Inspired by Brent June 1947

[The Fatadder]

39 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

. Most Gibson wheels that I've used (or have in stock) also require you to drill your own crankpin holes out and then tap them.

that’s a fair point (and In those cases there is absolutely no chance I would touch them as the risk is just too high.  
 

the next two loco builds I have planned are the Saint (for which I have older Romfords which work and a 2251 (for which I have a feeling the Gibson’s are not pre drilled so will need Markits).  After which I am only left with a white metal 54 xx (which would need a brass chassis buying) or a pair of 45xx body’s (which would also need chassis buying) so nothing loco building wise for a while...

[Siberian Snooper]

Why not use the a nickel silver chassis from High Level, they go together well, for the 54xx. Still needs buying though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The Fatadder]

34 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

Why not use the a nickel silver chassis from High Level, they go together well, for the 54xx. Still needs buying though.

 

That will eventually be the plan, I'm afraid I was using "brass" as somethong of a catch all.  Replacement chassis would have been better wording.  It will get done eventually, though having already added 7427 (and in 1470 I already have an implausable autotrain in the fleet) its just not that useful on the layout.  My next chassis build will be a High Level for my Finney 2251 (having bought the kit 2nd hand missing its chassis).  The High Level was to be a first attempt at CSBs on my last P4 layout (under a Mainline body) and got to the stage of hornblocks cut out / frames assembelled.   So I need to unsolder the frames and rebuild to OO, at which point my current logic is to set it up on the jig and solder the hornblocks solid in position.  Of course I need to get the 43xx running first (as I have said before the mechanical side of chassis building / getting it running is an aspect of kit building that I dont particularly enjoy.)

 

 

Back to things that are slightly more useful, I have  finished off the cattle wagons. (which not join the others in the stock box awaiting couplings.)

The coopercraft models were copied from photos (one from the internet, if I remember rightly off Warwickshire Railways) and the other with the replacement planks taken from the 4mm Wagon Pt2. As ever the photo stage identifies the odd bit of rectification work that you dont see with the model in your hand, so i have needed to touch up the grey paint in a  couple of areas.  I need to buy a new brush....

 

The final cattle van is a W12 which has been converted from an Airfix kit.  Cutting out the slots on the lower sides was a real pain (so much so I only ever finished the one).  When I next place an order with LMS I need some buffers to finish it off.

  I live in hope that someone will bring out a kit of a later diagrame GW cattle van as we are so badly served compared to other railways (even more so with the demise of Coopercraft).

 

So I am now starting to be able to see the surface of my workbench, There is a Ratio mink (to be finished in blue as the "Salvage for Victory" example, another Ratio Mink with MRD parts (needs brake gear assembelling), Coopercraft V4 (tall) Mink and a O4 5 plank which along with what I think is an Airfix conflat need a coat of paint.  The LMS 5 plank that was "finished" the other day still awaiting the axleboxes gluing in positon  And finally a Kirk Monster awaiting transfers.

 

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by The Fatadder

[Captain Kernow]

2 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

Why not use the a nickel silver chassis from High Level, they go together well, for the 54xx. Still needs buying though

And there's a good article in a recent MRJ by Jerry Clifford and Gerry Beale.

 

[Captain Kernow]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

My next chassis build will be a High Level for my Finney 2251 (having bought the kit 2nd hand missing its chassis).  The High Level was to be a first attempt at CSBs on my last P4 layout (under a Mainline body) and got to the stage of hornblocks cut out / frames assembelled.   So I need to unsolder the frames and rebuild to OO, at which point my current logic is to set it up on the jig and solder the hornblocks solid in position.

OK, I wish you the best of luck with that! It seems a course of action fraught with possible risks.

 

I wouldn't suggest keeping the CSBs, as I am an advocate of keeping things as simple as possible (and I don't think CSBs are simple), but what you could consider is simple single-beam compensation.

 

That way, you'd only have to solder the driven axle hornblocks up solid, which is considerably less risky and then continue with the rest of the chassis in the jig. You would then have the advantage of having the flexibility of compensation which, even in OO, does make a difference in terms of running and electrical pick-up.

