micklner Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Re The Jubilee . Does this have etched nickel silver lines on the body sides hence the masking ? Much easier to prime the body , then scrape the lines back to bare metal , then paint the top colour, the scrape the lines again, as the line is now not primed, the paint will peel off the lines. You can do the same to the raised LNER and numbers. Why are you , I presume glazing the coach prior to painting ? Much easier again to paint the roof, mask that and then paint body. Part of my Silver Jubilee set ,the lining on mine is transfers. 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) Hallo Mick, Thanks for stopping by. Your Jubilee set looks very nice indeed. With regards to the cant rails being Nickel Silver - mine aren't. However, if they were, I'd most likely still paint them, as getting the cant rails to tie in with the lining would be problematic. If I was to leave them as bare metal, I would still mask them anyway, as scraping paint is too frought with danger for my liking - personal preferance of course. Let me explain my way of working which might reveal the madness behind the method. Prime the whole body and interior with Acid 8 Etch Primer Paint the insides of the coach. In this case, light green, teak or light blue. I do this first, as there is likely to be paint bleed from inside the coach to the exterior. By doing the outside later I am assured of a near flawless as possible exterior. Mask interior windows to protect the insides from overspray. I also attach the coach floors temporarily at this point to further prevent paint ingress. Spray on the chrome paint Spray a light protective coat of semi gloss varnish to protect the chrome Mask the chrome (the most time consuming bit) Spray the main body colour. Mask body sides only Spray the valances, and mask Spray the roof. No need to mask the ends as i just angle the coach whilst spraying Drybrush the raised detail with silver Paint other details. This way I can achieve a consistent finish, as I hope the following image of Coronation shows, all completed using the above method: Edited June 10, 2020 by grob1234 12 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 1 hour ago, grob1234 said: Hallo Mick, Thanks for stopping by. Your Jubilee set looks very nice indeed. With regards to the cant rails being Nickel Silver - mine aren't. However, if they were, I'd most likely still paint them, as getting the cant rails to tie in with the lining would be problematic. If I was to leave them as bare metal, I would still mask them anyway, as scraping paint is too frought with danger for my liking - personal preferance of course. Let me explain my way of working which might reveal the madness behind the method. Prime the whole body and interior with Acid 8 Etch Primer Paint the insides of the coach. In this case, light green, teak or light blue. I do this first, as there is likely to be paint bleed from inside the coach to the exterior. By doing the outside later I am assured of a near flawless as possible exterior. Mask interior windows to protect the insides from overspray. I also attach the coach floors temporarily at this point to further prevent paint ingress. Spray on the chrome paint Spray a light protective coat of semi gloss varnish to protect the chrome Mask the chrome (the most time consuming bit) Spray the main body colour. Mask body sides only Spray the valances, and mask Spray the roof. No need to mask the ends as i just angle the coach whilst spraying Drybrush the raised detail with silver Paint other details. This way I can achieve a consistent finish, as I hope the following image of Coronation shows, all completed using the above method: Seriously !! how long do you take per coach!! To stop the paint getting into the interior simply mask inside the windows, if needed add masking tape along the bottom edge as well, ,much easier to simply repaint any overspray after the outside is painted . Why would the paint bleed from the interior out, I can see no reason why it would ?. Being realistic you can hardly see inside any coach once finished anyway. I had presumed the kit was Nickel Silver, hence I now presume Brass, so the idea was useless on this occasion anyway . Try it on scrap body with raised detail you maybe surprised how easily the paint comes away cleanly. Fox Transfers do the Jubilee and Coronation lettering and numbers decals. Used on my model. Sorry to be slightly critical but you would get better straight lines with decals , yours as shown are not perfect . You then would only need to mask the Coronation set for the two colours and the roof if painted first and on the Jubilee just the roof again paint that first . Good luck !!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Cheers Mick. Thing is, I enjoy the process, and as it's taken me about 4 years to get to this point, time really isn't a factor to me. However, doing a job that is to my personal satisfaction is very important. Getting decals to align properly with rased detail is difficult, and not my chosen approach. However, you have demonstrated what works for you which is great. Let's see how they turn out. