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50 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Probably not much help but there is a close up of the 041 milk tank showing the details of the strap tensioning studs, centre tank mounts, valves and filler clamps etc on p97 of Martyn Welch's book The art of weathering.

Thank you, I knew I had seen a photo of one of these wagons in a wild swan book.  But after searching in couldn’t find it. Will now go and have a look

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On 19/05/2020 at 11:25, Denbridge said:

It's true. They've already released most of the wagons. I've played a small part towards getting the GWR coaches back into production. My last conversation with David White revealed that time was the biggest obstruction to getting these out again. But patience will yield its reward. They are coming....eventually.


if I was Slaters, before I relaunched this range, I’d want to have what I viewed as an adequate stock level.  I suspect that these will be fairly popular, by the standards of 4mm kits, and those of us who covet them, and have sufficient disposable cash, may choose to stock up whilst they’re in production rather than run the risk of them disappearing again.  Hopefully lock down has given David White and the Slaters’ team some of the time they need!

 

Daivd

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I had to reglue a couple of windows which had fallen out, (two corridor large windows and 2 compartment side toilet windows)

 

The A22 has the droplights etched into the side, while the A20 has separate etches. This makes glazing a bit of a pain with each window needing to be individually cut (and practically no room on the sides to glue the windows in place.  It’s a good job it’s easy to get inside!  I hope once the interior is fitted

it will help hold them in position.  
 

the door windows which fell out were due to the plastic overhanging the holes for the grab rails and door handle. (Now fitted)  

 

the roof has gained a toilet tank filler panel, but still needs roof boards (and handrails) adding. Couplings will go on tomorrow or Friday along with the flexible corridor connector. 
 

 

DE61A4ED-07A4-4240-95A6-375F9FD934BE.jpeg

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Very slow progress on the 10:30 but it’s just too warm in the office / workshop after a day with the computer running. 
 

but I have managed a little progress, the sunshine stock C77 in wartime brown has now been fitted with its new couplings, as has the second C77 which has been substituted for the missing Sunshine composite.  While they were open both C77 had the seats painted red and passengers glued in place.
E65D961E-F1F9-4006-8C44-09F4A83EF4BB.jpeg.c34b8aab5abe19af301ef2adab71d7ac.jpeg

 

This needed a little more work, as I didn’t want it in the roundel livery.  So it’s been lined out with the second line, gold lettering replaced with yellow and the roundel with Great crest Western.  

F33784BE-C31D-4B48-8619-C4DA843D4F62.jpeg.0ee1b0efddf00dfb83ca30a95c86c906.jpeg

the holes have been drilled and solder pads glued in place, so the rest of the rake just needs the actual couplings soldered in place.
 

 

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Well that was a stupid mistake, I soldered the first two coaches at lunch.  Then forgot to turn it off, so I’ve had the iron running T 300degrees all afternoon until about 930pm.  No wonder it was so hot in there!

 

Anyway back to the model, the two Hawksworth brakes have both now been fitted with couplings.  I then set to work on the last two (both Comet), I decided to add a bit of pcb onto which to solder the loops so had to wait for the glue to cure (so will do the soldering tomorrow). At which point it can return to the layout.

 

given the lack of Dingham fitted locos I have left the tension locks on the ends for now.

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Posted (edited)

And the Riviera is complete, (for now at least), with the remaining couplings and flexible corridor connections fitted this morning.   The latter are a little wider than I would like (was the Mainline Collett's corridor too wide?)  It will do for now, but will end up getting reworked one day, as I think the version I used on the Centenaries and the sleeper were a better size.

 

With the couplings fitted there was a little renumbering to do (done after the below photo), with the Hawksworth stock changed to match the prototype formation. 

 

Quote

Formation of the late 1947 service is taken from Harris via ChrisF

King George V 6000

Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] - 838  

Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 792 (Omitted from my formation)

Third C73 [Collett] - 1490 (Large Window, currently this has been replaced with a C77 third and will eventually need to be built.  However looking at Russell the compartment side of both coaches is very similar.)

