Trix trains

[Il Grifone]

I just got hold of five Trix "Blood and Custard" coaches, two of which have lighting units fitted (don't ask me why - I'm not sure why I bought them).  They are pretty sound, although rather grubby, and need a good clean and lubrication, and the roofs will probably need to be repainted.  They do, as you would expect from Trix products of that vintage, have trouble negotiating Dublo pointwork and I was wondering if anyone could comment on how easy it would be to change the wheels (I haven't taken any out yet to see what shape the ends of the axles are, nor am I sure what would be the best way to take them out) and whether Dublo wheels could be fitted (the coaches with lighting would obviously need metal wheels and axles on at least the bogie without the 3rd rail pickup) or, if Dublo wheels won't fit, which make would?

 

The wheels have similar axles to Dublo, so it is just a simple matter of easing out the sideframes and changing the wheelsets. (Don't use excessive force as Trix tinplate is not as forgiving as Dublo's!) The bogie with the centre pickup will require insulated wheels to avoid a short, as the bogies are live to their pickup. The Trix wheels are about 10mm in diameter so Dublo wheels will raise the coach by about 1mm (not really a problem as they are a trifle undersized compared to Dublo coaches), and the couplings will require slight adjustment. The Trix wheels will go through Dublo pointwork if the back to back is reset, but bump badly. The smaller Tri-ang rolling stock wheels could be used or the originals could be turned down. They require a beefy power supply as the original bulbs take 75mA each. A Dublo controller will struggle with the locomotive motor and two Trix coaches (Been there....). The Trix transformer could supply 3A so it was not a problem and the Twin system allowed constant lighting.

[sagaguy]

I just got hold of five Trix "Blood and Custard" coaches, two of which have lighting units fitted (don't ask me why - I'm not sure why I bought them).  They are pretty sound, although rather grubby, and need a good clean and lubrication, and the roofs will probably need to be repainted.  They do, as you would expect from Trix products of that vintage, have trouble negotiating Dublo pointwork and I was wondering if anyone could comment on how easy it would be to change the wheels (I haven't taken any out yet to see what shape the ends of the axles are, nor am I sure what would be the best way to take them out) and whether Dublo wheels could be fitted (the coaches with lighting would obviously need metal wheels and axles on at least the bogie without the 3rd rail pickup) or, if Dublo wheels won't fit, which make would?

If these are the BritishTrix plastic Mk1 coaches,i replaced the wheels on mine with modern Hornby R8096 coach wheels.

 

               Ray

[Il Grifone]

If these are the BritishTrix plastic Mk1 coaches,i replaced the wheels on mine with modern Hornby R8096 coach wheels.

 

               Ray

 

 I was assuming the earlier tinplate coaches. The later ones run perfectly on Dublo track and don't have lights.

[Wolseley]

They are the earlier tinplate ones.  Here they are (the other three are the same type but without the lights)

 

[sagaguy]

 I was assuming the earlier tinplate coaches. The later ones run perfectly on Dublo track and don't have lights.

Some did,they had a light bar which located in cutouts along the top of the seat units & had a centre rail p/up on one of the bogies.

 

                     Ray.

[Il Grifone]

Some did,they had a light bar which located in cutouts along the top of the seat units & had a centre rail p/up on one of the bogies.

 

                     Ray.

 

That I didn't know! but at the time I did tend to ignore them because of the 1:80 scale.

 

 

They are the earlier tinplate ones.  Here they are (the other three are the same type but without the lights)

 

 

There are three types a Brake/third, a full first and a restaurant car.  Based on Stanier stock, I think the first is actually a third. The restaurant car is identical to the first apart from the branding.  Apart from crimson and cream, they can be found in fully panelled LMS livery, LNER teak with a domed roof and later in BR maroon and chocolate and cream. There is also a matching Pullman car named 'TRIX TWIN'. They are unfortunately noticeably narrow compared to Dublo coaches. The headstocks which swivel with the bogies are an ingenious solution to the buffer locking problem with sharp 13½" curves

Edited August 7, 2018 by Il Grifone

[sagaguy]

That`s a pity because Trix Mk1 coaches are incredibly free running even better when fitted with modern Hornby R8096 coach wheels.They are to 3.87mm scale but so long as you don`t mix them with 4mm stock,they look fine as illustrated here.