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I agree re raised detail in this case. I personally would have removed them before painting, seems a daft idea to me , as you said virtually impossible to paint well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post grob1234 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 21, 2020 Well, I suppose there comes a time when any (half) self respecting LNER modeller has to be able to 'Teak' and line. First of all Teak. Now I know the Diag120 isn't to everyones liking, however for my own money, I think it's a pretty little van that will look appropriate on any local service behind an old D2 for example. It's my fist proper go at applying the teak finish. I was aiming to get a finish similar to some of the colour shots on Steve Banks site: https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/133-teak-coaches Now I like the look of the darker more wizened versions, so I used a PP base coat and then Raw Umber over the top. It awaits clear varnish which should homogenise things a little more. I understand the kit is not quite correct, a mix of Diag170 and Diag 120 perhaps? But it looks LNERy to me, and as I say will still look the part in a 1930's setting. Errors aside, a really lovely kit, I jut have to add decals and glazing after varnishing. The next element that requires some attention is lining. A black art some say, and to be honest I don't think AB, LG or IR need to worry themselves too much just yet. I basically tried to copy the techniques of Rathbone. One thing I find amazing is how forgiving the base coat is when you inevitably mess up. A very lightly dampened small brush with white spirit and small errors can be instantly dressed back. Larger errors after about an hour simply disintegrate. At this stage I'm a better error corrector than I am lining master, but hey ho! Oddly, I find the haff compasses easier or should I say more forgiving to line with than the haff pen. On balance, the pen does give finer lines, but I am less consistent with it. Perhaps the shape of the nib on the compass better suits me? I don't know but what I am sure of is that more practise is required. Clearly there are still touch ups to do on the C1 tender, as well as to apply the black. For a first attempt, I think it's passable - certainly with some weathering over the top, from more than 3ft away, at a scale 60mph and in poor light!! This photo is also about 4x larger than real life. I do have more excuses if you need them?! I did find this image of my first practice attempts at lining. I do feel I have made progression, so there is hope. Now all I need to do is 5 locos a day for the next 20 years.... 14 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Work continues: the unfashionable D120 van has been numbered with Methfix Trasfers. All I need to do now is apply a modicum of weathering, dull down the varnish a tad, and finally fit the glazing: In other work, I made an error. The valance on the SJ is too dark. Partly my fault, partly PPP's fault. Their website says the following: P54... "Used in conjunction with P55 Charcoal Grey for the smokebox and P56 Mid Grey for the valances, running board, frames etc. on the locomotives and below the footplate on the coaches." So thats what I did used P56, but as you can see, it is far too dark: Silver Jubilee Pic 1 Silver Jubilee Pic 2 In both of these images, the valances on the coaches are clearly lighter than the valances on the loco. I did wonder why the bogies I had previously painted were much lighter. Now I know. Anyhow, not too big of a job to correct it, and I want it to be right, so that'll be the next job. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 (edited) Quick re-spray. Much more like it I think. Here is a contrast with the A4 Silver Link Tender. Original: New version: Very similar IMHO to the Loveless set, which I am led to believe is very accurate. Don't model a model, etc etc. Edited June 22, 2020 by grob1234 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 There is colour film out there of the silver jubilee leaving kings cross. Train up close, good for details. richard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Share Posted June 23, 2020 On 22/06/2020 at 19:19, richard i said: There is colour film out there of the silver jubilee leaving kings cross. Train up close, good for details. richard Thank you Richard. I have seen that previously, lovely footage though isn't it? The valances look quite dark there... what do you think? Many photos I have seen show the valances as being lighter? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 18 minutes ago, grob1234 said: Thank you Richard. I have seen that previously, lovely footage though isn't it? The valances look quite dark there... what do you think? Many photos I have seen show the valances as being lighter? I would go on colour film as b/w you have shade and shadow and we don’t know which necessarily. richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted July 2, 2020 Author Share Posted July 2, 2020 I'm calling this one done. Lovely little build, and will look lovely behind a D2 on a local service. 