Composite E158 [Collett] - 7327 (Omitted from my formation)

Composite E155 [Collett] - 6136 (I dont have any sunshine stock composites, so this will need to be built.  I am in two minds between shortening sides to fit a Mainline body (to keep the roof rivet detail) or building a Comet.  it currently has a 2nd C77 filling the gap.)

Dining car H26 [Collett 70 ft] - 9571 (Stupid mistake time, when I ordered the kit I didnt specify that I needed bow ends and ended up with a H27 built as the example in Russell, this one wont get replaced for a long time as otherwise the H27 would be redundant)

First A22 [Collett] - 8100 (I have a Comet kit to build for the A22 but for the moment I have an A20 used instead.  As the compartment side looks the same )

Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 800

Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] 837

 

-and the Plymouth portion:  (This is currently omitted from my formation due to fiddleyard constraints, however I will have all of the required coaches to add it in the future.)

Third C82 [Hawksworth] - 803 (I still need another third to use for this, though given they are like hens teeth an option would be rebuilding a composite)

First A20 [Collett] - 8044 (Omitted from my formation, will use the A20 that is currently in the main set once  the A22 has been built.  I had completely forgotten that this coach was in the full formation and hence numbered it as 8046.  Thankfully it will not be too difficult to change the 6 to a 4)

Brake Third D131 [Hawksworth] - 844 (Omitted from my formation, but I have modelled the coach for the future)

 

FF62E33F-115A-4C0B-A3FD-4A944329C1B4.jpeg

Edited by The Fatadder
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This evening I have been finishing off my Manor, I keep loosing the crank pin nuts (and couldn’t find them again today) so ended up substituting some Gibson ones instead of the Markits.

 

as ever I had a few issues with the Ross binding, (resolved by opening up the holes a little more) along with the driven rod hitting the lead crank pin. But for there in the end.   (Though I will admit that I couldn’t get it to work with both slide bar assemblies fitted so for now at least it just has the visible side...

 

I was going to take it out and photograph it on the layout, but for the moment this will have to so

 

5CBED393-A8D5-48C2-B5EE-CFB07BBE6393.jpeg.f7cc939a02e94a810eddae2bad397c0f.jpeg
 

The plan was to follow this by completing the same work on my Mitchell 43xx, but I had issues with the centre crank pin.  There doesn’t appear to be enough length to fit the con rod.  I recall Gibson selling a long crank pin which I guess I should have used, most annoying as it will mean removing the Gibson driver which is currently on square!

 

I will keep thinking as to whether there is an alternative which doesn’t involve the removal of the wheel.   Once it’s got it’s rods in place it will need the drive gear securing with locktight, and pickups adding (two more jobs that I hate doing. 

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I have actually made it out into the layout room and managed some test running of the Manor which thankfully it passed.  One day I will end up stripping down the chassis and adding a motor, but for now it is perfect for double heading.

 

950D4141-1253-4872-AD0A-99FE097051A2.jpeg.c2dfcd9785d9bc9e59c23877dc000e6f.jpeg

looking at the layout there are two main hold ups, ballasting the Exeter end (which requires me getting round to ordering some ballast...) and weathering the track.   The plan was to get on with the latter next week, but a Covid case in my daughters class at school means I will be home schooling instead!  
As soon as the track is weathered at the Plymouth end I want to get the grass down on the right hand fields.  It will be nice to have a semi complete area for photos.

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1 hour ago, Siberian Snooper said:

With regards the 43xx, have you shortened the Gibson crank pin? if not you just need to get the longer bush, to accept the con rod.

 


no the pin hasn’t been shortened, I have checked against a new pin out of the packet.  
 

 

The photo below shows the problem, the rod has no room to add a nut.  Right now the only thing I can think of is removing the thicker boss which would hopefully give me enough space to add a nut

 

are the cylinders spaced closer together for a OO loco than for P4?  This being a rebuild of a P4 chassis down to OO the cylinders would have been built to P4 standards

 

I think the lead crank pin nut needs thinning to improve the clearance as well.