 

One thing I've found with my recent construction of the High Level chassis for my 74XX, is that in OO, the use of standard size hornblock bearings results in the gearbox provided by High Level not fitting between the bearings on the driven axle, even if you remove the raised circle of brass on the inside face of the bearings, as stated in the instructions. You would either need to file the bearings right down or use High Level's slimmer ones. I didn't realise this until the chassis had been soldered up, which resulted in my having to re-build the gearbox itself, as per a recent blog entry.

 

[The Fatadder]

2 minutes ago, Captain Kernow said:

OK, I wish you the best of luck with that! It seems a course of action fraught with possible risks.

 

I wouldn't suggest keeping the CSBs, as I am an advocate of keeping things as simple as possible (and I don't think CSBs are simple), but what you could consider is simple single-beam compensation.

 

That way, you'd only have to solder the driven axle hornblocks up solid, which is considerably less risky and then continue with the rest of the chassis in the jig. You would then have the advantage of having the flexibility of compensation which, even in OO, does make a difference in terms of running and electrical pick-up.

 

One thing I've found with my recent construction of the High Level chassis for my 74XX, is that in OO, the use of standard size hornblock bearings results in the gearbox provided by High Level not fitting between the bearings on the driven axle, even if you remove the raised circle of brass on the inside face of the bearings, as stated in the instructions. You would either need to file the bearings right down or use High Level's slimmer ones. I didn't realise this until the chassis had been soldered up, which resulted in my having to re-build the gearbox itself, as per a recent blog entry.

 

thanks for that, very useful to know given I have only built high level chassis in P4 previously.  Looking at the Included gearbox It has a step inwards at the bottom (presumably to allow for the narrowness)

to be honest I think the odds of success with this are fairly low, but I’ve taken the logic that what I have is practically worthless (the half built frames / gearbox missing its gears) so I might as well try building it.   Worst cast I have to buy a new chassis and start again).  
To increase the risk further still I am debating reusing a set of Bachmann wheels drilled for Gibson crankpins... 

 

At the end of the day it’s not a core loco (it’s justified on the basis I had the kit and the loco I’ve modelled was at NA for maintenance in 47 (which it was) and has been grabbed to use on a local goods turn. So it’s not high enough up the list to justify further spend at the moment.

[Captain Kernow]

One other thing that I've remembered about using Gibsons (or Ultrascales for that matter).

 

This was a P4 chassis, but it applies equally to using these types of wheels in OO (or EM).

 

I built a pannier chassis a few years ago (using Ultrascales, as it happens), with single beam compensation. In order to facilitate painting (of both chassis and wheels) I built it to allow the two compensated axles (front and middle) to drop out, by soldering the springs to a piece of copper clad, which was then screwed to a spacer under the chassis.

 

The springs retained the axles in place and when they were removed, the hornblocks just slid out.

 

I found this helped enormously in terms of painting the wheels and the chassis.

 

Once I'd quartered the wheels on the driven axle, I think I left those in place, although I believe that I painted the area behind those wheels before putting them on for the final time.

 

This should reduce the number of times you have to dismantle wheelsets (and potentially risk affecting the quartering that you have laboured long and hard, in my case, to get right!).

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by Captain Kernow

[The Fatadder]

One of the few benefits of the current lockdown and associated working from home is that it’s possible to fit in a little lunch time modelling

 

today a monster has been on the workbench.  Now it has had the chassis and ends painted and transfers applied.  It has also been fitted with couplings.  It now just needs a coat of varnish before glazing can be added.   (It needs each window cutting out individually from plastic in order to flush glaze) 

[Captain Kernow]

So what's the photographic background scenic set up you're using, Rich? Is it part of the layout or a diorama?

 

[The Fatadder]

1 hour ago, Captain Kernow said:

So what's the photographic background scenic set up you're using, Rich? Is it part of the layout or a diorama?

