'Good' Weathering Powder Sets?

[Mick Bonwick]

Hi Mick - still experimenting with the various free suggestions on here and my own home made experiences. I've used real coal and chimney soot as well as wood ash, talcum powder, my daughters make up(!) and even cocoa powder which makes a very authentic rust/brake dust... 

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Even more interesting! Experimenting is good.

 

I'd never thought of cocoa powder and I can see what you mean about its suitability.

[cravensdmufan]

Another loco just done using mostly Tamiya powder sets.

 

I really like using the white for a base to get the slight fading over the sides. For this I use a small piece cut from a Sainsburys felt type cleaning cloth.  Goes on nice and smooth and doesn't look powdery.

 

Then I streak down with browns and greys.

 

For roofs I use Humbrol "smoke" powder. Black around exhaust port.  Looking at the photo now I need a little more there.

 

I like using Tamiya powders as they come off quite easily with a little IPA  if you apply too much, yet don't come off with careful handling. Don't bother sealing them and just top up as and when required!

[Huggy]

I'm just getting in to weathering, and the results people are showing on here are all very impressive.  I've got a selection mostly of Humbrol products, and one of the Tamiya triple sets, but the latter seems quite difficult to apply; it seems quite hard to get much on to the applicator they include.

A few  questions:

 

To apply powders, what variety of brush, or alternative methods, are best?

 

How do habitual "weatherers" clean their brushes?  Mine seem to get very clogged up when using powders.  

 

As well as on rolling stock, what is best to use on card buildings and general structures? I just had a bash at a platform face, which I first sealed with matt varnish, and results are suitably grimey, but very patchy, and somewhat over-heavy in parts. I used Humbrol powder in MattCote as one of their videos suggests. On something else I had a go at, the printed (Scalescenes) brick paper discoloured - possibly because I didn't seal it well enough first. I noticed that damp fingers have a very bad effect too!

 

All "rookie" tips gratefully received.

[cravensdmufan]

I'm just getting in to weathering, and the results people are showing on here are all very impressive.  I've got a selection mostly of Humbrol products, and one of the Tamiya triple sets, but the latter seems quite difficult to apply; it seems quite hard to get much on to the applicator they include.

A few  questions:

 

To apply powders, what variety of brush, or alternative methods, are best?

 

How do habitual "weatherers" clean their brushes?  Mine seem to get very clogged up when using powders.  

 

As well as on rolling stock, what is best to use on card buildings and general structures? I just had a bash at a platform face, which I first sealed with matt varnish, and results are suitably grimey, but very patchy, and somewhat over-heavy in parts. I used Humbrol powder in MattCote as one of their videos suggests. On something else I had a go at, the printed (Scalescenes) brick paper discoloured - possibly because I didn't seal it well enough first. I noticed that damp fingers have a very bad effect too!

 

All "rookie" tips gratefully received.

Huggy,

 

Like you, I only use Humbrol and Tamiya powders.  I have found they are very different products both in "texture" and application.

 

I use mainly Tamiya.  You only need a tiny bit; using the provided applicator the sponge end for body sides and roofs i.e large areas.  The sponge end does, however, wear out quite quickly and starts to disintegrate.  You can buy similar tips from the make-up section at Superdrug or similar store (I "borrow my wife's!).  But for large areas such as my Class 26  body above, I cut small strips of Sainsburys felt type cleaning cloth and apply with that.  Goes on very well; slightly waxy and not too "powdery" if that makes sense!

 

For bogies, fuel tanks, exhaust ports and general crevices like door frames and grills I use Tamiya worked in with the brush end of the applicator.  Then top up with Humbrol.  I also have a softish flat brush which I clean with Brush Magic

 

The beauty of the powders is that you can remove any surplus if you overdo it on plastics.  I use a tiny drop of IPA on a cotton bud for this.

 

Printed card and paper is a different matter. A light dusting with Humbrol using a soft brush is ideal.

 

In most cases I find a quick "huff" of warm breath is enough to fix powders enough to prevent them coming off if handled with care.  After all, it's easy just to top up as and when required!

 

I once tried to a spray matt varnish to seal a powdered model and was disappointed.  It darkened everything and ruined the nice texture, so I don't bother to seal anything now.

 

CDF. 

[s.e. charles]

i've heard the Bragdon colors have adhesive incorporated.

 

https://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm

 

 

no shortage of choices:

 

[cravensdmufan]

i've heard the Bragdon colors have adhesive incorporated.

 

https://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm

 

 

no shortage of choices:

 

That Bragdon product looks good.

 

Had a search around but can't find a UK supplier.

[Huggy]

Great stuff, thanks guys.  Really helpful, I'm finding some good info in this thread.

