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SCRATCH BUILT MODERN EUROPEAN STYLE WAGONS 4mm ish


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Brilliant job Marco. Who did the transfers for you?

 

Are you going for NEM Kaydees for the couplings. They aren't particularly cheap but they look the business. Looking at a 'red carded' JYA at Crawley new yard recently they look odd when they are by themselves a singular wagon as they have no buffing gear and just a knuckle coupling sticking out. NEM Kaydees would suit this well, in addition they are operationally excellent.

 

Please keep sending the photos of your progress. Very inspiring mate.

 

As it is Sunday a replacement bus service has been put in place while the PWay install a new S&C unit.

 

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I took some images online of jya tops code and Sent them to a mate who printed them onto transfer paper. They came out quite well. Would be nice to get the minimum curve script but getting an image very difficult. This completes a realistic stone train from westbury to woking..all I need is a aggreagates 59 to complete the look! Next dare I try an Iia....phew!!

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Yes using kadees, expensive but worth it. I attached them into nem pockets on the inner wagon onto the body and for the outer wagon I attached them to the bogie using the add on fishtail as supplied with the bogie from s kits. A saisfying project all round.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The latest batch build of MJAs is under way in Denmark, with the assistance of suitable liquid refreshment.....'Willemoes Porter 8.5%' .....happy days.....

 

I have noticed that occasionally and fairly randomly the sides of these box type wagons bow inwards at the top, longitudinally. This seems to occur over the period of a month after the wagons have been built. Using the same Revell liquid poly cement every time makes no difference, the same batch of Evergreen styrene strips and the same sheets of styrene. None of these things seem to add a variable that would lead for this condition, however it happens all the same. Not all wagons do it and the same amount of liquid poly is applied.

 

I'm currently experimenting with a technique that involves scoring the body sides and pre curving them prior to assembly. So far this has worked well. The scoring is then hidden by the body side ribs, but the 'pre stressing method' seems to work.....so far. When the top longitudinal rib is attached it has the effect of straightening the top out.

 

Prototype wagons usually sustain damage and wear from heavy loading that usually leads to the body sides bulging out fractionally over the years, however I haven't noticed that the body sides bulge inwards, unless from collision with unloading machinery.

 

The photos show this technique. I would be interested to know if anyone else has experienced this inwards deformation on open box wagons. I also get this problem on occasion, again over the period of a month or so following construction, with flat wagons. Particularly when two or more layers of styrene sheet are used to form the flat body. These tend to bow downwards in the middle.

 

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This distortion doesn't only arise in scratch-built examples, but in kits (and R-T-R, but to a lesser extent). One thing that can help is to have some formers of scrap timber, cut to the internal width, which you insert when doing the 'first fix' of sides and ends to the floor. After a couple of days, remove the wood and then run a final brush of solvent on the interior seams.

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Brian, Marco, thanks for the replies. It's good to get some common experiences aired here. I hadn't considered making a former for the wagon shells. It only occurs with open and flat wagons as I previously described.

 

I have had some success with the 'scoring method', I suppose it is like the prestressing of loco bodies, in a way. As can be seen from the photos the scoring and precurving of the body side is then covered by the body side ribs.......Much as I enjoy scratch building, I have to say that after a while it was fairly boring cutting the 484 body side ribs for 22 wagons.

 

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Just be careful with TF25s and wheelsizes - there are quite a few variants! Everything from about 840mm to 1000mm IIRC (which in 4mm is 11mm - 13mm).  If 12mm wheelsets are slightly too big for the Bachmann bogies then it sounds like they might have modelled one of the smaller wheelsets.

 

Cheers, Mike

I thought the TF25 wheel in the UK was 840mm new and 790mm last turn, 33" - 31" in old money.  I hadn't heard of larger wheel pans, but a quick google shows a drawing for a UIC version with a 920mm wheel (a UIC standard).  I'll ask around tomorrow...

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  • 4 weeks later...

 The yeoman transfers from fox are curiously curved.. Answers on a postcard as to why...

 

Every other rib on a yeoman PTA, and most ribs on the Lima effort are triangular - if you don't have the curve in the transfer you end up with a bent logo, although you will have to cut it into separate letters to suit your scratchbuilt one.

 

Jon

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Every other rib on a yeoman PTA, and most ribs on the Lima effort are triangular - if you don't have the curve in the transfer you end up with a bent logo, although you will have to cut it into separate letters to suit your scratchbuilt one.