 

I did @Mick Bonwick & Nick Wood’s scenics course at Pendon a year or two ago, and this was what you made over the day.  It has a farm track running across (with a puddle) and used to have more bushes (which ended up on Wheal Imogen).   My intention is to replace the farm track with a length of Exactoscale and ballast it with whatever leftover ballast I have from the main layout.  I also have a strip of leftover photo backscene to mount behind it.  
 

In the mean time I try to take photos looking up at the stock so you can’t see the lack of track 

Edited May 4, 2020 by The Fatadder
Because I am useless at remembering names...

[Mick Bonwick]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

I did @Mick Bonwick & @KNPs scenics course at Pendon a year or two ago, and this was what you made over the day.  It has a farm track running across (with a puddle) and used to have more bushes (which ended up on Wheal Imogen).   My intention is to replace the farm track with a length of Exactoscale and ballast it with whatever leftover ballast I have from the main layout.  I also have a strip of leftover photo backscene to mount behind it.  
 

In the mean time I try to take photos looking up at the stock so you can’t see the lack of track 

 

It was Nick Wood, Rich, not Kevin. I knew I'd seen that piece of scenery somewhere before!

[The Fatadder]

My memory is useless....  will go and edit.....

hopefully I will remember what I learned!

[The Fatadder]

Having finally finished work for the day, I have managed a quick wagon build.  The source was the body from another childhood wagon, a small capacity 5 plank belonging to Clee Hill Granite Co in Ludlow. Now given Dartmoor being on its doorstep I can’t see someone shipping in granite from Ludlow so the wagon as it comes is not very useful.  
 

however a little work with a finerglass pencil and some replacement planks (not to mention some dirt) and it’s now a more local quarry’s wagon.

 

a replacement chassis has been put together using Cambrian spares (it still needs buffers given I have completely ran out!)  The chassis still needs painting (and the iron work needs a little tidying up).

[The Fatadder]

Another evening's wagon work continues to distract away from the layout, it seems that as soon as i clear out a batch of wagons I find another stock box of incomplete projects which take their place.  Still as soon as my Phoenix order arrives with the rest of the ballast there will be no excuse not to get on with the layout.  

 

This evenings work has seen 2 more conflats, a vac braked V4 8ft Mink and a Coopercraft 5 plank (which has been fitted with a sheet).  All are now awaiting their transfers over the next few evenings (although in the case of the Conflats it appears the trusty HMRS sheet is missing most of what is required.

 

I am also working to finish off a Dave Geen Fruit C, I was never happy with the included roof so have cut my own from 10thou brass (before rolling it in my GW Models rollers) and gluing in place.  It was glued rather than soldered given there is no access to the inside (having soldered the Bill Bedford units in place previously.  I drilled the holes for the roof detail before rolling (so these just need the final opening out and the cast vents gluing in place.  It now needs steps soldering up and fitting along with the final small castings ((working from photos as I have lost the instructions).  The aim will be to get it painted at the weekend…

Edited May 5, 2020 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

The fruit C has now been primed and will be getting painted tomorrow, finally clearing it off the bench (the kit was started before Brent had even been thought of...

 

 

[The Fatadder]

Fruit C is now finished, (bar couplings which are still tbc).

 

while I was painting it I also painted a BR Blue Lima siphon into GWR brown.  It still needs new bogies, But for the time being I have gone for sudo GWR bogies by chopping bits off the Lima ones as an approximation.   I really need a copy of the Slin book on Siphons for the next couple of projects (I have another inside framed Lima G, a Mallard J, 2 Hornby H and 2 Hornby G all awaiting new identities and different liveried.   I need more period photos to help confirm numbers and liveries, and more importantly to confirm bogie types. (But I don’t want to pay £35 or so for a book which will be rendered obsolete once the new revised version eventually appears)  

 

I have found a suitable prototype for the first one so that will be numbered tonight 

[The Fatadder]

The ‘finished’ siphon now enters the queue for couplings.  It will eventually get the correct bogies fitted at some point in the future.  I need to test the pizza cutter wheels through my points to confirm if works (otherwise it will be jumping up the queue!)