 

                         

 

 

                     Ray.

[Il Grifone]

The later Trix stock is very free running. So much so that they can be used instead of a spirit level. More than once I've put them on what I thought was a level surface and they've run away.

[decauville1126]

Can anyone advise on where to start troubleshooting an 0-4-0 AC chassis please?

 

Using a Trix controller, it wants to run at slow speed even with the rheostat turned right down. It will speed up when the rheostat is turned up, and will also ratchet the reverser shaft ok when the switch is flicked. All my other AC chassis seem to work ok. It's also a very noisy 'buzzer' when on the track compared to my other chassis which 'humm'.

 

I wonder if there is some current leakage from the reverser coil to the field coil maybe.

 

Any guidance appreciated!

[Il Grifone]

Trix advice was to adjust the brush tension so that the loco will stop at the lowest setting of the controller. The reverser relay should drop out below 4.5V and the loco start at 6V. You could try the effect of disconnecting the reverser coil. The loco will still run, but not reverse. Apart from insufficent tension in the brushes (check they're not worn, it could possibly be wear in the bearings or gears.

 

Apart from my 'Scotsman', all mine have been converted to DC with a bridge rectifier feeding the field coil (sacrilege I know, but at least you know which way she's going to go).

[sagaguy]

This the best source for information on servicing AC locos but to get spares,you have to join them but cheap at £14 a year.

 

                         http://www.ttrca.co.uk/Spares.htm

           Ray.

[decauville1126]

Apart from my 'Scotsman', all mine have been converted to DC with a bridge rectifier feeding the field coil (sacrilege I know, but at least you know which way she's going to go).

 

Trix advice was to adjust the brush tension so that the loco will stop at the lowest setting of the controller. The reverser relay should drop out below 4.5V and the loco start at 6V. You could try the effect of disconnecting the reverser coil. The loco will still run, but not reverse. Apart from insufficent tension in the brushes (check they're not worn, it could possibly be wear in the bearings or gears.

 

Apart from my 'Scotsman', all mine have been converted to DC with a bridge rectifier feeding the field coil (sacrilege I know, but at least you know which way she's going to go).

 

Can you expand on the bridge rectifier method? If there's a component which is small enough to fit inside the loco then please advise. I keep ending up with locos that are bitzas and some form of operation is preferable to none. And if you are able to post a pic of the arrangement then that would be most appreciated. I've seen the 'similar' posts relating to Bing and Marklin, and would prefer to leave the original ac gear in place and just bypass it (if that's what is done).

Thanks.

[Il Grifone]

Here are some photos of my American Passenger Loco. She no longer has her reverser, but it is not necessary to remove it just to disconnect the coil.

 

 

She has been repainted so no longer has her number and 'TRIX TWIN' on the tender. Her pilot is not the original as (like lots of them) had lost it before coming home.

 

 

 

These two show the bridge rectifier attached to the coil. The original reversing shaft can also be left in circuit and just needs setting to the right position.

 

Somewhere I have the circuit, but I will probably have to redraw it and post it later.

[Il Grifone]

These rectifiers are suitable:-

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bridge-Rectifier-1-5Amp-1000-Volt-Part-W10-Single-Phase-Silicon-x-5pcs-or-Offers/292823991197?hash=item442dab839d:g:iAwAAOSwropbo3tv:rk:15:pf:0

 

4 1N4007 diodes can be used but these are neater.

[Il Grifone]

The job consists of disconnecting both ends of the field coil and one end of the reverser coil.. Insulate the loose end of the reverser coil with a piece of PVC wire insulation. The two ends of the field coil go to the + and - wires of the bridge rectifier and the the two AC wires to the points the field to which the coil was connected. the locomotive should now operate, but it may be necessary to rotate the reversing shaft to her go the right direction. The rectifier ensures that the current always flows in the same condition irrespective of the supply polarity. Ensure that the field coil remains in series with the brushgear as before.

 

Obviously she will no longer run on an AC supply.

[Il Grifone]

I'm trying to date my Trix Western Region 56xx no. 6664. Can anyone please help?

 

From what I gather the model first appeared in 1959 as catalogue no. F103, along with the Britannia and Class V (as Trix called it - everyone else stuck with Class 5) and the Ruston diesel shunter. These all had the standard coarse Trix wheels.