 

Jon

Arrrrr well this may be the acid test in my build...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great job Marco. Really looks the part, especially as the under frame detail is visible. I still have 30 or so of Lima's best effort at this 'Modern' wagon, sentimental reasons I guess. They never really modelled the underframe and didn't even get the end ribs right. As for the dimensionally challenged bogies, probably the less said the better.

Who is it that makes the white metal bogies you've used? Any more photos?

It will look good mixed in with your JYAs, these are regulars most week day afternoons at Crawley New Yard, usually with a 59.

 

Since the Denmark trip this summer work has got in the way of modelling for me. The only thing I have been working on trying to finish is a 4 wheeled coach hacked together from a few Hornby body shells. It is supposed to be something my son can run behind his SECR C class. Scratch built underframe, not prototypical in any way. The roof will probably be 0.5mm styrene, scored and then formed over the radiused ends. Usually I then use contact adhesive to stick fine grade wet and dry on to represent a roof covering. It would be nice to get some sort of flush glazing....

 

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Nice to have you back Grizz.. I thought I was on my own for a minute.. I got the bsc bogies from george at s kits at the big exhibition in burton in the summer... He says he will do a kit of the PHA which hasnt materelised yet... I have a fondness for the Lima pta, I still think they are worth a project..

 

Just wondered if anyone has ever seen a 57 down at westbury...

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Sorry Marco my son has since read your last post and has claimed them! They were ok for their time. Somewhat prone to derail in long rakes when hauled by locos with out flywheels, as the abrupt stops seemed to lift trailing bogies. The good thing was that the 'greasy' type of plastic used for the bogies allowed me to load them up with real sand, without the metal axles wearing grooves in the bogies.

 

The only draw back then was the train was too heavy to haul with the pancake motored locos available at the time. When Bachmann and others introduced the centrally mounted motors and fly wheels, it made it much easier. A couple of Heljan 33s trundling round with 30 wagons loaded with sand.....happy days.

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He has his own layout with an 'Aggregates Company' unloading area. It should be large enough to take the total number of wagons split into two rakes. I think I'll start a wagon leasing company : )

The big thing for him at the moment is getting a suitably large enough Grab 360 machine for the unloading. Passing by Crawley New Yard each day you'd think it would be easy to take photos of the one Day Aggregates has.....but even with the appalling train service experienced in this part of the world I have yet to be on a train that has been brought to a stand opposite the yard in day light.

 

On 5 of the JUAs / PTAs I've experimented with swapping out the original Lima Y25 bogies for the Bachmann TF25s. It is a case of taking out the chassis, removing the bogies and dropping in an M4 bolt through the original hole. The hole in the TF25 exactly fits the M4 bolt, I usually use a wipe of moly grease to aid free rotation and protect the plastic chassis from wear from the thread.

 

As far as I know these wagons have never been fitted with TF25s but they look good. The only draw back is that I can't now load them with real sand as the weight causes the metal axles to excessively wear to the plastic bogie, even if I wipe Molly grease in the axle boxes.

 

The 5 wagons have no outer wagons amongst them and I have yet to decide whether to detail them. There are the white Yeoman type. Easy to weather though.

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Aha that explains it, cheers Cheesysmith I had no idea. So obviously Lima just applied the various liveries to the original BSC version of the model.

 

I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time, on the right day, when the old Burgess Hill model shop were putting out a load of second hand PTA/JUAs. £5 each for BSC, White Yeoman, Silver Yeoman and Mustard ARC. There were no other customers in the shop at the time and I bought all 30 of them. Most were boxed. As I remember the two guys that used to run the shop weren't into anything 'modern' and in any case they definitely couldn't understand why I'd want to model anything after the 11th August 1968.........

 

Lima seemed to vary the wheel sets under their models. Out of the 30 wagons there was one with large bright silver wheels. Several with black plastic, most were blackened with thin axles but there were a few with blackened wheels and much thicker axles. I managed to get replacements for the bright silver and plastic ones fairly easily.

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Wilko's have a great range of cheap rattle can paints. The purple caught my eye, although I didn't have a specific project in mind. Recently I have been increasingly keen to find something to spray with it, so this afternoon this wagon, which hadn't been assigned a livery, got the treatment. I'm quite pleased with it and it would look good with white decals to finish it off. Although sadly I don't have any at present.

 

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