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Time for another attempt at the slip, while looking for a box earlier I found a batch of thicker tortoise rod (I think from

memory this is 1.2mm, but it may be thicker still.  In the below photo the bottom is the standard Tortoise wire, the top is 0.8mm (as per Colbolts) and the lose wire into the middle is the thick stuff.   The plan is to make up a wire this week and see if it works, it is a lot stiffer so I think there’s a good chance of success...D3340A55-60B6-40B8-9C87-C26360F7B443.jpeg.ab954a540a2e26253c8c0d77e26fd3cf.jpeg

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5 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Time for another attempt at the slip, while looking for a box earlier I found a batch of thicker tortoise rod (I think from

memory this is 1.2mm, but it may be thicker still.  In the below photo the bottom is the standard Tortoise wire, the top is 0.8mm (as per Colbolts) and the lose wire into the middle is the thick stuff.   The plan is to make up a wire this week and see if it works, it is a lot stiffer so I think there’s a good chance of success...D3340A55-60B6-40B8-9C87-C26360F7B443.jpeg.ab954a540a2e26253c8c0d77e26fd3cf.jpeg

Rich, you can adjust the position of the fulcrum bar too. Moving it as far away from the throw bar as possible while still having enough throw to move the blades fully will increase the force at the tiebar (in fact, have you tried this without the thicker wire?)..

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9 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Rich, you can adjust the position of the fulcrum bar too. Moving it as far away from the throw bar as possible while still having enough throw to move the blades fully will increase the force at the tiebar (in fact, have you tried this without the thicker wire?)..

I can never remember which applies the greater force (as ever the only thing I can really remember from my Engineering degree is CAD...)  So I normally end up trying it in both positions to see which works best, once I re drill the motor that has the thin wire to accept the beefy one  I will make sure the fulcrum is returned to the other position.  

Fingers crossed this will solve the issues without having to undertake more major work,  If not I think the next job will be unsoldering the tiebar and adding droppers to the switch blades 

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Posted (edited)

 While the pressures of an exhibition deadline have pushed my focus onto my 1998 layout, yesterday I had to place an order for some replacement doors for a Class 56 rebuild I am working on.  I try to combine purchases to minimise postage as much as possible, so seeing as I was ordering from Peter's Spares it made sense to add some more parts on while I was at it.

 

So I now have a set of Hornby wheels for a 38xx along with a new set of rods.   I needed the rods as that pack also includes the crank pins (however it is going to make my life easier as the existing rods had been sleeved down to fit Gibson crankpins.)

 

So the plan is to rewheel the loco back to OO, the body is missing the boiler support bracket (which arrived damaged with half of the part missing).  I need to try and work out where the half part is before attempting to scratch build a replacement. The loco will then get a respray into wartime black.   

Tender wise, I have a suitable tender from Hornby which was intended to be used with the long term Saint project.  However given that is not a core loco, the plan has slightly changed in that now I will repaint that tender and finish off the Wills tender (shown) to eventually run with the Saint.

 

It will no doubt take a while to get the loco fully commissioned, seeing as the WD, oil burning 48xx, and pair of heavy tanks are already fully running, and the 28xx is decoder fitted ready to go.  However it will eventually add some interesting variation to the fleet (and for an outlay of £18 less whatever I get back selling the P4 wheels) it should be a good little project. 

 

7D33BEA6-E463-4504-BAB3-0FB710939DA8.jpeg

Edited by The Fatadder
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Posted (edited)

The frames have now been narrowed back to OO width and repainted in dirty black (I took the opportunity to paint the new wheels while I was at it).  This was followed by fitting the new con rods and reassembling the loco. 
 

Before resoldering the wires to the motor I thought I would give it a quick test, which highlighted very uneven running.   So the wheels were removed, and the knocking continued.  Eventually after removing the motor and stripping down the gear box I traced it to a split main gear.  Fortunately five minute on eBay and I had found a replacement, although the spend on the project has now risen to £23 it seemed a lot simpler to replace than attempting to fix it.

 

I am still missing a wheel for the pony truck, but as I’d rather use a Gibson wheel for it I don’t mind waiting.

 

The Gibson P4 wheelset (complete with Hornby bearings / drive gear and a full set of rods) are now on the classifieds.

Edited by The Fatadder
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Last night I managed some good progress on the 2884, adding the missing boiler support from plasticard and fitting the new gear.  However this loco Isn’t through with me yet, it now looks like the motor is also a dud.  When you apply power (with motor removed from the gearbox) it spins up to full power then gradually slows back to a stop (despite full power still applied).  I’m assuming there is no solution other than a new motor.  The odd thing is I don’t recall this issue being there when I was resting previously (unless I didn’t leave it on long enough to see the slowing of speed)

 

testing with another motor on the same power supply confirmed the power is ok.

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Just gave it another test between calls, either the plate which hold the motor in place was too tight or the oil I applied loosened something inside the motor.  Either way, it’s now running perfectly.