 

 

Still on the bench are the Conflats (need to buy transfers), 3 engineers wagons (need to buy transfers), a Bachmann toad for new handrails (will need to buy wheels), a Syphon J which needs a chassis plus body detailing and a Toplight 

 

I did a little work on the latter, painting on the lining and starting the weathering.  I’m going for a tattier finish for an older coach (still in roundel livery).  The thought is that the gold line is faded / harder to see so I’ve only painted the black.  (This has nothing to do with me struggling to get Modelmasters lining to stay on the raised beading...)

once fully dirty it will be glazed and the interior / roof fitted.  The compensated replacement bogies need new wheels ordering.

[The Fatadder]

After adding some transfers to a Coopercraft O4 and 8ft V4 mink.

 

 

moving on, next was some work on a Slaters E88 toplight composite.  It has had the black areas painting, numbers and classes on the doors added (HMRS) and the interior partitions fitted.  It now needs the seats building before I can fit the roof. 
I have also added a couple of coats of weathering.

loking at the chassis I clearly have made a mistake with the trussing which obstructs the bogies, another job to fix tonight.

 

i also have a Coopercraft edition body of an all third (built sides / ends / roof.) with a scratch built chassis.  This was causing me all sorts of issues getting it running, and needs a lot more work.  Though I would really like to see it finished.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

A considerable  effort. Nice job on the fruit C, well everything really but I have a thing for brown vehicles it seems. Any milk tankers in your plans?

 

Thank you again for the airbrush advice, I thought I was settled on one in particular but since our conversation I have started researching again.

[The Fatadder]

9 minutes ago, No46 said:

A considerable  effort. Nice job on the fruit C, well everything really but I have a thing for brown vehicles it seems. Any milk tankers in your plans?

I have a set of 7 (which one day will be joined by a pair of Rotanks when I get round to it).  It’s a mix of Hornby and Dapol,  but I’m not happy with the quality (particularly the chassis).  They are going to be weathered as a stop gap until something better appears, though I haven’t decided how far I will go with respect to etched walkways etc.   They are pending some heavy weathering (and the build of a suitable full brake to complete the take).

[Bluemonkey presents....]

I am lucky enough to have the David Green kit to build up just have to get my skills sharpened as well as finding a considerable amount of time for the builds and appropriate research.

I know what you mean about the  chassis, Hornby definitely better than Dapol but such a wealth of livery in Dapol.

Edited May 9, 2020 by No46
Spealin

[The Fatadder]

Livery wise I’m not so worried, given by the time they are weathered you can barely see what’s underneath.

 

I do regret not buying the Geen kit when I could, at the time the price coupled with competing needs on the model budget came out on top.  The quantity I need didn’t help either.  I really need at least one with DC brakes so it’s going to be ‘fun’ trying to adapt the RTR moulded chassis...

[The Fatadder]

More work on the Toplight.   The interior annoyingly mostly had non corridor seats so they all had to be chopped to length before gluing into place.  Once dry they were given a coat of red/blue paint (for 3rd/1st).  The interior was then fitted to the coach and the roof tested.  
i have said before I prefer to work from the roof down, part of the reason is getting a good fit between roof and side can be a pain (as can getting a good bond).  By its nature in this case the roof goes on post painting making it all the more tricky. Tomorrow I will fit couplings, glazing and paint & fit the roof.   Though in the case of the latter I still need to work out what’s best to stick it with...   before adding the roof I will also add some passengers (from the same Chinese pack i use on modern coaches (but painting the clothes more subdued colours)

 

I also need to do the final detailing of the sides, adding the brass bits to the doors and ends.  
All being well it will be finished and on the layout this weekend...

[Neal Ball]

That Toplight looks lovely. 

 

Apparently Slaters have the moulds back and are going to re issue them. Although I found them very fiddly to make, another couple would make a nice rake.
 

[The Fatadder]

I’d certainly like to add at least one more of the slaters kits, but given the wide variety of Toplight designs I think I will be relying on Worsley Works etched sides at some point to get sufficient variety.  I found getting a straight side with the slaters kit harder than I would have liked