Jump to content
 

Where to get 3-link couplings?


Recommended Posts

After much deliberation and trying several autocouplings I have decided to use 3 links on my rolling stock. What is the best source of links? I don't need hooks, I have lots. Most of the kits I've built recently have come with etched hooks and I have a pile of Brassmasters etched hooks as well. So, where to get links?

Link to post
Share on other sites

After much deliberation and trying several autocouplings I have decided to use 3 links on my rolling stock. What is the best source of links? I don't need hooks, I have lots. Most of the kits I've built recently have come with etched hooks and I have a pile of Brassmasters etched hooks as well. So, where to get links?

In the past, I've had Smiths links, both plain and Instanter, via Mainly Trains- you could try contacting Smiths direct.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I too use smiths, but it might be worth using the hooks as well, instead of scale ones. The smiths hooks are actually oversized, making it easier to hook the links over them. Also, try using ambis centre links for instantiers with smiths links. The links and hooks can be bought separately and look better than the smiths instantiers, which are just shaped wire loops.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I too use smiths, but it might be worth using the hooks as well, instead of scale ones. The smiths hooks are actually oversized, making it easier to hook the links over them. Also, try using ambis centre links for instantiers with smiths links. The links and hooks can be bought separately and look better than the smiths instantiers, which are just shaped wire loops.

Smiths must have changed at some point; all the Instanters I've bought have etched brass middle links.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had come across Smiths couplings but they seemed a little on the pricey side of things, especially with international shipping added on.

Do anyone have prototype dimensions? I may have a go at rolling my own...

You will need to have very good eyesight and hand to eye coordination if you make them to dead scale dimensions.

Not to mention very large radius curves and no lateral movement in any wheel bearings.

That is why people suggest Smiths. The kit version is much cheaper than the assembled version.

Bernard

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I used Smiths for many years, bought in kit form. Some of the early Instanter links were over-etched to the point where the Instanter link was very, very thin and easily deformed. More recent packs have been consistently much  better. The hooks are overscale and the links are slightly over-long, but those are useful traits when operating under exhibition conditions!

 

More recently, I've switched to using Ambis etched hooks and Instanter links, allied to Smiths links - they are closer to scale, but as easy to use as the Smiths hooks/Instanters (and work out cheaper). The Ambis hooks don't need such a large slot in the headstock either, useful on some of the more fragile plastic kits! I chemically blacken the hooks and Instanters while still on the etch, then make up a whole bunch in one sitting, takes about a minute per coupling.

 

I use a properly shaped coupling pole which definitely makes a difference (there was a piece in MRJ some years ago detailing how to make one) and I work in EM with (mostly) rigid buffers.

 

I have operated layouts which used a soft-iron bottom link and a magnetic coupling pole, but really didn't get on with that method, prefering a pole with a hook.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This isn't very helpful as it relates to currently unobtainable items but I found the best combination was Mainly Trains or Slaters hooks and the coupling chain that used to be sold at a very cheap price by the EM Gauge Society. In the absence of the latter (has everyone in the EMGS gone over to AJ couplings ?), I've gone back to Smiths links, expensive as they are.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I also prefer to use 3 link, instanter and screw link couplings on my stock but also use the Dingham auto-coupling which is compatible with the hook in the buffer beam couplings.  The latter are reasonably priced and the etch comes with plates to cover the drilled hole in the buffer beam and lots of hooks that are useful to fit to locos.  For coaching stock, I intend to use the Dingham coupler on the end coaches and then use Bill Bedford etched screw links that are fixed to the underside of one coach and have a post at the other end to hook under the buffer beam of the next coach.  I had thought about using screw links between coaches but it is just too fiddly and time-consuming to try and couple up.

 

I have decided to also model in N gauge and don't want to use the Rapido coupling that is fitted to N gauge stock but what are the alternatives?  I used to model in N gauge until I sold everything about 20 years ago and I had trialled DG and Sprat & Winkle couplings for shunting but now I am wondering if there is a N gauge version of 3 link available commercially that I could fit to wagons and the end of coaches that wouldn't be shunted or marshalled?  I have some other questions regarding track etc but I start a new thread on that.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

I made* my links by winding 0.5 mm diameter bare copper wire around two pieces of 2mm rod (rolling stock axles will do). The copper oxidises to a nice rust colour in time. The result is slightly overscale - the internal length should be 10" - but this helps with coupling and negotiation of tight curves.

 

* I still have lots to do, but the EM layout to run them on is on hold........

 

I don't think my eyesight would be up to N gauge 3 links! They're fiddly enough in 4mm...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I went on this journey a few years ago. I ended up making my own by winding N/S wire round a former and slitting the resulting coil into lots of links. Discard the duffers. Form up and metal black the rest. Sounds like a right faff, but once you've made the former and had some practice you can make hoards of links really quickly. The other thing is that you can make then links to the exact size you want. I  make mine slightly over scale. They're a little easier to couple and give bit more slack for tight curves when there's no buffer springing. Cost? Almost nothing apart from some time and effort.

 

Exactoscale (now C&L?) used to do some links and hooks, but they are true scale and just too unforgiving for me.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have decided to also model in N gauge and don't want to use the Rapido coupling that is fitted to N gauge stock but what are the alternatives?  I used to model in N gauge until I sold everything about 20 years ago and I had trialled DG and Sprat & Winkle couplings for shunting but now I am wondering if there is a N gauge version of 3 link available commercially that I could fit to wagons and the end of coaches that wouldn't be shunted or marshalled?  I have some other questions regarding track etc but I start a new thread on that.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

For 2mm there is this ingenious-looking screw coupling -

 http://www.raw-nette.de/h_mfk1.htm

 

-I was going to try it for 3mm, but will probably stick with 4mm and 3-links now.

Link to post
Share on other sites

For 2mm there is this ingenious-looking screw coupling -

 http://www.raw-nette.de/h_mfk1.htm

 

-I was going to try it for 3mm, but will probably stick with 4mm and 3-links now.

 

That's awesome! I've been mulling over in my head how I could make an automatic coupler that actually looked realistic, not only have I been beaten to it but in 2mm scale to boot! 

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's awesome! I've been mulling over in my head how I could make an automatic coupler that actually looked realistic, not only have I been beaten to it but in 2mm scale to boot! 

I wonder if a similar arrangement might work in 4mm with a steel bottom link and some rare earth/neodymium magnets?  Never thought of waving a magnetic 'wand' from above before!  If it does then also no need to mess about trying to fit Sprat and Winkle or Dingham couplers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wonder if a similar arrangement might work in 4mm with a steel bottom link and some rare earth/neodymium magnets?  Never thought of waving a magnetic 'wand' from above before!  If it does then also no need to mess about trying to fit Sprat and Winkle or Dingham couplers.

 

 

 Don't you need an electro magnet so that you can drop the link?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...