shellshock Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I am going to attempt to build a Martin Finney GWR Hall 4901 Adderley Hall to P4 standards with working inside valve gear DCC control working headlamps, sound and glowing firebox, Below are pictures of what comes with the kit. The first thing I am doing is having a very good read of the instructions as I find with these kits if you follow them to the letter everything works but this does take time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 18, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 18, 2016 I shall follow this thread with interest as I have a few of Martin Finney's kits in the too do pile. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I'll be picking mine up in May. BTW, if you're not using the replacement gearbox sides for the RG4, I'd be happy to give them a home! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 I shall follow this thread with interest as I have a few of Martin Finney's kits in the too do pile. Me too. For my second Finney Hall I replaced the boiler and firebox with 0.008in nickel scratchbuilt items, as the etched on boiler bands are a bit thick and doing it yourself allows you to model the gap where the boiler insulation is cut away around the boiler stay plate. I see from the picture of Tom Mallard's 4mm Bulldog on the Brassmasters website that I'm not the only one to do this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Me too. For my second Finney Hall I replaced the boiler and firebox with 0.008in nickel scratchbuilt items, .... Good idea to keep the original boiler and firebox etches as patterns for future construction, so you'll always be able to produce your own Standard no.1, 2, 4, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 If it's anything like the 7mm. version-and I assume it must be-,it will make up into a beautiful model. I did mine as 5904 'Kelham Hall' just to be different, the eight wheeled tender is by Scorpio rather than MF. Martin's own inside Stephensons valve gear fitted. Nice! Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 I have done the basic assembly on the High Level Compact Plus gearbox and fitted the proposed Mashima 14/24 motor to it and then laid it against a drawing roughly to scale so as to check that my proposed motor and box assembly will fit. Sorry about the flash on the photo and the poor angle at which I took the photo but once the motor spindle is cut down at the back of the motor there should be plenty of room. The rest of the work so far has just consisted of opening out the various holes on the frames according to the instructions as well as the holes for the Gibson Plunger Pick ups I am going to use. Whilst I was opening out the holes for the Gibson Plunger Pick ups I jumped ahead and spotted through on to the frame overlay etches as it will be easier to open them out once they are attached in due course.I have removed the 4 innermost spring J hangers as I am going to build this with the original compensation beams. Also I have cut away the frames above where the rear bogie wheels will go just so as to be sure that the final loco has no problems going around corners. Lastly I have fettled all the horn blocks against a bearing which I have marked up individually so that they are all matched sets of bearing and horn block. Lastly Horse Tan in due course you are welcome to the Portescap Gearbox side plates however at the moment it is holding in place other items on the etch which I will require in due course. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Many thanks. I've got quite a few uses for those sides! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 5904 06.JPG If it's anything like the 7mm. version-and I assume it must be-,it will make up into a beautiful model. I did mine as 5904 'Kelham Hall' just to be different, the eight wheeled tender is by Scorpio rather than MF. Martin's own inside Stephensons valve gear fitted. Nice! Jeff Since we're doing a show and tell, here's mine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 In the first photo I have got the chassis sides set up on my Avonside works chassis jig .I then soldered the horn blocks in place. Also using a Bob Moore lining Pen I marked up each bearing with dots to indicate which horn block it was fettled for North Eastern Dark Green for the right hand side and Humbrol gloss red for the left hand side. One dot for the rearmost horn block 2 dots for the middle axle and 3 dots for the front axle. Also for the rivets I used my GW Tools riveting tool which does make life easier. Having soldered in all the horn blocks I then cut out the spacers fettled and bent them up as appropriate. I also soldered in a suitable 10BA bolt for the bogie pivot and the brake cylinder top to the appropriate spacer. The last photo shows it all assembled I did use the Avonside jig again when soldering it all up so as to ensure that all was square. Next will be the compensation rod and beams and then the chassis overlays. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 We now have a Hall, two kings and a City in progress and all P4. Life is very good indeed! Looking forward to seeing progress on this and keep up the good work. Regards, Craig W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 We now have a Hall, two kings and a City in progress and all P4. Life is very good indeed! Looking forward to seeing progress on this and keep up the good work. Regards, Craig W Then I'd better post an update on the City. