Trying to flatten out cork 'roll'. SORTED with an easy method. Thanks.

[Mallard60022]

I have having no success in flattening the 3mm cork roll I am about to use. I've tried laying it out (it does not want to do this at all) and leaving it weighted down for 48 hours with zero result.

Is there some secret to achieving the flattening?

Many thanks

Phil

[Herbert Nigel]

Reverse roll it (gently) for a few hours?

[bgman]

When all else fails .....

 

[Torr Giffard LSWR 1951-71]

....have a look at the new cork strips from C&L....they arrive flat & straight. Can't say that I've had any issue with Evo Stik grabbing the weighted cork roll eiher though.

 

Dave

[BlackRat]

I never bother glueing it down now.

 

If it's for track underlay, it will be ballasted and the ballast and pva mix is effectively like concrete anyway.

 

I lay it out, and then staple one end then putting the cork gently under tension I pull it out and staple as I go along.

 

I have 1 of those fairly heavy duty staplers which is ideal

 

The entire surface of the board is,also covered in Cork tiles, again all stapled down. The beauty is if you want to change the scenery etc, it all can come up, including the tile leaving a pristine baseboard underneath.

 

And no, I've never had any problems and been using the method for 15 years at least.

[dhjgreen]

I never bother glueing it down now.

 

If it's for track underlay, it will be ballasted and the ballast and pva mix is effectively like concrete anyway.

 

I lay it out, and then staple one end then putting the cork gently under tension I pull it out and staple as I go along.

 

I have 1 of those fairly heavy duty staplers which is ideal

 

The entire surface of the board is,also covered in Cork tiles, again all stapled down. The beauty is if you want to change the scenery etc, it all can come up, including the tile leaving a pristine baseboard underneath.

 

And no, I've never had any problems and been using the method for 15 years at least.

That'll do me, just in time for a new layout to receive its cork, thank you, and to Mallard for asking the question.

[BlackRat]

Just for info.......the tiles are left open for a few hours to acclimatise.

 

I then staple one end with a staple in each corner and one in the centre then just tack them down.

 

I always pull them a little, so they don't bow up in the middle, tho a staple soon sorts that out if it happens.

[BG John]

I've just laid some Javis 1/8" cork that was rolled fairly tightly. I did gently roll it in the opposite direction, but it didn't make a lot of difference. A good layer of PVA on the baseboard, and the cork held down with sheets of chipboard, and assorted paint tins and other weighty objects found in my workshop, resulted in a nice flat surface.

[Nearholmer]

I'm possibly becoming Messrs Cantrill's unpaid salesman, but with theirs, I simply left it to "relax" for a week or two, on a flat surface. No added weight. And, it did relax, to become nice and flat. But, as I've said in another post, I suspect that what they sell is different (= better) than some sold by railway modelling suppliers - definitely denser and slightly rubbery.

 

K

[Mallard60022]

Thanks all. I've tried reverse rolling and it starts to crack. I have not left it flat for more than 48 hours and that was under weight. It will not sit on its own without weighting.

I like the staple idea. I should have just got tiles in hindsight as I really only want it for a 'ballast shoulder underlay' and I need to be able to cut it easily. I have some C & L and it's quite expensive but looks quite good, however I need a 12' run about 9" wide for a run through a station; that would be a lot of C & L on its own. I could use the chamfered C& L with the other stuff sitting centrally though and that would be better I think.

I'll have a play and see what happens. I suspect there may be an unopened roll of cork going on Buy and Sell.

Phil

[Mallard60022]

I'm possibly becoming Messrs Cantrill's unpaid salesman, but with theirs, I simply left it to "relax" for a week or two, on a flat surface. No added weight. And, it did relax, to become nice and flat. But, as I've said in another post, I suspect that what they sell is different (= better) than some sold by railway modelling suppliers - definitely denser and slightly rubbery.

