 

So the question is, is it worth continuing?

 

Provided I can get them reasonably consistent I think it is BUT I might just do the ones on the Brake ends and leave the round heads on the ones between carriages in the rake.

Oh and I'm planning to stop them rotating by gluing little rectangular washers (blocks of plasticard ) onto the ends of the shafts.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well I bit the bullet and did all the buffers. Not sure how well they will stay aligned, I have in mind to modify them by attaching a piece of spring wire across between the buffer tails, rather as described by Jenkinson.

 

Next job was to sort out some bars for the van end windows.

 

I'd left the masking tape over them from when I painted the ends so could use that as a template. 

post-9629-0-57985100-1542109982_thumb.jpg

 

10 thou plasticard window surrounds and some fine plastic rod mean I can line the bars up over a decent length and then cut them up once set.

post-9629-0-13499700-1542109966_thumb.jpg

 

I assume these bars were black, unless anyone knows different? (As built condition of course).

 

These are a bit thick really but hopefully won't look too bad. Not sure I can face trying to do them in wire as I'd have to do each one separately.

I might see if I can stretch some sprue to get a finer bar instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Miss P. The bars look black in the interior photos in the Russel volumes but of course that’s black and white and with the bright outdoor world behind them.

 

The Slater’s rod sounds ideal but I’ll give stretched spruce a try as I have bits to hand.

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I haven't measured any recently, but it's worth checking wire. 

I would think telephone wire was about right, and is easy to 

straighten out, also easy to fix using superglue (but be careful

of the glazing).

 

I did consider wire but didn't see how I could put it across all four openings to make them consistent and still manage to cut them apart afterwards.

 

Here's the stretched sprue version. Subsequently sprayed with grey primer and satin black top coat. These cut through quite successfully with only a couple coming off completely. These were easy enough to glue back.

 

post-9629-0-89181400-1542380801_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

A Happy New Year to all RMWebbers.

 

Santa kindly brought me lighting units for the D-set carriages. These are layouts 4 U reed switch operated, battery powered LED strips.

 

Having not originally planned to fit these I had to come up with a way to hide the battery holder but still leave the roof removable. Luckily I had only put in partitions that reach the top of the sides leaving plenty of space for the lights and wires. The reed switch fits into a 1st class compartment so no problem there.

 

I decided the easiest way to hide the battery was to build a socket for it in the end seats so that it sits partly in the bow end.

 

Here is the coach I have completed and the modified seating unit for the second composite.

 

post-9629-0-95850600-1546343005_thumb.jpg

 

The brake thirds will have the battery holder hidden in the luggage van. I assume the van would have less lighting (?). 

 

I also got some 3v red LEDs and 1mm fibre optic which I'm going to try to use to light the tail lamp on the van. This will have to be detachable from the roof lighting so I'll probably have to arrange some connections to the roof strips.

 

Because the layout is DC and end to end I'll have to put lamps on both vans but I can live with that compromise rather than trying to arrange pick ups and directional switching of the lamps.

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A Happy New Year to all RMWebbers.

 

Santa kindly brought me lighting units for the D-set carriages. These are layouts 4 U reed switch operated, battery powered LED strips.

 

Having not originally planned to fit these I had to come up with a way to hide the battery holder but still leave the roof removable. Luckily I had only put in partitions that reach the top of the sides leaving plenty of space for the lights and wires. The reed switch fits into a 1st class compartment so no problem there.

 

I decided the easiest way to hide the battery was to build a socket for it in the end seats so that it sits partly in the bow end.

 

Here is the coach I have completed and the modified seating unit for the second composite.

 

attachicon.gifDset comp lights.jpg

 

The brake thirds will have the battery holder hidden in the luggage van. I assume the van would have less lighting (?). 

 

I also got some 3v red LEDs and 1mm fibre optic which I'm going to try to use to light the tail lamp on the van. This will have to be detachable from the roof lighting so I'll probably have to arrange some connections to the roof strips.

 

Because the layout is DC and end to end I'll have to put lamps on both vans but I can live with that compromise rather than trying to arrange pick ups and directional switching of the lamps.

Darwinian,

if you are going to the trouble of fibre optics....wouldn't it be worth the extra step of diodes to have them work bidirectionally as well?

 

Khris

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  • RMweb Gold

Blast, Hornby have announced these for later this year. Better get them finished quick!

Perhaps if you start something else they'll announce that too, maybe I should draw up a list for you.

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Lost my mojo for this project and got sidetracked onto other things, then my Hornby Collett Bow ender arrived and I realised that the underframe was the same so they'll probably make some at some point (?). So better get these built before that happens!

 

More work completed on the underframe.

 

attachicon.gifD98 broadside s.jpg

 

And end detailing begun

 

attachicon.gifD98 van end 2s.jpg

 

A comparison with the ex-Airfix (now Hornby) B-set brake compo.

 

attachicon.gifD98 and B set s.jpg

 

The slightly shallow solebar isn't that noticeable and will be even less so once the step board has been added.

 

Since taking these I have added the buffer beams and the brake rodding. However I put on the brake rodding as for a Composite but it has to be different as both vacuum cylinders are on the same side of the V-hangers so I'll have to correct it.

Very prescient first sentence!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Right lets try the new forum version.

I have just about finished the building of the non-corridor set. Some final tweaks to be made and passengers to fit plus weathering but I think I just beat Hornby to it!

Here are a couple of individual carriages.

631995636_CompositeComplete.jpg.c31a68a9c01bb73d5372aa5eeca9083b.jpg1555017063_Van3rdcomplete.jpg.d9c008fa2debef771a8274bdd6195633.jpg

And an overview of the set.

2065230760_D-setcomplete.jpg.f1794902da578a2c6a5605b6fa7f6040.jpg

 

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  • Craftsmanship/clever 6
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Finally I got the tail lights to work by running fibre optic cable from a "funky foam" box over one of the roof light strips - down through the van end. The lamp lens is Micro crystal clear tinted with red acrylic paint with a touch of black to darken it. To prevent light leakage around the roof-end joint I fitted a thin strip of the funky foam which squashes into the gap nicely hiding the rather "iffy" fit of the ends!

The end of the fibre optic fits into a slit in the foam box as the roof is pressed on.

1307389649_D98completelights.jpg.ab89a6163359ccdeabbca2df6f57bb82.jpg

 

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  • Craftsmanship/clever 13
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There are less of the LEDs on the strip in the van end. Also one is boxed off to act as the light for the rear lamp fibre optic.  I vaguely recall a guard turning on the van lights so we could get our luggage. However that would have been 1950s at the earliest so may not be relevant.

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