 

I really enjoy building my kits, but absolutely hate trying to get the dammed things to work!  Building the frames and cylinders is fine, adding the motion and mechanism on the other hand.....

C1E72822-73AB-43DC-93DE-FB0BA8D9652F.jpeg

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More progress on the 73xx:

The first job was to dismantle the front end again and to enlarge the holes in the rods.  A Gibson crank pin bush was filed down to get a 1mm ID washer, before reassembling and reversing the nut so that it was recessed into the rod.  Finally after loosing a nut while testing, a touch of superglue was used to seal it into position.

 

Moving on to the slidebar / rod assembly, I unsoldered the thick part of the wheel end of the rod which gave just enough clearance to fit a nut onto the end of the crank pin (again securing with a dot of superglue to prevent it coming undone.)  Which has now got me to a push along chassis, all be it with a driving rod missing from one side.  As with the Manor my patients having ran out by the time I finally got one side working correctly.  I have attempted to secure the final drive gear with Loctite 603, however it is rather old so I am not entirely sure how well it will work…

51225FBD-D5FD-4033-96D6-BB6B1B2CF279.jpeg.e739e001e5bff8b8b3ce889389ccfcd5.jpeg

Focus will now move onto the tender chassis, the frame for which is still P4.  I am planning a very simple bodge here, removing the detail parts before making two cuts along the centre with the Dremmel and a cutting disk.  I will then use some scrap brass to solder together new OO spacers, hopefully keeping it all square.  It will then need bearings adding to two axles replacing the half build compensation on the original build.  Of course if that fails there is always the alternative of buying a Comet tender chassis and fitting that (I did end up sourcing one via ebay, but it turned out to be the wrong spacing…)

B6528449-F79D-4629-84F0-BB95EB4E8684.jpeg.d9e8e4f062d2ed37e5338e96b7398a1e.jpeg

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My plan for a week working on the layout this week was dealt a major blow last Tuesday when my eldest’s class was sent home after one of her friends had asymptomatic covid.  So instead I am homeschooling.   Thankfully today is history, and her year 2 class are currently studying Brunel, so this mornings lesson has been expanded from the Clifton suspension bridge to include the Royal Albert bridge (including photos from the walk across the bridge that Captain Kernow did several years back, Maidenhead bridge and Walkham Viaduct (with a slight diversion via some videos of Pendon)

 

Once my wife gets home normal service can resume...

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Back to a project that had been long i the works, the Vicarage Road bridge for the north end of Brent station.

 

the first set of ribs have been added to the mesh / core asembally before adding the beams to the main deck.

 

A single longitudinal beam was added on each side (representing the infill plates). The logic being it would add more strength than the transverse beams.  The latter being added afterwards between the outer beams.  
 

finally a top sheet was added cut from ten thou plastic sheet.

 

ive made the decision not to worry about the river detail, (I may eventually build a more detailed mk2 version).  I do still need to cut the small plates that fit to the lower half of the main ribs

 

The prototype in 2016

5C11F71B-CE21-4623-9BBB-C34A60E4E23A.jpeg.c3dba7153a5ff32c93e129d82a25534c.jpeg
 

the model while the glue fixing side to deck cures60DAB39D-60D0-425A-96B3-D07E6F721E01.jpeg.565f5cc089be6c00dcac1e93f37ca724.jpeg

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On 08/10/2020 at 18:42, Siberian Snooper said:

All the crank pins that I have are a lot longer than that, I have several kits in the club room, I will try to remember to have a look and measure the length of them.

 

I have finally remembered to check the length of the crank pins I have and they are 6.5mm or 1/4 inch, I have now thought that I should have fitted one, to see how far they protrude from the wheel.

 

 

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A little more work sees the bridge nearing completion and test fitted onto the layout.  I have left off the smoke deflectors for the moment and will add them once the underside has been painted (as the angles need to be adjusted to match the curve of the track.)