 

K

I do not want to name the supplier but the rolls I have are what might be termed coarse/open cork that is very springy. I have had slightly thinner cork in the past that is almost like thick paper  and the same consistency as those 70s bathroom flooring tiles, that is a very fine and 'tight' consistency. That was dead easy to open out and lay. I should have not gone mail order and used an Exhibition or shop to purchase.

many thanks 

Phil

[gwrrob]

You might have more luck using the 12 inch square cork tiles sold in Wickes.

[Mallard60022]

You might have more luck using the 12 inch square cork tiles sold in Wickes.

I think that could be the answer Rob.

The Cantrill 1/8" sheets look good though.

I might try some of that as well.

Phil

[gwrrob]

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Sealed-Cork-Flooring-Tile-305x305mm-Pack-9/p/620950

 

They work out at a pound each and I glue them down sealed side down.

[Mick Bonwick]

Borrow the steam iron, open the roll out to its fullest extent and then run the iron on full steam slightly above the cork surface.

[87023Velocity]

Agree with Rob, been using the Wickes cork tiles on a few layouts and never had any issues laying etc.

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[Kenton]

 

Borrow the steam iron, open the roll out to its fullest extent and then run the iron on full steam slightly above the cork surface.

 

That gets my vote as well. Even dampen the cork first. But beware it will curl up at the edges if not kept pressed flat while it dries.

[Mallard60022]

   

That gets my vote as well. Even dampen the cork first. But beware it will curl up at the edges if not kept pressed flat while it dries.

I could use the damp tea towel as well as the steam setting method and experiment on a piece.

Many thanks, I wondered if wetting (garden/hand spray)  them might be an option.

Phil

[bgman]

I've scoured the country for some replacements and managed to get Ms.Bark to strip a bit more for ya mate ........

 

[Mallard60022]

I've scoured the country for some replacements and managed to get Ms.Bark to strip a bit more for ya mate ........

 

image.jpeg

Now I need the damp tea towel.........................

Phil

[bike2steam]

I use 100ft rolls from;-

http://www.charlescantrill.com/shop/model-railway/

And lay it with the help of a decorators edging roller, the air is pushed out from the join, helped by cause suction between cork, and baseboard while the pva dries, and sets ( I usually give it 24 hours). I make sure it stays flat by placing house bricks on top. It may be overdoing it - but it works, everything stays perfectly flat.

[Mallard60022]

I use 100ft rolls from;-

http://www.charlescantrill.com/shop/model-railway/

And lay it with the help of a decorators edging roller, the air is pushed out from the join, helped by cause suction between cork, and baseboard while the pva dries, and sets ( I usually give it 24 hours). I make sure it stays flat by placing house bricks on top. It may be overdoing it - but it works, everything stays perfectly flat.

Yes, I'm thinking of the 1/8th stuff as the quality looks really 'fine grain', if that's the word. I won't need 100' roll though!!

Thanks

Phil

[bike2steam]

I've used CC cork for a few years now, I find it very good stuff, although it's more of a 'composite' than pure cork, and doesn't crumble like many others. You could always buy the 100 ft roll, and pass what's left, onto someone else :-)

[Mallard60022]

I've used CC cork for a few years now, I find it very good stuff, although it's more of a 'composite' than pure cork, and doesn't crumble like many others. You could always buy the 100 ft roll, and pass what's left, onto someone else :-)

Thanks Paul. The large rolls are a bit thin for my needs so I think I'll stick (sorry) with the 1/8th 3' items. I would need just two of those at most for this project.

Phil

[Mallard60022]

I could use the damp tea towel as well as the steam setting method and experiment on a piece.

Many thanks, I wondered if wetting (garden/hand spray)  them might be an option.

Phil

Just to confirm that the unopened sheets (from Cheltenham Models) are a good and fine grain sheet (unlike the one I was already using and I don't know where that came from) and the damp tea towel + just cotton setting on the iron, worked a treat. I now have a lovely flexible 3' X 2' sheet ready for cutting for track base.

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Phil