 

so now I just need I confirm if it should have windows or not then I can paint….

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Success!!!!!

 

the first half of the Kingsbridge slip now has a working point motor!  It looks a bit messy (as I ended up with a solid bar linking the two tiebars as part of my last attempt at fixing) but I fitted a 1.2mm diameter drive rod to a Tortoise tonight, installed on the slip and it switches in both directions.   I have prepped another, but it was so warm in the garage I couldn’t manage any longer.

 

the 2884 is also now painted in black, I decided in the end I just wasn’t going to get the finish I wanted filling the window without a new side.   So I just sprayed it black, the tender will follow tomorrow.  
if a photo of 3863 in 1947  appears

which shows it should still have no windows (or that it was green) the I will remove the numbers and change for another that was black with windows in late 47.

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The other end of the slip is now fitted up and working, I think I will probably park it there for now as it still needs two more motors fitting, all of the check rails and the wiring.  All jobs better suited for cooler weather!

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The tender for 3863 was sprayed black at lunch today, so it is now ready for transfers and weathering before finishing with a coat of mat varnish.   The tender will need a little more work (its missing a handrail and the loco to tender coupling).  The latter will need to be cobbled together from some brass strip (unless I can find one in the scrap box left from my Manor build.)

 

Through some more research last night I have managed to find a photo of a wartime build 2884 which had gained windows in '47, there is also a record of the loco being in Swindon works for attention in 1946 and again in 1948.  While I cant say for certain without photographic evidence, I am assuming it would have gained windows in the 46 visit but not a heavy overhaul which would have happened in 48.   So I am fairly confident that wartime black with windows is correct for October 47.

 

 

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It has been a while since I last did any work on the layout, the usual summer loss of interest hit hard (coupled with a need to work on getting Wheal Imogen ready for Lydd Rail early next month.)   Having failed to book a slot in the gym this morning I took advantage of an extra hour before work to get out in the garage before it has warmed up too much and do a little on Brent.

 

There are lots of jobs outstanding, most of which can be worked on fairly easily (the goods shed kit still needs a little development work and the need to source more plasticard for the station building are the only limiting factors.

 

In the end I decided to get on with some long overdue work on the platforms, with the down platform now fitted with the edge stones along with the slabs on the ramp at the London end.  All being well I will try and get out again at lunch and finish the job.  

 

In order to do this I need to get the branch starter signal working, this was kindly supplied by @checkrail with one half of the signal not working.  The plan is to install the Dapol base (which will control the left hand signal and the lights power), solder a linkage to the right hand signal which in turn will be linked to a Colbolt motor fitted under the baseboard.  This linkage will naturally need to be fitted inside the platform.  To that end there has always been a 2 square inch section of platform surface which had never been fitted.  So today this was cut to fit the signal and placed in position in the platform.  the plan is to hopefully keep this part semi removeable so that I can get access to the signal in the future should the need arise. 

 Of course all of this work to the signal needs to be done before I can really finish the platform (and once the linkage is fitted the signal is no longer removeable from the layout.  This will complicate the eventual fitting of the point rodding, however I see no way round it as the rodding is pretty much the last job on the plan for the layout.

24319D47-A019-4147-B976-6144513350C2.jpeg

Edited by The Fatadder
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A little more progress at lunch, with the rest of the edging applied to the platform (along with the first two lengths of the surface.  Still a long way to go (particularly a need to mark out the exact outline of the signal box and waiting room which have not yet been built to ensure the slaps are cut to fit.)

 

So attention was turned to the signal, the aim being to work out exactly what I am going to do.  I fitted the Dapol control box and then looked at the clearances.  Unfortunately it looks like I have added the extra hole in the baseboard for the second linkage on the wrong side of the signal (so the Dapol controlbox is mounted below the hole!)  However the motor mounted perpendicular to the track leaves the actuator arm neatly fitting between the  baseboard and the control box.

 

This leaves the question, how do you attach the Cobalt actuator arm to the signal.

 

I have two thoughts, the first is to solder an L shaped  brass bracket onto the existing signal actuator rod, at the other end of this arm would be a hole into which a wire (with an omega loop) which would connect between the signal and the cobalt.

 

The other option (which is slightly more destructive), is to completely remove the Dapol wire and replace with a long length of steel rod of an appropriate diameter.  This would be formed with all the bends etc to link the signal and motor, so forming the angles will be a little more involved.  I think I will probably try option 1 first and see how it gets on, though fitting the motor in position will be  the first challenge as access is very restricted (by a baseboard crossmember, the control box and a couple of point motors.) 

 

 

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Another hours work and the rest of the slabs are in place.  Some trimming may be required to fit the exact footprint of the buildings, but at least the layout is showing some progress! 
now time for the signal, with the first job fitting the motor in to one of the most inaccessible locations under the layout.

 

(which of course means I will get side tracked and do some plaster work instead 

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58875538-25DC-4146-8769-8CA0A7C9CE8E.jpeg

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