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 2, 2020 On 21/06/2020 at 20:29, grob1234 said: Now I like the look of the darker more wizened versions, so I used a PP base coat and then Raw Umber over the top. It awaits clear varnish which should homogenise things a little more. I love this teak finish, and apologies if I'm being dense, but please could you describe the paints again? PP: Precision Paints? What colour? And what is your source of Raw Umber please? Or has all this been explained earlier in the thread and I've missed it? Thanks very much, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted July 2, 2020 Author Share Posted July 2, 2020 2 hours ago, DLT said: I love this teak finish, and apologies if I'm being dense, but please could you describe the paints again? PP: Precision Paints? What colour? And what is your source of Raw Umber please? Or has all this been explained earlier in the thread and I've missed it? Thanks very much, Dave. Hi Dave, thank you, I can't take much credit for it, it is essentially the method I have seen Mike Trice use. So the base for this one was Pheonix Precision P995 Teak Basecoat. Once thats very very thoroughly dry, use very small amounts of oil paint top coat. Streaking it and working it til there is very little grain efffect left. These are the paints I use: You can be creative too. I have made up a few other 'recipie cards', depending on the look you're after: The technique is still a work in progress, but hope this gives you an idea. Just have a go and experiment. 6 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted July 2, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 2, 2020 Thanks very much Tom, that's a great help. Your recipe cards are a work of art in themselves! All the best, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted July 2, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2, 2020 4 hours ago, grob1234 said: I'm calling this one done. Lovely little build, and will look lovely behind a D2 on a local service. Pure filth - I love it. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted July 2, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 2, 2020 7 minutes ago, Bucoops said: Pure filth - I love it. I'm reminded of the film 'Personal services' with Julie Walters.....I've got some hardwood that needs buffing... 1 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) Well at last the Silver Jubilee goes in the finished pile. Sort of. Curtains to fit, ride height to adjust, and silver railings to expose, but other than that, the mammoth project is at an end. I'll get some better photos in due course. I have applied the lightest of weathering. Many models I have seen are pristine. After turning at Newcastle, and heading back down the ECML, these would have picked up a little grot. I wanted to post a quick teaser as to my next project but I have reached my upload limit for the day. It will be very much a 'mixed-media' build. More to come Edited July 23, 2020 by grob1234 8 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted July 23, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 23, 2020 Still stunning. Well done! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted July 23, 2020 Author Share Posted July 23, 2020 Thanks Rich 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxUnpopuli Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Indeed. Superb. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted November 9, 2020 Author Share Posted November 9, 2020 Hello, I'm just updating some of the pictures that were lost when photobucket went weird. Here is my coronation build from earlier in pictures. I think the build thread is still there somewhere. I'd do things a lot differently now, but I ended up with a nice model none the less. The images are in rough build order. 9 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxUnpopuli Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 (edited) Again, beautiful modelling. The teched sides and observation car rear casting look fantastic... The silver-chrome paint - I see from your original thread that you used a foil over the lettering afterwards and I think the photograph shows this... but how thick was that foil? It must have been almost gold-leaf thin!? Edited November 10, 2020 by FoxUnpopuli Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 3 hours ago, FoxUnpopuli said: Again, beautiful modelling. The teched sides and observation car rear casting look fantastic... The silver-chrome paint - I see from your original thread that you used a foil over the lettering afterwards and I think the photograph shows this... but how thick was that foil? It must have been almost gold-leaf thin!? Thank you Mark. The foil was this stuff: https://hobby.uk.com/bare-metal-foil-chrome.html however in the end, I decided not to use it, and just used chrome paint instead. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chas Levin Posted November 10, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 10, 2020 On 09/11/2020 at 20:27, grob1234 said: Hello, I'm just updating some of the pictures that were lost when photobucket went weird. Here is my coronation build from earlier in pictures. I think the build thread is still there somewhere. I'd do things a lot differently now, but I ended up with a nice model none the less. The images are in rough build order. Absolutely beautiful Tom! The two blues and the silver look so gorgeous together - very tempted to build some myself when I see pictures like that... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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