 

Soon afterwards (1960?) the first three were fitted with 'convertible wheels with a removable plastic flange. This could be removed leaving a wheel to Dublo standards, This was when I acquired my first one (for 63/- IIRC). The catalogue number now appears as 1101 for the black version (mine) and 1105 for the green, according to this site  http://www.trix.co.uk/

 

These still had the metal coupling which caused intermittent shorts with Dublo stock, as the Trix chassis are live to the centre rail and Dublo to the running rails . This caused me much trouble at the time. I can't think why the obvious solution of insulation tape (or even sellotape) did not occur to me. She also jerked into a rapid trot at the minimum setting of my Dublo controllers and then ran rather roughly. After this disappointing start, I failed to add the Britannia and Class V to my collection.

 

Later versions came with scale' wheels and in 2 rail. These presumably had the later plastic coupling, resolving the above problem.

 

Can anyone confirm the dates and catalogue numbers?  Unfortunately the above site doesn't menton dates (neither does the TTRCA one) and I don't have the Trix bible.

 

Thanks in advance 

Edited December 27, 2018 by Il Grifone

[kevinlms]

I'm trying to date my Trix Western Region 56xx no. 6664. Can anyone please help?

 

From what I gather the model first appeared in 1959 as catalogue no. F103, along with the Britannia and Class V (as Trix called it - everyone else stuck with Class 5) and the Ruston diesel shunter. These all had the standard coarse Trix wheels.

 

Soon afterwards (1960?) the first three were fitted with 'convertible wheels with a removable plastic flange. This could be removed leaving a wheel to Dublo standards, This was when I acquired my first one (for 63/- IIRC). The catalogue number now appears as 1101 for the black version (mine) and 1105 for the green, according to this site  http://www.trix.co.uk/

 

These still had the metal coupling which caused intermittent shorts with Dublo stock, as the Trix chassis are live to the centre rail and Dublo to the running rails . This caused me much trouble at the time. I can't think why the obvious solution of insulation tape (or even sellotape) did not occur to me. She also jerked into a rapid trot at the minimum setting of my Dublo controllers and then ran rather roughly. After this disappointing start, I failed to add the Britannia and Class V to my collection.

 

Later versions came with scale' wheels and in 2 rail. These presumably had the later plastic coupling, resolving the above problem.

 

Can anyone confirm the dates and catalogue numbers?  Unfortunately the above site doesn't menton dates (neither does the TTRCA one) and I don't have the Trix bible.

 

Thanks in advance 

The Trix 0-6-2T is advertised in Railway Modeller 1959 September (incorporating August - due to a printers strike) and appears in a Southgate Hobbyshop (later Beatties) ad. It states "GWR 0-6-2T (Oct) 53/6".

 

In RM for 1960 January Trix have a full page ad, advising that 

"Trix Universal Wheels are scale wheels plus addition of a thin plastic band for non-scale operation. Easily removed for scale wheel track operation".

 

I hope that helps.

[D51]

I'm trying to date my Trix Western Region 56xx no. 6664. Can anyone please help?

 

From what I gather the model first appeared in 1959 as catalogue no. F103, along with the Britannia and Class V (as Trix called it - everyone else stuck with Class 5) and the Ruston diesel shunter. These all had the standard coarse Trix wheels.

 

Soon afterwards (1960?) the first three were fitted with 'convertible wheels with a removable plastic flange. This could be removed leaving a wheel to Dublo standards, This was when I acquired my first one (for 63/- IIRC). The catalogue number now appears as 1101 for the black version (mine) and 1105 for the green, according to this site  http://www.trix.co.uk/

 

These still had the metal coupling which caused intermittent shorts with Dublo stock, as the Trix chassis are live to the centre rail and Dublo to the running rails . This caused me much trouble at the time. I can't think why the obvious solution of insulation tape (or even sellotape) did not occur to me. She also jerked into a rapid trot at the minimum setting of my Dublo controllers and then ran rather roughly. After this disappointing start, I failed to add the Britannia and Class V to my collection.

 

Later versions came with scale' wheels and in 2 rail. These presumably had the later plastic coupling, resolving the above problem.