D83C2FD5-FF03-4A99-918E-FC39B746160D.jpeg.834d716ee19129a99dbe7edc50031944.jpeg

 

now it is onto adding the stone pillars at either end, along with the rest of the retaining walls.  

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I have checked out how much of the crank pin, protrudes through the wheel and it's 3mm and with the short bush and nut fitted, there's still about 1mm or so of thread showing. I don't have a long bush to see how much if any thread is still visible, but I would think that 1mm is adequate for a big end.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

I have checked out how much of the crank pin, protrudes through the wheel and it's 3mm and with the short bush and nut fitted, there's still about 1mm or so of thread showing. I don't have a long bush to see how much if any thread is still visible, but I would think that 1mm is adequate for a big end.

 

 

Thanks, I will go and double check the model.  At any rate I managed to get it fitted by reducing the thickness of the big end and then recessing the crank pin into the thinner etch.  But will be good to double check that I have used the right parts and at the very least prevent a repeat of the problems in the future

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The work on Vicarage Road is nearing completion, the bridge now has a pair of supports which are slowly going through the process of having the paint applied. 
 

tomorrow I will get the main span sprayed, before aiming to get the bridge installed on the layout at the weekend.  The supports will be glued in place, but the deck will be removable until the track weathering and point ridding is complete.

604505CB-91A1-4DB0-9E23-A77D61915CA8.jpeg

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Looking very good indeed Mr Adder. I do like a nice lattice sided bridge. If I had the space I would like to model the bridge that spanned the Crook o' Lune in northwest Lancashire. There's actually two with a road overbridge between them.

25982981.jpg

Edited by MrWolf
Picture no attach!
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I’m pleased with the end result (particularly now that it is on the layout), but I did make a rather large blunder which will likely result in its eventual replacement.

 

I didn't have any dimensions of the bridge (a little silly not taking a tape measure to my site visit, or for that matter asking a friendly local to measure it).  Instead I made the cardinal sin of modelling a model and took the height from a wills varigurder.  Net result it’s 5mm too high so has ended up with one additional row of lattice and doesn’t need the guard rails which were added to the top of the prototype to get it up to height.   
 

 

 

Onto another silly mistake, a while back I purchased two Ratio water cranes to add to the platform. Not noticing that they are cranked and the prototype is straight.  
After finding some suitable Evergreen rod, this evening I modified one of them to a straight swing pipe.  (And upgraded the support roding to 0.45 brass while I was at it). I will now need to repeat the process on the other one (which is already built).   

BDC2B21C-AAED-4376-A7D5-0B93C04CAF1C.jpeg

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A little diversion, I have long had plans to modify the small scenic test piece made at the Pendon scenics course a couple of years ago into a photo backdrop for models.  (I have been using it as such using low camera angles to hide the lack of track for a while. 
 

thanks to @Rowsley17Dfor sorting me out with a couple of spare OO C&L track bases, last night I assembled the track, painted it, before gluing into position.   I used the glue, lay and ballast in one go approach. (Given the thin C&L sleepers, which worked very well.

 

it needs some weathering (which won’t happen until the track weathering on Bent is done) and a back scene (for which I have some off cuts of the photo back scene used on Brent) to finish off.  I will also need to look at some under shelf lighting to avoid the heavy shadow 

D52915FC-B9EA-429A-BED6-325C786029BE.jpeg

715C6E70-C282-4212-85A8-A5CA17A317A5.jpeg

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Having been knocked over with a cold, I don’t really fancy the cold garage so progress on the retaining walls has slowed.   I had hoped to use some rough templates to  knock up the basic wall off model.  But it wasn’t detailed enough, so I think I will finish the design in situ. 
 

instead I have been working on the other water crane, converting the kinked Ratio model into a straight arm.  This time it wasn’t a like for like build, requiring an extra half inch or so of length (it will be serving both down main and branch so needed more length). But other than allowing for a longer length of new tube, the process followed last weeks work.   It’s now half way though painting in light / dark stone 

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