 

Can I just quote you, CDF :

 

"The beauty of the powders is that you can remove any surplus if you overdo it on plastics.  I use a tiny drop of IPA on a cotton bud for this...."

 

Will other beers do, I've only got some Hobgoblin just now?    Or am I misinterpreting   :)   

[Brentor95]

Late on the subject but very useful! Thanks everybody.

[Damo666]

Late too in seeing this thread.

 

Is there some pictorial depository out there of locos in various states of disrepair that can be referenced for weathering,? Something dedicated to weathered locos? (must be someone's fantasy).

[chuffinghell]

I have both the Humbrol and Tamyia weathering powders but unfortunately I do not have the skills to use them

[cravensdmufan]

I have both the Humbrol and Tamyia weathering powders but unfortunately I do not have the skills to use them

Hey, don't give up! Practice on some older models - get some cheap bodies from a junk box at an exhibition. Use a soft brush and just work it in. The great thing about powders is if you mess up, just wipe or wash off and start again.

[Gilbert]

I have both the Humbrol and Tamyia weathering powders but unfortunately I do not have the skills to use them

My advice would be use the Tamiya powders, get a reference photo and start with very small amounts...go for it..

[chuffinghell]

I have tried but I’ve never been happy with the results

 

Thank you for the encouragement but for now I’m happy to let TMC do the weathering leaving me to get on with the stuff I know I can do

 

I’m sure I’ll have another go at some point but for now I’ve got more than enough to be getting on with

[Brocp]

Tmc are way overpriced for the services they give imo.

 

I'd go the old mig powders. Smoke Black, Track Brown and Light Mud will give you a weathered black, dark and light rust colours. Use them more as finishing off items instead of an using them for overall weathering application. You'll see the best weatherers in any sort of modelling will also use paints and washes etc as well.

[newbryford]

I've used a some of the range (grey/black and rust) from DCC Concepts just recently.

Seem Ok to me.

https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/specialised-model-accessories/weathering-powders-and-materials/

Cheers,

Mick

[ColinK]

I have some MIG powders which are over 10 years old, they came complete with a bottle of fixative (enamel according to the bottle). I find the powders don’t adhere to anything. I had another go with them yesterday on a G scale coaling stage, again they did not adhere to the model. I gave them a coat of the fixative which was still drying when I set off for work today. I’ll probably give the models a spray of matt enamel varnish when they are finished.

 

Should they adhere without the fixative?

[Gene]

That Bragdon product looks good.

 

Had a search around but can't find a UK supplier.

Pan Pastels at Amazon...you can buy sets of colours or individual colours. They last a very very very long time.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/PanPastel-Colour-Set-Extra-Colours/dp/B002JKQUTY/ref=sr_1_19_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536000543&sr=8-19-spons&keywords=Pan+pastels&psc=1

[Huggy]

The only trouble with powders is, if you just get even a tiny bit - particularly black - escaping the work and going on the bench/cutting mat/hands/cat - it gets everywhere and appears to be impossible to shift. Yet mine are always reluctant to stick to what I'm actually trying to weather, unless I mix it with some Mattcote or similar.  Whyzatthen?

[cravensdmufan]

Today I spent a happy hour weathering my old Lima Class 73 which is 26 years old and was “mint in box” condition. (Price sticker on box £17.99).  It’s quite amazing how the use of just Humbrol and Tamiya powders has brought out the details of the old Lima mouldings.  They really were very good for their time.

 

Next jobs on the loco (which I probably should have done before starting the powders) are to fit smaller couplings, paint inside of cabs dark grey (to cover yellow plastic moulding) and fix in Lazerglaze windows which I had actually purchased from Brian at Shawplan a few years ago.  One of the may “to do” jobs which is eventually getting done!  I’m enjoying the project particularly as the loco is a good runner despite still having the old Lima mechanism - I actually converted this one to DCC with a Lenz standard decoder.  I serviced it;  Labelle lubricants have ensured perfect smoothness.

 

Whilst the 73 was certainly never one of my favourite loco classes I have this one to represent short trip Speedlink freight workings from the Southern Region.  Well that’s my excuse!

[97xx]

I've just returned to the hobby after a 40-year or so break, and made my first forays into weathering.

 

I initially tried (my wife's...) Rowney pastels, and did as others do it seems by scraping or sanding off some fine powder. They seem very good. See the Iron Mink below which pre-COVID was pristine (and without lettering) and now is a bit tattier - all with pastels and a bit of Railmatch underframe dirt airbrushed.

 

I have just redone a 97xx and thought I'd invest in a DCC Concepts weathering set. I have to say I didn't find it offered any advantage over the pastels. It doesn't seem as fine as I would have thought. Works OK, but was a little surprised as it was marketed as super fine etc.