 

Can anyone confirm the dates and catalogue numbers?  Unfortunately the above site doesn't menton dates (neither does the TTRCA one) and I don't have the Trix bible.

 

Thanks in advance 

The Trix 66XX was introduced by Dufay in October 1959 as model F103.  This was for 3-rail only, fitted with convertible wheels.  At the same time Southgate Hobbyshop sold a 2-rail version, made specially for them by Dufay.

 

These models were in lined black.  In February 1960 a lined green version was introduced as F103G and the black one was renumbered F103B.  Later in 1960 the models were sold to retailers as 2-rail versions like the Southgate ones.

 

In 1963 the model was substantially altered by the new manufacturers British Trix Ltd with new body casting incorporating a weight, new chassis fixing method on 2-rail models and no pickup shoes for the outer rails.  The model numbers were changed to the new British Trix format thus

1100  Black,  scale wheels,  3-rail

1101  Black,  convertible wheels,  3-rail

1102  Black,  scale wheels,  2-rail

1104  Green,  scale wheels,  3-rail

1105  Green,  convertible wheels,  3-rail

1106  Green  scale wheels,  2-rail

 

The model was discontinued in 1964.

 

Incidentally the Ruston shunter was introduced in 1958 by Ewart Holdings as most of its parts were supplied by German Trix.

The Britannia and Class V were introduced in March 1959 by Dufay.

 

Frank

[Il Grifone]

Thanks for the replies!

 

I can now definitely identify the two I have as F103B. The first was bought in either late 1959 or, more likely, in 1960 new and the other about ten years ago on eBay. I also have a spare body again black. The first was repainted in GWR green many years ago and is now again BR black. Perhaps I should repaint her again in BR green. Both have lost their pony trucks over the years so I'll have to make up some replacements. The only one I have ever seen on eBay was silly money.   Not a great loss as the original trucks were rubbish being made of folded tinplate with tiny wheels. The first one will also need a new keeper plate as I converted her to 2 rail without great success.

 

Thanks again,

 

David

[sagaguy]

A short video of my Trix A2,originally 2 rail,this is a loco drive model converted to run on my Dublo 3 rail layout.

 

 

                                 

 

                   Ray.

[Wolseley]

On 09/01/2019 at 10:36, sagaguy said:

A short video of my Trix A2,originally 2 rail,this is a loco drive model converted to run on my Dublo 3 rail layout.

                   Ray.

 

Nice.  I recently bought a Trix Flying Scotsman and an AH Peppercorn.  I can think of a few ways of converting them to three rail, but is there one way that would work better than the others?  The loco chassis of mine seem identical, but the Scotsman has additional pickups on the tender.

 

Jim

[sagaguy]

I`m not familiar with the Scotsman but to convert the Peppercorn,you need the centre rail p/up shoes & spring & most importantly,a set of insulated bogie wheels,front & back.If you don`t do this,you will get a dead short as the chassis is live to the centre rail.That`s what caught me out when i 3 railed mine.I got over it by insulating the p/up assy from the chassis but i wouldn`t do it like that again.You can get a complete set of parts from the TTRCA parts officer but you have be a member to order but for £14 a year,it`s good value.

 

 

                           Ray.

[Wolseley]

Thanks for the reply, Ray.  From what you say I gather that an earlier Trix 3 rail pickup will fit a Trix Peppercorn, in a similar way to fitting a Dublo 3 rail pickup to a Wrenn City of London, for example.  Is that correct?  If all else fails I suppose I could fit a Marklin skate.

 

Jim

[Wolseley]

After a long delay, I finally got around to three railing my Scotsman.  After looking at it for some  time, wondering what would best fit where, it turned out to be a pretty straightforward job.  I used a Marklin skate, #7164, under the loco, in place of the pick-up on the driving wheels.  It has just spent the last 45 minutes or so going around the layout, with an HD Mallard for company:

 

 

I still have to retouch the red lining and straighten out (or replace) the handrails, but it's running very nicely.

 

 

Edited February 19, 2020 by Wolseley
clarification

[roythebus]

I've just found a pair of Trix AL1 bogies, one with motor, the wheels have plastic inserts to represent  the internal springing, but missing the side frames. Also an AL1 body converted to look like an AL6. anyone interested?

Edited March 13, 2020 by roythebus
typo