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Once the Avonside jig is set up for the correct wheel base, usually the first job I do is to assemble the coupling rods using the turned down ends on the short axle pegs. That will ensure that the rods exactly match the wheel base. Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Being an O gauge,and 5 inch gauge modeller ,I am in amazed at models being built this small,I know i could not do it,A question please ,what is the difference in p4,and em and oo,is it just the track gauge and if so which one is the nearest to scale,sorry for being a numpty,Thanks Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Not just the track gauge, but flangeway gaps, wheel standards and flange depths as well, to name but a few. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thankyou for that,Is P4 closer to scale than the rest,Is it the same as scale four ,or is that different again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thankyou for that,Is P4 closer to scale than the rest,Is it the same as scale four ,or is that different againDifference in checkrail gaps: P4 = 0.68mm, S4 = 0.58mm ...and back to back: P4 = 17.67 - 17.75mm, S4= 17.87mm More info here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Lyonesse Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Difference in checkrail gaps: P4 = 0.68mm, S4 = 0.58mm ...and back to back: P4 = 17.67 - 17.75mm, S4= 17.87mm More info here And if you can maintain your BB over the whole circumference of the wheelset to 10 microns (0.01mm) then I salute you --- especially if you've been able to do it with plastic centred wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Not just the track gauge, but flangeway gaps, wheel standards and flange depths as well, to name but a few. Some would no doubt say it is more than even that. More of a state of mind. A good comparison would be to think of the differences between coarse O, O and S7. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 And if you can maintain your BB over the whole circumference of the wheelset to 10 microns (0.01mm) then I salute you --- especially if you've been able to do it with plastic centred wheels. The job is made a little easier with the help of the Exactoscale back-to-back block gauge (4CW802A) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 I have now fitted the compensation beams for the rear driving wheels and the compensation wire for the front driving wheels. When soldering up the beam to the outer tube I placed some oil behind on the other side of the beam so as to ensure that the melted solder did not run between the inner and outer tubes. Then I mounted the frame overlays the etches are so good that they nearly fell in place on the guide wires that will form part on the brake gear I am impressed. Lastly in regard to Gordon A comment about doing the connecting rods at the same time if not first once the Avonside jig is set up is that the etched holes on the motion is far bigger than the pip on top of the jig axle pegs so I will have to use what I call tapered pins in the axle bushes to make them up. Next job will be the bogie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Could you use crank pin bushes on the jig's short axles? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Could you use crank pin bushes on the jig's short axles? Gordon A I have just measured the OD on long Gibson Crank Pin bush and the Diameter is 1.50 with an ID of 1mm. Now this is the same as on the jigs short axles and when I tried to fit the Gibson bush over it would not go as the fit is a slight interference one due to them being the same nominal diameter. Shame though because your idea is a nice one and when I build a chassis I prefer to do as you suggested. Lastly I checked the diameter of the etches and it came out at between 1.2 and 1.3mm diameter possibly nearer 1.3 diameter as my drills go up in steps of 0.1mm on diameter. But again thanks for the suggestion Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I have just measured the OD on long Gibson Crank Pin bush and the Diameter is 1.50 with an ID of 1mm. Now this is the same as on the jigs short axles and when I tried to fit the Gibson bush over it would not go as the fit is a slight interference one due to them being the same nominal diameter. Shame though because your idea is a nice one and when I build a chassis I prefer to do as you suggested. Lastly I checked the diameter of the etches and it came out at between 1.2 and 1.3mm diameter possibly nearer 1.3 diameter as my drills go up in steps of 0.1mm on diameter. But again thanks for the suggestion I would seriously urge you to follow Gordon's advice on this. The Gibson crank pin bush should fit over the Chassis Squared jig pins. Are there any burrs in the hole that prevent fitting? I had no trouble with mine in this respect but I have found that Gibson stuff can be a bit variable. Does the bush fit over the crank pin without a problem? Try gently running a 0.9mm drill through the hole to clear any swarf or burrs and gradually increase it to 1mm. Also worth measuring your drill bits before doing this as the cheaper ones are often under sized. Regards Mark Humphrys Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I use Ultrascale bushes, where the rod holes are larger than the pins. They appear more accurate and consistent to me. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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